Reduction of 2" SS to Copper for condenser

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Homercidal

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I am making a 2" column from some SS pipe I found in a scrapyard. It's going up about 18", over 12" and then down about 4". From there I need to decide how to reduce to 3/4" or so Copper and condense it.
Should I be looking for a 2"x ?? SS reducer and weld it on? or would it be better to go Copper. I'm not sure what's readily available. Maybe Triclamp reducer?

The 2" SS pipe is smooth. It likely came from a local Dairy. The scrapyard here has tons of it.
 
One possibility is to weld a ferrule fitting on the end of the SS tube then attach a tri-clamp SS to NPT transition fitting to that. From there you can put together copper fittings and reducers to get you to the desired diameter. This also allows easy dis-assembly for cleaning and storage.

These guys should have everything you need:

https://www.glaciertanks.com/
 
One possibility is to weld a ferrule fitting on the end of the SS tube then attach a tri-clamp SS to NPT transition fitting to that. From there you can put together copper fittings and reducers to get you to the desired diameter. This also allows easy dis-assembly for cleaning and storage.

These guys should have everything you need:

https://www.glaciertanks.com/

That sounds like a good idea. Easy to take apart and store.
 
I'm not sure it's a good idea, but it is what I'm planning to do. ;)
 
Not exactly sure where you heard that but it's wrong in all aspects wrong!

There are many many of distilleries that still use traditional potstill and even some large commercial distilleries still use today, copper in the vapor path reduces sulfides that cause off flavors.

As long as proper protocols have been taken to clean, water/vinegar run followed by a sacrificial run of alcohol to clean build residue (Flux and other mess left behind) copper has a patina that is desirable in copper pot stills.

Very few still are completely ss and if anyone who has done minimal research should have read to keep copper somewhere in the vapor path.

Even folks I know with stills from still dragon have copper mesh in the packing section or sieve plates made of copper, or shotgun condenser with the inside tube copper. all to avoid the dreaded sulfides in the final spirit.
 
To answer the question on reduction, if using a worm.?.? heat up the opportunity 2" and hammer out an easy flange and use the ss ferrule to Guage the OD edge, use a ptfe gasket to connect and just add reducers to get the fit you need for the worm od.
Of using a liebig I would eliminate the downward after the 12" crossover, and instead tig a ferrule to the crossover and a ferrule on the liebig as you want a 45° angle on it and no less than 36"lg

A shotgun condenser you would want to stay 2" all the way.

Go to homedistiller.org and use the search bar and there are many many threads on condensers. you won't be let down!
 
We are talking about copper in the DOWNWARD path being bad....

Copper in the UPWARD path is good...

please read the article:
"It was found that copper in the ascending phase on still decreased EC dramatically and copper was (re)introduced into column stills. Adversely copper salts in the new make does catalyse the EC formation during the maturation, so most grain distillers use only stainless steel in the condensers to dimish the amount of copper residues in the new make.
 
Very interesting read, I've been to a few not many distilleries and all I've been to have had copper shotgun style condensers.

Maybe it's because of the continuous stills they run? IDK

Maybe some are more concerned, but on a hobby level I highly doubt that would be an issue.?.?

You learn something new every day eh.
 
I found it easier with silver braze but you need a good heat source not just a propane or map gas bottle.

They sell copper ferrules on amazon for 12-16$ for 2"
 
IMG_20180303_191507063.jpg


Went with a 3/8" pipe running through a 1/2" pipe. The TC adapter goes right to 1/2" so the copper threads right on. I'm only waiting on the other end of the TC adapter to get here from China so I can weld it onto the column. And I have to actually brew something, of course. Have to remember to check the feed store for some corn. I'm pretty low on grain ATM.
 
Cooking a mash use cornmeal, if doing a sugar head use crack corn.
 
I will say that running 2" into 3/8" is flirting with disaster, I'd personally not go below 1/2"
I see alot of folks using 3/4"over 1/2" for the liebig condenser at 36" long for a 2" potstill.
You had better clear and strain your wash, it only takes a couple grains to clog up in a 90°
My buddy in Ireland just about blown himself up because of a simple clog in his 90, the thumper went from the shape of a Keg to a bowling ball, luckily he got the pressure off before it blew but I'll tell ya one thing, ain't nothing like safety first.

It's simple and it could save your life.
 
I will say that running 2" into 3/8" is flirting with disaster, I'd personally not go below 1/2"
I see alot of folks using 3/4"over 1/2" for the liebig condenser at 36" long for a 2" potstill.
You had better clear and strain your wash, it only takes a couple grains to clog up in a 90°
My buddy in Ireland just about blown himself up because of a simple clog in his 90, the thumper went from the shape of a Keg to a bowling ball, luckily he got the pressure off before it blew but I'll tell ya one thing, ain't nothing like safety first.

It's simple and it could save your life.

Good info! There aren't any 90s. There is a 45 in the 1/2" as it comes down from the tri-clover.

Also, I intend to both strain my wash AND install a pressure relief valve of some kind, likely off the column somewhere. Trust me, I'm highly aware of the possibility of overpressuring this thing!
 
Where would be best to install a thermometer? I want to monitor temps, of course. I think I remember seeing them at the top of the column.

Actually, if I use a rubber grommet and slip a thermometer in there, it could act as a relief valve too. It would be only snug enough to seal the vapor from leaking under normal conditions. Any buildup of pressure would allow the gas to escape.
 
Try where the column meets the liebig and use a tee. put a natural cork in the top no too tightly so if the pressure builds it blows the. ork.
I will add, use a length of copper pipe above head height to blow off steam:)
 
If you get pressure buildup there is something very wrong with your piping. Probably too small diameter. The path should be open to the atmosphere. Pressure buildup can lead to very bad (even deadly) situations. Leaving a few “blow off“portions is wise.
 
I run grains in my thumper so there is a possibility of clogging up that's why I mentioned a relief valve of some sort. It has happened to folks ( not me ) but is safer to have the extra insurance.

Some stills a 4" with a 1/2" liebig which is fukn crazy to me to reduce that much
 
FWIW I tested my still the other day and it seemed to work. I just used water and a quick 1 cup collection (due to time constraints).

I still have to install a thermometer and a pressure relief.

My collected water was slightly cloudy, which reminded me I forgot to clean the thing! What should I use to clean the column (SS) and condenser (Copper)? The condenser is a straight shot and I can brush. The column will not allow a straight brushing. Might be able to run a rag on a string through it. I'm hoping for a chemical cleaner option.
 
Do a 50/50 vinegarWater run followed by a sacrificial run of alcohol which means to throw it out after distilling.

I've forgotten what size still you have but a box or two of wine run though should clean it well enough to run a batch of whatever you desire.

If you like you can keep the run for weed killer or window cleaning or for starting a BBQ BUT!!!!!!! Label it as poison or the like to keep you or anyone else from accidentall consumption.
 
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