New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
- Thread starter Braufessor
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Do you mind sharing how much sugar? In a water suspension? Thx
jmcquesten
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Usually around like an 1/8 to 1/4 cup dissolved in the least amount of water possible (1/8 cup to 1/4 cup) heated in microwave til dissolved. I don't really stick to a specific measurement, just add enough to start a bit of fermentation. This has been enough to pressurize the keg after a few hours. Not sure if this small bit of fermentation is enough to consume whatever oxygen is left in the keg, but it sounds good in theory. I do liquid purge my kegs before filling, but then I have to open it to get my keg hopper in there, so I'm sure a some air gets in there.
I have had issues when I throw them in loose. I tried bagging them for a while with a really large bag to try to limit the utilization but was on the fence with the results. My new method has been to remove the poppets from the QD and the keg post during transfer and then add them back quickly after racking. Again, not ideal but it makes transfers easy and because there is active yeast it is cleaning up whatever O2 I'm introducing asap. Another method that could work is bagging the hops in the primary and then adding them loose in the keg with floating dip tubes...I haven't had a chance to try that method yet.
I take gravity readings around day 3 as that's usually when I'm getting close. If you can get the timing right, you don't really need a spunding valve...just a pressure gauge so you can monitor the progress. A spunding valve is nice though in case you spund too early (but then your precious aroma is let out!). I lean toward spunding late as I can always supplement and I hate having to release pressure/aroma at all once I've racked to the SV.
Use a priming calculator to determine how much sugar if you plan on naturally carbonating the keg using priming sugar. If you're just using sugar to start fermentation again to cover the racking process and you plan to force carb once it's in the keg then you can just add a little bit as jmcquesten stated
jpLV
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Finally got around to trying this recipe. I'm a sucker for this style lately. Followed Braufessor's latest take on it. Everything was going smoothly until I realized I was out of warrior and mosaic! I subbed out the warrior for apollo but I was sort of stuck with the mosaic missing. I took a chance and used some simcoe\nugget instead. I know flavors aren't the same but I thought it would be an interesting experiment considering its a cross breed of them. I plan to use the same substitution for the dry hops.
You can do a bio-transformation hop and end up with a brite IPA with a combination of kettle & keg finings + the right yeast. With whirlfloc, gelatin and US-05, I entered an IPA that received comments from both judges for "brilliant clarity" and even placed 2/34 in 21A. It seems there might be some validity to the theory during the bio-hop, yeast cells get coated with hop oils and it disturbs their ability to flocculate for certain strains. I have tried using finings with 1318 and US-04 and the results were not the same.
The first pic is the IPA. The second pic is a DIPA I did using the same process. The third pic came from the gravity sample of the DIPA. At that point, I was thinking it would end up hazy but as you can see in pic 2, it cleared up pretty good. I really did like the color of that gravity sample so it's on my short list to brew a hazy with that grain bill.
This is one of the early signs of oxidation in IPAs.
For comparison when using meticulous oxygen exclusion techniques, I’ve tapped a spunded IPA keg at 4.5 months old and it was still a juice bomb and remained that way until it was gone.
I have played with spunding quite a bit lately. But, the batch I have going now is the first time I have done the entire fermentation in the keg under pressure. I wanted to dry-hop in the keg but at 95F and 35 psi, it ain't happening. So, my plan is to put the spunding valve (set to 35 psi) on a purged receiving keg with the hops dangling in that keg. Then push to it with 40 psi. Any flaws with this approach?
Why so high? Why not 12PSI?
That gravity sample beer did look nice.
There's been talk about when to dry hop, many believing that you need to dry hop early to get bio-transformation to make the beer hazy.
I did an experiment recently.. I split a batch of IPA into 2 3gl carboys to ferment. Batch A, I dry hopped on day 4. Batch B, I dry hopped 1 day prior to cold crashing, 3 days prior to begging (so a 2 day cold crash).
The early DH batch, batch A, was much more clear than the late DH batch, Batch B. And batch B had a much brighter and fruitier taste. I was surprised. There were no other differences.
The DH for each 2.5gl was: 2oz Galaxy, 1oz Mosaic, 1oz Falconer's Flight.
At 95F, you need to be higher. I probably could have gone up to 40-45 psi. I have pushed OYL-057 to 90F with great results. @Northern_Brewer put me on two other Kweik strains (OYL-061, OYL-091) in another thread. Fermentation finished in under 72hrs with both of those strains so I won't end up with a hazy but more of a dry-hopped Farmhouse pale ale.
That is surprising. Same yeast?
Well done! Easily one of the coolest labels I've seen and definitely the most excited I have ever seen anyone get after taking a sip of beer lol
Just to be sure, set and forget is still force carbing. I think what you normally do is referred to as "burst carbing" where you hit it with a high psi for a day or longer than lower to serving pressure.
What we have been discussing in the thread is letting it carb naturally in the keg either using spunding or adding fermentables at packaging.
Oh - ya - both were LA3
Thanks. Im putting together a spunding valve right now on amazon. For thoseof you spunding with this beer, do you use a hose running from the gas post to the valve(sort of like a blow off tube) or are you ok with just connecting right to the disconnect ?
cheesebach
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Thanks for sharing your results. I wonder if maybe you hit your "early" batch a bit too late at day 4 for a true bio-transformation (if it's a real thing) to happen. The first time I brewed this style, i added the dry hop at day 3.5 when the fermentation was already nearing the end and that beer came out clearer than typical example of the style. Since then, I've been adding my first dry hop at 48 hours, at which point the beer is around 60-70% of the way through fermentation. Everything since that first batch has been quite hazy. It's still puzzling that your late dry hop batch came out noticeably hazier than the early one though.
That being said, that first batch had just as much juicy hop flavor and aroma as any of the others and didn't have any of the hop burn I've sometimes gotten in this style. Too bad it wasn't hazy enough for my haze crazed friends to accept it as a NEIPA though
stickyfinger
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Have you done a side by side of a fined version vs non-fined? I did one in an IPA (more west coast style) several months ago and i just couldn't tell them apart in triangle tests. Either could my wife. Oh, and hide that Cubs crap.
duelerx
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I also use a spunding valve and i just connect the spunding valve in the gas post.
lol, go Cubs go!!!
I have not done a triangle test with the same yeast. I posted the results a while back from keg fining 057, US-04 and 1318. The two that I fined ended up being noticeably more drinkable a week later so I ended up fining the third one.
On that note, I think I'm getting hop particles in the keg with my current process using that keg hopping technique from bear-flavored. I do like that technique and it doesn't alway happen but the batches I have going now are ~3 weeks in keg and still have a lot of burn/grassiness going on. I was even able to visibly see some particles on one of the kegs even though I have pulled about 6 glasses. With the batch I have going now, I started fermenting in the keg with the clear beer draught system. With all the good reports on those in this thread, I ordered 2 a while back and just received 8 more today. For my next batch, I'm thinking about doing day 0 dry hops in the keg, spunding, then cold crashing on day 6. I also plan on using more restraint with the whirlpool & dry hops. It seems like I have gotten more and more heavy handed with those additions recently and I'm wondering if that contributes to the lengthy conditioning time I have required lately.
The_Dirty_Spring
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Great reaction! Have you posted your recipe or process notes up-thread? Thanks!
Cubbies!
OP
OP
Those should be good substitutions. Apollo might give it a bit more dankness, but it should all work well together I would think.
MMJfan
Well-Known Member
GO CUBBIES!!!
This may be a little off topic....
I have made Braufessors recipe 5 times now and have been very happy with the results. This last time as I checked the SG prior to kegging the results were .018 and .015 at days 8 and 10. I kegged on day 12 and the SG was .020. All checks were done with the sample at 60F. Any ideas to explain this?
I have made Braufessors recipe 5 times now and have been very happy with the results. This last time as I checked the SG prior to kegging the results were .018 and .015 at days 8 and 10. I kegged on day 12 and the SG was .020. All checks were done with the sample at 60F. Any ideas to explain this?
stickyfinger
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refractometer or hydrometer? i’ve seen maybe .002 deviation from one measurement to another using a refractometer. it could be temperature, dissolved solids interference, diastatic activity in dryhop addition (should ultimately reduce the FG unless the yeast are dormant), too much beer consumption while measuring gravity.
^^^ +1 measurement error
I bought a digital refract and it even dithers about 0.1 Brix between measurements.
Standard cheap brew shop hydrometers are only good for course measurements. You really want a narrow range precision hydrometer if accuracy is your thing. I have 3 to cover 0-16.5 Plato in 0.1 Plato increments. All indications are that they are amazing tools.
I bought a digital refract and it even dithers about 0.1 Brix between measurements.
Standard cheap brew shop hydrometers are only good for course measurements. You really want a narrow range precision hydrometer if accuracy is your thing. I have 3 to cover 0-16.5 Plato in 0.1 Plato increments. All indications are that they are amazing tools.
It is a cheap hydrometer but it has always produced consistent results relative to the SG of the sample- i.e doesn't change over time in stable sample or read higher as fermentation progresses. I'll look into getting a precision unit though just to remove that variable. Two pints prior to taking readings would not produce these results either.
It could be the increased CO2 in solution, maybe bubbles sticking to the hydrometer? I was in a brewery the other day and saw a pro brewer taking a gravity reading, took the sample and then poured it back and forth between two pint glasses for some time to try and release as much CO2 from solution.
Go MMJ
bigplunkett
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I built a similar grain bill but goofed on the yeast is the haze possible with wyeast american 2? Galaxy cent and mandarin balvaria for hops.
Hmmm that's interesting. There definitely were not visible bubbles but agitating the sample would be something I should have done. It actually sat for 30 minutes in a measuring cup before I put it into the hydrometer jar. One of the mysteries of home brewing I guess.
popquizkid
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Wyeast American II (Anchor Liberty) definitely works well with this style. I personally have only used it once and do prefer 1318, but others have reported success with it as well.
Wyeast 1272 (American Ale 2) is supposedly similar to what Bissell uses (BSI A72) so you might be able to get some haze out of it.
stickyfinger
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I just did a split batch b/w 1272 and 1318, all else the same. Both tasted exactly the same in all triangle tests I was able to do. No way to tell them apart. They are both haze monsters, especially if you are using Galaxy. Just don't use WLP051 (not the same as 1272!)
My chest freezer just barely holds two 6.5 gallon Ale Pails. During fermentation so much Co2 is produced that it burns my nose whenever I raise the freezer lid to look inside. I don't worry about o2 getting into the fermenters when cold crashing. Becuase by that time the freezer is loaded with Co2.
