Quick Question

[rockcity2009]

Hey all, quick question,

My beer has been in the carboy for about 14 days now. Took a hydro reading at the beginning it was about 1.03. I Think it is about 1.05 now. so first question is; it is very hard to see in the carboy to get an accurate reading, from the beginning stages from blow-off. any way to clean the inside without disruting sanitation and comprimising the beer to get a good reading?



Thanks All!

 

[emjay]

Hey all, quick question,

My beer has been in the carboy for about 14 days now. Took a hydro reading at the beginning it was about 1.03. I Think it is about 1.05 now. so first question is; it is very hard to see in the carboy to get an accurate reading, from the beginning stages from blow-off. any way to clean the inside without disruting sanitation and comprimising the beer to get a good reading?



Thanks All!

You need a thief/sampler and a sample jar. You're supposed to take a small sample from the carboy, put it in the sample jar, and take the reading from there.

Afterwards, either drink the sample or dump it out.

 

[frailn]

I just use the plastic tube that my hydrometer came in to take my sample and reading. Anyone else do that?

 

[Dons]

Yup. as emjay said, use a thief/sampler (aka turkey baster - lol) to grab a bit, put in the tube your hydrometer came from, take a reading, drink the sample (I've never been inclined to throw it out). You should put a mark on the tube as to how far to fill it each time. Buy/dedicate a turkey baster just for your beer - don't tell the SO, if there is one.

 

[bonzombiekitty]

Hey all, quick question,

My beer has been in the carboy for about 14 days now. Took a hydro reading at the beginning it was about 1.03. I Think it is about 1.05 now.

I hope you mean 1.005, not 1.05. The gravity goes down, not up.

so first question is; it is very hard to see in the carboy to get an accurate reading, from the beginning stages from blow-off. any way to clean the inside without disruting sanitation and comprimising the beer to get a good reading?

You shouldn't be putting the hydrometer directly in the carboy. You should take a sample from the carboy, put it in a different container (the tube the hydrometer comes in works fine), and use the hydrometer on THAT.

 

[rockcity2009]

Ohhh ok that makes sense duh, lol cant believe i was putting it right in the carboy..

as for the gravity... I do not understand how it is going up and not down? possibly becuase i am not taking the reading for a jar to sample?

 

[bonzombiekitty]

as for the gravity... I do not understand how it is going up and not down? possibly becuase i am not taking the reading for a jar to sample?

That really shouldn't matter. More likely, you are not reading it correctly.

 

[rockcity2009]

Is there a correct way to use it? I simply take the reading from the place just touching the liquid? after it has come to stop bobbing of course

 

[bonzombiekitty]

Is there a correct way to use it? I simply take the reading from the place just touching the liquid? after it has come to stop bobbing of course

You might be looking at the wrong scale or not understanding the number correctly.

On some hydrometers you may see "05" but the "1.0" is implied, so it's really 1.005.

ETA: Also, you may not have measured correctly initially. If you added top-up water to the wort, you may have hit on a spot that hadn't been fully incorporated into the rest of the solution. So you may have gotten a reading of 1.03, but the actually OG may have been much, much higher (hard to say without a recipe). Even if this is the case, 1.05 is very high for having fermented for 14 days- most beers start off around there.

 

[rockcity2009]

yes, that is exactly what I did. I took the OG after I added the top-up water. When should I take the OG reading? you guys are amazing thank you for all of your help so far..

This is the recipe that I used.

German pilsner grain 2.5 pds
lager grain .5 pds
belgin aromatic grain .5 pds

Saaz hops
added 3 times in increments of 3 oz, .5 oz, .5 oz

should I keg today? or wait another couple days to take another Gravity reading as well?

 

[emjay]

Oh lawdy, where the heck did you get that recipe? Is it a 5gal batch?

 

[rockcity2009]

yeah its a 5 gallon. got the recipe from the homebrew place. not such a good recipe?

 

[boomtown25]

i just use the plastic tube that my hydrometer came in to take my sample and reading. Anyone else do that?

+1

 

[Yooper]

yeah its a 5 gallon. got the recipe from the homebrew place. not such a good recipe?

No, it's absolutely terrible. I think that either you copied it down wrong, or they thought you were doing a 2.5 gallon batch, but sold you double the hops for a 5 gallon batch? Very weird, and not really a decent recipe at all. It looks like the beginnings of a German lager grain bill, though.

 

[boomtown25]

For what it is worth, when you add top off water, shake the sh*t out of it before you take your OG. You want your boiled wort mixed thoroughly with the water.

 

[grant-robison]

uhhh, and doesn't this recipe need to be mashed? 3# of grain total for a 5 gallon batch? could you provide a link to this recipe?

 

[emjay]

For what it is worth, when you add top off water, shake the sh*t out of it before you take your OG. You want your boiled wort mixed thoroughly with the water.

True, though considering the grain used, I imagine 1.030 isn't terribly inaccurate.

OP: I hope you like hops! And watery beer

 

[emjay]

uhhh, and doesn't this recipe need to be mashed? 3# of grain total for a 5 gallon batch? could you provide a link to this recipe?

Yes, it needs to be mashed. I guess at this point it's not unreasonable to wonder about the OP's process though.

Rockcity: How did you brew this beer? By that I mean, what was your process for turning the grain into the wort that eventually went into the fermentor?

 

[rockcity2009]

There isnt a link for the recipe; but here it is copied exactly.

This beer inspired most other light lagers. light to medium bodied this beers is light gold in color. Generous use of
noble Saaz hops give it a hoppy spicy flavor. This is the
Ultimate Lawn Mower beer for those you don t want to give
up on flavor
3.3 lbs. Gold Malt Extract
2 ½ lbs. German Pilsner Grain (cracked)
½ lbs. Lager Grain (cracked)
½ lbs. Belgian Aromatic Grain (cracked)
3 oz. Saaz Hops
½ oz. Saaz Hops
½ oz. Saaz Hops
1 pkg. Wyeast Liquid Yeast - California Lager or Pilsner
Lager (if you have temp. controlled refrigerator.)
Mash grains in 1½ gal. 160°F water for 60 min. Sparge
with 1 gal. 170°F water. Return liquid to pot and add malt &
3 oz. Saaz & boil for 30 min. Add ½ oz. Saaz & boil 30
min. Remove from heat & add ½ oz. Saaz. Steep for 10
min. Strain into enough cold water to make 5 gal. & pitch
yeast when 80°F or below. Ferment at 70°F or lower if
possible.

 

[rockcity2009]

thanks boomtown! ill keep that in mind next time... great tip!

 

[emjay]

Oh, there's malt extract in the recipe. Did you use any extract?

 

[rockcity2009]

emjay..

I boiled one gallon of water, poured it into a cooler with grains to steep for 60 min. poured the wort into a 20 quart pot (through the colander). boiled another gallon poured it over grains into the pot. added malt and boiled for another hour. adding hops as the recipe asked. and the end of the boil, I put the pot in a sink to cool. as this is happening I pour 2 gallons of near freezing water into the carboy added the wort and wait for the wort to drop below 70 degrees F. Is this correct? I cannot say thank you enough for all your help guys.

 

[rockcity2009]

yes i used the Briess CBW pure malt extract

 

[emjay]

yes i used the Briess CBW pure malt extract

Oh okay. You neglected to mention that originally. The recipe actually shouldn't be too bad then.

However, did you by any chance measure the original gravity BEFORE mixing in the extract?

 

[Hang Glider]

Ok, it will be interesting, but not the best. However, we all had a first beer - not to worry.

With the recipe you had, the cracked grains need to be held at 154F (plus or minus 2 degrees will increase mouthfeel, or increase alcohol). Hold for an hour. Then drain into boil kettle and rinse with 170F water. Rinse water into the boil kettle too.

using NO grain, just the runnings, bring to a boil, adding the bittering hops. Add the extract early in the boil for a darker color, later in the boil for a lighter color. Boil for an hour, adding hops per recipe. Top off to 5 gallons and aerate (shake, or use oxygen). Pull your OG sample. Cool to 50F, pitch the yeast. Leave it be for three to six weeks. You can use ale yeasts at 62-65F, but lager yeasts should be used colder, and then lagered cold after fermentation. Pull your FG sample prior to bottling/kegging

How To Brew is a book written by John Palmer, free on the web - a good read to help understand the processes.

Of course, this is a simplified version.

 

[rockcity2009]

cool..yeah sorry about that emjay, next time ill make sure I mention everything. no I did not measure it before the extract. I will make sure that I do it next time.
no clue that it had to be about 154.... I think my boil was well over close to 170.
I am also using a yeast starter kit and force carbonating with a c-keg

I have the book by charlie pappizan...its ok informative, I think I need more hands on.

I was thinking of brewing another batch today. let me know what u think
this is another recipe for the homebrew store close to me.

american pale ale.

A lighter version of a British Pale Ales but with a greater
strength and a higher level of hoppiness. Citrus notes from
the Cascade hops drive the aroma. Similar in color than it s
British Cousin. Similar to Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.
6.6 lbs. Light or Gold Liquid Malt Extract
1 lb. British Pale Grain (cracked)
¾ oz. Chinook Hops
1½ oz. Cascade Hops
1 pkg. Wyeast Liquid Yeast - American Ale
Mash all grains in 1 gal water at 158°F for 30 min. Sparge
at 170°F to make 2 gal. Add malt & ¾ oz. Chinook. Boil for
60 min. adding ½ oz. Cascade at 30 minute mark
(mid-point of boil) another ½ oz. at 50 minute mark & final
½ oz. after boil has stopped. Let sit for 10 min. (to allow for
steeping). Strain into fermenter filled with 3 gal. ice cold
water. Pitch yeast when cooled to 80°F or lower.
Yields 5 gal.

any special suggestions?

second to Lastly i have the current beer in my only glass carboy.. I do have the bucket that came with the orginal kit.... should i brew up the next batch and ferment in the bucket or wait until the carboy is complete.

Lastly should I keg up the beer in the carboy today? or let sit for a couple more days?

 

[emjay]

I'd give your beer another 2 weeks before kegging it.

Also, with your current beer, that 1 pound of British grain is unnecessary, you'd be better off just tossing in a bit of DME (dry malt extract). However, either way you will find the malt profile very bland.

In order to make a half-decent malt base, I highly suggest removing that pound of British grain adding:

- 1 pound of Munich DME, used at the same time as the Briess Golden extract
- Half a pound of caramel 40° or 60° (grain), but simply steeping instead of mashing should simplify things here.

Lastly: go ahead and use that bucket to brew this beer ASAP!

 

[rockcity2009]

COOOOOL!!!! Thanks for all your help brother.. let you guys know how it comes out.

 

[Hang Glider]

For what it's worth - steeping grains is about 160-ish for half an hour or so, in the boil water. But the grains you had listed needed to be mashed (enzymatically converted from starch to sugar) hence the 154 for an hour.

Many recipes are extract recipes (Liquid or Dry malt extract) with some grains for flavor and color - (steeping) - like caramel malts and roasted barleys

yours was a partial mash recipe - extract and base malt. A bit more complicated.

 

[emjay]

For what it's worth - steeping grains is about 160-ish for half an hour or so, in the boil water. But the grains you had listed needed to be mashed (enzymatically converted from starch to sugar) hence the 154 for an hour.

Many recipes are extract recipes (Liquid or Dry malt extract) with some grains for flavor and color - (steeping) - like caramel malts and roasted barleys

yours was a partial mash recipe - extract and base malt. A bit more complicated.

Yeah, the modification (improvement?) I made to his recipe turned it into an extract w/steeping grains, rather than a partial mash recipe.

 

[beaksnbeer]

COOOOOL!!!! Thanks for all your help brother.. let you guys know how it comes out.

Remember readings are set for 60* sample if temps are higher you will need to adjust, many new brewers do not take this into account when reading their OG/FG......my.02

 

[emjay]

Remember readings are set for 60* sample if temps are higher you will need to adjust, many new brewers do not take this into account when reading their OG/FG......my.02

Not necessarily 60... mine is calibrated to 68°. But good point.

 

[Dons]

Rocket, just a suggestion. Papazian's book is good, but is getting a bit out of date. Palmer is the way to go - but his on-line version, as indicated above, is abbreviated. It is also an older edition with some holes. If you are serious about sticking with brewing, I'd really suggest biting the bullet and buying the latest version of Palmer's book. It is current (Third Edition, 2006, iirc), well written and not many errors (ignore the sentence about sparge water needs to be 1.5 x mash water - haha). I am not affiliated with Mr. Palmer in any way. lol.

 

[bonzombiekitty]

According to the recipe you posted, your OG would have been somewhere in the vicinity of 1.042 and that's only if you had mashed your grain. Since you didn't mash your grain, your OG was lower than that, so 1.03 isn't entirely unlikely.