LakesideBrewing
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
Btw, this thread has the quickest response time of any threads on the forum!!
Btw, this thread has the quickest response time of any threads on the forum!!
Sorry, I think this been addressed, but what's the earliest that you could add the first dry hop charge? I'm on day three and fermentation has really slowed. I should dry hop asap, no?
2 months is nothing. I use 6-12 month old all the time.I am having a heck of a time getting my blond ale harvested yeast to revive. I used WLP 095 in the blonde and had 6 pint jars of yeast. Meant to brew NEIPA this weekend but two of the samples so far have not woke up. They are 2 months old. Is this too old? Everything else has been followed exactly regarding cleanliness, storage, reviving.... although I do not have a stir plate but keep agitating it every couple hours.
Single 6 ounce dry hop on day 2.
I wasn't happy with my results from a hop spider. I am pretty happy with my current setup though. I use the trub dam from SS Brewtech - whirlpool, trub rest, then use gravity to fill the carboy instead of the pump as to not disturb the cone. This is from a 15 gallon batch with 31oz hops in there.View attachment 547962
Did SS discontinue the trub dam?
Not that I'm aware of. But...looking at their site, it appears the only way to get one is if you buy it with a kettle attached to it.
If you're interested in one, it wouldn't hurt to shoot them a message to see if they'd be willing to sell you just the dam.
I am having a heck of a time getting my blond ale harvested yeast to revive. I used WLP 095 in the blonde and had 6 pint jars of yeast. Meant to brew NEIPA this weekend but two of the samples so far have not woke up. They are 2 months old. Is this too old? Everything else has been followed exactly regarding cleanliness, storage, reviving.... although I do not have a stir plate but keep agitating it every couple hours.
Can you tell me more about it? How exactly does it work? Are you seeing big benefits from it?
There's not much to it really. It just sits in front of the dip tube to block a good portion of the trub from ending up in your fermenter. Whether or not this is important is up for debate. But, I am a proponent of minimizing trub in the fermenter based on my experience (see post 5391 in this thread). There are plenty of folks who feel trub in the fermenter isn't a major factor. There is even a brulosophy experiment on it. So you will have to decide for yourself whether or not this is important to you. If you're pleased with the results you're getting, probably no need to change anything.
There are other options to achieve something similar. I tried a hop spider and personally, I was not happy with the results. I was using the same recipes that I used to use on my propane system with a false bottom and I felt my IPA's were lackluster in comparison. I probably could have adjusted my hopping rates and continued with the hop spider. But, I was ready to start doing bigger batches anyhow and I went with the SS Brewtech kettle. The trub dam/whirlpool allows me to leave the hops loose similar to my old propane system.
I am having a heck of a time getting my blond ale harvested yeast to revive. I used WLP 095 in the blonde and had 6 pint jars of yeast. Meant to brew NEIPA this weekend but two of the samples so far have not woke up. They are 2 months old. Is this too old? Everything else has been followed exactly regarding cleanliness, storage, reviving.... although I do not have a stir plate but keep agitating it every couple hours.
Will it get clogged if I whirlpool through a pump? I throw a considerable amount of hops into the whirlpool then cycle it via a pump. I'm worried about all the hops collecting at the dam and essentially clogging the dam.
Since you have 6 pints, I assume you're harvesting post fermentation. Try harvesting from your starter.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/yeast-harvesting-novel-approach.html
The slant that you get from this method will likely be more healthy than the yeast harvested from the bottom of your fermenter. This method is less of a hassle and I also like that it's a one for one swap. When I was harvesting from the fermenter, those mason jars started piling up in the fridge.
Assuming 2 months, Mr. Malty has your viability at 10%.Thanks I will try and do this from now on I actually just started harvesting but when I can't get one to kick off 24 hrs before brew day things get pretty tense in my house. I actually got one to regenerate which was left from a starter I did not use, made it 2 weeks after the original harvest so its a little younger. Still can't understand why the others seem dead.
Today is my 1st attempt at a NEIPA style beer. Used the "simple" method for water treatment in the first post.
I'm not worried about the following, just more curious about what I should expect. I hit the "flameout" addition on point, 160ºf addition was missed and I sat them at 150ºf for 30 minutes instead. Should I expect much difference here?
Also, I did Warrior for FWH and Citra/Simcoe/Amarillo for all additions @ 1oz each.
2 months is nothing. I use 6-12 month old all the time.
I had approx 1/2 inch of yeast in the jars with beer on top. Are you doing anything specific to wake the yeast up? Another replied that at 2 months viability would be 10% according to a Mr. Malty blog. I had one jar which was a starter I did not use & made about 10 days after the original harvest and it took off well, in fact I made and used it since the original post. I am now trying another jar, will know tomorrow if there is life in it
With this style, I feel like the minimum amount of trub/wort I leave behind when doing a straight transfer to fermenter with an auto-siphon is around 2G-2.5G from a 6.5G post boil volume. I'm getting a lot of hop material transferring by the time I get down to 2G remaining.
Sorry, I think this been addressed, but what's the earliest that you could add the first dry hop charge? I'm on day three and fermentation has really slowed. I should dry hop asap, no?
Wanted to ask again...
Hey all,
Quick questions about water chemistry for these beers (Sorry if this has been covered, if so, please point me to the post).
In one post I saw Braufessor talked about playing with the Sulfate:Chloride ratios to achieve different flavor profiles/mouthfeels for this type of beer. My question is, what types of flavors/feels does each type of adjustment lead to? What happens to hop/grain flavors and mouthfeel when you have a 1:1 ratio? 2:1 ratio? 1:2 ratio?
Result with WLP644, pineapple, pineapple, mango and pineapple. What a wonderful yeast for NEIPA!! So juicy and fruity. I mashed at 156, went from 1.060 to 1.008 and I can assure you that this is not dry at all. Not even near it. Dry hopped 6oz at day 2 until the end.
Switched Galaxy for El Dorado, it's the second time I do this and I like it more than galaxy.
For those who are tired of Conan and 1318, try this, you will not be disappointed!
Cheers
I accidently allowed mine to ferment at 73-74F and I want to dump it now...Yes, I made a 1.6L starter from a purepitch pack. It took only 3 hours to start bubbling.
According to my notes, it took 9 days to have a stable gravity. Fermented the whole time at 75-76F before I cold crash.
I accidently allowed mine to ferment at 73-74F and I want to dump it now...
With S04 dry yeast.
Anyone else fermenting this high?
Beer temp was 73/74Brulosophy took WLP002 to 76F (beer temp) and found that it was not offensive:
http://brulosophy.com/2015/05/11/fermentation-temperature-pt-2-english-ale-exbeeriment-results/
Did you have it at 73-74F ambient room temp or was the beer at 73-74F?
Beer temp was 73/74
Room was 66
I forgot to turn on my chiller on my conical.
Did you keep the bittering addition the same? (0.75 oz Warrior @ 60)
Result with WLP644, pineapple, pineapple, mango and pineapple. What a wonderful yeast for NEIPA!! So juicy and fruity. I mashed at 156, went from 1.060 to 1.008 and I can assure you that this is not dry at all. Not even near it. Dry hopped 6oz at day 2 until the end.
Switched Galaxy for El Dorado, it's the second time I do this and I like it more than galaxy.
For those who are tired of Conan and 1318, try this, you will not be disappointed!
I accidently allowed mine to ferment at 73-74F and I want to dump it now...
With S04 dry yeast.
Anyone else fermenting this high?
Mercene hop oil is volatile above 147F. Done many IPAs like this. Super juicy!Today is my 1st attempt at a NEIPA style beer. Used the "simple" method for water treatment in the first post.
I'm not worried about the following, just more curious about what I should expect. I hit the "flameout" addition on point, 160ºf addition was missed and I sat them at 150ºf for 30 minutes instead. Should I expect much difference here?
Also, I did Warrior for FWH and Citra/Simcoe/Amarillo for all additions @ 1oz each.
I wouldn't dump anything I brewed that came out with alcohol and a tolerable taste. Does that make me an alcoholic, or just "frugle"?i finish at 73 with 1318, but start at 68 for 2 days, then bump it up 1 degree per day. I personally wouldn't dump it, even if it tastes weird now. I have found most beers taste weird early on, and 3 weeks after bottling they magically seem to be just fine... maybe not optimal, but perfectly drinkable.
Result with WLP644, pineapple, pineapple, mango and pineapple. What a wonderful yeast for NEIPA!! So juicy and fruity. I mashed at 156, went from 1.060 to 1.008 and I can assure you that this is not dry at all. Not even near it. Dry hopped 6oz at day 2 until the end.
Switched Galaxy for El Dorado, it's the second time I do this and I like it more than galaxy.
For those who are tired of Conan and 1318, try this, you will not be disappointed!
Cheers
I searched the thread but didn't find much about non-chill methods for this style. I have coils to force cool, but was considering non-chill as a way to split up the brewing process between 2 evenings, and wondering what effect if any people might have found that letting the wort cool slowly had on whirlpool hop rates.
yesDid you keep the bittering addition the same? (0.75 oz Warrior @ 60)
I did not see if you said anywhere that you made an starter..... what do you mean when you say "revive?" When I take a jar of yeast out that I have harvested, I always make a brand new 1L starter with the yeast. I decant the beer off the top of the yeast down the drain, and then add the yeast to a flask with 1L of 1.035 wort. Not sure if you are making a new starter or just taking the jar out and waiting for it to do something.I am having a heck of a time getting my blond ale harvested yeast to revive. I used WLP 095 in the blonde and had 6 pint jars of yeast. Meant to brew NEIPA this weekend but two of the samples so far have not woke up. They are 2 months old. Is this too old? Everything else has been followed exactly regarding cleanliness, storage, reviving.... although I do not have a stir plate but keep agitating it every couple hours.
I did not see if you said anywhere that you made an starter..... what do you mean when you say "revive?" When I take a jar of yeast out that I have harvested, I always make a brand new 1L starter with the yeast. I decant the beer off the top of the yeast down the drain, and then add the yeast to a flask with 1L of 1.035 wort. Not sure if you are making a new starter or just taking the jar out and waiting for it to do something.
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