Priming Growlers

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Hi:
i am getting ready to bottle an IPA and plan to do it in 1/2 gallon growlers. I spoke to the woman who owns the local brew store and she indicated I should reduce the amount of priming sugar from 3/4 cup for 5 gallon of beer to 1/2 - 2/3 cup. Thoughts on this?

mark
 
I bottle conditioned into a one liter Growler. It had a swing top. Maybe his growlers have those on them.
It's been sitting for about a month now with a couple of 12 oz bottles and no issues.
 
I'll echo the above, DO NOT carbonate in a growler. They are not designed to take the pressure that is generated when carbonating a beer. If you really must do this, then reducing the priming sugar isn't necessary. Just a word of caution, I'd put the growlers in a rubbermaid tub with a lid in the event that they explode sending sharp shards of glass and beer everywhere.
 
Tabb said:
I bottle conditioned into a one liter Growler. It had a swing top. Maybe his growlers have those on them.
It's been sitting for about a month now with a couple of 12 oz bottles and no issues.

Good point, I didn't think of swing top growlers. I was just envisioning screw tops.
 
Appreciate the input, but I am seeing mixed feedback on this in the forum..

Some people are idiots, some folks like to play Russian Roulette....some folks just like to stir the pot....does that mean they're right?

For every guy that says they do it, we have 2-3 guys who posts threads like "Growler goes Boom"

They're NOT MADE TO HOLD CABONATING BEER. Carbonating beer and carbonated beer are not the same.

Even Northern Brewer says so....

This is direct from northern brewer website:
Standard issue 64 oz liquid libation transport vessel for the Civilian Brewing Division. This growler features a blank white space for adding in details on the beer inside and date bottled; using a dry-erase marker allows you to change it at any time. Takes a #6 stopper or a 38 mm screw cap. Pressure capable to 2.4 volumes of co2, not recommended for highly carbonated beers. Avoid bottle carbonating or priming with these growlers, as an unintentionally high level of carbonation could cause the glass to break.
Civilian Brewing Division Growler : Northern Brewer

I would hate to see you have a mess.

There's always a few who say they have no problem, but folks also have sex without condoms- Or still smoke, despite knowing its risks.

To carb a beer whether or not is is done naturally or with co2 you are forcing the gas into the solution. The pressure builds up, then there's a point where either the bottle fails or the co2, seeking the path of least resistance, forces itself into solution. You could call it a peak point, where there is a lot of pressure in the bottle, both already in solution and in the headspace trying to go into the solution, eventually it balances out and the beer is carbed.

Beer bottles, champagne bottles and kegs are rated with a higher psi/volume of co2 than wine bottles and growlers.

Already carbed and kegged beer is at a stable volume of co2 which is below the volume that growlers and winebottles are rated at. The FORCING of the co2 already happened. Why do you think kegs are made of metal and very very strong? To handle the pressure.

Our Buddy Rukus did this right up.

This is because during carbing, the pressure can go above 30 or 40 PSI. I have a thread in the cider forum where I did several tests bottle carbing sweet hard cider. There is allot of data there if your interested.

I have a bottle with a pressure gauge on it. I recorded pressures during the carbing process. This is how the data was generated. I also recorded pressures while pasteurizing the cider.

I recently bottled some lager I made. I also filled my gauge bottle and my lower pressure gauge bottle pegged at 35 PSI as that was the limit of the gauge. It probably ended up in the 40's, but no way to tell for sure.


When we bottle condition beer, we are really simulating force carbing like the keg folks do. We cause a ferment by adding sugar. This creates a high pressure in the bottle. CO2 doesn't like to dissolve in a warm liquid. We then put some bottles in the fridge. The temperature of the liquid drops and the CO2 then begins to dissolve in the liquid.

It seems to take several days at fridge temperatures for the CO2 to fully saturate the liquid for a maximum saturation for that liquid temperature.

While the CO2 is moving into the liquid, the pressure slowly drops. I've monitored this process as well with the pressure gauge.

Pressures go way higher than folks think while bottle conditioning. In the following data, I carbed sweet hard cider and stopped the carbing and then pasteurized the cider when the bottle was at 22 PSI. My Lager went above 35 PSI. The data doesn't show the extremes the pressure rises with beer as I stopped the cider at 22 PSI, but it would have continued if i hadn't stopped it.

The gauge bottle has a nice side effect, it tells you when your bottles are conditioned as the pressure rise stops. I then throw them in the Fridge to cold condition for several days before I open. The gauge also tells you when they are carbed as the pressure drop stops. Pretty basic really.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f32/bottle-carbing-idea-final-data-review-205862/

PressureTest-1.jpg

No, when you bottle condition, the slight fermentation we cause by adding priming sugar just builds pressure up in the bottle. The pressures seem to go up into the 30's and 40's PSI from what I've seen.

The CO2 doesn't really move into the liquid until the temperature drops. Some CO2 may, but not the majority of it. CO2 doesn't dissolve into solution until a lower temperature.

This is really what we do when we force carb in a keg. We raise the pressure up when the beer is cold. The CO2 moves into the solution. The tap pressure is lowered for proper delivery and the beer either sets for cold aging, or it is consumed at that time.

What you would see with the pressure gauge (if you use one bigger than my first bottle had. Should use a 100 PSI Gauge) is that the pressure climbs over time and will level off.

Once the pressure levels off, that means all of the priming sugar has been used up by the yeast. Next, you put them into the fridge. You will see the pressure drop over several days. Eventually, it also will level off. I like to let them sit for a few more days after that, but really if the pressure stops dropping, all of the CO2 that can be dissolved at that temperature has been achieved.
.

I think it goes down to this.....is it worth playing Russian Roulette with your money and the time you spent bringing your brew along from grain to bottling day???

*shrug*
 
DirtyDirty said:
First of all, you cannot bottle condition in growlers.

Yes you can, I have done it with absolutely no problems in the past. I used flip top style growlers, there is absolutely no difference (other than their size) between doing this and using grolsch bottles.
 
You can carbonate in flip top style growlers just fine, there is absolutely nothing wrong with this practice.

I have moved away from doing this though, for the simple reason that in the off chance something did go wrong, my flip top growlers are much more difficult to replace than a 22oz bomber bottle.
 
Yes you can, I have done it with absolutely no problems in the past. I used flip top style growlers, there is absolutely no difference (other than their size) between doing this and using grolsch bottles.

But THOSE are different from a standard growler you get at a brewpub...Like you said, those are like grolsh bottles, they're thicker and have a flip top which hold the lid on....Big difference from a thinner walled twist on growler.

Though at 30 or more bucks a pop for those fancy smancy growlers, I sure as hell wouldn't do in there either. I'd hate to have one of those blow.
 
I've never had a problem with conditioning in a growler. The glass is plenty thick. The cap is the weak spot. Don't do it if you are not comfortable with it. Again I've never had a problem, but the highest pressure I have primed in them is about 2.5 volumes. I suppose if you condition a hefe or something super carbed it could be an issue. It also has to do with how well the glass been treated or mishandled. That goes for all bottles.
 
Yes you can, I have done it with absolutely no problems in the past. I used flip top style growlers, there is absolutely no difference (other than their size) between doing this and using grolsch bottles.

Like I just said, I was referring to screw top growlers.
 
Thanks for the quick responses.. I've got plenty of 12 and 22 oz bottles. I will go that route. Hate to ruin a good batch of beer and have to clean the basement...:)

Cheers...

ps. Been doing a lot of investigating of kegging systems and hope to go in that route very soon!
 
Yeah, I tend to restrict my experimentation on recipes. The risk there is new flavors, not lost beer.
 
Thanks for the quick responses.. I've got plenty of 12 and 22 oz bottles. I will go that route. Hate to ruin a good batch of beer and have to clean the basement...:)

Cheers...

ps. Been doing a lot of investigating of kegging systems and hope to go in that route very soon!

Good call. If you start kegging, you will have a great use for those growlers. They work great for storing already carbed beer. I used to mess with a bottle filler attachment to my keg when filling growlers.

Now I just turn the pressure down and dispense from tap directly into the growler. Just tip the growler on it's side to avoid the drop to the bottom. Very little foam and easy-peasy. You can bring the growlers to events or for weekend trips.
 
Interesting. The only issue I've had with bottle conditioned growlers is having to drink the entire thing, which isn't really a bad thing. Funny too, considering when I run out of room in my keg I grab a growler and just throw some corn sugar straight in and shake it, hahaha. I guess I'll stop doing that....
 
But THOSE are different from a standard growler you get at a brewpub...Like you said, those are like grolsh bottles, they're thicker and have a flip top which hold the lid on....Big difference from a thinner walled twist on growler.

Though at 30 or more bucks a pop for those fancy smancy growlers, I sure as hell wouldn't do in there either. I'd hate to have one of those blow.

For what it's worth, one of the flip tops came from a very well known brew pub. But since I don't live anywhere near the victory brewery/brew-pub, and don't have any plans on re-visiting anytime soon, replacing it would be a major *****. I hardly even use it to fill, just as a decorative piece.

I do have a 32 oz flip top growler from a local store that fills them, and since I no longer go to that store, I usually will fill it on bottling day and use that as my "test" bottle for carbonation at the 2 week point.
 
I love growlers for kegged beer. I fill mine up every weekend and goto the LHBS. Needless to say I am loved.
 
If you just want more beer in a bottle, you can always just use 2 liter plastic pop bottle, just be sure store it out of light since the plastic is clear. Then you don't even have to worrry about breaking the glass if you drop it. I bottle most of my beer in 500 ml brown A&W root beer bottles, and some in one liter tonic water bottles.
 
An update...
Since there are mixed messages on using 64 oz growlers for bottling, I decided to head to the source for more information. I spoke with a very knowledgeable person at Saxco Pacific Coast Co. They are the leading distributors for numerous glass manufacturers (beer and wine bottles) worldwide, including the two premier glass manufacturers in America and abroad, Owens-Illinois Inc. and Gobain Containers. He said there is only one 64 oz growler that will work, and it is made by Owen-Illinois. You can tell it is an OI bottle when you see an OI at the bottom of the bottle as it is sitting upright on a table. But he said there is even an issue in using these bottles because of the lack of a good available screw cap. The growler will hold carbonation for awhile, but will eventually loose it. Nothing beat a bottle cap!

Hopes this helps!
 
I also have heard not to carbonate in growlers, but it seems that it would be a good way to get away from so much bottling. I am going to try it but i am going to use these caps i found. http://www.store.homebrew4less.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BPTAPPRCAP&variation= and i plan on starting out with about 1 1/4 teaspoons of table sugar to prime them and see how it goes from there.. i know they spelled pressure wrong but with the relief valves maybe it will stop to growler bomb problem....just a thought. ill post my results when i get done
 
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