New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Here's my latest batch and first time using WLP066. I believe the manufactured date on my vial was also a late March date. I made a 1.5L starter, chilled and decanted and then pitched 2/3rd of it and saved the rest for a future batch. It's my first time using this hop combination, but mouthfeel and yeast character seem very similar to WY1318. Probably one of the best that I've made in that department, but hard to top the Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy combo.

Below are the details:

Grain Bill: Using Braufessor's from post #5803
Mashed @155
Post-boil volume: 5.35G
Volume Into Fermenter (corny keg): 4.25G

OG: 1.066
FG: 1.016

Hops:
0.85oz Warrior @60min
1oz each Citra/Vic Secret/Enigma @FO
1oz each Citra/Vic Secret/Enigma 20min hop stand @155
1oz each Citra/Vic Secret/Enigma dry hop at 60 hours post-pitch
1oz each Citra/Vic Secret/Enigma dry hop @ day 6, crashed on day 9 and left in keg

I'm not sure how to explain all the variation in attenuation people are seeing with this relatively new yeast product from White Labs, but I wouldn't hesitate to use it again after this batch. I think my next NEIPA I may split between WY1318 and WLP066 to compare the two to see if I can detect any differences or have a preference for either one. I've sometimes gotten a hop burn that doesn't fade after kegging with WY1318, which was one of my reasons for trying WLP066 this time. No hop burn in this one, but don't have enough data to make any claims that its any different from WY1318 in that respect yet.

I just have to say, that glass is amazing! Where did you find something so awesome?
 
This is my plan for this w/e.

Recipe Type: All Grain BIAB
Yeast: Imperial A24 Dry Hop
Batch Size (Gallons): 3.25
Original Gravity: 1.060
Final Gravity: 1.014
IBU: 41
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 5 SRM
ABV: 6
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 10 Days at 65 degrees

Grain Bill
65% 2 Row
13% Vienna
10% Red Wheat
10% Flaked Oats
2% Melanoidin - simply used to get SRM to 5

Mash

BIAB Single Infusion mash for 75 minutes at 152 degrees.

Boil & Hops
.4 oz. Otto Supreme 14.7 AA @ 60 min. (higheset AA I have on hand)
1.5 oz. Centennial 8.3 AA, .8 oz Citra 12 AA, and .7 oz Mosaic 11 AA @ 30 min.
1.5 oz. Centennial 8.3 AA, .8 oz Citra 12 AA, and .7 oz Mosaic 11 AA, 30 min. Whirilpool @170F

Dryhop

1.5 oz. Centennial 8.3 AA, .8 oz Citra 12 AA, and .7 oz Mosaic 11 AA 4 days
 
I've ran into hop burn twice now with 1318. I think we may look to switch our yeast out to something else if the currently fermenting batch ends up the same way.
 
I've ran into hop burn twice now with 1318. I think we may look to switch our yeast out to something else if the currently fermenting batch ends up the same way.

Do you know when in the fermentation you added dry hops to those batches which had the burn? I wish I could figure out how to consistently avoid it with that yeast...
 
I just have to say, that glass is amazing! Where did you find something so awesome?

Haha, thanks! Yeah - it's become my go-to glass for hops since I got it earlier this month. Unfortunately, it was part of a limited run, but I bought it from here:

https://glasstomouth.beer/

Only found out about the site a couple months ago, but I'll be keeping an eye on it for other unique designs in the future!
 
Check out this CRAZY ipa I had. Collective Arts Liquid Art Fest. It was SO chunky and tasted like a sort of beery mango lassi. weird beer. Billed as a milkshake IPA.

uc


uc
 
Check out this CRAZY ipa I had. Collective Arts Liquid Art Fest. It was SO chunky and tasted like a sort of beery mango lassi. weird beer. Billed as a milkshake IPA.

uc


uc

Yeah..... You are more courageous than me. I would have sent that back for something else or another pour. It looks like the first pour off the keg / bottom of brite tank with all of the gunk that settled out.
 
Posted this on the Isolated Tree House thread and wanted to share here as well:

If you want to elevate softness, try krausening the beer. I tried it with a beer I just made and it’s definitely softer. Inspiration came from a post from Hill Farmstead about krausening Mary (their Pilsner) and how soft they get it. Also got inspiration from wanting to make a beer like Bright. Tree House is known to use American Ale yeast in Bright but still gets the beer so soft. American Ale yeast in my mind is not soft.

When drinking the beer, it has a mouthfeel that almost feels under carbed because it’s not ‘prickly’ but swish the beer around in the glass or in your mouth and you get bubbles. This beer is 90% Maris Otter, 5% White Wheat and 5% Carapils. I wonder how much more mouthfeel I could get if I added oats.

If you haven’t tried krausening, I’d recommend giving it a try.

IMG_8185.jpg
 
Posted this on the Isolated Tree House thread and wanted to share here as well:

If you want to elevate softness, try krausening the beer. I tried it with a beer I just made and it’s definitely softer. Inspiration came from a post from Hill Farmstead about krausening Mary (their Pilsner) and how soft they get it. Also got inspiration from wanting to make a beer like Bright. Tree House is known to use American Ale yeast in Bright but still gets the beer so soft. American Ale yeast in my mind is not soft.

When drinking the beer, it has a mouthfeel that almost feels under carbed because it’s not ‘prickly’ but swish the beer around in the glass or in your mouth and you get bubbles. This beer is 90% Maris Otter, 5% White Wheat and 5% Carapils. I wonder how much more mouthfeel I could get if I added oats.

If you haven’t tried krausening, I’d recommend giving it a try.

View attachment 578229

Looks great.... do you have a specific process/steps you use for krausening?? I have went to spunding on a number of my beers and liked the result. Just curious how you are going about this.
 
Looks great.... do you have a specific process/steps you use for krausening?? I have went to spunding on a number of my beers and liked the result. Just curious how you are going about this.

Thanks, Brau. BrewersFriend has a calculator for gyle/krausening which I used. I reserved the amount of wort the calculator said to from brew day. Put it in a sanitized growler in the fridge. Then from there it’s all about timing. How long do you want the beer in the fermenter to ferment. Pull the growler from the fridge about a day and a half before kegging. Allow krausen wort to get to room temp. Pitch the yeast in the wort for krausening. I let it go about 18 hours before transferring beer from fermenter and krausened beer to keg. I siphoned the beer from the fermenter and just poured the krausened beer into the keg, nothing fancy. Let the keg sit three days at 70* to carb. Put the keg in the kegerator for 24 hours and then put gas on it. When I put gas on it it said I had 20 PSI in the keg so I had to bleed it some. Ideally you won’t have to bleed it to keep all the aroma in there.
 
About the 12th time I've brewed and modified this beer. This is a 5.6% version, brewed it for an event. Kicked the keg in under two hours, mouthfeel was on point!

Breakfast Club Freedom
Type: All Grain
Batch Size: 7.85 gal
Boil Size: 9.85 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
End of Boil Vol: 8.70 gal
Final Bottling Vol: 7.35 gal
Efficiency: 68.00 %

2L GigaYeast Double Pitch - GY054 Vermont IPA Yeast yeast starter used

Mash Ingredients

Amt Name Type
12 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain
3 lbs White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain
2 lbs Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain
1 lbs 4.0 oz Barley, Flaked (1.7 SRM) Grain
11.0 oz Honey Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain

Mashed at 156 for 60 minutes
Sparged at 168 for 15 minutes

Boil Ingredients

Amt Name Type
1 lbs 3.2 oz Milk Sugar (Lactose) [Boil] (0.0 SRM) Sugar
1.20 oz Magnum [12.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop
0.75 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 5.0 mins) Fining
Steeped Hops

Amt Name Type
3.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 30.0 min Hop
3.00 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 30.0 min Hop

Dry Hop - 36 Hours Post Pitching Yeast
Amt Name
6.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days
6.00 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days
4.00 oz Calypso [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days

Water Profile: Ca 129 | Mg 5 | Na 0 | SO4 102 | Cl 169

Fermented under pressure (spunding valve) at 66 degrees, after 5 days rose to 72 degrees over the course of 4 days. Cold crashed on day 12, transfered to serving keg on day 14.

View media item 69264
 
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Thanks, Brau. BrewersFriend has a calculator for gyle/krausening which I used. I reserved the amount of wort the calculator said to from brew day. Put it in a sanitized growler in the fridge. Then from there it’s all about timing. How long do you want the beer in the fermenter to ferment. Pull the growler from the fridge about a day and a half before kegging. Allow krausen wort to get to room temp. Pitch the yeast in the wort for krausening. I let it go about 18 hours before transferring beer from fermenter and krausened beer to keg. I siphoned the beer from the fermenter and just poured the krausened beer into the keg, nothing fancy. Let the keg sit three days at 70* to carb. Put the keg in the kegerator for 24 hours and then put gas on it. When I put gas on it it said I had 20 PSI in the keg so I had to bleed it some. Ideally you won’t have to bleed it to keep all the aroma in there.

What was the pressure of the keg after three days at 70 and before chilling?
 
What was the pressure of the keg after three days at 70 and before chilling?

When I hooked the gas up to the keg it shot up to 20 PSI. So I bled the keg to get it to the PSI I like to serve at. I don’t use a spunding valve, FYI.
 
When I hooked the gas up to the keg it shot up to 20 PSI. So I bled the keg to get it to the PSI I like to serve at. I don’t use a spunding valve, FYI.

So at 70 degrees and 20psi the carb level was at around 2.0 volumes. Also...next time don’t purge the keg before chilling....the pressure will level out to whatever that particular volume of co2 corresponds to at serving temp. For example if at 40 degrees the pressure would eventually level out to 6.8psi.
 
So at 70 degrees and 20psi the carb level was at around 2.0 volumes. Also...next time don’t purge the keg before chilling....the pressure will level out to whatever that particular volume of co2 corresponds to at serving temp. For example if at 40 degrees the pressure would eventually level out to 6.8psi.

I didn’t purge before chilling. I chilled and then hooked up the gas and the regulator shot up to 20 PSI. So then I bled the keg.
 
Im using a Fast Ferment. I would like to know when would you remove the first thrub while fermenting ?? I feel like leaving the hops in there for more than a week will impact taste and color ? I usually dry hop at 24-36 hours while high krausen and remove the bottom after about a week

Should i leave it longer?

I just kegged this and also use a Fastferment. I did not use any kind of filter while boiling so I had a lot of hop particulates floating around when I transferred to the Fastferment. Added the dry hops in a filter cartridge so they wouldn't break up so much at day 3. When I went to empty the ball at the end of one week it was packed full with hops settling from the boil. There was no liquid other than what the hops were holding, which wasn't a lot. I emptied it again a couple of days later to remove some of the yeast that had dropped along with more hops. The dry hops stayed in the whole time. Total time in the fermenter was 14 days. By then there was very little sediment in the ball. I did notice a little that came through while kegging. Just tried it today and I am very happy. This is my best beer yet.
Haze Beer3.jpg
 
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I've been brewing this style exclusively and I've always had problem with hop matter clogging the bottling wand AND the spigot! Last time I tested a remedy and found it to work pretty good! I cut a spigot sized hole on the cap of a keg hopper and installed it inside my bucket, in a bazooka filter like manner. I also had to drill a second spigot hole for it to fit in the bucket, as the original was too low. The result was great beer flow throughout the bottling, with no hop particles making their way in the bottles. I'm pretty excited by the result and would recommend it to anyone having the same problem.
 
Question for the "double dose" dryhoppers that use LODO:

How / when do you get that second dose in?

I have done a single large dryhop at ~80% attentuation on the last eight batches since incorporating cold side LODO (thanks @schematix) and am just not happy w/ the outcome. My brews have certainly lasted much longer w/o oxidizing (four months!) but the potency of the aroma & flavor is lacking compared to the DDH versions of same recipe.

I ferment in kegs and have the floatig diptube. I have done the whole ferment / serve in same vessel - same issue though. My assumption is that when the beer chills / crashes the yeast strip out some of the hop oils /aromatics. Subsequentlt By DDH after fermentation those can be reintroduced BUT risk oxidation... Advice?

FYI -
6gal wort into fermenter
6oz hops in whirlpool
8oz hops in dryhop
Yeast - either Conan or 1272

All is split between two kegs
 
I've done it a few ways but latest is simply ensuring I have a very full keg and dropping them in quickly after closed racking to spund. Full keg means less headspace for o2 to enter.

Yes there will be o2 ingress but the remaining fermentation should take care of it.

I've also experimented with water purging
the keg, adding the hops quickly and then fermentation purging until spund but I just don't like the idea of hops sitting at room temperature for days...Even if it's in an all CO2 environment.

I've also experimented with putting the gas disconnect on 2psi and pullling the prv so I can get the lid off and quickly toss the hops in and replace the lid. If you have cut gas dip tubes and a very full keg, this method doesn't work out so well though
 
Question for the "double dose" dryhoppers that use LODO:

How / when do you get that second dose in?

I have done a single large dryhop at ~80% attentuation on the last eight batches since incorporating cold side LODO (thanks @schematix) and am just not happy w/ the outcome. My brews have certainly lasted much longer w/o oxidizing (four months!) but the potency of the aroma & flavor is lacking compared to the DDH versions of same recipe.

I ferment in kegs and have the floatig diptube. I have done the whole ferment / serve in same vessel - same issue though. My assumption is that when the beer chills / crashes the yeast strip out some of the hop oils /aromatics. Subsequentlt By DDH after fermentation those can be reintroduced BUT risk oxidation... Advice?

FYI -
6gal wort into fermenter
6oz hops in whirlpool
8oz hops in dryhop
Yeast - either Conan or 1272

All is split between two kegs

Add more hops to your one dry hop addition.
 
Some thoughts... maybe pick and choose a couple of these

1. Add an additional dry hop dose very early, like at the 24 hour mark.

2. Add a dry hop at 1.020ish like usual.

3. Add a small amount of dry hops into the serving keg - contained in a tea ball or bag. Place into clean dry keg and use the fermentation gasses to purge.

4. Recirculate through a torpedo type device at tail end of active fermentation for a few hours.
 
Here's an idea that I've been pretty curious to apply to this recipe:

Mash at 145 and add enough table sugar to really dry this beer out. Then add enough lactose to get the final gravity back up to the 1.012 or so that you want it at. I wonder how much different the perception would be, and if you can get a nice juicy or creamy mouthfeel without being overly thick.
 
Here's an idea that I've been pretty curious to apply to this recipe:

Mash at 145 and add enough table sugar to really dry this beer out. Then add enough lactose to get the final gravity back up to the 1.012 or so that you want it at. I wonder how much different the perception would be, and if you can get a nice juicy or creamy mouthfeel without being overly thick.

Gotta be careful about just mashing at 145. That's below the gelatinization temps for a lot of malts. if you don't reach gel temps you won't be able to extract and convert the starches.
 
Anyone got any good recommendations as a dry yeast?
S-04 excluded. Last couple have been disappointing despite my attempts to rectify yeast issues.

Thinking yeasts like the Allen and stuff or mangrove jacks. Any experiences.
 
Anyone got any good recommendations as a dry yeast?
S-04 excluded. Last couple have been disappointing despite my attempts to rectify yeast issues.

Thinking yeasts like the Allen and stuff or mangrove jacks. Any experiences.

I like US-05. Gets nice and dry so you can let those hops pop.
 
3BC6E272-55C5-4E66-86E8-0CC33E8CF13F.jpeg


Been meaning to post this. First attempt. It certainly is oxidized (proof in color) as I don’t have pressurized fermentation. It came out a lot drier than anticipated. I used a “house yeast” (several generations of wyeast 1098)

Thanks for all the inspiration, folks.

A little more detail after some vast variations, for 5 gallons ...
Pilsner 5lbs, maris otter 5lbs, white wheat 1.5lbs, flaked oats 1lb, flaked barley 1lb
Simcoe, amarrilo, Citra, mosaic whirlpooled at 180 for 15mins. Same hops at kruessen.
Dumped trub (conical) after 5 day then adding same hops for 5 more days.
Kegged and force carb. Tapped 12 days after.
 
View attachment 578956

Been meaning to post this. First attempt. It certainly is oxidized (proof in color) as I don’t have pressurized fermentation. It came out a lot drier than anticipated. I used a “house yeast” (several generations of wyeast 1098)

Thanks for all the inspiration, folks.

A little more detail after some vast variations, for 5 gallons ...
Pilsner 5lbs, maris otter 5lbs, white wheat 1.5lbs, flaked oats 1lb, flaked barley 1lb
Simcoe, amarrilo, Citra, mosaic whirlpooled at 180 for 15mins. Same hops at kruessen.
Dumped trub (conical) after 5 day then adding same hops for 5 more days.
Kegged and force carb. Tapped 12 days after.

Oxidized? Doesn’t look like it to me. Does it taste like it’s oxidized?
 
Oxidized? Doesn’t look like it to me. Does it taste like it’s oxidized?
Well, I thought it looked darker from when I racked it. Maybe it’s not oxidized but the hop presence seems to have diminished compared to an earlier sample. It tastes like sunny delight/tang. Not bad for my first attempt. It was fun to make but don’t know I’ll be making neipas back to back.
 
Well, I thought it looked darker from when I racked it. Maybe it’s not oxidized but the hop presence seems to have diminished compared to an earlier sample. It tastes like sunny delight/tang. Not bad for my first attempt. It was fun to make but don’t know I’ll be making neipas back to back.

What do you think in your process is to blame for oxidation?
 
What do you think in your process is to blame for oxidation?
Because it was so exposed to oxygen. I just had a regular air lock that I took out everytime I dumped trub/yeast. And I used gravity for an open transfer to the keg. I didn’t have all the right stuff for closed fermentation. Since then I’ve now acquired all the gizmos I need to do it better next time.

Edit: another sample today ... tastes much better. Amazing what a few days wait will do. I know we’re supposed to drink this fresh but I guess my samples prooved it needed just a little more time.
 
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Ive been using 1318 for all of my NEIPAs so far with good results but am looking to try some new yeasts to mix it up. What is everyones favorite yeast to use other than 1318?
 
Ive been using 1318 for all of my NEIPAs so far with good results but am looking to try some new yeasts to mix it up. What is everyones favorite yeast to use other than 1318?

I'm a fan of

A38 Juice - Imperial Organic Yeast
WLP002 English Ale - White Labs Yeast

I've had good results with GigaYeast Double Pitch - GY054 Vermont IPA Yeast but I know there are a lot of stories about this strain being very finicky. I've used it twice so far and it behaved, but if you go with it just know that it can be troublesome.

90% of time time I'm using either A38, 1318, or WLP002 depending on the flavor I'm going for in my NEIPAs. I'll be using A24 Dry Hop - Imperial Organic Yeast in my next batch.
 
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