Pump & Fitting Recommendations?

[Bent-Brewer]

I'm looking into getting a pump for recirculation, whirlpooling, and an eventual CIP setup. What are your thoughts on the usual pumps and fitting types (Blichmann quick-connect style vs cams vs triclover)? Right now, I'm leaning towards:

• RipTide pump - I don't have any spare valves/fittings, so a Chugger or March would be right around the same price as the RipTide after factoring in those alongside a stainless head. Plus the RipTide has a few nice-to-have features that the others don't.

• Triclover fittings - I know they aren't super necessary on the hot side of things. I'm used to working with them and know how easy they are to maintain, which is why I'm contemplating dropping the money on them. Plus I can get the fittings silver soldered to the pump input/output.
  • If I go with TC's, what gasket material do you recommend? I'm assuming silicone and EPDM are preferable based on temperature rating and material compatibility?
  • For people who went with cam/QD options, did you end up thinking "I should have just gone with the TC fittings" later (or vice versa)?

Thoughts/recommendations?

 

[day_trippr]

[...]For people who went with cam/QD options, did you end up thinking "I should have just gone with the TC fittings" later (or vice versa)?[...]

My rig is totally SS camlocked. No regrets, particularly as camlocks can be coupled/uncoupled one-handed.

As for the pump, while I'm still running an original set of March 815-PLs the Riptide looks like a pretty good pump and the integrated valve and bleeder pretty much nulls out the price premium. I'm not a fan of the valve but that's user preference...

Cheers!

 

[Hop Widget]

I went all 1 1/2” TC. I use pretty much all silicon gaskets with a mix of 1 1/2” and 1” size (same outside diameter, but the 1” gaskets have a smaller center hole). To me, the big bonus of TC was the fact that it’s industry standard so it’s possible to find all sorts of compatible fittings if you ever want to try different things.

I have a chugger pump with the 3/4” center inlet SS head. It’s been fine, but if the riptide and been available then, I probably would have gone with that instead (if nothing else, it has been reported to be much quieter).

So, yes, riptide + TC is how I would go.

 

[mongoose33]

I have the Riptide. Amazing piece of equipment. I can barely hear it running. I use it for CIP for my conical, recirculating hot PBW through the CIP ball. I use it to transfer deoxygenated strike water into my underlet mash tun. I use it to whirlpool, and I use it to pump wort from the boil kettle to the fermenter. It has the output valve included, on-off switch, long cord, it's splash resistant....I may get a second one.

I went through the same "what connectors" question you're dealing with. I ended up going with mostly camlocks with a smattering of TC connectors for the conical.

I have a couple of TC connectors that connect to camlocks, so I can use camlocks on silicone tubing to transfer both wort and cleaning solution to the fermenter.

I looked closely at quick disconnects; Spike (maker of my conical) sells 'em. But in the end, I decided there were so many options with camlocks that didn't seem to exist with QDs that the decision, for me, was easy. Camlocks.

Take a look at all the camlock options that brewhardware.com offers, as well as those at stainlessbrewing.com. Compare to all the options for QDs and see whether it swings your decision.

 

[LarMoeCur]

• RipTide pump - I don't have any spare valves/fittings, so a Chugger or March would be right around the same price as the RipTide after factoring in those alongside a stainless head. Plus the RipTide has a few nice-to-have features that the others don't.

• Triclover fittings - I know they aren't super necessary on the hot side of things. I'm used to working with them and know how easy they are to maintain, which is why I'm contemplating dropping the money on them. Plus I can get the fittings silver soldered to the pump input/output.
  • If I go with TC's, what gasket material do you recommend? I'm assuming silicone and EPDM are preferable based on temperature rating and material compatibility?
  • For people who went with cam/QD options, did you end up thinking "I should have just gone with the TC fittings" later (or vice versa)?

Thoughts/recommendations?

I run center inlet chuggers with camlock fittings. I've never thought of changing to TCs nor were TCs in my budget when I built my brewery. TCs are way to expensive (more than 3 times the cost) and for the same exact job as other QDs.

Chugger center inlet pump is $141, a $13 ball valve, and a 3/4 to 1/2 coupler $4. They are still $42 dollars cheaper than the RipTide. $42 bucks buys some fittings. I'm confused on what nice-to-have features the Riptide has over the Center inlet Chugger? A priming valve? Don't need one on a center inlet. A stainless head? Chugger is stainless. Same flow rate. TC break down? I only break pump down every 5 or so batches. Chugger has 8 small screws and can be broken down in a minute or less. Now noise levels, I've never heard a Riptide in action. The fact that Chugger doesn't list dB and Blichmann does means the Chuggers are louder.

Whatever pump you chose, I would not solder any fittings to the pump head. First, they have threads and anything with threads needs to be cleaned every once in a while. There is no way you can get the solder into the inside threads to prevent wort from entering the threads and still be sanitary. Second, I don't think solder is strong enough for the job. Yes, it works great on kettles but there is no mechanical action happening in close proximity to the fitting. I think the vibrations coming off the pump will eventually cause the solder joint to fracture and leak. I could be wrong but to me not worth the risk.

 

[beermanpete]

I have cam locks and like them a lot. They are easy to handle even when hot and I can tell if they are on right or not. My friend had the quick disconnects and they would come off sometimes because it is not always clear if they are on right and they are hard to work when hot. He switched to cam locks and likes them much better.

 

[augiedoggy]

I have camlocks on the hot side and TC on the cold side which allows me to use each were they have advantages over each other.

No regrets

 

[augiedoggy]

I run center inlet chuggers with camlock fittings. I've never thought of changing to TCs nor were TCs in my budget when I built my brewery. TCs are way to expensive (more than 3 times the cost) and for the same exact job as other QDs.

Chugger center inlet pump is $141, a $13 ball valve, and a 3/4 to 1/2 coupler $4. They are still $42 dollars cheaper than the RipTide. $42 bucks buys some fittings. I'm confused on what nice-to-have features the Riptide has over the Center inlet Chugger? A priming valve? Don't need one on a center inlet. A stainless head? Chugger is stainless. Same flow rate. TC break down? I only break pump down every 5 or so batches. Chugger has 8 small screws and can be broken down in a minute or less. Now noise levels, I've never heard a Riptide in action. The fact that Chugger doesn't list dB and Blichmann does means the Chuggers are louder.

Whatever pump you chose, I would not solder any fittings to the pump head. First, they have threads and anything with threads needs to be cleaned every once in a while. There is no way you can get the solder into the inside threads to prevent wort from entering the threads and still be sanitary. Second, I don't think solder is strong enough for the job. Yes, it works great on kettles but there is no mechanical action happening in close proximity to the fitting. I think the vibrations coming off the pump will eventually cause the solder joint to fracture and leak. I could be wrong but to me not worth the risk.

if you use the special fittings bobby at brew hardware sell just for this you can mke the TC fitting "sanitary" by soldering it since the lip on the inside edge is whats soldered the threads are completely isolated... I just did this to the 2 small stainless TD5 pumps I bought for my nano brewery.

 

[LarMoeCur]

if you use the special fittings bobby at brew hardware sell just for this you can mke the TC fitting "sanitary" by soldering it since the lip on the inside edge is whats soldered the threads are completely isolated... I just did this to the 2 small stainless TD5 pumps I bought for my nano brewery.

Bobby always has the part to fix any problem. I didn't know these existed. You learn something new every day!

 

[mongoose33]

Chugger center inlet pump is $141, a $13 ball valve, and a 3/4 to 1/2 coupler $4. They are still $42 dollars cheaper than the RipTide. $42 bucks buys some fittings. I'm confused on what nice-to-have features the Riptide has over the Center inlet Chugger? A priming valve? Don't need one on a center inlet. A stainless head? Chugger is stainless. Same flow rate. TC break down? I only break pump down every 5 or so batches. Chugger has 8 small screws and can be broken down in a minute or less. Now noise levels, I've never heard a Riptide in action. The fact that Chugger doesn't list dB and Blichmann does means the Chuggers are louder.

I can barely hear my Riptide. I've never heard a Chugger or March pump except online, but I like quiet and the Riptide is shockingly quiet.

It's splash resistant, has a longer cord, on-off switch, integral valve....for me, the price wasn't that much more, after I added up the value of these features.

What really got me on it was this: I ordered a Blichmann Hellfire burner, then ordered the leg extensions. Due to a snafu, I received the wrong ones. I was inquiring about it here on HBT when a Blichmann rep saw the exchange, PM'd me, and sent me the right extensions direct. No cost, no nothing, just ON IT. That kind of customer service buys long term customers. I knew that if there was an issue, I'd have their backing. At one point, cleaning my Riptide, the tiny stainless thrust washer fell off the spindle, one bounce, and down the drain. I took apart the trap, no joy. Contacted Blichmann to find out about ordering a replacement or two, they just sent a couple to me. I did buy some replacements for that and other pieces, but again, they had my back.

*************

None of this is to denigrate your choice; we all get to make them, balancing wants, needs, resources, time constraints, and so on. Sounds like you're making good beer; I'm sure the pump model has nothing to do with your success. I'd love to try some.

 

[augiedoggy]

I actually just bought a riptide today for use in my 3bbl brewery (I have other larger and smaller pumps). The main reason I went with it instead of a more powerful pump or a chugger is mainly because I dont need more flow for its use and I like how easy it is to tear down and clean and in the brewery world everything is supposed to be sanitary. I realize this may technically not fully fit the bill but as easy as it is to tear down was the selling point... As far as home brewing I have no desire to upgrade from my little tan24v 3gpm pumps as they work perfect in their configuration.

 

[Smellyglove]

I'd go for the connections which gives you the least threads and sharp edges. It calls for way easier cleaning. I've had the more beer QD-s for several years but changed for Triclamps, less cleaning, but the threads are still there (I haven't welded on yet), which is a place for gunk to get stuck.

The riptide seems like a great pump, sort of, but some guy at my local forum voided the warranty and opened it up and found that it's not properly grounded at all, 230V version. Blichmann as always said that they are sending out stuff to fix the grounding. But it might maybe be worth looking into as the version sold in northern europe is a hazard the way it comes from the factory. But afaik they are on it blichmann style, which means it's being taken care of.

 

[TORRY HANSON]

Has anyone used the new Seaflo brewing pumps ? Looks like a similar style to the March and Chugger.

http://www.seaflo.com/en-us/product/detail/4246.html

 

[doug293cz]

Has anyone used the new Seaflo brewing pumps ? Looks like a similar style to the March and Chugger.

http://www.seaflo.com/en-us/product/detail/4246.html

The fact that all of the graphics on the linked page are computer rendered, rather than actual photographs, makes me wonder if the product actually exists yet.

Brew on