New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[bailey mountain brewer]

I have a new CF5 and am trying to dial in my process using a conical. Especially how the best way to handle soft crashing post ferment then DH. I am struggling with dumping all the yeast out, concerned about the hops sinking and how much rousting with co2 I need to do.

Would anyone be willing to PM me that is a spike conical user that is using these same neipa methods we all use in the thread. I would just like to here about how your process goes using these conicals to make NEIPA’s.

After fermentation I crash down into the 40s *f for atleast 36 hours. When dumping yeast you will have 2psi co2 running to keep pressure in there for the crash. The most important thing is to go as slow as possible. I do it in a few steps, it helps to have a sight glass, I open my valve one notch at a time and wait several seconds in between each notch until the I see movement in the sight glass. Once it starts to move I leave it at that spot for a while and let it drop out slowly, this avoids having the liquid "punch" through the trub/yeast. It took me numerous times to do a good job of this but as with most brewing processes patience is important. Once the liquid starts coming out to fast I shut the valve, go do something else for 20min to a half hour or longer and dump again with the same process. I dry hop all at one time but may split it into 2, and I dry hop at 50f for 2 days then crash down to 38f for a day or 2 depending on my schedule. Do a quick dump of the dry hops then keg. I also max out my fermenter for this style because I know I am going to take a lot of losses with dumps and whatnot. The spike diptube is a must as well.

 

[nick sekerak]

It depends on what yeast you’re using when it comes to soft crashing. Some will take their time, other’s won’t. It’s something you just need to pay attention to and maybe try different times and temperatures.

I’m sure just about everyone is using some sort of 1318 variant. It floccs pretty well. After ferment is done you can just set your temp to 55. Depending on how you’re cooling 24 hours is really all you need. Harvest yeast (reuse it, don’t dump it) and add hops. There’s plenty of info now that says 24 hours is all you need. Extraction happens really fast. Pretty sure the brewery that won alpha king and GABF for hazy double ipa last year removes hops after 24 hours. (Burke Gilman). You can leave for longer if you want or add another dose of hops. Now start crashing and wait maybe 48 and slowly dump again... then leave at 35-38 for a bit to condition then transfer.

The 2” dump valves on the spike fermenters are dumb. 400bbl fermenters only have 1.5” valves. If you can add pressure, there’s zero reason for 2”. I remove everything below the cone and just put a butterfly valve right at the bottom. No elbow, so sight glass, nothing. The whole surface to volume ratio made zero sense to be when there’s a 2” port on a 7g fermenter. Started when I was making lagers in them then just kept doing it for hoppy beers. In both cases you’ll want what’s siting in those 2” valves in contact with your beer.

Anyways there’s no reason to resuspend in my opinion but you want want to try ditching everything below the cone, especially if you’re going sightglass then elbow.

i have glycol so chilling from ferment temps to the 50’s is like 10 min. The batch I am doing now I held at 50F for 3 days. Sounds like that was not needed. I’ll try 24hrs next batch. I did harvest the yeast thought.

you have a good point on the 2”. I may have to switch. Right now my setup is cone-butterfly-sight glass-elbow-butterfly.

the main reason for this is to keep your hops above your cone, right?

 

[nick sekerak]

After fermentation I crash down into the 40s *f for atleast 36 hours. When dumping yeast you will have 2psi co2 running to keep pressure in there for the crash. The most important thing is to go as slow as possible. I do it in a few steps, it helps to have a sight glass, I open my valve one notch at a time and wait several seconds in between each notch until the I see movement in the sight glass. Once it starts to move I leave it at that spot for a while and let it drop out slowly, this avoids having the liquid "punch" through the trub/yeast. It took me numerous times to do a good job of this but as with most brewing processes patience is important. Once the liquid starts coming out to fast I shut the valve, go do something else for 20min to a half hour or longer and dump again with the same process. I dry hop all at one time but may split it into 2, and I dry hop at 50f for 2 days then crash down to 38f for a day or 2 depending on my schedule. Do a quick dump of the dry hops then keg. I also max out my fermenter for this style because I know I am going to take a lot of losses with dumps and whatnot. The spike diptube is a must as well.

I am doing the same exact thing you are doing. My yeast dumps start off very thick like paste then get to thin slurry but not clear. They turn to cloudy yeasty more beerish semi clear at the end. Just dumped yeast last night from my CF5 and it was 1/2 gallon. Mostly of the slurry mix. I did not do the 20 min break but that is a good idea. That probably would have helped. I feel like the first notch on my butterfly valve doesn’t do much, it gets it moving a bit. The second notch is where is see it start draining but it’s very very sensitive. From the middle to the end of the groove is like night and day. You move it a tad bit too far and it blows out. Is 1/2 gallon loss on a yeast dump normal or is that way too much?

also I am using a 2” TC with 1/2” barb fitting I attach a hose to.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

Well I do 15 gallon batches so my volumes are going to be different then yours, I typically do a gallon before dry hop and another half gallon before kegging. I start with 17.5 gallon to get 15 total in the end. That leaves a gallon of trub in the fermenter and I use the diptube to then get what I can. I fill my kegs by weight and last time I think I got 2 full kegs (42lbs) and the third came right up to 41lbs. In my opinion that's good for this style as it is very hard to get good transfers.

 

[eugles]

Going to jump on the cosmic punch train here...received order a day late as fedex goofed up to find the pouch fully inflated. I immediately threw it in the fridge, which stopped it from inflating more or popping, but I'm wondering if it is okie to use in an upcoming brew?

 

[ThatVideoKid]

Going to jump on the cosmic punch train here...received order a day late as fedex goofed up to find the pouch fully inflated. I immediately threw it in the fridge, which stopped it from inflating more or popping, but I'm wondering if it is okie to use in an upcoming brew?

Probably fine, just make a starter.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Going to jump on the cosmic punch train here...received order a day late as fedex goofed up to find the pouch fully inflated. I immediately threw it in the fridge, which stopped it from inflating more or popping, but I'm wondering if it is okie to use in an upcoming brew?

I have seen this before as well. About 2 months or so ago, I ordered two different liquid yeast packets from morebeer.com: Imperial Dry Hop and Imperial Juice. Both had their own separate chill packs in separate envelopes but both were packed in the same box with other things. When opening the box, one envelope was "fat" and the other not. After opening envelopes, the Juice was inflated big time but A24 wasn't. Both envelopes had cold packs that were barely cool, but not even room temp. So they traveled in the same environment yet this happened to one pack. So assuming they didn't pack and send me one that was already inflated (quite the possibility), not sure what causes this. Nevertheless, made a starter pretty quick and it worked out great with no issues. Had the same thing happen with my cosmic punch yeast and the starter looked great and fermented the beer with no issues as well.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

So today was keg day for my first NEIPA using cosmic punch. Columbus and cascade only on hot side (3oz cascade also used in the mash hops) and DH with the following schedule:

DH1: 1oz Citra LUPOMAX, 1oz Galaxy, 2oz moutere
DH2: 1oz Citra LUPOMAX, 3oz Nectaron

The hydro sample (tasting just the effect of hot side hops and cosmic punch) was very citrus and tropical. The citrus was more or less grapefruitiness. It also had some nice earthiness but was more complimentary after the citrus/tropical vibe. Assuming that was the Columbus which I love. Pitched at 68 and after 24hrs let it rise to ~71, then after about 3.5 days as it was slowing down I pushed it to 73. Finished by day 5 but let it sit at that temp till the hydro sample at day 7. FG was 1.015 (one of the few times my TILT was deadly accurate compared to hydrometer lol). Started soft crash day 8 to 50 and held for 36 hrs@50 degrees before letting it rise to ~53-54 for dry hopping. This was intended on just being citra, galaxy, moutere and the first DH was planned. All DH1 hops smelled fantastic, especially moutere. 24hrs later for the second dry hop, and the new pack of galaxy just smelled "OK" at best, so I decided to switch course given one of my fav combos thus far was exclusively Moutere and Nectaron. I ONLY had 13oz nectaron left and its out of stock but decided to use some anyways lol. Glad I did!

The pics are the force carbed sample from leftovers after kegging (need better lighting I know), but in general - I am stunned how fruity this is and aroma of force carbed sample is fantastic. Was wanting to make sure I get the passionfruit/tropical vibe for this and this nailed it. Some background earth, but honestly almost thinking need more earthiness to keep the depth of this beer because the passionfruit/tropical vibe is HUGE. For those who haven't used nectaron, its prob my fav hop these days and has awesome peach and tropical vibes with a lower NZ diesel character compared to Nelson or other "edgy" NZ hops. But it still has the NZ character. Its really a refined hop IMO. This beer is ready to drink NOW with zero conditioning needed to enjoy it, although I will take the week to carb it up and allow for some conditioning/aromas to work its magic anyways lol.

I do agree with @secretlevel in that I don't think that cosmic punch changes or gets in the way of the hop profile/flavor but it really seems to amplify the profile in general. In my case - its the passionfruit/tropical vibe. Definitely going to keep experimenting with the cosmic punch. I am a fan.

Poor indoor lighting, but will try to get a proper beer porn pic uploaded in about 7-10days when the keg is tapped.

 

[R.A.I.D]

They break up at the bottom of your fermenter, just as they would on top. For those who have the ability to removed the trub and yeast prior, you can rouse them with co2 or a gentle rocking. The problem is most homebrewers can’t dump their trub(myself included) so you really need to find the coldest temperature that will keep them in suspension for you. For me it’s about 57/58.

Last brew I went a little colder and ran 4 oz of the dryhop through a coffee gribder, very quick/roughly to see if it would help def seemed to help a little. I was worried it might add to cause some oxidation but I haven’t detected any. Next dryhop I’m going to try to do that to about 60% of the dryhop

I am going to try DH on top of the yeast cake this time. Like you used to do, @Dgallo. You have earlier considered coffie grinding a large part of the DH. Can you recommend this practice?
Also do you think the hop flavor is more intense after you switched to racking to a separate dry hop fermenter?

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Might be of interest to those with ASBC access, the effect of hop creep on beer flavour (or hop α/β-amylases on esters, higher alcohols, and aldehydes to be more precise)

https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/03610470.2021.1937453

 

[tld6008]

I've been getting away with using gravity for transfers since I don't have a pressure-rated fermenter quite yet. Keg posts always end up getting clogged if I ferment in those, even with a filter over my dip tube. Thing is, most pressure-rated fermenters are absolutely gigantic and won't fit into my fermentation fridge (kegerator). Well, except for Dgallo's fermonster setup. Maybe it's time …

Doesn't take much pressure to effect a transfer unless you are going uphill. I use 2 psi and none of my gear is pressure rated. I use glass carboys for fermenting and 2 psi won't even blow the 2 hole carboy cap off

 

[Dgallo]

I am going to try DH on top of the yeast cake this time. Like you used to do, @Dgallo. You have earlier considered coffie grinding a large part of the DH. Can you recommend this practice?
Also do you think the hop flavor is more intense after you switched to racking to a separate dry hop fermenter?

I only ended up doing the grinding one time. It turned out good but can’t say with actually made it better but they definitely floated better.

but yea dryhoping off the yeast definitely made a better beer as I can agitate the dryhops without resuspending yeast and trub

 

[secretlevel]

Some background earth, but honestly almost thinking need more earthiness to keep the depth of this beer because the passionfruit/tropical vibe is HUGE.

That looks awesome, I gotta order Motuere and finally give it a shot. Those NZ hops are on fire these days!

In regards to earthiness, this is going back to the subject of adding some CTZ in boil. I'm definitely going to be experimenting with that myself, but this is also what I love about Idaho 7. I actually got really nice black tea/dank weed character out of Idaho 7 just in whirlpool and dry hop. I scored well on that one in a comp because I think the judges really enjoyed a hint of something more familiar in an otherwise super tropical NEIPA.

PS. I did Hop Sensory training with Yakima Chief Hops yesterday and holy crap, Talus smelled like pure heaven. Big time navel orange, cherries and pineapple. Absolutely explosive.

 

[TheMadKing]

That looks awesome, I gotta order Motuere and finally give it a shot. Those NZ hops are on fire these days!

In regards to earthiness, this is going back to the subject of adding some CTZ in boil. I'm definitely going to be experimenting with that myself, but this is also what I love about Idaho 7. I actually got really nice black tea/dank weed character out of Idaho 7 just in whirlpool and dry hop. I scored well on that one in a comp because I think the judges really enjoyed a hint of something more familiar in an otherwise super tropical NEIPA.

PS. I did Hop Sensory training with Yakima Chief Hops yesterday and holy crap, Talus smelled like pure heaven. Big time navel orange, cherries and pineapple. Absolutely explosive.

I just tasted mine (recipe a couple pages back, lots of I7) last night and its super dank, but also orangy. I'm excited to see how it matures after a couple weeks cold!

 

[Dgallo]

So today was keg day for my first NEIPA using cosmic punch. Columbus and cascade only on hot side (3oz cascade also used in the mash hops) and DH with the following schedule:

DH1: 1oz Citra LUPOMAX, 1oz Galaxy, 2oz moutere
DH2: 1oz Citra LUPOMAX, 3oz Nectaron

The hydro sample (tasting just the effect of hot side hops and cosmic punch) was very citrus and tropical. The citrus was more or less grapefruitiness. It also had some nice earthiness but was more complimentary after the citrus/tropical vibe. Assuming that was the Columbus which I love. Pitched at 68 and after 24hrs let it rise to ~71, then after about 3.5 days as it was slowing down I pushed it to 73. Finished by day 5 but let it sit at that temp till the hydro sample at day 7. FG was 1.015 (one of the few times my TILT was deadly accurate compared to hydrometer lol). Started soft crash day 8 to 50 and held for 36 hrs@50 degrees before letting it rise to ~53-54 for dry hopping. This was intended on just being citra, galaxy, moutere and the first DH was planned. All DH1 hops smelled fantastic, especially moutere. 24hrs later for the second dry hop, and the new pack of galaxy just smelled "OK" at best, so I decided to switch course given one of my fav combos thus far was exclusively Moutere and Nectaron. I ONLY had 13oz nectaron left and its out of stock but decided to use some anyways lol. Glad I did!

The pics are the force carbed sample from leftovers after kegging (need better lighting I know), but in general - I am stunned how fruity this is and aroma of force carbed sample is fantastic. Was wanting to make sure I get the passionfruit/tropical vibe for this and this nailed it. Some background earth, but honestly almost thinking need more earthiness to keep the depth of this beer because the passionfruit/tropical vibe is HUGE. For those who haven't used nectaron, its prob my fav hop these days and has awesome peach and tropical vibes with a lower NZ diesel character compared to Nelson or other "edgy" NZ hops. But it still has the NZ character. Its really a refined hop IMO. This beer is ready to drink NOW with zero conditioning needed to enjoy it, although I will take the week to carb it up and allow for some conditioning/aromas to work its magic anyways lol.

I do agree with @secretlevel in that I don't think that cosmic punch changes or gets in the way of the hop profile/flavor but it really seems to amplify the profile in general. In my case - its the passionfruit/tropical vibe. Definitely going to keep experimenting with the cosmic punch. I am a fan.

Poor indoor lighting, but will try to get a proper beer porn pic uploaded in about 7-10days when the keg is tapped.
View attachment 740851

View attachment 740852

Looks great man! Don’t be afraid to send some my way lol

 

[secretlevel]

Looks great man! Don’t be afraid to send some my way lol

lol... yeah, will this beer see nation-wide distribution?

 

[Noob_Brewer]

That looks awesome, I gotta order Motuere and finally give it a shot. Those NZ hops are on fire these days!

In regards to earthiness, this is going back to the subject of adding some CTZ in boil. I'm definitely going to be experimenting with that myself, but this is also what I love about Idaho 7. I actually got really nice black tea/dank weed character out of Idaho 7 just in whirlpool and dry hop. I scored well on that one in a comp because I think the judges really enjoyed a hint of something more familiar in an otherwise super tropical NEIPA.

PS. I did Hop Sensory training with Yakima Chief Hops yesterday and holy crap, Talus smelled like pure heaven. Big time navel orange, cherries and pineapple. Absolutely explosive.

Thanks man and yeah I really like Moutere. And its relatively cheap for a NZ hop. Just checked YVH and the 2020 variety is actually cheaper than 2019? Not sure why. Its also super high Alpha acids so great on the hot side too and has nice pungent hop character. I completely agree though that I7 is great! I primarily have been using it as a hot side hop. I did one of @Dgallo single hop pale ales with I7 and it was surprisingly orangey (2019 lot) with little black tea/herbalness. BUT I think it really depends on how you pair it as well. I have done a Moutere/Nectaron combo (mostly moutere hot side, and then flip-flopped ratio on DH to favor nectaron) that was straight awesome fruit with some background smooth NZ diesel and was awesome. They really balanced well and it wasn't just a "one-note" combo, nice and had great depth. then when I went to repeat it and didn't have enough of both hops, I decided to use I7 on hot side with moutere and a dash of nectaron to compensate thinking I would get some of the orange and the earthiness/tea/woodiness descriptors were MUCH greater than with Moutere/Nectaron alone. It was still a very nice beer but not as fruity and had more complex earth/etc that time around. So I7 really depends on how you pair it to determine what will come out IMO. Great hop for sure.

As for Columbus? Its great. Nice true hop out of the bag type character, grapefruit citrus to me. Great hot side hop for depth of character.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Looks great man! Don’t be afraid to send some my way lol

lol... yeah, will this beer see nation-wide distribution?

Lol, when I got into brewing 1.5yrs ago, I started with kegging and don't even own any bottling equipment so distro to friends/peeps only occurs when I can borrow my home brew clubs canner. Will prob purchase some bottling equipment at some point though as Id like to age some beers like a stout and/or actually enter a competition or two. Until then, I consider my posts here on HBT to be my way to visually "nation-wide distribute" lol

 

[ThatVideoKid]

Lol, when I got into brewing 1.5yrs ago, I started with kegging and don't even own any bottling equipment so distro to friends/peeps only occurs when I can borrow my home brew clubs canner. Will prob purchase some bottling equipment at some point though as Id like to age some beers like a stout and/or actually enter a competition or two. Until then, I consider my posts here on HBT to be my way to visually "nation-wide distribute" lol

Get a Tapcooler. Bottling a few off the tap (or the whole keg) is a snap.

 

[secretlevel]

Lol, when I got into brewing 1.5yrs ago, I started with kegging and don't even own any bottling equipment so distro to friends/peeps only occurs when I can borrow my home brew clubs canner. Will prob purchase some bottling equipment at some point though as Id like to age some beers like a stout and/or actually enter a competition or two. Until then, I consider my posts here on HBT to be my way to visually "nation-wide distribute" lol

Haha, no worries at all! If one day you do decide to bottle, check out the "We no need no stinking beer gun" method. I've sent bottles to friends and comps and it's always worked out well. I just top them off to make sure that the foam pushes out all of O2. Bonus is that I sold my BeerGun and made a few bucks back!

 

[Ubie]

I seen a few in here say they are messing with Cosmic Punch. I am also going to experiment with it too but put a big emphasis on the wine character from it as it was described. The recipe is still going to be up in the air until I brew it Sunday. I want to push some IBUs in the boil to give it a little life as I am getting hazied out.

I want something crispy, not too sweet, good body and a decent bitterness. (drank too many alchemist beers over the weekend and made me miss them)
End around 1.015 per Brewfather to plan for it to attenuate more like @secretlevel said. Hopefully to stay above 1.012.

85% Pilsner
6.5% Flaked Wheat
5% GNO
3.5% Carafoam

or

65.5% Pilsner
13% Vienna
10% Flaked Wheat
6.5% White Wheat
5% GNO

Cascade in the mash.

Warrior to bitter to 35 IBU (about 50 IBU when all done with the mash hops)

Citra, Nelson Sauvin and Mosaic in the whirlpool 150 degrees

Then the same three for 2 dry hops


The grain bill might end up on a dartboard and it will pick what I use. I am leaning towards the bottom one a little due to the malt balance to the bitterness but I like the simplicity of the top one to let the fermentation and hops shine.


edit: 1.066 OG or so and 152 mash temp

I think this one is in my top 5 IPAs that I have made. It is very soft, delicate and dry. I will be using this yeast again to try other techniques to get the most out of it. Full write up @ Instagram

I ended up doing:

75% Pilsner
10% Flaked Wheat
10% White Wheat
3.4% GNO
1.6% Acid Malt

152 Mash
175 Cl : 125 SO4

Motueka, Nelson Sauvin and Citra

 

[wepeeler]

I know most everyone here does closed transfers, but for those who don't, have you heard of adding Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) to the mash or when kegging? I researched a little, and there's definitely people who are doing this. Most claim it's magic, even if it is science...

 

[R.A.I.D]

I know most everyone here does closed transfers, but for those who don't, have you heard of adding Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) to the mash or when kegging? I researched a little, and there's definitely people who are doing this. Most claim it's magic, even if it is science...

I am using it. Every time. It is an antioxidant. Works great. But it breaks down when heated up, so you should add it after the yeast is done fermenting. E.g. together with your DH. 0.5g/10L.

 

[HopsAreGood]

I know most everyone here does closed transfers, but for those who don't, have you heard of adding Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) to the mash or when kegging? I researched a little, and there's definitely people who are doing this. Most claim it's magic, even if it is science...

I went pretty far down the rabbit hole of vitamin C and SMB in an effort to completely eradicate any oxygen. I read a few reliable brewers stating that vitamin C alone can actually have the opposite effect you are looking for. They said that adding SMB with it would prevent that from happening and work synergistically together.

I tried it one time adding both vitamin C and SMB to the serving keg, and had a horrible sulfur/rotten egg smell that I could not get rid of. I posted on here all about it asking for advice and I tried everything that was recommended to no avail. After weeks I simply could not get rid of it and haven’t tried using either of these again.

I am 100% certain that the sulfur smell came from the SMB so perhaps I will try using vitamin C again (alone) to see what it may bring to the table.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/ascorbic-acid-as-an-oxygen-scavenger-for-beer.628158/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/campden-tablets-sulfites-and-brewing-water.361073/

 

[wepeeler]

I went pretty far down the rabbit hole of vitamin C and SMB in an effort to completely eradicate any oxygen. I read a few reliable brewers stating that vitamin C alone can actually have the opposite effect you are looking for. They said that adding SMB with it would prevent that from happening and work synergistically together.

I tried it one time adding both vitamin C and SMB to the serving keg, and had a horrible sulfur/rotten egg smell that I could not get rid of. I posted on here all about it asking for advice and I tried everything that was recommended to no avail. After weeks I simply could not get rid of it and haven’t tried using either of these again.

I am 100% certain that the sulfur smell came from the SMB so perhaps I will try using vitamin C again (alone) to see what it may bring to the table.

Yeah, I read the C and SMB together thing too, but seems like everyone has settled on just C. I haven't had noticeable oxidation, but I'm sure it's happening to some degree.

 

[HopsAreGood]

Yeah, I read the C and SMB together thing too, but seems like everyone has settled on just C. I haven't had noticeable oxidation, but I'm sure it's happening to some degree.

How much C are using? I’ll prob give it a try soon.

 

[wepeeler]

How much C are using? I’ll prob give it a try soon.

I haven't tried it yet. 3-5 grams per 5 gallons seems to be the consensus. I'd probably start closer to 3g.

 

[HopsAreGood]

I haven't tried it yet. 3-5 grams per 5 gallons seems to be the consensus. I'd probably start closer to 3g.

Interesting… @R.A.I.D above stated the equivalent of about 1 gram per 5 gallons.

 

[R.A.I.D]

Sodium metabisulfite taste awful in beer. I tried is once. When I wanted to kill the yeast. I won't use it again.

I recommend using only ascorbic acid. 1g to 5 gal is enough.

 

[HopsAreGood]

Sodium metabisulfite taste awful in beer. I tried is once. When I wanted to kill the yeast. I won't use it again.

I recommend using only ascorbic acid. 1g to 5 gal is enough.

Do you just dump the powder in or dissolve it some kind of liquid?

 

[wepeeler]

With all this Vitamin C, we really are making juice!

 

[R.A.I.D]

Do you just dump the powder in or dissolve it some kind of liquid?

I just dump it in the beer together with the dry hops. It dissolves when I agitate the hops.

 

[woof]

Sodium metabisulfite taste awful in beer. I tried is once. When I wanted to kill the yeast. I won't use it again.

I recommend using only ascorbic acid. 1g to 5 gal is enough.

a while back you mentioned using citric acid in addition to ascorbic. are you still doing that as well?

 

[R.A.I.D]

a while back you mentioned using citric acid in addition to ascorbic. are you still doing that as well?

I have tried both with and without citric acid in addition. Citric acid should increase the effect of the other antioxidants. And if you ask me, it doesn't hurt adding a tiny bit. The taste of citric acid blends fine in a NEIPA.
But still ascorbic acid also works just fine alone.

 

[R.A.I.D]

I am going to invest in a new PET fermenter with pressure fermentation capability.
Should I go with a two fermenter set up and do a closed transfer away from the yeast and into a fermenter with dry hops? Or should I go with a conical fermenter with a 2" butterfly valve in the bottom for dumping the yeast and then add dry hops through the top through a co2 flow?

Is it possible to dump the yeast completely through a valve? Or is a closed transfer the safest way to get rid of all the yeast?

 

[Andre3000]

With all this Vitamin C, we really are making juice!

Tang is next.

 

[wepeeler]

Tang is next.

Isn't that what we're doing here?

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I am going to invest in a new PET fermenter with pressure fermentation capability.
Should I go with a two fermenter set up and do a closed transfer away from the yeast and into a fermenter with dry hops? Or should I go with a conical fermenter with a 2" butterfly valve in the bottom for dumping the yeast and then add dry hops through the top through a co2 flow?

Is it possible to dump the yeast completely through a valve? Or is a closed transfer the safest way to get rid of all the yeast?

I think this really would depend on your setup. How would you plan on temp controlling the fermenter? For example if you use a chest freezer, then the conical design would seem to be a PITA because you can't reach the dump valve. So your solution for what you are putting the fermenter in might help here to decide. I have never done any sort of secondary for fruit or dry hopping purposes. I know you can purge the second vessel for DHing, but how well can you actually purge it truly to have the environment totally devoid of O2? Looking at @doug293cz previous graphs and comments here on HBT, even when you purge a keg that was once full of star san from a CO2 tank (not natural fermentation gas), you still need ~8 additional purges of CO2 at 30psi afterwards to get that keg (or any second vessel) down to acceptable O2 ppm ranges if I remember correctly. So with that in mind, a PET grade conical fermenter makes more sense as it removes the need to DH in a second vessel that you need to go to great lengths to make sure its devoid of O2 as much as possible. Just a thought as I am just thinking that minimizing O2 is more important than getting the beer of the yeast/trub prior to DHing.

Excited to see what you decide on regardless!

 

[couchsending]

Absorbic Acid can actually be a super oxidizer if not paired with something else. I don’t feel like looking up the exact reaction but I believe in the presence of certain metals it will actually speed up the oxidative reaction. Those metals are often found in Flaked adjuncts.

I believe pairing it with something like Brewtan B helps.

Been a while since I looked this stuff up but I wouldn’t go adding Vitamin C on its own to any beers.

 

[Dgallo]

Absorbic Acid can actually be a super oxidizer if not paired with something else. I don’t feel like looking up the exact reaction but I believe in the presence of certain metals it will actually speed up the oxidative reaction. Those metals are often found in Flaked adjuncts.

I believe pairing it with something like Brewtan B helps.

Been a while since I looked this stuff up but I wouldn’t go adding Vitamin C on its own to any beers.

I think it’s manganese if I recall correctly. Something about the malting process of grain denatures or uses it up.