Repair incomplete weld/pinhole

[tripeland]

A few months ago I ordered a couple stainless 3” TC lids with posts from an undisclosed online store. I received them a while back but only just got around to installing them and noticed one has an incomplete weld around the relief valve area which cannot hold pressure. The lid will be used in an oxygen free dry hopper assembly, so will not be in contact with wort/beer but will need to hold positive and negative pressure. What is the best option here? Solder, or a sealant of some kind?
And yes I should have inspected them when I received them knowing they were likely to have quality issues..

 

[PberBob]

Brazing with NSF-rated silver solder. Harris makes some. You’ll need an acetylene torch.

 

[RufusBrewer]

If you do not have the tools and where with all to do otherwise, get some RTV (food grade recommended) and work it into the holes. Make sure to leave some excess around the inside hole to act as a plug.

 

[DuncB]

@RufusBrewer TLA ?

 

[RufusBrewer]

@RufusBrewer TLA ?

Not sure what you are asking? What is TLA?

 

[DuncB]

@RufusBrewer
It stands for Three Letter Acronym, you see not everyone knows what they mean!! You used one without explanation.

 

[day_trippr]

RTV is a high temperature silicone sealant ("Room Temperature Vulcanizing"), and I doubt most RTV users even know that's what it stands for.
The stuff has been around for many decades and has always been known simply as "RTV"...

Cheers!

 

[tripeland]

Would a food grade epoxy putty be ok? Like this: Selleys Knead It Aqua

 

[day_trippr]

As a hot-side stop-gap measure, that would work. And give you time to contact said "undisclosed online store" [insert commensurately dramatic eyeroll] with photos of that clearly defectively manufactured lid and seek replacement of same...

Cheers!

 

[Beermeister32]

JB weld it. A great and strong epoxy available at Lowe’s or Home Depot.

 

[RufusBrewer]

@RufusBrewer
It stands for Three Letter Acronym, you see not everyone knows what they mean!! You used one without explanation.

I am familiar with ironically named TLA. And I hate when people through those around, assuming everybody knows what they mean.

I guess I thought RTV was ubiquitous enough that it does not need an explanation. Would Room Temperature Vulcanizing be easier to understand? I doubt it.

Any way looking forward to the posts that scold for omitting BIAB = Brew In A Bag.

 

[odie]

JB weld it. A great and strong epoxy available at Lowe’s or Home Depot.

ya beat me to it...for something like that, one drop of steel and one drop of hardener is all you need.

FWIW...after 3 failed attempts at silver soldering my 1" heat element fitting and always having a very minor seep...I just JB welded over the solder and it hasn't failed...strange in that my solder job on the 1/2 ferrule went great???

 

[IslandLizard]

I've had issues with JB Weld's adhesion (sticking) properties, even on roughed-up surfaces and properly cleaning (acetone). Just sticking a small gob in/on the little hole in that corner may hold, or it may not.

I'd go with RTV Silicone, it really sticks well, and won't get knocked off easily.

 

[Mr. Vern]

I would contact the seller due to poor workmanship. Or, if you feel the trouble to return and have it corrected is not worthwhile a HOT torch and 56% silver solder will do ya.

It is possible the welder had enough material on top of that fitting that it passed visual inspection and low pressure leak test (if it was even tested). It looks like maybe some material broken off from the top.. It could have even been an extra gob to pass QC because they knew the weld sucked. We see this on copper to stainless brazing where I work.

 

[tripeland]

Went with a silicone sealant in the end and have managed to get a replacement on the way from the seller. Thanks guys

 

[PberBob]

If you’re using silicone sealant,replace more often than your bathtub caulk. In time, the same thing is happening in both. ;-o

 

[apache_brew]

glad you were able to get a replacement. Easy fix with a TIG machine. clean with acetone and hit both sides with 150 amps coming off a sharp tungsten electrode without any filler until the puddle fills the joints.