PID Controlled Digital SSR Power Regulator

[jstebell]

Hello all. So I am in the process of purchasing one of the Brewha BIAC and don't want to for over the 550$ for there brew controller and the 150 or so for the ETC. All it is a Digital SSR Power Regulator seen here

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=444

Now so to my question is there any way I can incorporate this into my current PID controller for my current EHERMS controller?
If so this would likely save me about 600$ the reason why I want to use the regulator is so I can reduce the power to the element during the mash to prevent scorching and to also regulate fermentation temps you can also use it to control the boil as well. It seems that highgravitybrew.com builds the controller I want to build. But it is also 500+ dollars. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers!

 

[Vesteroid]

Easiest thing I could say to do is to look at kals design and just alter it for one element and one pid.

Its actually easy once you stare at it for a few minutes to see how they all connect and the power flows.

 

[jstebell]

Thanks I will check that out. I wasn't aware that he ran the SSR Regulator.

 

[jstebell]

I was on able to find the regulator on kals build. If anyone could provide a wiring diagram it would be a great help
My biggest questions is would the reg. go after the PID then to the SSR or after the SSR to reduce the power to the element. Thanks

 

[2bluewagons]

I think what you are trying to build is what BobbyM recommended to me in this thread here, using multiple SSRs in series. I didn't end up taking his advice, and stuck with my intent for switching between the PID and DSPR1 controlling both of my elements. I just finished my controller but have yet to test it out.

You might be asking for something completely different though it's difficult to tell from the lack or misuse of punctuation in your posts I find it confusing why do you do that.

 

[Brumateur]

I was on able to find the regulator on kals build. If anyone could provide a wiring diagram it would be a great help
My biggest questions is would the reg. go after the PID then to the SSR or after the SSR to reduce the power to the element. Thanks

Unfortunately you can't simply wire PID and power regulator to control one SSR simultaneously. You either need some logic circuit or have 2 SSR wired inline as was mentioned above.

 

[jstebell]

Maybe it's my stellar GA education or I don't give a crap about punctuation? Was that the right symbols to use there? Thanks.

 

[Bobby_M]

I still recommend running two SSRs in series for this purpose.

 

[inkbird]

Thanks I will check that out. I wasn't aware that he ran the SSR Regulator.

Here are some PID controllers which are high quality and cheap. You can considering it. If you want pre-wired controller, you can also consider ITC-308, but it is on/off controller, but not PID controlloer

US site.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aag/main?i...tocol=current&seller=A1RUFFFCQ74BCW&sshmPath=

EU Site.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aag/main...T4Y&isAmazonFulfilled=0&seller=A1MZXMWDS73ECR

 

[broncosaurs]

You can put in a double pole double throw switch to control which type of control you want the SSR to see. The manual for the alburn controller shows the wiring to do just this. So you can run the PID or the burst fire. To run the PID with the burst fire, ie run the PID with only 50% output on the heater does cause some problems. First, the tuning on the PID with different loads (RIM, HLT) will be very different. Second, the different heater outputs using the burst fire will also change the tuning of the PID. It would be very hard to ever get it tuned even close. If you want to try get a PID controller with a relay output, wire the output of the burst fire controller (+) to the relay input, the relay output to the SSR (+), SSR output (-) back to the burst fire controller input (-).:cross:

Brad

 

[jstebell]

Thank you all.

 

[Bobby_M]

While using PWM inline with a PID controlled SSR would definitely screw with the PID tuning, it's not as problematic as it sounds. The way you get away with it is to autotune with the PWM at approximately the power output you would normally set it to. With a 5500 watt element in a BIAB, I'd run the PWM at about 20% during mashing. Auto tune there. When you run the boil, set the PID to a temp like 300F and then use the PWM to dial in boil intensity. At this stage, the PID's tune is completely irrelevant.

 

[brew-in]

check out this controller....nice setup and good price....I have no affiliation and have never seen one....just like the functionality for the price:

http://www.jaggerbushbrewing.com/BBR-10_p_63.html

 

[broncosaurs]

Bobby, the way I understand the setup is

1) Run the PID loop with the PWM at 100% to heat mash water to mash in temperature.
2) After mash in, run the PID with the PWM at, say, 20% to hold mash temp.
3) Boil with the PWM at needed output.

Step 1 and 2 would need very different tuning. I think with some work the PID could be tuned where the heating the mash water would be a little sluggish and the HERMs loop a little aggressive. I would just use two PID temp controllers, one PWM controller. For $50 and make it real simple seems worth it to me.

 

[Bobby_M]

I don't have a lot of experience trying to run a single PID tuning on a bunch of different loads or power outputs but I do have a single PID that can run a 5500 or 1375 watt element (voltage selection), I have noticed that the autotune at 5500 watts hits the Strike temp quickly with very little overshoot and also runs the mash recirc process at 1375 watts just fine because it's only making minor adjustments of 1 degree or so. I'm guessing it would be more of a struggle if I were trying to go nuts with fast step mash moves.