Glad to hear that as I would have wagered there was something amiss from that picture you posted!Never mind. All is well. View attachment 583187
Glad to hear that as I would have wagered there was something amiss from that picture you posted!Never mind. All is well. View attachment 583187
Glad to hear that as I would have wagered there was something amiss from that picture you posted!
Well I had initially thought some wild yeast contamination. To me the photo resembled many of the sour beer fermentation pictures that have been posted. Yours didn't look quite this bad.Oh yeah? What was your initial thought?
Lastest NEIPA. My 1st try a few days ago disappointed me. 1 week bottled now and no diacetyl nor oxygenation. Not a substantial amount of flavor but ill take it. Left is a Pinthouse Pizza DIPA. Right is mine.
View attachment 582967
Sorry for the absence. It has been hectic with life around my house.Primary to
Secondary to
Bottling Bucket to
Bottle.......
I would try to cut that down if you feel you can.
I would either go primary to bottle
or
Primary to bottling bucket to bottle
Less transferring the better for a beer like this.
Sorry for the absence. It has been hectic with life around my house.
...
A big, big thanks to everyone who helped me through this! Onward and upward!
Sorry for the absence. It has been hectic with life around my house.
I got the beer bottled. I ended up going:
Primary to
Bottling bucket to
Bottle.
I used 'Grolsch' style bottles with the bails. That went quite well.
When I transferred to the bottling bucket, the amount of hops in the bottom of the primary fermenting bucket was crazy. I can imagine there is some sort of work around to this but I am not aware of it yet. I estimate about 5 liters loss total, which I find quite high, but I have no frame of reference so that could be normal.
I bought some drops to carbonate, that was super easy. I may use these more often!
I purged the bottles with some co2 gas I found in a nifty can made for wine drinkers, that was also pretty cool. The filling went smoothly too.
The hop aroma was out of this world! The room really became saturated with the hops form the beer. It should be carbonated up soon and I will be able to try it out. I have an idea what I am going for in terms of flavor so hopefully this puts me in the right direction.
I will be sure to report back with a tasting and glass photo. I am not planning on brewing again until late September, when the temperatures drop back down again. It has been crazy hot in Switzerland, one of the hottest summers in the last 11 years. My normally stable cellar temperature even raised up 3 degrees.
The next time I am going to try using cryo hops to cut down on waste and look into using something to see if I can further reduce waste. I ended up with about 15 usable liters, which translated to roughly 46 33cl bottles of beer. the plan is to split it three ways with my partners.
I also have some money earmarked for gear purchases too. new boil kettles and a conical fermenter.
A big, big thanks to everyone who helped me through this! Onward and upward!
Cold crashing will compact the trub so you leave less beer behind.
What's your process for cold crashing (temp, time, airlock, etc.)? I haven't read much into it, but from what I have seen, people are concerned about suck back. I haven't been able to get a full 5 gal in my corny keg with my last two NEIPA's because of all the trub.THIS ^^^
Since I started cold crashing my IPAs, the trub is very compact at the bottom of the fermentor. And by tipping my primary (Better Bottle) I can get all but a few ounces into my keg or bottling bucket. Even the action of tipping washes very little trub up from the bottom and up into the siphon. Also, I have at times clamped a paint strainer bag onto the end of my siphon tube in the bottom of the bucket to catch what does slip past. But honestly, it's pretty minimal after a cold crash.
Thanks all for the replies. I would also like to know your process for old crashing. The way I understand it, you cool the beer to near freezing temperatures using some sort of cooling device.
What's your process for cold crashing (temp, time, airlock, etc.)? I haven't read much into it, but from what I have seen, people are concerned about suck back. I haven't been able to get a full 5 gal in my corny keg with my last two NEIPA's because of all the trub.
I cold crash only to get the hops to drop to the bottom. Usually by the time its get to 50f they have dropped. Beginning the process I use one of those flimsy plastic bags that are available in the produce sections of grocery stores, I use unused ones. A rubber band is used to secure a 3" length of 3/8 hose to it, then I blow it up with CO2. I hold my finger over the end then pull my 1/2" blowoff tube out of the starsan container and fit it over the tube on the bag. This is all done prior to dropping the temperature. The bag/balloon rarely completely deflates and no O2 gets in during crashing.I wouldn't recommend sucking vodka or Star san into your beer... especially in this style.
Blow up a balloon with CO2 and attach it to your airlock or try one of these nifty new gadgets from brewhardware
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ccguardianv2.htm
Or just crash it in the keg
Regarding suck-back: I use vodka rather than Starsan in my airlock, so I don't worry if a little gets sucked in. Even Starsan supposedly wouldn't hurt anything. Another option would be to remove the airlock and just cover the hole with sanitized foil. I dunno - I feel better if any air that's sucked in has to pass through the vodka first.
Blow up a balloon with CO2 and attach it to your airlock or try one of these nifty new gadgets from brewhardware
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ccguardianv2.htm
A change from 70F to 50F is only a .15% change in volume. That doesn't equate to quarts of air. Regardless, I added a port to hook up to CO2 during the cold crash process.
Pinthouse Pizza Electric Jellyfish clone V1 going.View attachment 584776View attachment 584777
So if you've got 1-2 gallons of headspace, you're looking at 2-4 quarts of air.https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/cold-crashing-and-oxidation.584234/#post-7591941
I did some calculations a while back for a 24 liter (6.4 gal) fermenter with 20 liters (5.3 gal) of beer and 4 liters (1.1 gal) of headspace. At the end of fermentation, the headspace is 100% CO2 at an absolute pressure of 14.7 psi. If the fermentation temp was 18˚C (64.4˚F) and you cold crash to 1˚C (33.8˚F), then the CO2 partial pressure drops from 14.7 psi to 13.8 psi. Due to the drop in CO2 pressure, 0.9 psi worth of air will suck back into the headspace, and the headspace will then contain 0.9 / 14.7 = 6% air and 1.2% O2 (about 12,000 ppm O2.)
Now since you cooled the beer, it will absorb more CO2 from the headspace. When equilibrium is reached, the CO2 partial pressure in the headspace will be 8.0 psi, and enough more air needs to suck back to make the air partial pressure 14.7 - 8.0 = 6.7 psi. The percentage of air in the headspace will then be 6.7 / 14.7 = 45.6%, and the O2 percentage will be 9.6% (about 96,000 ppm.)
So, immediately after cold crashing you will have about 12,000 ppm O2 in the headspace, which is more than enough to oxidize the beer over time. As cold crashing continues, the O2 concentration will rise towards 96,000 ppm. And, as the O2 concentration rises, the rate of absorption of O2 into the beer will increase, allowing for even faster oxidation of the beer.
I don't have data on how fast O2 absorbs into the beer, nor how fast the actual beer oxidation occurs at cold crash temps. The only advice I can offer is to keep your cold crash time to the absolute minimum, and also minimize any agitation of the beer which could cause additional O2 absorption.
Brew on
A change from 70F to 50F is only a .15% change in volume. That doesn't equate to quarts of air. Regardless, I added a port to hook up to CO2 during the cold crash process.
Pinthouse Pizza Electric Jellyfish clone V1 going.View attachment 584776View attachment 584777
But that's only part of the equation.
What's the other part? In a 5gal batch .15% is equivalent to removing 1oz of liquid. I still dont think that equals quarts of air.
My PM version. For dry hopping 3/4 at day 3 fermentaion and 1/4 keg hops.Need this recipe! ^^^
But that's only part of the equation.
This post is gold. It was in response to me expressing skepticism about the oxidation from cold crashing being significant.
So if you've got 1-2 gallons of headspace, you're looking at 2-4 quarts of air.
I just ordered two of these from Bobby, which seem like a simple and cheap solution: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ccguardianv2.htm
If I was your mail man, that would have been taxed.
Just kegged my second NEIPA batch last night and saw this:
View attachment 582994
I dry hopped during high krausen (48hrs after pitching). I'm thinking (hoping) that it was just krausen/foam stuck on the dry hops that never dropped out. Beer smells and tastes great, so I don't think it's an infection. Anyone else run into this?
Best batch I've brewed yet.Lol looks like it was good
Crusher is one of my favs.Crusher is delectable
A change from 70F to 50F is only a .15% change in volume. That doesn't equate to quarts of air. Regardless, I added a port to hook up to CO2 during the cold crash process.
Pinthouse Pizza Electric Jellyfish clone V1 going.View attachment 584776View attachment 584777
I just hooked up my new cold crash guardian today! Thanks Bobby!Especially when using a leaky sealed bucket, you have to be super careful to set your CO2 pressure above zero but below the pressure which will leak out of the lid seal otherwise you can be down a pound of CO2 or more by the time you cold crash.
For a data point, when I cold crash a typical 6 gallon batch in a 7.25g fermonster, it draws in about 1.5 quarts (eyeballed) from 65f to 35f. I'd love to refer to a formula that accounts for it, across both the liquid and headspace, but it's just easier to tell you to trust me as I've observed it at least 10 times in a row recently.
Interesting! Let us know how it works for you.I just hooked up my new cold crash guardian today! Thanks Bobby!
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ccguardianv2.htm
Lastest NEIPA. My 1st try a few days ago disappointed me. 1 week bottled now and no diacetyl nor oxygenation. Not a substantial amount of flavor but ill take it. Left is a Pinthouse Pizza DIPA. Right is mine.
[ATTACH
My PM version. For dry hopping 3/4 at day 3 fermentaion and 1/4 keg hops. View attachment 584808View attachment 584809
If you haven't had EJ for a couple years and if the batch is fresh, get ready to be Wow'ed! They've modified the recipe, incorporated lupilin powder and have it down now. Good tasting!Hey PM, how did you come up with the Electric Jellyfish recipe? I was in Austin last weekend and stopped in to get a crowler. Haven't had it for a couple of years so looking forward to cracking open that bad boy soon. Have you been to Hi Sign yet? Their Hi-C NEIPA was pretty solid. Especially the aroma which may have been better than the taste.
Sorry for the absence. It has been hectic with life around my house.
I got the beer bottled. I ended up going:
Primary to
Bottling bucket to
Bottle.
I used 'Grolsch' style bottles with the bails. That went quite well.
When I transferred to the bottling bucket, the amount of hops in the bottom of the primary fermenting bucket was crazy. I can imagine there is some sort of work around to this but I am not aware of it yet. I estimate about 5 liters loss total, which I find quite high, but I have no frame of reference so that could be normal.
I bought some drops to carbonate, that was super easy. I may use these more often!
I purged the bottles with some co2 gas I found in a nifty can made for wine drinkers, that was also pretty cool. The filling went smoothly too.
The hop aroma was out of this world! The room really became saturated with the hops from the beer. It should be carbonated up soon and I will be able to try it out. I have an idea what I am going for in terms of flavor so hopefully this puts me in the right direction.
I will be sure to report back with a tasting and glass photo. I am not planning on brewing again until late September, when the temperatures drop back down again. It has been crazy hot in Switzerland, one of the hottest summers in the last 11 years. My normally stable cellar temperature even raised up 3 degrees.
The next time I am going to try using cryo hops to cut down on waste and look into using something to see if I can further reduce waste. I ended up with about 15 usable liters, which translated to roughly 46 33cl bottles of beer. the plan is to split it three ways with my partners.
I also have some money earmarked for gear purchases too. new boil kettles and a conical fermenter.
A big, big thanks to everyone who helped me through this! Onward and upward!
Depends on how quick your quickly is. Mine is mostly gone after drinking 2/3rds of the pint so maybe 3-4 minutes? No proven idea how to extend it.great recipe... Only thing I notice is the "head" does not last... Been sitting on 12psi for the past couple weeks and produces a full head on each pour but quickly diminishes.
Anyone else seeing this?
Enter your email address to join: