I am considering buying the rims system. I can't find any demonstration classes with this system or anyone personally who owns it. I was wondering is it worth it and difficult is to use. Also is it has consistent as the manufacturer claims
Rims system
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What RIMS system are you referring to? RIMS is just a generic term for any directly heated, automated system for heating and controlling the temperature of a mash.
Do you have a specific sell in mind? Many people build their own. They aren't terribly complicated, but like anything else, you do have to understand some of the problems that can occur in it's use.
For example if you shut off a pump and continue to allow the heater to run you risk burning the wort. Also there is likely to be some additional deadspace that needs to be accounted for in your calculations. Plus the need to proper grounding for an electric RIMS, and GFI protection.
It would be best if you could tell us specifically which RIMS system you are thinking of.
I am thinking about buying the Blichmann BrewEasy All-Grain electric system which I understand is more accurate for mashing and I already have 220 in the basement. I also have been told that if I install a natural gas line specifically for my boil I could do the 60 to 90 minute boil in the basement. I would be interested in any opinions on my ideas and also opinions on the system I am looking at.
Owly055
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Be careful! A large burner can produce quite a bit of CO if it's not burning properly....... red or orange, indicate rich flame, which equals CO..... Yellow is pretty neutral, and blue is lean which is pretty darn safe. A lean flame will make your eyes sting in an enclosed area...... but that's harmless. A rich flame will produce CO (carbon monoxide), and gives no warning at all. The symptoms sneak up on you. If you are doing a boil in an enclosed area and your eyes start to sting...... that's a pretty good indication that you do NOT have a CO problem.
The wisest approach is to use electric for the boil if doing a long indoor boil. If you need to use gas, there are several things you can do to make it safer.
1: Install a vent hood and use it..... You will want it for vapor anyway
2: Put an insulated shroud around your boil kettle to contain the heat and allow a lower
flame
3: Pay close attention to flame color
If you have a carbon monoxide detector it will go crazy..... mine does.... They measure CO at very low concentrations and are pretty intolerant of this sort of thing.
My neighbor and I both do indoor boils on propane, and both do 30 minute boils, both doing about 4 gallons. He brews in the basement, I brew in the kitchen. I won't boil longer than 30 min without turning a fan on.
I have direct personal experience with being CO poisoned....... believe me it really does sneak up on you. Both times it happened to me, I had no idea I was being poisoned until I had it pretty badly. I realized that something was wrong and got out of the building where it happened. I didn't seek treatment either time, as I knew there was no treatment except oxygen if it's really bad. It takes several days to a week for a healthy person to fully recover. In both cases another 15 minutes to half an hour and it would have been a real life threatening crisis. Neither case involved brewing of course. The time from when you first notice symptoms until it is critical is not very long at all. In most cases your brain is addled enough that you don't notice the symptoms.
H.W.
If you are able to brew electric, that's the way you should go. The Blichmann product is not the only RIMS system commercially available. Other variations of the RIMS concept include Recirculating Brew in a Bag and Brew in a Basket system. Check out www.brew-boss.com for an example. You don't have to spend $3000 for mash stability.
I use an electric rims, the only thing to watch out for is never turn the pump off before the rims element cools down, and trust me its easy to forget, especially if you get a stuck mash, your focusing on clearing the bottom and forget to turn the element off, Ive burned a couple of elements in my lifetime since switching to rims
In the basement, electric is safer, but you do have to be aware of the steam that can cause mold to grow. A vent hood is a must no matter what.
You may be able to build or find a device that will keep the pump running for X number of seconds after power to the element has been turned off. This will prevent the element from scorching the wort and overheating the element. They are supposed to be submerged in liquid and there should be enough liquid to disperse the heat. Generally that's not a problem in the average water heater, but in a RIMS there the element is usually in an enclosed space (pipe).
You may be able to build or find a device that will keep the pump running for X number of seconds after power to the element has been turned off. This will prevent the element from scorching the wort and overheating the element. They are supposed to be submerged in liquid and there should be enough liquid to disperse the heat. Generally that's not a problem in the average water heater, but in a RIMS there the element is usually in an enclosed space (pipe).
I have the Brew Easy in 5 gal gas version and love it. As you can see from the picture, I have it next to a large powered vent, so CO and moisture are not a problem. If you are not the handy type, and are looking for a turnkey, unpack it and brew system, then I would recommend this system.
Did u buy there thermistor or wort chiller. I use a large copper wort chiller with water I pump out of a ice chiller which works ok
Yes, I bought the Thermonator for Blichman.
It cools my wort down from 190 to 70 instantly.
I have no opinion on gas v 220, I have only ever used gas.
Gibberoni
Well-Known Member
Electric is better in some respects, gas is better in others. That comes down to a lot of personal opinion and brewing situation.
The fact is though: Electric elements are 100% efficient. All of the heat they produce goes straight into the liquid.
Gas is what, 50-60% efficient? I dont recall the exact number, but it is low. Much of the heat is lost into the air or in heating the metal in the kettle.
I have brewed with gas for years without a problem, but I am slowly making the transition to electric. I am currently working on a 120v electric RIMS system, so that it can be used with my current outlets.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
I believe gas is actually lower than 50%. I have used both gas and now electric and I see only advantages with electric besides the portability of taking your equipment to a friends... Not something I'd want to do with me setup anyway..
I do agree you have to decide on what kind of money you want to spend... There is a point of diminishing returns since the uber expensive systems dont necessarily make better beer but they might look more pleasing and be more compact. Theres also the fact that if you dump all your money into an expensive system now your gonna regret it if you decide you want to change something later like go bigger or all electric once you learn more about it... The choices and pricing are all over the place for complete "systems"
The most inexpensive complete rims system Ive seen with a controller was here,
http://jaggerbushbrewing.com/RIMS-TUBE-WCONTROLLER-1-12-TRI-CLAMP_p_49.html
The most expensive pretty much anything associated with home brewing equipment is easier to point out since its all has the same name brand on it.
But if that is important to you theres nothing wrong with it either.
I've calculated two different gas burners systems and they were 27% and 33% efficient. Yes, you read that right.
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