REX-C700 PID for boil?

[conpewter]

So I'm looking through this build (which is pretty darn cool)
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Brewery-Control-Panel-on-the-Cheap/


And see this PID... which if it can be used in some sort of manual mode... would be great for my new build.
http://www.dx.com/p/digital-temperature-controller-66334

Anyone have any experience with setting up a C700 PID?

 

[augiedoggy]

So I'm looking through this build (which is pretty darn cool)
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Brewery-Control-Panel-on-the-Cheap/


And see this PID... which if it can be used in some sort of manual mode... would be great for my new build.
http://www.dx.com/p/digital-temperature-controller-66334

Anyone have any experience with setting up a C700 PID?

the rex likely does not have manual mode or Fahrenheit display either... (I have the c100 kicking around from learning this the hard way)
However these are what I went with and they are the same price.... and they DO have manual mode...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231206228037?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

two things about the first build you mentioned :
A: its made of wood which isnt really ideal for many reasons especially if your brew room gets steamy or humid.

B: It only has a three prong cord which limits it to 220v devices only so no powering 120v powersupplies or pumps from the panel. plus the dryer cord suck! I have a few of them from before I changed my mind and bought the flexible stuff.

You can build a very nice control panel for 100-200 bucks...
I'm rebuilding mine now because I was so impatient to get it together and on such a budget that the messy unorganized layout and design finally got to me plus I'm adding a third dedicated element output for my rims.

EDIT** after reading the article I see the rex c700 does not have manual mode and even has to be modified to drive an ssr.... definatly not a good choice compared to others like the one I linked.. be sure to pick up RTD style temp probes as they are best and still cheap.

 

[conpewter]

Awesome, thank you for the link! I have been looking at those TD4's as well and think I'll go that way, especially since it is the same price.

I have a nice auber PID in my current setup but when looking to add 2 more PIDs I didn't want to spend 80 bucks, 40 is more palatable.

I agree on the wood housing (I found an aluminum NEMA housing on ebay for 30 shipped that will work) but I think it was neat he was able to modify the PID to drive an SSR, but glad I won't have to.

 

[Brumateur]

Yes, C700 doesn't have a manual mode. So you can't use it to control a BK.

 

[mattd2]

Awesome, thank you for the link! I have been looking at those TD4's as well and think I'll go that way, especially since it is the same price.

I have a nice auber PID in my current setup but when looking to add 2 more PIDs I didn't want to spend 80 bucks, 40 is more palatable.

I agree on the wood housing (I found an aluminum NEMA housing on ebay for 30 shipped that will work) but I think it was neat he was able to modify the PID to drive an SSR, but glad I won't have to.

I agree that an ebay deal is a much better for the enclosure. I find it funny that one of the instructable's concerns was to not reduce safety, but he goes for a wooden crate with no sides which them most likely way it will be picked up is by sticking your hand inside to grab one of the side pieces to hold onto.
And while it is neat to DIY/hack the REX to SSR output (they do do a SSR output model from factory but making sure the ebay seller sends you one seems to be the issue) the cost / time does not stack up against the MyPin (and you are still stuck with all the other limitations of the REX)

 

[augiedoggy]

I agree that an ebay deal is a much better for the enclosure. I find it funny that one of the instructable's concerns was to not reduce safety, but he goes for a wooden crate with no sides which them most likely way it will be picked up is by sticking your hand inside to grab one of the side pieces to hold onto.
And while it is neat to DIY/hack the REX to SSR output (they do do a SSR output model from factory but making sure the ebay seller sends you one seems to be the issue) the cost / time does not stack up against the MyPin (and you are still stuck with all the other limitations of the REX)

the crate did have another wooden enclosure that went over it but you had to read the whole article to see the pics and even then it was easy to miss....

 

[mattd2]

the crate did have another wooden enclosure that went over it but you had to read the whole article to see the pics and even then it was easy to miss....

Hahaha, yes I did miss that step. Just reread it now and realised that it uses laser cut 1/8" plywood. What wold the price be to get a few laser cut panels done? To me this doesn't seem to be the cheapest route

 

[kevreh]

two things about the first build you mentioned :
A: its made of wood which isnt really ideal for many reasons especially if your brew room gets steamy or humid.

Don't fear wood! I made my control box and stand out of wood. Keep in mind wood has a high ignition point, like 450°+. If your panel gets anywhere near this hot you have other issues. I have a fan built into my wood control panel, and never feel warm air coming out of the box.

Wood, for me, is a lot easier and cheaper to work with than metal. A couple coats of poly addresses moisture problems, which shouldn't really be an issue with proper venting. I agree that the open box isn't good, I would at least use some kind of screen or mesh to keep things out.

B: It only has a three prong cord which limits it to 220v devices only so no powering 120v powersupplies or pumps from the panel. plus the dryer cord suck! I have a few of them from before I changed my mind and bought the flexible stuff.

I didn't read every word of his Instrucable, but it is weird that the photo on step 1 is of a 4 wire receptacle, but the part list indicates 3 wire.

Regarding that PID, I would be wary of using anything that cheap. But who knows, maybe it will be fine.

Manual mode probably isn't as important since the PID is for a HLT. And I have to agree with him on using a manual control for the BK.....PIDs are just way to much overkill and if you don't get the right one changing the power output value can be a big PIA. Been there done that.

 

[conpewter]

Thank you for all the help. I'm going to go with one of the mypin PIDs. I'll probably stick with metal enclosure though since I have it already. (Side note, anyone have opinion on painting kegs black instead of polishing them if they are a bit dented?)

So what do you all think of this layout? There are a few stand-ins for parts I don't have yet...

(I think the only confusing thing to people would be one PID showing mash temp but controlling the boil... will always be in manual mode... and will be my system so eh... I'll know what it means by the labels)

 

[kevreh]

I would orient all the on/off switchs the same way, versus some left/right and the main up/down. Just a usability thing.

 

[conpewter]

I would orient all the on/off switchs the same way, versus some left/right and the main up/down. Just a usability thing.

Thank you, I'll look in to that. I pretty much have to be horizontal with the On/Off/On switch to switch between heating elements so I may turn the main power one. But that switch is hopefully going to be replaced with the 110v version of this (If I can ever find one!)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-12V-20A...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ce292e724&vxp=mtr

 

[augiedoggy]

I'm actually rewiring mine now.... What a mess.... I keep adding stuff and now wish I had found a bigger enclosure... using the $36 plastic ones that home depot and lowes carry. I did have to make a new faceplate out of a hardboard type material.
My advice is if you can leave room for upgrades... after brewing and using it a bit you may find something more useful.
I just added a third pump and a third heat output for my rims.

 

[conpewter]

Good idea. I just eliminated the main power, the emergency shutoff will be doing the same thing so I'm just going to have that as the main power. It will get me used to turning off the system that way and I think will be more natural in an emergency to use the same big red button to shut it down. I'm going with slightly smaller indicator lights as well.

I'm waiting to hear back from the ebay folks I bought this enclosure from since they claimed it was stainless and it is aluminum. I don't want to start cutting it till I hear from them.

 

[Becca58]

I have an odd problem with my REX C100: it reads backwards. When the thermocouple is at room temperature, it reads 24 C, which is 75 F. But, when I take the thermocouple in my hand to warm it, the temperature displayed goes down, not up.

I've been playing with the settings using the manual(s) I've found, and nothing seems to correct that. I can't seem to get into the secondary menu, either.

Oh, and reversing the leads for the thermocouple makes the C100 read "oooo" - overload.

Any ideas? Please?

 

[augiedoggy]

I have an odd problem with my REX C100: it reads backwards. When the thermocouple is at room temperature, it reads 24 C, which is 75 F. But, when I take the thermocouple in my hand to warm it, the temperature displayed goes down, not up.

I've been playing with the settings using the manual(s) I've found, and nothing seems to correct that. I can't seem to get into the secondary menu, either.

Oh, and reversing the leads for the thermocouple makes the C100 read "oooo" - overload.

Any ideas? Please?

I got nothing... my experience with TC is when they are wired backwards they do that...

 

[Becca58]

I got nothing... my experience with TC is when they are wired backwards they do that...

Hmmm. I hate it when puzzles are overly and unneccesarily complicated.

 

[mattd2]

I got nothing... my experience with TC is when they are wired backwards they do that...

Due to the mechanics of how a TC work I would not expect it to display room temp at room temp if wire backwards as the unit would be sensing a negative voltage. But I have never tried

Ahhh... Never mind forgot about the temp compo for the cold junction which would make it read around room temp at room temperature