Reduce Keezer Puddles: Seal The Factory Gaps!

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day_trippr

The Central Scruuuutinizer
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Last winter I rehabbed my 8 year old keezer which had developed worrisome rusting on the bottom, the result of years of summer-time humidity outrunning my attempts to capture the moisture with a pair of EVA Dry 500s. They worked fine for 9 months of the year, but from June through the end of August they couldn't really keep up. Over the years I had done all the obvious stuff to cut down on moisture ingress but barely made a dent.

In the course of the rehab I realized the plastic cap on the top of the base cabinet had a suspicious lack of any evident sealant - outside or inside. I tried shooting high-pressure air under the outside edge - and could feel it exiting under the inside edge - an "Ah HAH!" moment. So I applied silicone sealant under the inside edge of the cap, forcing it in as best as the gun allowed, running all the way 'round the cabinet. I also pried up the four seams and shot sealant in.

That was last winter. Today as I was re-filling my rinser water keg I noticed there wasn't any puddling all. Then I realized I hadn't swapped the pair of the EVA Dry units for a dried pair in at least a couple of months. And this was hardly an exceptionally dry summer - quite the opposite, actually, according to my A/C bill :)

This is the type of plastic top cap I'm referring to. This is on my next keezer, but the old one is similar.

keezer_leaks_01.jpg



There are four of these seams. Each one provides an ingress path, and causes a gap under the lid gasket...

keezer_leaks_02.jpg



...like this one.

keezer_leaks_03.jpg



This is a pic of a similar gap on my current ("K2") keezer. The sealant cut the gap down by at least half and could have been done even better.

keezer_leaks_04.jpg


But those four small gaps are nothing compared to the entire perimeter of the cap leaking like a sieve.

Aaanyway...preferentially, use something other than typical 100% silicone sealant, because that stuff doesn't really stick to anything well. As I build "K3" I'll be using the same marine grade sealant I use on through-hull bolts and fittings on my boat. That stuff sticks to pretty much anything...

Cheers!
 
i was thinking on the bottom seal, where you have the grooves from the corner pieces.....i was thinking it's more soft and would conform to that slight crack better then the ridged top seal.....

not sure....
 
If it was compliant enough a carefully cut slip of foam tape might work. Could be worth a try, but again, those four small gaps are a second or even third order issue compared to the entirety of the plastic cap...

Cheers!
 
man you're the kegging master, i'm just trying to make small talk....lol

worthy.gif



you're post makes me wonder about my fridge, that i just cut a section of the seal so i could slip my gas line through it.......wonder how much electricity that's costing me.....
 
i was also thinking, what about getting a sander, and sanding them so the angle wasn't as bad on them?
 
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