RIMS Tube with PID Controller for IDIOTS

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WildGingerBrewing

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This thread will be exactly what is says, RIMS tube and PID controller FOR IDIOTS. I am no expert when it comes to electricity. I'm not even a novice. I am an idiot. Electricity is dangerous and handle at your own risk. I will have help (more on that below).

For some time now, I have wanted to upgrade my HERMS coil and propane, to an electric element and a RIMS tube. Over the course of the last few weeks, I have read numerous articles and watched countless videos, on how to assemble a PID controller and RIMS tube. With the help of a friend (who recently built one and understands this stuff), I assembled a list of parts and started ordering stuff. As my parts started coming in, I realized I had no idea what to do with any of it. No matter how many articles I read or videos I watched, I could not wrap my head around what was going on. So I decided that I would start a "for dummies" thread. Over the next few days (I hope), I will be documenting, step-by-step, how I built my controller, with pictures and possibly some video.

Let's start with my current set-up. I have a 3 vessel system, 2 keggles (MLT & BK) (left and middle) and an 8 gal aluminum pot for an HLT (right). My system has 2 pumps, one for recirculating the mash through the HERMS coil (submerged in the HLT) and one that I use mostly for chilling. For chilling, I fill the HLT with water and pump it through an immersion chiller in my BK. As the water heats up, I add ice. I can usually chill from boiling to 68F in about 30 minutes using 3 bags of ice. My intent is to replace the HERMS coil and propane burner with a RIMS tube and heating element. I will still use the HLT as my chill water. Here is a picture of my current system. 1st pic

Here is the parts list of what I ordered for the upgrade:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087O6S2A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FHVBKC4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/rims18_cam.htm Make sure you order the connections that fit your system. If you use, QD's you need to specify which ones, and make sure that you have enough of each. I sat down and wrote out the path of the wort from the MLT and back to ensure that I ordered enough of the parts I needed.Last pic
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500.htm
You will need a ball valve on the out side of your pump to control the flow of wort. I ordered another one from Brew Hardware as well. See the "Path" list below for my exact configuration, keeping in mind that I used some of the parts I already had so I didn't have to order new everything. Also keep in mind that you will need some misc items like wire, connectors, wire nuts, etc...I picked this stuff up at Home Depot.

So the first thing I did was start playing with the RIMS tube. Kudos again to BobbyM @ Brew Hardware. I'm never disappointed in anything I buy from them. Never having seen a RIMS tube before I wasn't sure how to install the temp probe or heating element. After much frustration (and then finding a video of BobbyM showing how) I figured out which parts come apart. 2nd and 3rd pic show how/where the element end comes apart.

And here is the final assembled tube. 4th pic

I hope you're having fun with this. More to come soon...

Edit: I'm not sure how to type above or below a pic so until I figure it out, listing them by number will have to work. Maybe I'll do the rest with individual pics and posts.

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Tube_element End.jpg


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Probe Assembles.jpg


Element Assembled.jpg


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So now that I have the RIMS tube assembled, what the hell am I supposed to do with all these electronic parts?!?!?! I found a 13" x 13" x 6" junction box at Home Depot and decided to make my controller box with it. It is too big for what I am doing now, but I won't have to change it when I upgrade again. It's also made of PVC so it is easy to cut and drill. So last night I decided it was time to start mounting pieces. I removed the lid and, after some trial and error, laid out my cuts. I drilled holes in each corner so that I could use the jigsaw to cut the holes (pic #1).The cuts aren't pretty, but they are covered so who cares? I then installed the outlets (pic #2). I installed the face plates to see how it looked (pic #3). After cutting out the switches, I laid out the pattern to cut PID controller (pic #4 & #5). Once I cut the hole, I mounted the PID (pic #6). That's as far as I have gotten. My buddy is coming over Saturday and we are going to wire everything up. More to come soon...

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Oops, I forgot the last thing I did. I mounted the SSR and heatsink, also. This is pretty simple, but I will tell you that mounting screws are not included for either of these items. I cut a piece of plywood to fit inside my box so that I could mount the pieces directly to it without drilling into the bottom of the box. I decided on the location and mounted the heatsink first (it's the black part on bottom) then I screwed the SSR to it through the holes provided. It was very easy. I am also planning to install a fan or two just to help with the heat build-up but that comes this weekend.

SSR-Heatsink.jpg
 
You'll need to have an air inlet and an outlet for the box, rather than just recirculating air inside the box. The plastic box won't dissipate heat very well. At least one of the fans should be mounted either on the inlet or the outlet to make sure you have good air turnover in the box. Best would be a fan on the inlet with the heatsink close to the inlet fan, and then the other fan on the outlet.

Brew on :mug:
 
Confirmed that my buddy is coming over tomorrow to finish this thing! Good thing too, since i robbed parts from the existing system for the upgrade. Which means i cant brew again until this done. Stay tuned for documentation on wiring.
 
Finally found some time to try to finish this up. Again, like I said, documenting it was harder than I thought it would have been. I tried to take pics at each step showing what we did and typically there are 2 pics for every step, so that you can see where each wire leads. So here we go...

I waited to add the main power wire to last so that would be one less thing in the box to get in the way. Towards the end, the space got a little tight.

First thing I did, was add a bus and jump my blacks and white. This will be where everything comes in and goes out in one way or the other (pic 1) then I tied the black to the main power (pic 2). A quick note, since I using a switch within the plug itself to give power to the pump and heating element, this little tab had to be removed. Just bend it back and forth until it snaps off (pic 3) and then needs to be jumped to itself (the red wire in pic 2). This will happen everywhere you are using this same kind of connection.

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This where the documentation part got hard. From here it is just a matter of wiring the thing together. So the next pics will just be one connection to the other. Hopefully you will be able to follow the pathway. Green is ground. I used the red just to jump things. The pics are in order of the way I connected everything...

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The last pic in the previous post shows a green wire. I ran our of black. I did, at some point, add black electrical tape to the wire so I would remember why I used green. And while I'm on this subject. You will need a min of 8' of black and white wire to do it like this. You can get away with 2' of red and green, tops.

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I need to get some grilles to cover the fan holes, but other than, it's done. And it works. I spent several hours later this night heating water and playing with it. It works great.

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HUGE Thank you to @mpmccann for all the help. He had done this recently and brought his controller over so I could wire it exactly like his, and for the most part it is and was a big help in explaining some of this stuff. Another buddy came over to (he's an electrical engineer) and he helped make sure that I'm not going to burn the house down.

I plan to brew with it for the first time next weekend. I'll post back after the first brew and report on how it worked.

I hope this helps someone. Feel free to asks any questions and make any comments. I figure if one person can understand what I did here enough that it helps them, then this was worth it.

Thanks for reading (looking at pics)!
 
What a day! Couldnt have been any better. I did find a 3 deg differential in the PID and the MLT thermo. So even tho i set it for 153 F, the MLy held at 150F. I can compensate for that easily and i think there is a setting on the PID that i can set to account for that.
 
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