beervoid
Hophead & Pellet Rubber
Will give other techniques a try and see how it pans out.Yeah the splashing isn’t near enough to get sufficient O2 into the wort. I’d suspect this being the biggest culprit honestly.
Cheers
Will give other techniques a try and see how it pans out.Yeah the splashing isn’t near enough to get sufficient O2 into the wort. I’d suspect this being the biggest culprit honestly.
6 gallon Recipe:
7# Pilsen
3# Malted Oats
2# White Wheat
2# Vienna
1# Flaked Oats
1# Lactose
10 mins
1 oz Simcoe
WP (160F)
4 oz El Dorado
1 oz Galaxy
1 oz Sabro
DH
2 oz Ella
2 oz Vic Secret
1 oz Galaxy
1 oz Sabro
A24 Dry Hop
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If you’re splashing your wort and stirring your yeast in vigorously when you rack into the fermenter you should have plenty of dissolved o2 for your yeast. If you dissolve too much o2 into the wort and your lag time is extended from inderpitching you increase the risk of your malt and hotside hops flavor compounds to oxidize and not produce as well as they would otherwise.Will give other techniques a try and see how it pans out.
Cheers
Its my understanding hot side oxidation only occurs at temps above 27c.If you’re splashing your wort and stirring your yeast in vigorously when you rack into the fermenter you should have plenty of dissolved o2 for your yeast. If you dissolve too much o2 into the wort and your lag time is extended from inderpitching you increase the risk of your malt and hotside hops flavor compounds to oxidize and not produce as well as they would otherwise.
I know this was mentioned previously but I would test your thermometer again. If you have a new fridge the sets to specific temps, test a liquid that’s in the and then boil some water. Make sure both temps hit perfectly. If they don’t jive, that’s you’re issue. There’s genuinely no reason a 148*f mash would produce a 1.020 beer with 1318 unless it’s a late generation or the mash is not converting properly (temp/ph/time)
Grain father like system.
I tried step mashing but it didnt make much difference. I fill my fv from about waist height splashing the wort as it goes in.
Checked 2 beers OG 1.065 today. Mashed at 149f.
Conan and 1318 comparison. 1318 ended up at 1.019 fg. Conan at 1.018fg.
Went through my notes and checked the recipes that fermented down more. They all didnt have any adjuncts. I believe im seeing a pattern here.
Might be refractometer adjunct related.
Any people here using refractomerer (+ abv correction formula) to determine fg?
Cheers
I use the same calculator.Maybe the combination of those base malts and the lack of 02?
I'd assume you are giving you beer long enough to finish out....10 days to be safe? Some people rush this style of beer.
I have used a refractometer and calculator to determine fg. Worked fine. This is the calculator I used: http://seanterrill.com/2012/01/06/refractometer-calculator/
Something is off though....if your mashing at 149f you should be hitting the range of 1.013-1.011 with 1318. I have not used Conan enough to know.
Foxidation occurs throughout the brewing process and will happen at pitching temperatures of your lag time is too great. Think about it, it happens during dryhoping and most are dryhoping at the same temps as pitching.Its my understanding hot side oxidation only occurs at temps above 27c.
Temperature probe was tested in ice water read fine. At boiling temps it's 2c off. I figure the max avarage middle would be 1c. Even with that in mind it doesnt explain high attenuation. Def looking to get a digital thermometer I can calibrate.
Yeast is freshly grown 1st gen.
If anything these last batches where expected to end lower as I overpitched. Im at 1mil cells per ml instead of usual 0.75.
I use the same calculator.
I let it go for 8 days max. Healthy fermentation shouldnt take longer then that.
Im also doubting o2 as I would presume low o2 levels would result in lagging and slow fermentation.
I have ripping fermentation every single time.
How long do you let your sample for refractometer settle down?
I meassure the whole system with water and keep track of temps during mashing with an independent thermometer.I used to take a sample from the fermenter, put a drop on the refractometer, and then calculate. The sample is so small that the surface of the refractometer is going to easily change the temp of the beer.
Or are you talking about brew day? I use a pipette to collect a sample, cool the bulb part that holds the liquid in room temp water and then put some on the refractometer for a reading. I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IQTSE0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
*Edit: brew day procedure takes less than 30 seconds to cool
Before brew day I convert the estimated preboil and original gravity and put those figures in my brew sheet notes for reference before brewing. I use this calculator for that: https://www.brewersfriend.com/brix-converter/
Also....maybe test your system to see if your actually getting an accurate mash temp? Where is the temp taken from? Is there a built in temp probe? Maybe that's faulty? I had a temp probe go faulty and caused low readings which were false.
Thank you, i'm happy with how the beers turn out but can't stand it when anticipated / calculated nrs are off without me understanding what is the causing factor.Foxidation occurs throughout the brewing process and will happen at pitching temperatures of your lag time is too great. Think about it, it happens during dryhoping and most are dryhoping at the same temps as pitching.
2*c difference could be close to 3*f off if using a non digit thermometer, there is also the chance for human error reading non digital thermometers which would certainly affect the amount of complex sugars being extracted. It wouldn’t account for 1.020 but could be a few points
That being said, I really hope you get to the bottom of issue. Good luck brother
As for refractometer sample, I'm inclined to believe that taking a sample direct from the fermenter or boil vs taking a sample and letting it settle down and let any particles precipitate (not as much as cool down) helps with better readings.
I have had great success using a refractometer in determining OG but it took 3 things to get right:
1. The sample *must* be clear and degassed. I run all samples through a coffee filter first. This is especially critical during active fermentation. Sometimes twice.
2. Get a very accurate OG with a hydrometer. I use a precision hydrometer accurate to 0.1 Plato.
3. Use the Novotny correction equation. It’s most accurate mid to late in fermentation. I’ve verified it accurate to within 0.1 Plato (the accuracy of my hydrometer) many times. The Terril equation is more accurate early but that’s generally not a time of great interest.
Just tapped my newest NEIIPA. Comet and Galaxy 3:1 hotside. Galaxy and Nelson dryhop hop 1:2. Used 5% honey malt this time for some sweetness and color. This is the beer I was worried about last week because the fermentation got up to 80*f when my temp control failed (LAIII). No fusel or other off flavors whatsoever and a very nice ester profile. The temp issue must of been corrected fast enough or maybe LAIII is more temp tolerant than we think; idk but I certainly won’t let it get the hot again regardless
65% 2rowLooks great. What was your grain bill for that?
From my experience, Terril's calculator was within a point or two of what was measured with a hydrometer and no where near that far off from what was expected. BUT she should get a hydrometer and check against the refractometer regardless.
If they both line up...then go back to process and ingredients.
I consider to be a point or two a lot, especially when dealing with spunding.
Novotny was less than half a point.
Citra? Is that a new paper? Shellhammer's "classic" paper on "don't overdo the dry hop rate" was with Cascade.
You can imagine that the optimal rate will be different for different varieties, particularly ones that rely more on rare compounds like thiols for their flavour.
It'll be more complicated than that - as much as anything it will depend on the "bad" components of flavour rather than the "good" ones. And for instance whether the specific yeast strain is releasing flavour compounds bound as glycosides in the hops.
But just anecdotally old-school hops like Cascade don't seem to "work" particularly well at the high hopping rates found in NEIPAs, whereas the likes of Citra and Mosaic seem to work much better.
I’ve had your beer brother, Besides having hop burn it was good. Solid aroma. If I’m you all I do is completely eliminate your fermentation dryhop and keep the dryhop between 5-8 oz.Interesting... and of course complicated (it really is a complicated style, I think).
Do you have a general rule of thumb for the amount of DH in a 5-gallon batch? Or does it really vary depending on the hops? For example, I would never use 6 ounces of Galaxy in the DH, although I am sure somebody out there is doing it and getting great results!
But I've been pulling back the DH amounts. However, that Tonsmeire recipe has got me thinking of adding more back in again...and maybe some cryo.
Thank the LODO guys and gals. They came up with it I believe. I read about it in a thread about LODO. I think Schematix talked about it.
I think you might be able to just buy shorter dip tubes as well if you want to. Some of my new kegs have very short gas dip tubes from the factory.
I’ve had your beer brother, Besides having hop burn it was good. Solid aroma. If I’m you all I do is completely eliminate your fermentation dryhop and keep the dryhop between 5-8 oz.
My brother in law just had that experience with fog on two beers back to back 152* mash went to 1.009 so then he pumped it to 154 and finish 1.011. Oddly enough I didn’t perceive the 1.009 one as dryI just used WLP066 London Fog for the first time. Wow it shredded. Took it from 1.070 down to 1.009, 84% attenuation. I had read it didn't typically attenuate that great.
It seems to me many lower oil content and less pungent varieties dont work that well in a neipa.Citra? Is that a new paper? Shellhammer's "classic" paper on "don't overdo the dry hop rate" was with Cascade.
You can imagine that the optimal rate will be different for different varieties, particularly ones that rely more on rare compounds like thiols for their flavour.
Awesome, I'm hoping mine doesn't taste dry either but hopefully the 8% ABV will help with thatMy brother in law just had that experience with fog on two beers back to back 152* mash went to 1.009 so then he pumped it to 154 and finish 1.011. Oddly enough I didn’t perceive the 1.009 one as dry
Which mash temp?I’ve just done my first ever yeast starter for my latest batch using 1318. According to my TILT, my beer has attenuated from 1.081 down to 1.012. I wasn’t expecting a 9% abv beer but here we are.
Which mash temp?
Did you add any adjuncts?
Do you aerate your wort? How?
Any simple sugars added?
Thanks.. That's roughly 84% attenuation. I have a hard time getting above 70%. Can't be oxygenation issue for me if you are getting that low.65C
2.5kg of Rolled Oats, 1.5kg White Wheat
Shaking
500g Honey
I’ve just done my first ever yeast starter for my latest batch using 1318. According to my TILT, my beer has attenuated from 1.081 down to 1.012. I wasn’t expecting a 9% abv beer but here we are.
I’ve just done my first ever yeast starter for my latest batch using 1318. According to my TILT, my beer has attenuated from 1.081 down to 1.012. I wasn’t expecting a 9% abv beer but here we are.
I use a nifty little can of gas called Wine Preserver. Under $10 and good for multiple batches. Seems to do the trick!
I just want to double-check, this is what you are using, correct?
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...gon_Wine_Preserver_1024x1024.png?v=1510702312
Yes. Different brand but same stuff, though that brand looks a little pricier. The can I buy is under $10. I use it after fermentation when I am dry hopping, to purge oxygen. Seems to work!
In theory you could also use it to purge headspace, but I have not found that necessary for my beers.
I think the biggest reason my bottle conditioned NEIPA's don't oxidize is that I bottle right from the fermenter into bottles with sugar already in them.
Bottlers also have an advantage because the fermenting yeast in the bottle scrubs oxygen.
On the other side of the coin, though, we may lose some aroma if we use oxygen absorbing caps.
Despite all the pressure to keg (pun intended), I see no reason why bottle conditioned NEIPA's can't be excellent if you work to reduce oxygen exposure.
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