Pin Lock Kegs - Good Deal?

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Pin locks are awkward for four reasons:
  1. Wider base makes them harder to fit into tight spots
  2. The lack of a pressure relief valve
  3. Pins break off
  4. Special wrench required to clean
 
I got my setup there, it's the way to go in my opinion. Sure, ball locks are better due to the PRV, but it's not a big deal to disconnect the pin, and push the vent poppin with fingernail or wrench. Just know that depending on Keezer dimensions you might get one less keg to fit since they are shorter and fatter than ball locks. My Keezer fits 4 regardless.

The deal keg connection had for pinlocks was $35 each, and $7 flat shipping, plus free quick disconnects, with the NPR threads so very easy to switch if needed. That is better than you can find on Craig'slist, and they show up at your door. 3 kegs showed up at my doorstep for $112, with all new gaskets and quick disconnects.

My kegs were fine,one was missing the shorty vent tube, but kegconnection shipped me one a few days later to make it right.

I did a lot of homework when I built my Keezer, and found these guys and birdman to be kings in both value and service.
 
I got my setup there, it's the way to go in my opinion. Sure, ball locks are better due to the PRV, but it's not a big deal to disconnect the pin, and push the vent poppin with fingernail or wrench. Just know that depending on Keezer dimensions you might get one less keg to fit since they are shorter and fatter than ball locks. My Keezer fits 4 regardless.

The deal keg connection had for pinlocks was $35 each, and $7 flat shipping, plus free quick disconnects, with the NPR threads so very easy to switch if needed. That is better than you can find on Craig'slist, and they show up at your door. 3 kegs showed up at my doorstep for $112, with all new gaskets and quick disconnects.

My kegs were fine,one was missing the shorty vent tube, but kegconnection shipped me one a few days later to make it right.

I did a lot of homework when I built my Keezer, and found these guys and birdman to be kings in both value and service.

What size keezer do you have? I'm tempted to buy 4, although I may just have three full at a time.

So in the link I posted, do those look to have the static valve? What would be the benefit to pay $10 more for a 1" taller keg? Or perhaps it's just that these are in better shape?
 
Pin locks are awkward for four reasons:
  1. Wider base makes them harder to fit into tight spots
  2. The lack of a pressure relief valve
  3. Pins break off
  4. Special wrench required to clean

1. True
2. I have a 9/16 wrench that sits in the Keezer to push...if too much hassle, II think you can get prv lids for $15 or $20, I think you'd still be ahead.
3. Perhaps, but honestly at 35 just have an extra keg for spare parts.
4. I've been meaning to get the wrench, but just keep using an adjustable crescent wrench, which I find easy to maneuver around the pins.
 
Pin locks are awkward for four reasons:
  1. Wider base makes them harder to fit into tight spots
  2. The lack of a pressure relief valve
  3. Pins break off
  4. Special wrench required to clean

The pressure relief valve difference is that ball locks allow you to manually do it with a pull, while these you have to use a screwdriver and depress the gas poppit, right?

I wasn't aware that a special wrench was required to open the keg and clean it. What is that tool called?
 
Mines a 7.1 cu ft, fits 4 with a 2x6 collar. However if I would have gone ball locks, I would have needed a 2x8 cor 2x10 collar to get the last keg on the hump....but I might have been able to squeeze 5 since they are skinnier...if the skinnier keg is the draw, need to verify it's a true ball lock, there are many pin lock kegs out there which are converted to ball lock hardware.

If you think you need 3, you need at least 4, probably 5. I thought I needed 3 or 4, about to buy kegs 5 and 6.
 
I'm not knocking KegConnection...I have used them in the past with great satisfaction.

I mixed my initial purchases with both pin and ball locks from various sources. All of my pin lock kegs were converted to ball locks to standardize on interface. Truth be told, it is easier to know which post to fit with pin locks, that's probably why they were developed.

Do yourself a favor and buy one type, because you'll always want the one you don't have, just like Phillips head and flat blade screwdrivers. Especially when you start making jumpers.
 
Coupon Code ZYMURGY takes an additional 10% off site wide at Keg Connection.

Cheapest route is the Pin Lock B-Grade OP cited.

Next option is ***SPECIAL BUY*** These pin lock kegs are the exact same as our other pin lock kegs except that they are 1 inch taller. Dimensions are: 23" tall x 9" wide THESE ARE LIMIT 4 PER CUSTOMER DUE TO LIMITED QUANTITY BUT IF YOU BUY 4, IT WILL MAKE YOUR 4 PACK ONLY $99.99!***

I have ball locks, but these are some great deals if the kegs are in good working order.
 
Coupon Code ZYMURGY takes an additional 10% off site wide at Keg Connection.

Cheapest route is the Pin Lock B-Grade OP cited.

Next option is ***SPECIAL BUY*** These pin lock kegs are the exact same as our other pin lock kegs except that they are 1 inch taller. Dimensions are: 23" tall x 9" wide THESE ARE LIMIT 4 PER CUSTOMER DUE TO LIMITED QUANTITY BUT IF YOU BUY 4, IT WILL MAKE YOUR 4 PACK ONLY $99.99!***

I have ball locks, but these are some great deals if the kegs are in good working order.

That was part of my initial post; aside from the 1" taller kegs, what else could be the difference between the two?
 
Pin locks are awkward for four reasons:
  1. Wider base makes them harder to fit into tight spots
  2. The lack of a pressure relief valve
  3. Pins break off
  4. Special wrench required to clean

  1. True, but whether this matters depends on your setup. If you are height constrained pin locks may be better since they are shorter.
  2. Some have PRV, some don't. (I have both). Depressing the gas poppet with your finger is not hard, or you can just grab a spare gas QD to do it.
  3. Never heard of this or had a problem with it, over a dozen kegs and several years.
  4. True, you need a $15 socket to take the posts off.

Pin locks do have some disadvantages but they are regularly $20+ cheaper per keg which can really add up.

Plus I like having liquid and gas sockets that are different, makes it impossible to mix them up.
 
I bought 6 with the disconnects and O-rings included for $35 each(good deal) https://www.kegconnection.com/pin-l...-keg-or-firestone-5-gallon-for-homebrew-soda/ pin locks are fine if you don't mind a little harder to remove posts. And how often to you pull them? I go 5-6 fills before I break the posts down for cleaning. When I clean beer lines I use the kegs to hold the BLC, that flushes the post pretty well so just need to get build up every so often.
 
I bought 6 with the disconnects and O-rings included for $35 each(good deal) https://www.kegconnection.com/pin-l...-keg-or-firestone-5-gallon-for-homebrew-soda/ pin locks are fine if you don't mind a little harder to remove posts. And how often to you pull them? I go 5-6 fills before I break the posts down for cleaning. When I clean beer lines I use the kegs to hold the BLC, that flushes the post pretty well so just need to get build up every so often.

It looks like the quick disconnects included make the kegs come out to be about $25 a piece, considering the disconnects are about $40 for 4. I might go this route. So it's the threading that makes it a quick disconnect?
 
That was part of my initial post; aside from the 1" taller kegs, what else could be the difference between the two?
It looks like the 4-pack of 23" tall pin locks are not B grade, so they may be in better shape. That would be my recommendation, assuming you can handle the 23" height. Like I said earlier, I have ball locks, which are 25 x 8.5. From a Google search, it seems that the standard for pin locks is the 23 x 9 "tall" size. While I and most people prefer ball locks for reasons already mentioned, if you can handle the pin lock dimensions and lack of PRV, then this is a hell of a deal worth considering.
 
No I am talking about unscrewing the posts from the keg for a deep clean. You don't need to do it every fill. Some go a long time in between cleaning the post internals. The quick disconnect is the push it down and twist it on the post to lock it down... ball locks have a sleeve like an air tool that you pull up then slide the disconnect over the post.

Couldn't pass up the price and ordered 4 more kegs! Makes 10, I should be set for some long aging beers!

It looks like the quick disconnects included make the kegs come out to be about $25 a piece, considering the disconnects are about $40 for 4. I might go this route. So it's the threading that makes it a quick disconnect?
 
the only diff that i had issues with at first was the pressure valve. but my ball lock lids fit my PL, so its no longer an issue, i just rotate the lids.
 
I got another too. Thanks for the post. I have 2 now, but I don't drink beer every day and it takes time to kill 5g on my own lol. The second will be for aging beers.

Oh, and I don't think I've ever took off my posts to clean in all the years I've had one lol. I guess it's time, or I'll just keep running cleaner and star San through it like I normally do under pressure lol.

And ps, my local store sells lids with the valve cheap if ever wanted to replace one
 
Pin locks are awkward for four reasons:
  1. Wider base makes them harder to fit into tight spots
  2. The lack of a pressure relief valve
  3. Pins break off
  4. Special wrench required to clean
Much shorter height makes them easier to fit in some coolers and kegerators.
There is a pressure relief for over pressure; burping the keg is acomplished on the gas side with a cheap platic tool, a fingernail or screwdriver.
Breaking pins is rare or non-existant.
Gas and beer are keyed so you don't get it wrong.
They are cheaper and more available.
You can make your own tool easily from a spark plug wrench. Price savings on one used keg will pay for a tool.

Seriously, there are pluses and minuses to everything. For many, pin locks may be a better solution.
 
I find ball locks and pin locks to be equally easy to use. I have a good mix, though I'm probably around 60 pin locks and 30 ball locks at this point.

I made my own pin lock tool using the correct socket and a dremel to cut the socket for the pins.

I've never broken off a pin before, but I have definitely put the wrong ball lock disconnect on the wrong post multiple times.

For me, I always bought whatever was the best deal I could find. It just so happened that most of the time, they were pin lock kegs.

If you decide to get a mix of kegs, you may also want to consider moving towards John Guest fittings. It is what I use exclusively now, and it makes changing disconnects a cinch.
 
I find ball locks and pin locks to be equally easy to use. I have a good mix, though I'm probably around 60 pin locks and 30 ball locks at this point.

I made my own pin lock tool using the correct socket and a dremel to cut the socket for the pins.

I've never broken off a pin before, but I have definitely put the wrong ball lock disconnect on the wrong post multiple times.

For me, I always bought whatever was the best deal I could find. It just so happened that most of the time, they were pin lock kegs.

If you decide to get a mix of kegs, you may also want to consider moving towards John Guest fittings. It is what I use exclusively now, and it makes changing disconnects a cinch.
Wait, you have 90 kegs?!?
 
Wait, you have 90 kegs?!?

Yup, for a number of years I was over 100. I sold off a number to fund my faucet upgrade a year and a half ago though (I updated all 14 of my faucets to Perlick 650ss faucets, added John Guest connectors to the shanks, and changed out the tubing for Bev Seal Ultra and also John guest adapters onto my disconnects. I also budgeted to make all stainless direct keg serving setups using two more 650ss faucets, an adapter by chi company and stainless pin lock and ball lock disconnects).

I have over 80 kegs in the walk-in cooler, but I do need to kull them, as many of them need to be dumped at this point. My oldest beer is from 2007, a barleywine, and my oldest mead is from 2006.

I also live in the Atlanta area, so let me know if you want to stop by sometime!
 
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