Question about kegging...

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D-urb

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Ok, so we've been brewing for a couple of years now and bottling, but we want to start kegging. What I need to know is this; we have a keggerator setup already and just need to know what we need to take our beer from the primary to a pressurized keg. I'm guessing we need a CO2 container, some sort of connectors, and a keg or two. Can anyone give me a clue on how to do this and what equipment we need?
 
Ok, so we've been brewing for a couple of years now and bottling, but we want to start kegging. What I need to know is this; we have a keggerator setup already and just need to know what we need to take our beer from the primary to a pressurized keg. I'm guessing we need a CO2 container, some sort of connectors, and a keg or two. Can anyone give me a clue on how to do this and what equipment we need?


I'm not an expert as I started this summer, but started with a keg setup instead of bottling. If you are going to skip the secondary (go directly from your primary to a keg), you just need to rack to the (sanitized) keg. After filling it, close the keg and seal with CO2. Vent the keg, then re-seal with CO2 to your desired pressure for carbonation (e.g. 12 psi). (You might to repeat the gas/vent cycle a few times to ensure all the air is out the keg and replaced with CO2.) Then put the keg in the keggerator for a week.

If you want to do natural carbonation in the keg, you can sterilize your sugar solution (less than if your were bottling, e.g. 1/2 the amount) and put the sugar solution in the sanitized keg. Then rack the beer to the keg on top of the solution, do the venting trick above and then leave the keg sealed in the room where you would normally leave your bottles for conditioning (i.e. at a temperature that allows the yeast to eat the sugar and produce the natural carbonation.) After the carbonation period (e.g. one or two weeks), then put the keg in the fridge and your on the way to the races.

If you need/want to do a secondary in the keg, you can rack from the primary to the secondary, gas/vent to remove the excess oxygen, and do the secondary in the keg (sealed). After the secondary is complete, you can go from the secondary/conditioning keg to another (sanitized) using a keg to keg direct transfer. One way of doing this is to rig up a beverage out (from the secondary/conditioning keg) to the serving keg beverage out). In the serving keg, vent the oxygen (using the vent method above), then seal. Apply some gas to the conditioning keg which has the beverage to beverage line set up with the serving keg. Then allow the serving keg to vent using the pressure relief value, then the beer will start to transfer from the secondary/conditioning keg to the serving keg. Continue to occasionally vent form the serving keg as the transfer slows. Before doing the keg to keg transfer, you may want to remove a couple of pints from the secondary/conditioning keg as the secondary/conditioning probably created some waste which will have settled to the bottom. If you simply serve out a couple of pints, you will remove that (just like you would avoid that if you racked from the secondary).

Hope this makes sense. I hope the more experienced brewers will chime in with corrections or additional details/tips. I actually did the keg to keg transfer described above with the remains of a commercial beer that I wanted to put in a corny so I had room in my keggalator for additional home brew.
 
Ok, so we've been brewing for a couple of years now and bottling, but we want to start kegging. What I need to know is this; we have a keggerator setup already and just need to know what we need to take our beer from the primary to a pressurized keg. I'm guessing we need a CO2 container, some sort of connectors, and a keg or two. Can anyone give me a clue on how to do this and what equipment we need?

I'm assuming your current setup is for commercial (sankey) kegs? If it is, you can either choose to keg in the 15gal sankey kegs or keg in 5gal corny kegs. Sankey kegs require a little more work, so you'll want to search for how to remove the spear from those kegs so that you can get to the inside of them.

The 5gal corny kegs are the soda kegs that most people use for homebrew. To convert your current kegerator to corny kegs you'd need new disconnects for the liquid and gas posts of the corny kegs (two types depending on the type of keg, pin or ball lock). Then all you need is the CO2 tank and regulator, some hose to go to the gas disconnect, and some hose to go to the faucets. Then you're good to go!
 
try to find a used pressure tested co2 tank, went to get my brand new shiney filled and it was 60 bucks to get pressure tested + gas or 11 for exchange on used tank full. had several tanks exchanged. some are pretty some are downright ugly. as long as they work... who cares! regulators can be expensive, my more dual pressure expensive unit leaked like a sive my cheap unit which I added a splitter to is solid as a rock. parting out expensive one for another dual pressure cheap model. check ebay some nice dual pressure units under $90 and a single under $50

I have 3 kegs for a 2 tap system force carb 2, sugar prime 1 always have a piple line
 
If you already have a kegerator set up for sanke kegs, you can keg your brew in 1/6, 1/4 or 1/2 sanke kegs. remove stem, rack beer and replace stem. Chill and pressurize, wait and serve. Search around for stem removal and replacement.
 
The current setup is your typical kegerator set up to what I call 'normal' kegs. It's actually my buddy's setup. He has two taps going and we're trying to replace one of them with homebrew. So, what I am getting here is that I'll need at least one keg with the removable top so we can pour the beer into it. I'm going to keep it simple and just do a primary fermentation so no need for a two keg setup. Then, I need a pressurized CO2 tank, some hoses, and a pressure
valve?
 
Ok, another question: ball lock or pin lock? Now that I'm thinking about this, his kegerator should have the CO2 pressure valve setup already, right? So I would just need one of the soda type kegs and the disconnects?

Sorry if this is painful for the experienced guys. I've never done anything with kegs ever so you have to talk to me like a 6 year old...ok, like a 4 year old.....now, talk to me like a 2 year old. ;)
 
so you have to talk to me like a 6 year old...ok, like a 4 year old.....now, talk to me like a 2 year old.

Or at least a 2 year old that wants to get into kegging, which I'm ok supporting :D. You should be correct. I'm assuming that the kegerator already has a CO2 tank and a regulator to release the CO2 from the tank and set the pressure you want to give to the kegs. Also assuming that you've got the faucet setup ready to go, all you'll need is a liquid and gas disconnect and a keg. As far as the kegs go, pin lock are a little shorter and fatter while ball lock are a little taller and skinnier, if that matters space-wise. Otherwise, right now pin locks tend to be quite a bit cheaper ($20 vs. $35-40 for ball locks) so you might want to go there. A few places are also selling pin-lock keg bodies that they've converted to ball lock posts for a cheaper price.

For the disconnects, you'll need one for the gas and one for the liquid, and you'll need the specific one for the type of keg you get (ball or pin). Disconnects come in two varieties, barbed and MFL. The barbed just contain a barb that you slide the hose over and secure with a clamp. The MFL have a barbed nut that fits inside the hose, then can be unscrewed from the disconnect. MFLs are handy if you are thinking about switching between pin and ball lock kegs, or switching back and forth between homebrew and commercial kegs, since you can just unscrew the nut and attach the correct disconnect rather than having to take the hoses off all over again.

The sankey tap that's already connected will have both hoses going into a single tap as sankey kegs use the same tap for liquid and gas. Take the hoses off of that (or cut them off right at the tap if need be), hook the CO2 line up to the gas disconnect and the line to the faucet to the liquid disconnect and you're ready to go!
 
The MFL have a barbed nut that fits inside the hose, then can be unscrewed from the disconnect. MFLs are handy if you are thinking about switching between pin and ball lock kegs, or switching back and forth between homebrew and commercial kegs, since you can just unscrew the nut and attach the correct disconnect rather than having to take the hoses off all over again.

+1. Since the OP already has a Sanke tap, it's nice to be able to throw in a sixer of commercial beer (God forbid) and use the same gas/bev line setup, and MFL's allow for a quick changeover. I didn't realize this when I first went from Sanke to Corny and have now have a mixture of barbed only and MFL.
 
Cool, thanks guys. That's pretty much what I was thinking.

One more thing. Do you filter the beer at all before putting it in the keg? Is that just a preference thing?
 
No need to filter for me (although some people do). I siphon my beer into the keg straight from the primary, hook it up to CO2 in the fridge at about 10psi (dependent on temp of fridge and beer style), and let it sit on the gas for 3 weeks (probably carbed earlier but I like to be sure). In that time, all of the yeast in suspension and any other trub that got in has settled to the bottom in the cold of the fridge. Run about half a pint out and all the stuff that has settled comes out, then you can toss that and drink nice clean beer! The other thing some people do if they really have trouble with it (if you decide to naturally carbonate by priming in the keg for instance) is to cut the dip tube off an inch or so or even just bend it up off the bottom slightly so that everything can settle below it.
 
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