Options for Heating Elements

[CurtHagenlocher]

It looks like my poor planning skills have bested me in a spectacular fashion. I have ordered a set of 9.3 gallon kettles from Stout Tanks with the intent to use electric heating. The kettles have a 12.75" diameter. I had expected to use the Camco ultra-low density elements but hadn't realized that they're too big for a tank less than 15" in diameter. Even the low-density elements say they need a 13" diameter tank (though I suspect they might work). It looks like bending the elements without damaging them may not realistic.

What are my options?

 

[Noidios]

Can you add a nipple or a length of pipe that allows the element to sit further outside the kettle?

 

[CurtHagenlocher]

Interesting idea! The heating element port is tri-clover, so using something like a 6" tri-clover extension could make things work physically. I'd be worried, though, about the lack of circulation in the extension tube. Wouldn't that create the risk of scorching there?

Is there any reason not to use a shorter LWD element in the HLT?

 

[wilserbrewer]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032UXRI2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Pricey but short.

 

[CurtHagenlocher]

The Hayward element could be good for the HLT. Do you know its length? And does it fit a standard water heater thread/socket?

I realize belatedly that there's nothing magical about particular elements with respect to power-density. It's a simple equation of total power / total surface area -- which in practical terms just means that the element needs to be long. So unless there oddly shaped (or shapeable) elements available, the extension tube is looking like my best bet for the boil kettle.

 

[IslandLizard]

Interesting idea! The heating element port is tri-clover, so using something like a 6" tri-clover extension could make things work physically. I'd be worried, though, about the lack of circulation in the extension tube. Wouldn't that create the risk of scorching there?

Is there any reason not to use a shorter LWD element in the HLT?

You're right, the wattage per surface area determines an element's heat density.

6" extension will give more potential overheating problems than the 1.5-2" setback you really need. Someone here may have experience with using a setback extension tube already. You cannot be the first one.
Most RIMS tubes I've looked at have a dead space at the element's bottom. But they don't get heated to the max for extended periods, except for mashout. And those are typically not ULWD, just LWD (folded over).

For a 10 gallon tank, 12.75" is quite narrow. Why do they make them that way? To reduce boil-off?

For your HLT, the element's heat density is immaterial, you're just heating water. You want the maximum heat as quickly as possible to have fast recovery and reduce lag time.

 

[CurtHagenlocher]

The reason I said 6" extension tube was because that's the shortest length carried by Brewer's Hardware. Some quick searches didn't find anything shorter, so that may put me into the realm of custom work. Alternatively, I could use a tee and close off the third port -- that would probably be shorter. The Brewer's Hardware site doesn't give dimensions for their tees, but I'll email and ask.

I can't speak for why the 10-gallon Stout tanks have those dimensions.

 

[IslandLizard]

A Tee together with the Triclamp screw-in adapter my give you just the right amount of extension.

One thing to watch out for is that the ULWD with all its curves can be "snaked" through the extension you want to use. It's one thing to snake it through the skinny kettle bulkhead, but a straight pipe could be just too long and restrictive.

 

[wilserbrewer]

For the HLT, I would attempt bending an element to fit...HWD elements are cheap so not much loss if it doesnt work out.

 

[CurtHagenlocher]

I'm perfectly happy with 4500W given that it's a 10 gallon system and that I'm building a "back-to-back" control panel capable of running both elements at the same time. So for the HLT, I think I'll use the Camco 02642/02643 HWD element. It fits a 9" tank and should therefore have clearance to spare. For the boil kettle, I'm looking at the Camco 02922/02923 ULWD element instead of a ripple element. Judging from the picture, I should be able to fit it into the extension, given a diameter of 1.5". And without having any of the physical parts in my possession -- well, I won't be able to check until I actually get them.