Pump projects and brain farts

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JetSmooth

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After falling off a ladder with my last brew day tending to my mash, I decided it was time to get a second pump. I have a Little Giant 3-MD mounted to the bottom of my BrewLadder to return liquid to the mash tun, but wanted to move to single tier. So I bought a Chugger.

Since I break my brewing setup down and stash it under the stairs, I can't do a permanent sculpture now, I want to mount the pumps in ammo boxes for mobility.

My dad got hold of two fat fifty cal boxes, which should be plenty big enough.

I bought some 100v fans to mount inside the boxes for cooling:
http://www.hollandcomputers.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=8063

My plan is to plug each box into a GFCI outlet mounted in a third enclosure (again, to be modular). Power input on each box to me something like this:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=306

Now, I'm looking for switches. I'd like something slick and control-panel looking instead of a household light switch. As long as I'm doing this project, I want it looking pro.

I can't decide between pushbutton (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=328) or selector switch (http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...uminated_-a-_Non-Illuminated/LED/GCX3244-120L)

What would be the advantages of either? Of the two I linked to, are they correct in voltage and amperage to support the operation of the fan and pump? I'll have each pump in its own housing.

My thought is to have the fan before the pump switch so it acts as a safety and ensures the fan is always running when plugged in. Should I add a "power" switch before the fan, then?

Both my Chugger and Little Giant pumps are wired with plugs and I'm hesitant to lop the plugs off and wire them directly. So I'll likely just have an outlet inside the boxes. In that case, does it make more sense to put a GFCI inside each box and dispense with the third GFCI outlet box?

I know I've read all this in threads elsewhere. But you know how it is, a few beers and you forget where you saw them. :p
 
Can't say about the GFCI locations but I must say those push button switches look fantastic. Also I would wire the fan to come on only when the pumps are switched on, but thats just me. Are you just going to wire in a 12v transformer for the computer fans?
 
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Oh, come on. Don't be such a sissy. Chop off the plug ends.

No, I wouldn't put a GFCI in each box. I'd have the two boxes plug into a single GFCI outlet.
 
Can't say about the GFCI locations but I must say those push button switches look fantastic. Also I would wire the fan to come on only when the pumps are switched on, but thats just me. Are you just going to wire in a 12v transformer for the computer fans?

The fans I ordered are 100v. SO I thought I could just wire them up with everything. May get osme power distribution blocks to make it easier.

I would just use a pluggable GFCI outlet like this at the source power outlet: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Fire-Shi...ge-Protector-90265-6HD/100117184#.Uchg6Dvvh8E

Now that's a nifty little thing!! Just found a three-outlet one at HD also. It will let me plug in two pump boxes and have one extra. Excellent find.

Oh, come on. Don't be such a sissy. Chop off the plug ends.

Yeah. I know. :p It will make things easier.
 
You want the GFCI at the wall, not in the boxes. Reason being that if water gets in your box and causes a short, or your wiring isn't perfect and a few strands get loose and energize the ammo can - you want the GFCI to trip at the wall and kill the feed to the box and the pumps, not inside the box where the problem could be 'upstream' of the GFCI you installed.

If you're going to put a switch in, don't worry about outlets and junction boxes and all that. I'll explain more later.

For your switches - wiring up the selector switch would be easier as it has screw-terminals vs the small solder-on type connections of the push button. Either switch has plenty of rating for a pump and a fan. Also, you can add additional contact blocks to the selector switch, which you can't do to the push button. Here's my theory / what I'd say you could go with for easiest approach.

Get the receptacle you show. Run a wire from the ground pin to a bolt you have attached through the side of the box using a star-washer to bite through the paint and into metal - this grounds your box and helps keep you alive. Get the selector switch and an extra NO contact block like this one (note - there are 2 per order, which is perfect because you want 2 switches). On one of the NO contacts, run your hot line. On the other, run your neutral line. Connect the load side of the contact blocks to your pump and fan hot / neutral respectively, and run a jumper from the hot and neutral load side to the LED terminals on the switch - that way it lights up when you turn it on, and the light turns off when you turn the switch off. NOW, before anyone jumps down my throat - you don't actually need to switch the neutral, but you DO need to connect the fan and pump neutrals together, so... you could either use a wire nut freely hanging in the box, or you could go a step further and install a junction box and make the connection there... or just buy the NO contact block and keep things clean and simple.

This way you have minimal wiring in your box, all your connections are via screw terminals (with the exception of the receptacle you want - not sure how the wires attach there), and your box would function well. Pump and fan turn on and off together, LED lights up when the pump is in run mode, and the whole setup is GFCI protected at the source.

-Kevin
 
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