16 points is a huge difference. Step mashing tends to increase efficiencies. Mine has gone up since adding it to my process . Was water volume and mash thickness the same as usual? And do you personally weigh the grain yourself?
92% efficiency! good for you man, i've never even sniffed those kind of numbers...
I brew on an SS brewtech 3v system with a brand new controller, Blickman rims with an SS brewtech mash ton. Water temps all checked out as accurate. My refractometer was in line with my Tilt when I filled the fermentor. If I were to add back the 20 minutes, would I do that on the first or second step?
Yea, I weigh and mill everything myself. The water volumes are almost a perfect 50/50 between the mash ton and sparge. 4.33 in the ton and 4.20 in the HLT
I would add it to both rests (10min each) personally. I agree with @Dgallo, 16 points is a lot. Most conversion happens really quickly. It’s probably something else in your process. Hard to say what. Do you check/confirm temps with a secondary thermometer? Anything else different between this and previous batches?
In general, Nelson Riwaka Citra is my top 2 combo. Might be my favorite all time
This is my next beer (plus strata) let us know how it goes
The only people adding absorbic acid in NEIPA are folks that have very little anti o2 practices. I’m not sure why anyone would had metasulphate or potassium Sorbate in a NEIPA. Both prevent microbe growth, brewers yeast included. But the yeast are already in the beer so it won’t prevent hop creep and there’s really no other benefit
In the mash about 3-5 grams.
Any idea if the thiols from Halio Gazer would fill in for the Nelson? Planning out a couple brew for HG.
I’m not keen on the science but I am pretty sure sulfites provide some level of defense from oxygen. For this purpose, they would be added after the yeast had done their job. I would imagine a good time would be during dry hopping, or at packaging. I agree you should definitely do your best to avoid it in the first place, but if effective, campden tablets would be cheap insurance.
That early in the process provide a layer of defense while in the keg? Or is that simply providing protection during the mash? You have any resources where I can read up on this a bit more?
That combo is on my list for another time! This time I'm looking to maximize my use of HBC 586.
I have not brewered with it myself but a guy in my club just shared a heliogizer NEIPA with us last meeting. The aroma was awesome from a distance but when you put your nose in the glass I genuinely thought it smelt like BO. The taste had a bit of bo in it too.
I know you aren't the only one in our club not a fan of the thiolized beers
. Though Anthony had one over the weekend that was more balanced, and one of the better thiolized beers that I've had.Any idea what they did to balance it? What hops or where in the process they used them?I know you aren't the only one in our club not a fan of the thiolized beers
Sounds like Cosmic Punch. My packet of Helio Gazer came inflated and reeked if sulfur. I made a starter and let it ferment out a little longer than usual. This plus waiting until the last second to pressurize prior to dry hopping gave good results for me.
I assume you are just using the powdered version? do you dissolve it ahead of time or just as powder with the dry hops? what's your dose per gallon?
I add 1 tablespoon of ascorbic acid powder to all my kegs before racking, and I swear it makes a difference, especially my hoppy beers. My beer appears to be brighter for longer. Even if it's anecdotal, it's cheap enough to continue to use it.
Thank you both.
I have no idea what ascorbic acid does for pH - I only adjust pH when mashing. Ascorbic acid has been quoted as a O2 scrubber (antioxidant). Many people claim it helps minimize oxidation, although some say it's an oxidizer, so there's that lol. Personally, I'll continue to use it until I experience oxidation. As for hoppy beer, such as a NEIPA, hops are extremely volatile and react to oxygen and stale quickly. I think it's less of a pH reaction vs hops go bad in the presence of O2, so the less the better.
yeah that's definitely the use case here, scrub O2. I get that. I'm just saying as it is an Acid just like the Lactic/phosphoric one might use in the mash (i do adjust my mash as well) it should reduce your beers pH. High hop loads can increase your pH and so I know a few on here have been adjusting post whirlpool to account for that. I think @secretlevel has done it recently.
How did you handle dry hopping and preventing O2 exposure?
Thanks, I have done the same. Seems to work fine. I don't use much AA but I do dissolve it in a little hot water first.
I have done this frequently just to save time on transfers. I've tried this for a ton of different styles with success. you can still crash yeast out then dry hop, but the only thing you really can't do is rouse the dry hops. Personally, i think the ability to rouse is key to dry hopping cold. I seem to have the best success when i'm dry hopping closer to 63/65, which could restart ferm. However, my earlier batches, before i started trying dry hopping cold, also used a straight dip tube with the janish filter on it (the one from utah biodiesel) so I was pulling beer from the bottom of the keg, through the dry hop. More recently, when doing colder dry hops, I've been using a top draw system. I'm not certain this wasn't a factor as well, adding to my perception that warmer was better back then.
