Hi Catt - I think I was reading another post where you were talking about doing this - (if it wasn't you then it's scary how similar the reply is!) It was saying to use 3 of these regs for the burners, connected to the rail and then the rail end connects to a high pressure fixed regulator before the tank? Though there was some talk of using the 10" burners for the HLT and BK and then 6" for the MT. Any benefit to doing so? Also, what pressure regulator for the high pressure would you use?
Thanks!
That may well have been me as I have suggested this configuration more than once IIRC. First off, the high pressure vs low pressure designations can certainly be confusing, but generally when referring to propane, low pressure is about 1 psi or less and high pressure is anything above that. The best of both worlds can be had by using a variable pressure regulator. These are available in 0-5, 0-10, 0-15, 0-30, 0-60 psi versions that I have seen. The 0-15 psi models would be suitable for most of the burners we typically encounter, but if running multiple burners there may be situations where a higher pressure unit would be preferable. I'm not an expert on this stuff, so keep that in mind.
There are two reasons that I suggest using separate variable pressure regulators for each burner. First, the adjustable regulators server a dual purpose in that they regulate the pressure and they also serve as the control valve for flame level. IOW, you dial in the flame level with the control knob on the regulator and there is no separate needle valve as there is with a fixed pressure regulator. The variable pressure feature provides good flame control at any level. Secondly, using individual regulators prevents adjustments to one burner from interfering with the others. This probably isn't a big deal, but more of an incidental benefit. It's unlikely that all three burners will be running full blast. Usually you will heat the strike and sparge water with the BK burner off and when you are using the BK burner the HLT will not be running full bore and the MT burner will probably be turned off completely at that point.
I think you could eliminate the fourth high pressure regulator at the tank if you could figure out a way to make the connection from the tank to the gas rail or manifold. It would probably be prudent to have an emergency shutoff valve at the connection to the manifold for added safety. It would probably also be a good idea safety wise to shut the tank valve off first when shutting down for the session in order to vacate the gas line and rail or manifold.
Agri-Supply is about the cheapest source I've seen for burners and regulators. Their web page can be challenging to navigate and depending on who you talk to if you call them, the staff helpfulness can be highly variable.
Here's the link to the 6" burner, but it is comes with a low pressure orifice which you will need to replace with a high pressure one:
http://www.agrisupply.com/burner-cast-low-presure-multi-hole-/p/40282/cn/5400001/
Here's one version of a 0-15 psi regulator:
http://www.agrisupply.com/product.asp?pn=50678&sid=&eid=
I would call the suppliers when ordering the regulators to confirm the specs, type of connectors, pressure range etc. There are a number of different styles. You will also want to get a corresponding high pressure orifice that will work with your burner/regulator combo and the proper tank connector etc.
Here's a couple of more links that may lead you to what you need, but you will probably have to call and discuss the application with someone and they may or may not be willing or able to guide you. That stuff can be very hit or miss sometimes:
http://www.cajunshoppe.com/regulator.htm
http://www.flameengineering.com/Parts_Accessories.html
http://www.tejassmokers.com/index.html