Oh crap, my HERMS system is dead!

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ylpaul2000

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The transformer coil on my contactor just gave up the ghost (died), and I have a big brew day scheduled tomorrow! Does any one know if I could temporarily substitute a DPDT switch in place of the contactor until I can get the part shipped to me? It would give me an the ability to turn off my system quickly in the event of an emergency right?
 
How many amps are you pulling? I know Lowes/Home Depot sell a 30A DPDT switch in the stores.

And yes, it would give you the ability to turn off power to whatever leg of the system it is in front of, but the difference is that you would be touching a switch with 240v/30A (or whatever voltage your system is running on) instead of the switch your contactor is tied to which is likely 120v and just a few amps.
 
My heat stick draws just over 22 amps at 240v. Wouldn't the dual pole allow me to turn off both legs at the same time?
 
At our local brew club I spoke to a few folks who have been electric brewing for a while(20 years).

I was told he's only ever ran simple a 15A light switch on one side of his 4500W element to control it on or off.
 
I was told he's only ever ran simple a 15A light switch on one side of his 4500W element to control it on or off.

lots of people do stupid stuff all the time. the dumbest ones are the people who encourage it.


assuming that is 240v and 4500w- its "only" 3A over the max current rating, which you can get away with sometimes. however, if your switch doesnt have exactly as much cooling ability as that guys does in his control panel, it could overheat or melt or start a fire... do you want to play around with house fire? or would you rather just spend the extra $5 and not possibly start a house fire?
 
audger said:
lots of people do stupid stuff all the time. the dumbest ones are the people who encourage it.

assuming that is 240v and 4500w- its "only" 3A over the max current rating, which you can get away with sometimes. however, if your switch doesnt have exactly as much cooling ability as that guys does in his control panel, it could overheat or melt or start a fire... do you want to play around with house fire? or would you rather just spend the extra $5 and not possibly start a house fire?

Agreed. Not only a fire threat but electrical as well. If its 240 he still has one hot leg when the switch is off. Potential Darwin nominee?

Op: the dpdt will work as a temp fix but be careful. As someone pointed out, there will be a lot more hazard handling the dpdt than your switched relay coil. Hope your brew goes well!
 
This has me worried as I plan to use a DPDT switch on my panel. I seem to recall it being suggested by PJ and others on the forum on multiple occasions. Obviously I will be meticulous when wiring it up, but is it something that I should be paranoid about touching every brew day? Will the switch be grounded to the metal control panel just in case it does becomes charged?
 
This has me worried as I plan to use a DPDT switch on my panel. I seem to recall it being suggested by PJ and others on the forum on multiple occasions. Obviously I will be meticulous when wiring it up, but is it something that I should be paranoid about touching every brew day? Will the switch be grounded to the metal control panel just in case it does becomes charged?

I guess it should be by mounting metal to metal (if your enclosure is metal and grounded). A quality switch will have a ground terminal.
 
I guess it should be by mounting metal to metal (if your enclosure is metal and grounded). A quality switch will have a ground terminal.

Yeah, I think my switch has a ground terminal actually now that you say that.

I am just rethinking whether it would be a better idea to go with a contactor. I dont want to have to pull the multimeter out everytime I turn the elements on/off.
 
Yeah, I think my switch has a ground terminal actually now that you say that.

I am just rethinking whether it would be a better idea to go with a contactor. I dont want to have to pull the multimeter out everytime I turn the elements on/off.

I personally prefer a contactor. There are low voltage coil options as well so you can make all your panel switching low voltage with the addtion a small transformer and maybe some relays. That's what I did with my HLT controller.
 
I bought a Kal style Power In Relay for use in my build that I realized I didn't need. It is DPDT 30A. I'd be willing to sell it to you since you are local, let me know if you would be interested, otherwise I'll probably throw it up on the classifieds.
 
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