New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[stickyfinger]

I wouldn't try dry hopping loose unless you can soft/cold crash (without air infiltration) the hops out of suspension. You might be cursing life if you try it warm and your setup clogs.

waiting on my 2019 galaxy from YVH for my next batch, with all this dry hop talk i was thinking of dry hopping them loose. I have always bagged them, but wanted to try to get better utilization with the fresh stuff. I just wanted to know how you guys who do dry hop loose remove them. What works good. I dont want to screw it up. I typically dry hop for only 3 days. I use a conical FV so it should help with removal. I have always been nervous to try this way. Please any tips that work good or a link to a past thread on this.

 

[isomerization]

waiting on my 2019 galaxy from YVH for my next batch, with all this dry hop talk i was thinking of dry hopping them loose. I have always bagged them, but wanted to try to get better utilization with the fresh stuff. I just wanted to know how you guys who do dry hop loose remove them. What works good. I dont want to screw it up. I typically dry hop for only 3 days. I use a conical FV so it should help with removal. I have always been nervous to try this way. Please any tips that work good or a link to a past thread on this.

I would dry hop loose in the keg (with a CBDS type setup that draws from the top of the liquid) IF you can’t control head pressure.

 

[flintoid]

waiting on my 2019 galaxy from YVH for my next batch, with all this dry hop talk i was thinking of dry hopping them loose. I have always bagged them, but wanted to try to get better utilization with the fresh stuff. I just wanted to know how you guys who do dry hop loose remove them. What works good. I dont want to screw it up. I typically dry hop for only 3 days. I use a conical FV so it should help with removal. I have always been nervous to try this way. Please any tips that work good or a link to a past thread on this.

I've started doing loose dry hopping in kegs. Earlier in this thread, someone suggested a filter for the dip tube. I bought this filter on amazon, cut a hole in the top of it (the lid) for the dip tube, and trimmed a keg's dip tube by about 2 cm. I slide the dip tube into this filter as I assemble it into the keg.

I made a liquid-to-liquid ball lock line which I used to transfer the beer from kegs. I will use that same line to transfer it out of my fermonster vessel now. I have done two batches with about 4-6oz of loose pellet dry hops in kegs, and haven't had a clog yet.

 

[nick sekerak]

I wouldn't try dry hopping loose unless you can soft/cold crash (without air infiltration) the hops out of suspension. You might be cursing life if you try it warm and your setup clogs.

yeah i can soft crash under pressure to prevent O2 suckback during the chilling. Is 50*F low enough for the soft crash, thats what i have been doing to drop yeast out.

I can put upto 35psi on my new fermzilla fermentor, what psi do you guys use when dry hopping.

Another question: When you soft crash how long does it take for the hops to drop to the bottom of your conical before you can dump them?

 

[couchsending]

I can only get to about 42/45 without having to use a lot of Co2 when crashing in the SS Chronicals. I never bag my dry hops.

As long as you have a rotating racking arm you should be fine. I usually give it 48 hours at 45 or so and have almost no issues with clogging. Just rotate the racking arm up slightly and dump some beer until it seems free of debris then attach your well purged line to the keg and transfer. I will usually dump some hops/grub through the dump valve a few times before transferring. Depends on how big your dry hop load is. I’ve probably done 12oz in 6 gallons a few times with no issues.

 

[Dgallo]

yeah i can soft crash under pressure to prevent O2 suckback during the chilling. Is 50*F low enough for the soft crash, thats what i have been doing to drop yeast out.

I can put upto 35psi on my new fermzilla fermentor, what psi do you guys use when dry hopping.

Another question: When you soft crash how long does it take for the hops to drop to the bottom of your conical before you can dump them?

Like 2 psi. Just to keep surface pressure.

I soft crash at 50 or a little lower and it works fine. I dont like dryhoping at 50 personally. 60-65 is where i aim.

At 50 the hops seem to drop out well before I feel they are fully extracted. So yeah at 50 they’ll drop out

 

[Dustin_J]

After reading through a bunch of this thread (and numerous others), I'm planning on taking a first crack at one of these - how does the following recipe look? Some quick thoughts: The Victory and Carahell are intended to add just a touch of color and flavor (I like the slightly orange color, hopefully), and the hops are primarily based on what I have around with the intent of having both tropical and citrus notes.

Thanks for all of the information/discussion here everyone!
---
NEIPA 1
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Estimated OG: 1.059 SG
Estimated Color: 4.7 SRM
Estimated IBU: 31.6 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 85.1 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Mash: 151 F for 60 min. Estimated pH = 5.31
Yeast: WLP051

GRIST
9 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt, 2-Row (Rahr) - 77.6 %
1 lbs Wheat, Flaked - 8.2 %
1 lbs White Wheat Malt (Cargill) - 8.2 %
6.0 oz Carahell (10.0 SRM) - 3.1 %
6.0 oz Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) - 3.1 %

HOPS
Boil (60 min)
0.70 oz Horizon [12.80 %] - 26.8 IBUs

Whirlpool (20 min @ 160 F)
2.00 oz Amarillo [8.10 %]
1.50 oz Mosaic [10.69 %]
1.00 oz Centennial [6.00 %]
1.00 oz Chinook [11.60 %]
0.30 oz Horizon [12.80 %]

Dry Hop (2-3 days into fermentation)
2.00 oz Amarillo [8.10 %]
1.50 oz Mosaic [10.69 %]
1.00 oz Centennial [6.00 %]
1.00 oz Chinook [11.60 %]

WATER (RO, built to following):
Ca 79
Mg 13
Na 23
SO4 125
Cl 118
HCO3 NA
- .5 ml/gal 50% phosphoric acid will be added to mash as well to reach estimated pH above.

 

[nick sekerak]

Like 2 psi. Just to keep surface pressure.

I soft crash at 50 or a little lower and it works fine. I dont like dryhoping at 50 personally. 60-65 is where i aim.

At 50 the hops seem to drop out well before I feel they are fully extracted. So yeah at 50 they’ll drop out

Good to know thanks guys, I think I will give it a shot. I have some confidence in this now.

Here is a little twist I discovered when cleaning out the new fermenter. Do you fellas think that this will step up my dry hop game any? I am able to create slight movement when running my weak a$$ stir plate inside the fermzilla fermenter. What is everyone’s thoughts. I know some pro breweries stir there hops. This is kinda the same on a home brew level.

 

[Dgallo]

Good to know thanks guys, I think I will give it a shot. I have some confidence in this now.

Here is a little twist I discovered when cleaning out the new fermenter. Do you fellas think that this will step up my dry hop game any? I am able to create slight movement when running my weak a$$ stir plate inside the fermzilla fermenter. What is everyone’s thoughts. I know some pro breweries stir there hops. This is kinda the same on a home brew level.

should help with faster extraction. That being said unless you’re pulling the yeast off you’d be re suspending the yeast.

My only question is, when you open the valve for the jar, will the air in the jar enter the fermenter? If so, it will add o2 to your environment. I know this was a flaw with the fermontisorus

 

[Andre3000]

That amount of Columbus should have given some dank, so it’s possible its old(getting to the end of last year’s crop) or the lot it came from didn’t produce a lot of dank. That’s a shame. Glad it came out good though

Dude I gotta say. After leaving this for a bit the dankness is coming through a bit more both on the aroma and flavor side. I think it's pretty darn close to what I was looking for! Might try playing with the ratios and perhaps adding Columbus to the dry hop.

 

[nick sekerak]

should help with faster extraction. That being said unless you’re pulling the yeast off you’d be re suspending the yeast.

My only question is, when you open the valve for the jar, will the air in the jar enter the fermenter? If so, it will add o2 to your environment. I know this was a flaw with the fermontisorus

I hope so. Not quite sure how to test how much faster it will be. Maybe it will shave a day off your DH. Your right I will have to dump the yeast first.

A good feature this FV has is that there is a keg post attached to the jar where you can perge it with co2 before opening the valve. So it should be pretty sweet it think. I may also use it to add my dry hops this way as well. I am thinking they would just float up once you open the valve.

That black cap in the picture is a soda bottle cap. I just installed a soda bottle carb post there to perge the collection jar.

 

[Dgallo]

I hope so. Not quite sure how to test how much faster it will be. Maybe it will shave a day off your DH. Your right I will have to dump the yeast first.

A good feature this FV has is that there is a keg post attached to the jar where you can perge it with co2 before opening the valve. So it should be pretty sweet it think. I may also use it to add my dry hops this way as well. I am thinking they would just float up once you open the valve.

That black cap in the picture is a soda bottle cap. I just installed a soda bottle carb post there to perge the collection jar.

And the other side can open at the same time to let the o2 out as Co2 goes in? That’s really convenient. You can literally drop trub and yeast without 02 ingest. I like it

 

[Dgallo]

After reading through a bunch of this thread (and numerous others), I'm planning on taking a first crack at one of these - how does the following recipe look? Some quick thoughts: The Victory and Carahell are intended to add just a touch of color and flavor (I like the slightly orange color, hopefully), and the hops are primarily based on what I have around with the intent of having both tropical and citrus notes.

Thanks for all of the information/discussion here everyone!
---
NEIPA 1
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Estimated OG: 1.059 SG
Estimated Color: 4.7 SRM
Estimated IBU: 31.6 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 85.1 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Mash: 151 F for 60 min. Estimated pH = 5.31
Yeast: WLP051

GRIST
9 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt, 2-Row (Rahr) - 77.6 %
1 lbs Wheat, Flaked - 8.2 %
1 lbs White Wheat Malt (Cargill) - 8.2 %
6.0 oz Carahell (10.0 SRM) - 3.1 %
6.0 oz Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) - 3.1 %

HOPS
Boil (60 min)
0.70 oz Horizon [12.80 %] - 26.8 IBUs

Whirlpool (20 min @ 160 F)
2.00 oz Amarillo [8.10 %]
1.50 oz Mosaic [10.69 %]
1.00 oz Centennial [6.00 %]
1.00 oz Chinook [11.60 %]
0.30 oz Horizon [12.80 %]

Dry Hop (2-3 days into fermentation)
2.00 oz Amarillo [8.10 %]
1.50 oz Mosaic [10.69 %]
1.00 oz Centennial [6.00 %]
1.00 oz Chinook [11.60 %]

WATER (RO, built to following):
Ca 79
Mg 13
Na 23
SO4 125
Cl 118
HCO3 NA
- .5 ml/gal 50% phosphoric acid will be added to mash as well to reach estimated pH above.

Looks good. I like using chinook in my NEipas. Interested in yourvflavor and aroma notes when it’s oouring

 

[Dustin_J]

Looks good. I like using chinook in my NEipas. Interested in yourvflavor and aroma notes when it’s oouring

Thanks! I'm pretty curious too, given a number of posts/comments that Chinook is a good candidate for biotransformation changes. It should be interesting given how distinct and prevalent it is in West coast style beers that I'm more familiar with.

 

[nick sekerak]

And the other side can open at the same time to let the o2 out as Co2 goes in? That’s really convenient. You can literally drop trub and yeast without 02 ingest. I like it

Yes that is exactly how it is ment to be used.

 

[SRJHops]

Need some advice on how to get a higher FG. I'd like to be at 1.016 or 1.018, but can't seem to get past 1.102 no matter what I do or what yeast I use. I get 1.010 to 1.102 using Safale-04, Juice, Dry Hop, and 1318.

For my latest I used 1318. Based on my grain bill and efficiency, the online calculator said should end at 1.016, but l got 1.012. I mashed for 60 mins at 158.

I know the calculators are rough estimates, but I wish I would fall on the high end rather than miss the target on the low end.

I do tend to overpitch, so I figure that might have something to do with it, but not sure it explains it entirely. I will try mashing at 160 next time, but that sure seems high...

Is my sparging something I should think more about? I tend to stir and steep for 10 minutes and then drain to the kettle. I do hit my pre-boil and post boil SG targets, though... It's really in the fermentation vessel where things seem to be working TOO well.

I did hit my OG target of 1.063, but thinking I will add some more grain (2-row) next time. My ABV was already pretty healthy at 6.96%, so not sure adding grain is really the solution, though. I just need the wort to be a little less fermentable and the yeast to work a little less efficiently, right?

Suggestions?

 

[Dgallo]

Need some advice on how to get a higher FG. I'd like to be at 1.016 or 1.018, but can't seem to get past 1.102 no matter what I do or what yeast I use. I get 1.010 to 1.102 using Safale-04, Juice, Dry Hop, and 1318.

For my latest I used 1318. Based on my grain bill and efficiency, the online calculator said should end at 1.016, but l got 1.012. I mashed for 60 mins at 158.

I know the calculators are rough estimates, but I wish I would fall on the high end rather than miss the target on the low end.

I do tend to overpitch, so I figure that might have something to do with it, but not sure it explains it entirely. I will try mashing at 160 next time, but that sure seems high...

Is my sparging something I should think more about? I tend to stir and steep for 10 minutes and then drain to the kettle. I do hit my pre-boil and post boil SG targets, though... It's really in the fermentation vessel where things seem to be working TOO well.

I did hit my OG target of 1.063, but thinking I will add some more grain (2-row) next time. My ABV was already pretty healthy at 6.96%, so not sure adding grain is really the solution, though. I just need the wort to be a little less fermentable and the yeast to work a little less efficiently, right?

Suggestions?

What’s your entire grain bill? Could add some less fermentable grains

Are you sure your thermometer is working properly and reading the correct temp? This can certainly be the issue. I had batteries dying out on me once and it read higher than the actual temp and I got a very dry beer as a result

You could also be experiencing hop creep? Do you let it hit FG before you dryhop? If not, try that next time and then recheck the gravity and see if you’re experiencing it

 

[flintoid]

Whenever I add hops during fermentation, I've noticed that it overshoots the FG every single time. It's part of the "bio" thing that everyone talks about and hop creep.

If you want a hardlined FG, don't do hops or a WP before fermentation. Or get a wireless hydrometer and crash out the yeast when you hit your desired FG.

 

[couchsending]

Whenever I add hops during fermentation, I've noticed that it overshoots the FG every single time. It's part of the "bio" thing that everyone talks about and hop creep.

If you want a hardlined FG, don't do hops or a WP before fermentation. Or get a wireless hydrometer and crash out the yeast when you hit your desired FG.

You don’t want to crash yeast when you hit your desired FG, you’ll most likely end up with diacetyl in your beer, especially if you’re using English Ale yeasts. The only strain I know of that you can do this with and not end up with diacetyl is 1007.

 

[flintoid]

You don’t want to crash yeast when you hit your desired FG, you’ll most likely end up with diacetyl in your beer, especially if you’re using English Ale yeasts. The only strain I know of that you can do this with and not end up with diacetyl is 1007.

I've done this twice with a calculated FG and not tasted diacetyl. Perhaps my palate isn't as refined as others, though, so it could have been present. Both batches had a 2 part mash designed to increase unfermentable sugar. The crashes were done to halt hop creep.

 

[leesmith]

I've done this twice with a calculated FG and not tasted diacetyl. Perhaps my palate isn't as refined as others, though, so it could have been present. Both batches had a 2 part mash designed to increase unfermentable sugar. The crashes were done to halt hop creep.

Do you do diacetyl (VDK) test or are just going on final product taste?

 

[flintoid]

Do you do diacetyl (VDK) test or are just going on final product taste?

Taste, which is why I confessed that maybe my palate isn't good enough.

I have a perfect current experiment for that test though. I'll be sure to report back.

 

[leesmith]

What’s the harm in ensuring it’s not there in case somebody’s palate is?

Age and heat can cause it to show its head if it’s not apparent.

The test is simple and basically mimics these things.

I can’t taste it in my beer when it’s carbed and fresh but I can ensure you from doing a test that’s it’s been there.

 

[stickyfinger]

I've worked with getting higher FGs a lot. You can mash up to at least 165F with only minimal loss of conversion effeciency. However, one thing I noticed that helped immensely is if you do a cold crash and drop the yeast out, then dry hop cool, you won't get a refermentation from the catalytic activity the hops induce on the residual dextrins. In other words, if you mash high, create more dextrins and then dry hop while the beer is warm, you are undoing some of the high mashing result. In addition, with a 60F soft crash, it worked really well with 1318 but not with WLP001 (b/c WLP001 can ferment at 60F apparently, though I could try a lower temp or do a cold crash and then warm back up to 55-60 and see if that helps.) Then, I just cold crashed and kegged, and I got a much higher FG than if I hadn't soft crashed.

If you do a soft crash, dry hop and then try to bottle your beer and carbonate naturally, I would be worried about bottle bombs. I had a very striking example of this refermentation effect a few months ago when I made a split batch of wort. Half had no dry hops and the other had dry hops during active fermentation. The difference in FG using the exact same yeast and fermentation chamber/temp was extreme to say the least.

Need some advice on how to get a higher FG. I'd like to be at 1.016 or 1.018, but can't seem to get past 1.102 no matter what I do or what yeast I use. I get 1.010 to 1.102 using Safale-04, Juice, Dry Hop, and 1318.

For my latest I used 1318. Based on my grain bill and efficiency, the online calculator said should end at 1.016, but l got 1.012. I mashed for 60 mins at 158.

I know the calculators are rough estimates, but I wish I would fall on the high end rather than miss the target on the low end.

I do tend to overpitch, so I figure that might have something to do with it, but not sure it explains it entirely. I will try mashing at 160 next time, but that sure seems high...

Is my sparging something I should think more about? I tend to stir and steep for 10 minutes and then drain to the kettle. I do hit my pre-boil and post boil SG targets, though... It's really in the fermentation vessel where things seem to be working TOO well.

I did hit my OG target of 1.063, but thinking I will add some more grain (2-row) next time. My ABV was already pretty healthy at 6.96%, so not sure adding grain is really the solution, though. I just need the wort to be a little less fermentable and the yeast to work a little less efficiently, right?

Suggestions?

 

[stickyfinger]

I have used 60F, and it worked well in terms of dropping a lot of yeast and stuff out of the beer. The dry hop also was dropping after a day or two at 60F, though I did a cold crash just to make sure I wouldn't get any clogs.

I am wondering how low you can soft crash and still get good hop flavor from the dry hops. I'd like to go lower to make sure the yeast stop working in case any sugars are released by the dry hopping, but I also am not sure if the flavor is going to get less to my liking if I go lower. I guess I'll have to just try it on a batch, maybe 55?

yeah i can soft crash under pressure to prevent O2 suckback during the chilling. Is 50*F low enough for the soft crash, thats what i have been doing to drop yeast out.

I can put upto 35psi on my new fermzilla fermentor, what psi do you guys use when dry hopping.

Another question: When you soft crash how long does it take for the hops to drop to the bottom of your conical before you can dump them?

 

[SRJHops]

What’s your entire grain bill? Could add some less fermentable grains

Are you sure your thermometer is working properly and reading the correct temp? This can certainly be the issue. I had batteries dying out on me once and it read higher than the actual temp and I got a very dry beer as a result

You could also be experiencing hop creep? Do you let it hit FG before you dryhop? If not, try that next time and then recheck the gravity and see if you’re experiencing it

5 Gallons:
Two-row Malt: 9 pounds
Oat Malt: 2 pounds
White Wheat Malt: 2 pounds
Carafoam: 1 pound
Flaked Barley: 1 pound

(Going to dial down the oat malt to 1 pound and up the 2-row by at least a pound next time.)

You mean the thermometer I use for the mash temp, right? It seems to be working, but that is an interesting question. I have another one, so I will try them both and make sure they agree next time.

I get hop creep for sure, because I triple dry hop. Twice during active and once before bottling. I could try not dry hopping during active, but would prefer to figure out how to compensate.

Thanks for your help!

 

[stickyfinger]

I get hop creep for sure, because I triple dry hop. Twice during active and once before bottling. I could try not dry hopping during active, but would prefer to figure out how to compensate.

Thanks for your help!

even if you dry hop after active, you can/will get hop creep. you have to shut down the yeast with cold to stop it (or use hops that don't break down dextrins...)

you might be able to try mashing higher and see if that works better, but you might wind up with diacetyl or bottle bombs.

 

[SRJHops]

I've worked with getting higher FGs a lot. You can mash up to at least 165F with only minimal loss of conversion effeciency. However, one thing I noticed that helped immensely is if you do a cold crash and drop the yeast out, then dry hop cool, you won't get a refermentation from the catalytic activity the hops induce on the residual dextrins. In other words, if you mash high, create more dextrins and then dry hop while the beer is warm, you are undoing some of the high mashing result. In addition, with a 60F soft crash, it worked really well with 1318 but not with WLP001 (b/c WLP001 can ferment at 60F apparently, though I could try a lower temp or do a cold crash and then warm back up to 55-60 and see if that helps.) Then, I just cold crashed and kegged, and I got a much higher FG than if I hadn't soft crashed.

If you do a soft crash, dry hop and then try to bottle your beer and carbonate naturally, I would be worried about bottle bombs. I had a very striking example of this refermentation effect a few months ago when I made a split batch of wort. Half had no dry hops and the other had dry hops during active fermentation. The difference in FG using the exact same yeast and fermentation chamber/temp was extreme to say the least.

Great stuff to think about, thanks. I will try dry hopping on the cool side next time. I am thinking of using Hornindal Kveik, so this might work really well, since that yeast likes the higher temps.

I most certainly get some hop creep, but no bottle bombs yet thankfully. The carbonation is a little high, especially after a few weeks in the bottle, though. I use a pretty rough system for the added sugar, but it should probably be refined in the future. (System is to drop two Cooper's sugar tablets in the bombers I use for bottling.)

 

[SRJHops]

even if you dry hop after active, you can/will get hop creep. you have to shut down the yeast with cold to stop it (or use hops that don't break down dextrins...)

you might be able to try mashing higher and see if that works better, but you might wind up with diacetyl or bottle bombs.

I have been soft crashing to 60, but thinking of trying to go a bit lower. But if I have less fermentable wort from mashing higher, then all else being equal (same hops and schedule), why would I potentially get bottle bombs? All from the hop creep?

 

[stickyfinger]

Yeah, there could still be some hop creep. I have no idea in practice though, as I don't bottle. I am assuming there will be enzymes in the beer after the dry hop and that they will result in refermentation. In fact, a higher mash temp could increase the severity of the problem in that there will be many more dextrins in the beer for the enzymes to work on.

 

[couchsending]

No reason you can’t go lower and just let it warm back up slowly.

Pretty sure Alchemist drops to 45 to get yeast to flocc and then dry hops and lets it warm back up, not sure to what temp however

I believe Aslin said they soft crash to 55 and let it warm back up to 63.

I’ve seen Sean Lawson recommend cooling to 55 and then dry hopping at around 55-57.

I’ve had great luck with certain hops at temps lower than 60 and especially hops like Mosaic that are known for inducing hop creep. Just did one where I dry hopped at 58 for 4 days that was all Mosaic. Came out great. No refermentation, no diacetyl.

 

[beervoid]

got a source for that? Hard to believe when it's floccing well and eating so much. If I go home and it's a dead vessel, I'll believe you. But at 15 psi this morning that thing was roaring.

Couldnt find the source, it has more do to with healthy fermentation and esters probably.

 

[JohnConnor]

What's everyone's opinion of WP/DH Columbus. Yes/No to favorable flavor additions? What can I expect? Looking at an ounce for each step.

 

[Dgallo]

What's everyone's opinion of WP/DH Columbus. Yes/No to favorable flavor additions? What can I expect? Looking at an ounce for each step.

I love it. Works fine in both. I’d up it though. Like 3 oz in the whirlpool and then an 1oz or so in the dryhop. But that’s always a preference thing. Trillium uses Columbus a lot in their whirlpool. I think it’s in almost all their beers if I recall

 

[JohnConnor]

I love it. Works fine in both. I’d up it though. Like 3 oz in the whirlpool and then an 1oz or so in the dryhop. But that’s always a preference thing. Trillium uses Columbus a lot in their whirlpool. I think it’s in almost all their IPAs if I recall

My problem is that I'm not a huge fan of it as my 60 minute addition. I think it brings a weird, earthy/spicy note to the beer. But you open the bag and it smells amazing. Fruity/dank/a little earthy or savory. Those are the characteristics I want to impart. But I don't want it to stand out on it's own. That's why I thought an ounce would accomplish that.

 

[Dgallo]

My problem is that I'm not a huge fan of it as my 60 minute addition. I think it brings a weird, earthy/spicy note to the beer. But you open the bag and it smells amazing. Fruity/dank/a little earthy or savory. Those are the characteristics I want to impart. But I don't want it to stand out on it's own. That's why I thought an ounce would accomplish that.

gotcha. It certainly could. I never tried using it low, my though was always that I didn’t want it to get lost with greater portion of fruit forward hops. So if I use it, it’s never less than 25% of my total hops. Try it and see what happens. Might be just the amount you’re lookinh for. If not, adjust it next time. That’s why this is so fun afterward, Verdad?

 

[flintoid]

I think Foam uses Columbus in their dry hop to bring out the dankness of Experimental Jetset. It reeks of Simcoe and Columbus, and has a bitter bite that balances it all out. It could be warrior but I would bet they use Columbus as their bittering addition.

 

[kevink]

One of my better NEIPAs had only Columbus in the flameout addition and two hopstands, Columbus and Mosaic in the early dryhop addition (back when I was playing around with "biotransformation"), and then Galaxy in the second dry hop and Citra in the third dry hop. The beer had no weird Earth or spice notes.

 

[turbo 6]

Guys I’d like some help choosing hops for an upcoming competition I’m brewing for.
I have a half pound of each:
El Dorado, Idaho 7, Nelson, Galaxy, HBC 472, Amarillo, Mosaic, Citra and Vic Secret.

Planning on brewing a NEIPA targeting 7% abv.

I’m open to suggestions on the grain bill. I have 2 row, Pilsner, Maris otter, and white wheat. Also flakes oats.
I plan on using A24 yeast.

Thanks!

 

[Dgallo]

Guys I’d like some help choosing hops for an upcoming competition I’m brewing for.
I have a half pound of each:
El Dorado, Idaho 7, Nelson, Galaxy, HBC 472, Amarillo, Mosaic, Citra and Vic Secret.

Planning on brewing a NEIPA targeting 7% abv.

I’m open to suggestions on the grain bill. I have 2 row, Pilsner, Maris otter, and white wheat. Also flakes oats.
I plan on using A24 yeast.

Thanks!

Is it a BJCP competition and are you entering it at 21d - specialty ipa. - New England IPA?