Replacement Yeast Help!

[schmaltzy]

I am repitching some yeast in my Dunkelweizen because I transferred it into my secondary too early (it is about 3/4 fermented but I still have to get my SG down a little). It has been in the secondary for 6 days and the SG hasn't moved at all so I was advised to try and repitch some yeast. It is a Brewers Best extract kit and it came with a "Munich" yeast. I stopped by a the only local store in my town to pick up some yeast and all they carry is some Fermentis yeast

[URL="http://http://www.fermentis.com/fo/60-Beer/60-11_product_rangeHB.asp[/URL]

I picked up one of each of the 3 varieties they carry just in case and I thought I would get on here and ask which would/could work to finish out my beer since none were the same that came with the kit. Here are the 3 I got:

Safale US-05
Safbrew T-58
Safbrew S-33

I sure none of these will be exactly like the Munich yeast, but could someone take a look at these 3 strains (through the fermentis website) and let me know what they think would be a good replacement so I can finish out my brew?

 

[schmaltzy]

FYI....this is the yeast that came with the kit....

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/danstar-munich-german-wheat-beer-yeast.html

 

[schmaltzy]

Deleted

 

[BeernuT100]

What numbers do you have now and what are you shooting for? What yeast did you use? I'd also ask why you moved it but the first 2 will do for now.

-bn

 

[schmaltzy]

I started with a 1.053 SG and the instructions said to move it to a secondary after 5-7 days to let it finish fermenting. I moved it a little after the 5 day mark and my SG reading at that time was 1.025 which is at least 0.010 off from what it should finish at. After 6 days in the secondary I didn't seen any activity so I took another SG reading and was still at 1.025. So i wrote to BB and asked if I should repitch some more yeast. They said to give it a couple more days and if it still hasn't change then I could repitch. A couple days and no change. So that's my story!

I used the Munich yeast that came with the kit (the second link).

You ask why I moved it. I did it for two reasons.....1) I am an impatient noob....but I have learned my lesson from this problem and this forum! 2) The instructions said 5-7 days and I wouldn't have been home the 6th and 7th day so I did it on the 5th, thinking that would be fine and it would just finish out in the secondary.

Anymore questions, let me know. This is only my 3rd overall batch, so like I said, I am still a noob! I'm still learning.....but learning fast and RIGHT from this forum!

 

[Old_E]

What is the temperature? Is it in a really cold place?

 

[BeernuT100]

Board is being dumb right now.

Yes temperature is a good question, how about have you checked your hydrometer in water to see if it says 1.00 @ 60F ?

Have you tasted the beer? How does it present itself as far as sweetness?

The munich yeast has already produced a flavor profile. So repitching another yeast shouldn't add any `yeast flavor'. But you may need to crash cool once you see it hit the intended FG as I believe those will move it further than .010. Maybe not the S-33 but S05 has a good chance to bring it down to 1.009.

-bn

 

[schmaltzy]

My temp is typically between 67 and 70 degrees. I understand this can affect the yeast, but not to the extent of zero movement in 6 days.

It still has a pretty sweet taste to it.

I figured what is the harm in re-pitching some yeast? With the sweet taste it seems like the is still some formentable wort.....?????

 

[BeernuT100]

I don't see any harm in it. But if you think it's going to finish to low you can always crash cool the beer to drop the yeast activity.

-bn

 

[schmaltzy]

I don't see any harm in it. But if you think it's going to finish to low you can always crash cool the beer to drop the yeast activity.

-bn

Like I said in the previous post....I am still a noob at brewing.....so could you explain what/when/how to cold crash? The first time I heard about it was on this forum. I think I have somewhat of an idea, but I'm not real familiar with the concept.

 

[Old_E]

Like I said in the previous post....I am still a noob at brewing.....so could you explain what/when/how to cold crash? The first time I heard about it was on this forum. I think I have somewhat of an idea, but I'm not real familiar with the concept.

From Wiki:
Crash cooling is when the temperature of a fermented beverage is dropped to a very low, but not freezing, temperature in order for yeast to go dormant and fall out of suspension. Brewers use different temperatures and different time frames to cold filter their beers, but it is usually just above freezing for about a week.

 

[schmaltzy]

From Wiki:
Crash cooling is when the temperature of a fermented beverage is dropped to a very low, but not freezing, temperature in order for yeast to go dormant and fall out of suspension. Brewers use different temperatures and different time frames to cold filter their beers, but it is usually just above freezing for about a week.

Great! Do you realize that if you keep answering my questions....I'm gonna keep asking them???

To cold crash then, would I transfer it to the secondary and the cold crash or transfer it and let it sit for a week, then cold crash?

I'm guessing this will still leave some yeast for the carbonation process?

 

[Old_E]

Me? I would slap it right in the fridge (or whatever). Again, I am impatient. But you could do it either way.... up to you. If you are not dry hopping or adding some other "flavoring" i would just leave it in the primary for that extra week.
Should be plenty of yeast to carb your bottles.

This is not an absolutely necessary step. Aesthetics, mainly.

 

[Yooper]

Great! Do you realize that if you keep answering my questions....I'm gonna keep asking them???

To cold crash then, would I transfer it to the secondary and the cold crash or transfer it and let it sit for a week, then cold crash?

I'm guessing this will still leave some yeast for the carbonation process?

Yes.
Cold crashing is generally used to help clarify the beer, not to stop fermentation. I just wanted to make that clear. If you use it to stop fermentation, once you bottle the beer and let it warm up again fermentation will restart and the bottles will explode.

But for clarity, putting the fermenter in the fridge will encourage suspended particles that can cause hazy beer to drop out and give you a clearer beer.

 

[schmaltzy]

Yes.
Cold crashing is generally used to help clarify the beer, not to stop fermentation. I just wanted to make that clear. If you use it to stop fermentation, once you bottle the beer and let it warm up again fermentation will restart and the bottles will explode.

But for clarity, putting the fermenter in the fridge will encourage suspended particles that can cause hazy beer to drop out and give you a clearer beer.

How would you get it to stop fermentation? Colder temps?

Will cold crashing (slowing fermentation), then bottling cause over carbonation at all? Or just stopping it then bottling?

 

[Old_E]

You don't. The fermentation stops when there is no more sugar to ferment, the alcohol level gets too high, you stop it chemically or through pasteurization. I may have missed something but you get the idea. Cold just makes the yeast go dormant and fall to the bottom.