RIMS Tube Size

[PorterBoy]

I see alot of people using 2" and both 1.5" pipe for their Rims tubes. Anyone have any info on which one works best or does it matter? Also i see peple using anywhere from a 6" to 12" nipple lenght. If its to small would the temp probe pickup the heat from the element if its to close an give a false reading? Thanks in advance

 

[stlbeer]

The length of the pipe nipple you use depends on the element you choose. Ideally the temp probe is located at the out port on the RIMS tube and there are at least a couple of inches for the wort to mix around after flowing over the element.

I use 1.5" pipe and I have to slightly bend the element to make it fit without touching. I'm using a 5500w/220v LWD element from Lowes. It's made of stainless steel (Incoloy) and I run it 110V which yields 1375 watts. I use an 8" pipe nipple with this element.

Check out the RIMS for Dummies thread.

 

[tjpfeister]

I run the same setup as stlbeer. The 8' nipple going into the long end of a T winds up covering the entire length of most of your "box store" elements. Put a T on the other end and your sensor will be just far enough away from your element so as not to pickup every temp fluctuation. 2" versus 1.5" pipe has trade offs. The 2" pipe will hold more fluid and act as a buffer for temperature readings and temperature spikes in the event that flow (god forbid) stops or slows drastically. The downside of 2" pipe? more "dead space" to account for during the mash process and, of course, price. The 1.5" pipe is the smallest pipe you will fit a doubled-over element inside of and reduces dead space as best as possible, but you lose some of that buffering ability. That being said, I use a 4" temp probe that is 5/16" in diameter. The thermal mass of the sensor alone helps buffer temp readings, and with several nearly stuck mashes, I have found that even the slightest flow through the tube is enough to keep from scorching wort when using a super-duper-ultra-low watt density element like stlbeer mentioned.

 

[stlbeer]

I run the same setup as stlbeer. The 8' nipple going into the long end of a T winds up covering the entire length of most of your "box store" elements. Put a T on the other end and your sensor will be just far enough away from your element so as not to pickup every temp fluctuation. 2" versus 1.5" pipe has trade offs. The 2" pipe will hold more fluid and act as a buffer for temperature readings and temperature spikes in the event that flow (god forbid) stops or slows drastically. The downside of 2" pipe? more "dead space" to account for during the mash process and, of course, price. The 1.5" pipe is the smallest pipe you will fit a doubled-over element inside of and reduces dead space as best as possible, but you lose some of that buffering ability. That being said, I use a 4" temp probe that is 5/16" in diameter. The thermal mass of the sensor alone helps buffer temp readings, and with several nearly stuck mashes, I have found that even the slightest flow through the tube is enough to keep from scorching wort when using a super-duper-ultra-low watt density element like stlbeer mentioned.

Seconded!

 

[thargrav]

Actually a 1.5" pipe will work and I am slowly piecing together what I need for my own RIMS tube.

Here are pictures of my 1.5" RIMS tube project partly assembled and disassembled with the element I sell on-line installed.