11 lb 2 rowGuys I’d like some help choosing hops for an upcoming competition I’m brewing for.
I have a half pound of each:
El Dorado, Idaho 7, Nelson, Galaxy, HBC 472, Amarillo, Mosaic, Citra and Vic Secret.
Planning on brewing a NEIPA targeting 7% abv.
I’m open to suggestions on the grain bill. I have 2 row, Pilsner, Maris otter, and white wheat. Also flakes oats.
I plan on using A24 yeast.
Thanks!
A few lessons along the way..
Whoever adds honey malt to this style is crazy. It darkens the beer so much... And doesn't impart much of anything else.
I had a similar thing happen to me with one of my recent beers that I used malted wheat at 15% and Carapils at 8%. Happened 2 weeks sooner than yours but I was stunned. The keg was getting low when it happened but I was never able to narrow down why it cleared so much. One of my theories is I moved the keg and stirred up everything that flocced out previously. So when this got resuspended, other proteins and polyphenols in the beer got attracted to this trub, when it flocced out for the second time, it pulled more with it.Alright NEIPA gurus - explain this one:
4gal batch
70% 2R
18% TF Malted Oats
9% Chit
3% Honey Malt
WP: 1.5oz each HBC 692, Mosaic, moteuka
DH1@ 1.022 - 1oz Each same blend
DH2@ FG after soft crash - 1.5oz each, same blend
Yeast: Conan (Barbarian A04 Gen 2)
Did all of the “hazy” tactics and yeast.
Week 3:
View attachment 638807
Here after six weeks in keg (haven’t drank any last two weeks...been drinking other taps, I have eight). I have floating diptube (This has never happened in four years 70+ batches of Neipas)
View attachment 638806
I had a similar thing happen to me with one of my recent beers that I used malted wheat at 15% and Carapils at 8%. Happened 2 weeks sooner than yours but I was stunned. The keg was getting low when it happened but I was never able to narrow down why it cleared so much. One of my theories is a moved the keg and stirred up everything that flocced out previously. So when this got resuspended, other proteins and polyphenols in the beer got attracted to this trub, when it flocced our for the second time, it pulled more with it.
HBC692 is interesting. Just like Sabro it is unbelievably potent. Not sure what it is about these hops but you honesty only need 10-15% of the total hop bill to come from them otherwise they tend to overpower everything.
I’ve got a bunch of it and I think I’m going to start adding it to the boil only to see how that works.
It is very woody that for sure. The Hill
Farmstead single hop beer did have a lot of interesting fruit but was dominated by the woody aspect as well.
The interesting thing to me about these hops is the potential to use a fraction of the total amount of hops cause they’re so potent.
HBC692 is interesting. Just like Sabro it is unbelievably potent. Not sure what it is about these hops but you honesty only need 10-15% of the total hop bill to come from them otherwise they tend to overpower everything.
I’ve got a bunch of it and I think I’m going to start adding it to the boil only to see how that works.
It is very woody that for sure. The Hill
Farmstead single hop beer did have a lot of interesting fruit but was dominated by the woody aspect as well.
The interesting thing to me about these hops is the potential to use a fraction of the total amount of hops cause they’re so potent.
On a sidenote, does anyone know why none of the southern hemisphere hops dont have their linalool and geraniol contents listed?
Are there any reports on the Lallemand New England Ale Yeast yet?
I've read there are problems with vitability?Well it has its own threads, which I see you've found. From what I can tell it behaves pretty much typically of first-generation Conan - so not as peachy as later generations, but good enough for the likes of Cloudwater to use in Untappd-4.23-rated DIPAs. They seem to have largely switched to using it rather than the WL and TYB liquid versions.
I can't remember if I've mentioned it in this thread, but Lallemand are promising two new dry yeasts this year, a kveik and "another one for NEIPAs", presumably a 1318 derivative.
You’re boil size will have greater alpha acid iso. than a 5 gallon batch would. Greater volumes, greater utilization. That’s one reason beer smith will calculate higher.Is anyone still brewing the original (most up to date version) of this recipe. I know he mixes up 6 oz for whirlpool and 6 oz for single dryhop, but it’s hard to know what ibu you’re getting. The reason I ask is because I’m brewing 11 gallons, so I assume I’d just double those hop amounts to be close? Beersmith calculates 84 ibu but that seems off...
You can skip the bittering addition completely or half it, move it to 10-5min addition for more flavor.Does 12 oz in the whirlpool (hi alpha I.e. Citra/mosaic/galaxy) and 12 oz in dry hop sound right? I use 1 oz Columbus at 30 min in the boil.
I’m literally so sick of hearing these two statements. Whirlpool provides a lot of flavor and Aroma. You can certainly tell the difference between 3oz whirlpool and a 6 oz whirlpool. Hotside Provides a different set of flavor and Aroma than dryhoping does. A perfect example of a beer that uses higher hotside hops than DH is Sip of Sunshine from Lawson’s. Would you say that beer lacks flavor or aroma? Its just a different flavor/aroma profile than let’s say a TH beer.I wouldnt waste that much hops in the whirlpool. You can easily half the additions and taste no difference. Heck if you want some powerfull aroma move them to the dry hop.
I tried a heavy dose of whirlpool, 10oz mosaic on 5 gallons with a relatively small dose of dry hop 3oz mosaic.I’m literally so sick of hearing these two statements. Whirlpool provides a lot of flavor and Aroma. You can certainly tell the difference between 3oz whirlpool and a 6 oz whirlpool. Hotside Provides a different set of flavor and Aroma than dryhoping does. A perfect example of a beer that uses higher hotside hops than DH is Sip of Sunshine from Lawson’s. Would you say that beer lacks flavor or aroma? Its just a different flavor/aroma profile than let’s say a TH beer.
Have you ever tried an all dryhop beer or an all WH beer? I have and I can tell you that the wh beer was better and still had a nice aroma. Don’t get me wrong it still seemed like it was missing something, but the DH only beer, though the aroma was great, it’s flavor was delicate and missing assertiveness. I get that people have their preferences on which ratio they like better, I’m usually 40/60 or 60/40 depending on the hops I’m using, but to say you’ll get the same flavor by halving your whirlpool in my experience is just not true.
I've got some distilled hop oils. They are a pain to blend in the dry hop.I whirlpool no less than 6oz/5gal and dry hop no less than 4oz/5gal.
Layering the hops is key to giving the full experience.... 60/15/10/5/KO/dry. Look into hop hop hash and distilled hop oil too.
Using hop hash in the KO or dry can help reduce loss since you can roughly halve the amount vs regular pellets. Also if you like your hop aroma over the top try adding distilled hop oil. Major potent stuff.
I've read there are problems with vitability?
Small packages where promised but never came out?
https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en...t-details/london-esb-english-style-ale-yeast/They've struggled with viability but it's usable, the retail packs have been available in the UK for a few weeks now.
I've been able to confirm that the upcoming yeasts are versions of Voss and "London Ale" (so presumably 1318), the bacterium is another Lactobacillus.
https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en...t-details/london-esb-english-style-ale-yeast/
They have a london ale named one already.
I've got some distilled hop oils. They are a pain to blend in the dry hop.
Are you saying they work well in the whirlpool?
Which brand are you using? Anyone I’ve used is like resinous gloop that comes out of a syringe that’s hard enough to get it to dissolve in the WhirlpoolNo hop oil goes right into the keg.
Which brand are you using? Anyone I’ve used is like resinous gloop that comes out of a syringe that’s hard enough to get it to dissolve in the Whirlpool
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