Pin-lock vs. ball-lock? What's the difference?

[Puddlethumper]

What are the differences between pin-lock and ball-lock keg systems? Parts easier to find? Cheaper? Easier to clean and maintain? Does it make any difference other than size?

Can you mix keg styles in your kegerator by simply using different fittings on the ends of the supply lines?

I'm considering kegging after a year of bottling my beer. Right now I'm reading everything I can find on kegging as I'm trying to get up to speed with the whole process before I jump in. And I'd like to buy the right stuff the first time, if possible.

Thanks for any comments on this.

 

[GTaylor]

Pin locks are shorter and fatter than ball locks, parts are easy to find for either, pin locks are usually cheaper and they are both stainless so cleaning is same.

You can mix styles easier with MFL fittings on the end of your lines.

I made the move about a year ago and it has been great, so much easier to fill one big bottle than 50 little ones and all it takes to get a glass is to pull a handle.

 

[count2infinity]

Both are fine. I started buying kegging equipment after my first batch. Buying slowly over the course of 3 months made it seem like not as much money (probably just fooling myself there). I have 2 kegs currently tapped and room for one more that is currently fermenting. I love it. Mine are pinlocks, but that was just because they were cheaper and I got a good deal on them.

 

[JuanMoore]

Many pinlock kegs don't have a manual pressure relief valve in the lid, so you have to push on the gas post poppet to purge. Pin lock connections are impossible to interchange, which is nice, but they also stick up higher, somewhat negating the effective height difference. Pin locks can be converted to ball locks, and there are several vendors selling these. This is a good option if you have limited height in your serving fridge/freezer because you get the shorter kegs and the shorter disconnects.

You certainly can use both types in your system, and many people do, but it's generally easier to stick with one type of fitting. If you do decide to use both, I suggest getting the MFL style QD's rather than the barbed for all of them, that way you can switch your beer and gas lines between the different fittings quickly and easily.

 

[Puddlethumper]

So I'm trying to figure out where to buy my kegs and which ones to buy. I can fit 3 pin locks or 4 ball locks into my keezer. So there's a size difference...OK

A google search for ball-lock kegs turns up a whole bunch of what appears to be pin-locks that have been converted to ball-lock. That may help with plumbing but it doesn't help the size issue.

Is there an easy way to tell which kegs are narrower and taller (original ball-lock) just by looking at their picture on the internet?

 

[LandoLincoln]

So I'm trying to figure out where to buy my kegs and which ones to buy. I can fit 3 pin locks or 4 ball locks into my keezer. So there's a size difference...OK

A google search for ball-lock kegs turns up a whole bunch of what appears to be pin-locks that have been converted to ball-lock. That may help with plumbing but it doesn't help the size issue.

Is there an easy way to tell which kegs are narrower and taller (original ball-lock) just by looking at their picture on the internet?

Nope.

 

[JuanMoore]

So I'm trying to figure out where to buy my kegs and which ones to buy. I can fit 3 pin locks or 4 ball locks into my keezer. So there's a size difference...OK

A google search for ball-lock kegs turns up a whole bunch of what appears to be pin-locks that have been converted to ball-lock. That may help with plumbing but it doesn't help the size issue.

Is there an easy way to tell which kegs are narrower and taller (original ball-lock) just by looking at their picture on the internet?

The post and handle locations can be a giveaway. It's not 100% foolproof, but it works the vast majority of the time. Of course that only helps when the picture shows enough of the keg that you can see the post/handle locations.

 

[Puddlethumper]

The post and handle locations can be a giveaway. It's not 100% foolproof, but it works the vast majority of the time. Of course that only helps when the picture shows enough of the keg that you can see the post/handle locations.

That is very helpful! Thanks!

 

[Puddlethumper]

So I ordered some kegs and they showed up today. They look to be in pretty good shape but the pressure relief is different than the ones I'm seeing on most of the other keg pictures. There is no ring to pull. I'm sure these are common but I have no idea how to properly relieve the pressure with these. And are these good kegs? Am I going to be faced with replacing the lids at some point to update them?

 

[JuanMoore]

Those lids were common to pin locks, and the PRV doesn't have a manual release. They simply vent if the pressure exceeds the maximum they're set for. To purge you can simply press down on the gas poppet with something. You can also buy a little tool that you push down on the gas post fitting that will bleed pressure.

 

[Puddlethumper]

Thanks. If these showed up in an order for used kegs would you keep them or send them back?

 

[GTaylor]

Thanks. If these showed up in an order for used kegs would you keep them or send them back?

Keep them, they are converted from pin locks. I have several that look just like that, shorter and fatter with ball lock posts.

 

[Puddlethumper]

Keep them, they are converted from pin locks. I have several that look just like that, shorter and fatter with ball lock posts.

Thanks guys. I'm such a complete noob to this. I really appreciate your patience and your help.

 

[andraxm]

I'm just getting into kegging, and beginning a keezer build myself. There's a lot to take in. These forums are full of info

 

[Puddlethumper]

I'm just getting into kegging, and beginning a keezer build myself. There's a lot to take in. These forums are full of info

You've got that right! I've learned more on this forum than from about any other source.

How's your keezer build going?

 

[andraxm]

I'm still collecting parts. It's getting expensive, lol.
The cool thing is, my wife it's totally on board. She's been researching and designing ideas for the coffin. Can't wait to work out all the details and get started.

 

[Puddlethumper]

I'm still collecting parts. It's getting expensive, lol.
The cool thing is, my wife it's totally on board. She's been researching and designing ideas for the coffin. Can't wait to work out all the details and get started.

That's great! My wife likes the switch to kegging too. I think she was getting pretty sick of the storage issue for the bottles and the time it took for me to get the beer put up.

My kegs arrived Monday. Tuesday evening I got them all cleaned. I had two batches cold crashed and ready to keg. Got all 4 kegs cleaned and refurbished + put up 2 batches in just over 2 hours. (I'm liking this already.)

Now to try the beer when I get back home in a couple days!

 

[canvasback]

Is it expensive to convert to ball lock or would I be better off trying to trade them ? I have 6 ball lock and 4 pin . I'm just getting ready to start keggin.

 

[day_trippr]

Is it expensive to convert to ball lock or would I be better off trying to trade them ? I have 6 ball lock and 4 pin . I'm just getting ready to start keggin.

$10-15 per keg. If you look around you can find conversion kits for specific keg types and come in at the low end of the range, compared to buying the posts, poppets and risers (if used) individually...

Cheers!

 

[Puddlethumper]

I understand there's quite a difference in the tools required to work on ball-lock vs. pin-lock kegs. I can't vouch for this except that I went with ball-lock from the outset and found that a 7/8" deep well socket did everything I needed to do when disassembling the kegs for cleaning/sanitizing. Ball-locks are skinnier and taller than pin locks so they fit my keezer better.



Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

 

[day_trippr]

7/8" will work with some ball lock posts, but not all. Indeed, out of my 14 kegs, 10 of them sport 11/16" hex posts. For some reason I've always favored the smaller posts, but I couldn't pass up the deals that led to the four 7/8" models. I have been successful in avoiding the dreaded 12-point posts, however

Pin locks need 13/16" 12-point deep sockets with slots cut in them - which seems like a bit of a pita, but otoh you only need one and it'll work on every pin lock keg post ever made...

Cheers!

 

[max384]

I wanted to do pin lock, since there was less of a demand for them, which meant better prices... But ultimately I decided to go with ball lock because I could fit an extra keg into my kegerator if I went ball lock instead of pin lock.

 

[day_trippr]

[...]But ultimately I decided to go with ball lock because I could fit an extra keg into my kegerator if I went ball lock instead of pin lock.

Same here. Keezer #1 (RIP) barely fit six ball locks, pin locks would have cut it down to five. Keezer #2 can fit six pin locks but seven ball locks.

I like my kegs like I like my wimmin: tall and skinny...

Cheers!

 

[bajaedition]

I take pin locks and convert them to ball locks
I like the size of the pin lock but never have been a fan of the special tools needed to work them
anyway anyway you go it is just about personal preference

 

[Puddlethumper]

7/8" will work with some ball lock posts, but not all. Indeed, out of my 14 kegs, 10 of them sport 11/16" hex posts.

Thanks for that info! I just bought my first 4 kegs and all happened to take the same socket. Didn't realize that I had just gotten lucky they were all the same.

And, like others, I decided on ball locks because their size allows me to fit an extra keg into my keezer.

Cheers!