New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

Yakima 728
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There is a long-running thread here on HBT regarding this style going 'dark and murky' after a few weeks. Anyone having this issue?
 
jmogator said:
So, I brewed this with my new HERMS setup. Mash @154, hop stand for 1 hour at 160. Followed the revised recipe with 1.06 OG. Due to travel, couldn't fit in the desired hop/fermentation schedule. Fermented out for 14 days with no dry hop. Tasted, and it was phenomenal. So I decided to dry hop it according to the first dry hop schedule in the recipe, but didn't get around to getting it off the hops for another 12 days.

I just kegged it (oxygen-free), and the hop bitterness overwhelm and are harsh. I suppose this is from sitting on the hops too long. Has anyone else experienced this? Next time, I think I'll try for natural carb. via spunding valve, and a total fermentation time of 10 days (racking to serving keg after day 6). Thoughts?
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Give it a few weeks. Mine are always harsh when I get them. There are lots of hop particles in suspension that will drop out as it sits in the kegerator. After those drop out, the harshness should mellow. For me, it takes a few weeks for that to happen.
 
I posted in the other thread too, but count me as one of the many people who have had oxidation issues that caused darkening color and "malty" flavor changes with this style when bottle conditioning, only to have those issues disappear when I switched to kegging.

I completely purge my keg of O2 by filling with starsan and then pushing it out with CO2. I attach my racking hose to a 5/16 barb on a liquid disconnect and fill through the liquid post to avoid opening the keg and letting in O2 that way. I'm not setup to push out of my fermenting buckets with CO2, so I pull a slight vacuum on my keg via the gas post to help the transfer.

Simply opening the PRV on the keg might work for most, but I believe the reason I had problems that way is because I'm using a float that draws beer from just below the surface. As the keg fills the float rises and requires more force to fill because the beer has to go up a length of flexible tubing. Before the vacuum I was able to fill my 2.5 gal keg, but my 5 gal kegs would stop about half way.
 
hezagenius said:
Yeah, lactose brings something that I've yet to get from any other source. The one beer I used lactose in had the best mouthfeel of any beer I've ever made. But it also had a little too much sweetness. I used 0.5# lactose. I need to work on this a little to figure out how to keep that mouthfeel but reduce the sweetness.
Click to expand...

Nice, Gives me some good information for Milkshake IPA.
I think I'll start with 5 - 6 oz. mash low (148F)
70% Pilsner / 20% Wheat / 10% Flaked Oats (1.064)
add peaches
dryhop with mosaic galaxy and citra.
boil additions columbus FWH / 5min / 0min

WLP 007 or East coast
 
murphyslaw said:
___________________________________
On another note, has anyone used conan to make an english porter or similar beer? I brewed one sunday more and than 48 hours after pitching some harvested WLP002 I had absolutely no activity. I just pitched 2 of my remaining 4 jars of the giga yeast vermont IPA slurry I had harvested from the blonde ale.
Click to expand...

I know i'm late to comment (just catching up on 20+ pages of this thread now), but I have used Conan (The yeast bay variant) in both an RIS and a porter and been really happy with it. Fermented at 65 and slowly ramped to 67 over 5 days, then held there until day 10 (or whenever fermentation is done), and cold crash. Really clean fermentation, no fruitiness at all and both beers came out fantastic. I actually have a second batch of the porter fermenting right now that I can't wait for.


I need to make an IPA again, it's been too long.
 
ultravista said:
There is a long-running thread here on HBT regarding this style going 'dark and murky' after a few weeks. Anyone having this issue?
Click to expand...

I've seen that, and i have no idea what they are talking about. My bottled neipas look pretty much the same now as they did 4-5 weeks ago when i first tried them. They are not quite as opaque as the one I had on top at weldwerks, but IMHO that is a good thing. They seem to be as typically hazy as many of the pics I see here. The hops are starting to attenuate a little, so I may bump up the whirlpool and dryhops slightly for the ones I bottle.
 
motosapiens said:
I've seen that, and i have no idea what they are talking about. My bottled neipas look pretty much the same now as they did 4-5 weeks ago when i first tried them. They are not quite as opaque as the one I had on top at weldwerks, but IMHO that is a good thing. They seem to be as typically hazy as many of the pics I see here. The hops are starting to attenuate a little, so I may bump up the whirlpool and dryhops slightly for the ones I bottle.
Click to expand...

oxidation is basically the gist of it i think?
 
as an aside on kegging, i finally purged correctly last time! take off the keg in post and let all of the air run out of it after inverting the keg. then, put it together while the keg is completely purged. before, i trusted the air was out after opening the PRV or depressing the CO2 on poppet. This way all air can be purged. I didn't get it when someone mentioned it earlier.
 
crusader1612 said:
oxidation is basically the gist of it i think?
Click to expand...

so they say. No idea how they do it. Perhaps my palate is not sophisticated enough to pick it up. I've been bottling for 26 years and not yet had a beer that I could detect any oxygenation or staling.
 
cegan09 said:
I know i'm late to comment (just catching up on 20+ pages of this thread now), but I have used Conan (The yeast bay variant) in both an RIS and a porter and been really happy with it. Fermented at 65 and slowly ramped to 67 over 5 days, then held there until day 10 (or whenever fermentation is done), and cold crash. Really clean fermentation, no fruitiness at all and both beers came out fantastic. I actually have a second batch of the porter fermenting right now that I can't wait for.


I need to make an IPA again, it's been too long.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that's comforting to hear. Mine is still fermenting away and I had high hopes that the beer would do well at some upcoming competitions.
 
@braufesser quick question, you may have answered this but I'm not all the way through the thread. Do you transfer from primary under pressure into a purged keg? The reason I ask, I transfer from a PET carboy under CO2 pressure into an 02 purged keg. I took your idea of transferring into a keg and dry hopping in the keg with the hop screen and dip tube screen. My only concern is that since I transfer into the out port to fill the keg. I'm wondering if this dip tube screen will work against me. As in it will catch any Hop debris coming into the keg and clog up my dip tube and theoretically stopping me from transferring into the keg. Any thoughts? Have you done it this way or anyone else in the forum tried it this way????
 
EcuPirate07 said:
@braufesser quick question, you may have answered this but I'm not all the way through the thread. Do you transfer from primary under pressure into a purged keg? The reason I ask, I transfer from a PET carboy under CO2 pressure into an 02 purged keg. I took your idea of transferring into a keg and dry hopping in the keg with the hop screen and dip tube screen. My only concern is that since I transfer into the out port to fill the keg. I'm wondering if this dip tube screen will work against me. As in it will catch any Hop debris coming into the keg and clog up my dip tube and theoretically stopping me from transferring into the keg. Any thoughts? Have you done it this way or anyone else in the forum tried it this way????
Click to expand...

Yeah - if you try to transfer into a dry hop keg, through dip tube screen, under pressure.... I think you would have problems. When I used dry hop keg, I just transferred through tubing to bottom of keg.

I have done a few batches recently with no dry hop keg - both dry hops in primary and then transfer down dip tube.... no screen on dip tube. That has worked well. My beers drop out pretty well, with most debris falling into cone of SS brew bucket.
 
Braufessor said:
Yeah - if you try to transfer into a dry hop keg, through dip tube screen, under pressure.... I think you would have problems. When I used dry hop keg, I just transferred through tubing to bottom of keg.

I have done a few batches recently with no dry hop keg - both dry hops in primary and then transfer down dip tube.... no screen on dip tube. That has worked well. My beers drop out pretty well, with most debris falling into cone of SS brew bucket.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I was all ready to go in a couple days and then that thought popped in my head. So have you done away with the dip tube screen and the hop screen when transferring to the keg? I've transferred to kegs under pressure multiple times just not with the screens.
 
EcuPirate07 said:
Thanks, I was all ready to go in a couple days and then that thought popped in my head. So have you done away with the dip tube screen and the hop screen when transferring to the keg? I've transferred to kegs under pressure multiple times just not with the screens.
Click to expand...

I only used the screen because I was putting 3 ounces of lose dry hops in a dry hop keg and then jumping it to a serving keg. That helped filter the hops out when transferring. If I was not doing that, I probably would not use the screen.
 
So what water profile have you guys played with this recipe?, is 2:1 Chloride to Sulfate still a good approach?
 
motosapiens said:
so they say. No idea how they do it. Perhaps my palate is not sophisticated enough to pick it up. I've been bottling for 26 years and not yet had a beer that I could detect any oxygenation or staling.
Click to expand...

I'd say general inexperience. Kegging also helps.... ALOT

Some of the pictures I've seen over on that thread is pretty bad, that amount of oxidation discolouring is amazing.
 
duelerx said:
So what water profile have you guys played with this recipe?, is 2:1 Chloride to Sulfate still a good approach?
Click to expand...

my first two i used the same recipe and went 170:50 chloride/sulfate in one, and around 60:150 in the other to test. Both turned out tasty, but pretty obviously different. At first I preferred the high chloride version, then as the hops started to mellow after a couple weeks I liked the high sulfate version.

bottom line is for the next one i'm going to bump up the dry hops a smidge, and shoot for 170:100-120 chloride to sulfate. I advise you to taste and see what you think. I have some theories as to why I think what I think, but more testing, brewing, and drinking is required before publication. ;)
 
I need some yeast help on this.
Heading out of town first thing tomorrow a.m. Went by local shop today to get grain for my third round of NE style. Back in town on Monday morning and going to brew then.
LHBS out of London III and out of Conan. Will check shops based on my trip this weekend to find 1318 (Of first two batches, like 1318 better than Conan), but I have Wyeast West Yorkshire on hand. If I can't find 1318 or suitable replacement and end up brewing on Monday, any thoughts on West Yorkie with this style?
Also, beyond London III and Conan, other alternative yeasts for this style?
 
doublebogey10 said:
I need some yeast help on this.
Heading out of town first thing tomorrow a.m. Went by local shop today to get grain for my third round of NE style. Back in town on Monday morning and going to brew then.
LHBS out of London III and out of Conan. Will check shops based on my trip this weekend to find 1318 (Of first two batches, like 1318 better than Conan), but I have Wyeast West Yorkshire on hand. If I can't find 1318 or suitable replacement and end up brewing on Monday, any thoughts on West Yorkie with this style?
Also, beyond London III and Conan, other alternative yeasts for this style?
Click to expand...

For this style, one of my favorites is WLP095 - Burlington Ale. I've also used WY1450 - Denny's Favorite with success. I think the yeast is not as critical as the low bitterness and high hopping. Yeast is just a tool to modify the beer; you don't have to use 1318 or Conan.
 
Gonna be brewing another batch of this later this afternoon and have a couple questions.

1) I do BIAB 3 gallon batches and use 5 gallons of RO with no sparge water. Just to be clear, I should be using 1 tsp of Cacl + 1/2 tsp of gypsum in total to get me in the ballpark, correct?

2) my last batch came out great but I thought it could've been a little hoppier. I did a 5 oz dry hop at day 3 and there was a pretty thick layer of krausen on top. Do you guys cut a hole in the krausen to get the hops down into the beer? I feel like a majority of my hops stayed on top until around day 6 and maybe that's why it wasn't as hoppy
 
whovous said:
Isn't Burlington Ale more fruit from the Conan tree?
Click to expand...

From what I have gathered, it is closest to the primary ale strain used by Noonan at his brewpub in Burlington, VT. I think this strain was then taken by Kimmich from the Alchemist (as I think he worked for Noonan or knew him) and then it has warped into Conan as we know it. They may be the same, but I am not sure if they are different enough to be considered two strains at this point.
 
nnfdcane said:
Gonna be brewing another batch of this later this afternoon and have a couple questions.

1) I do BIAB 3 gallon batches and use 5 gallons of RO with no sparge water. Just to be clear, I should be using 1 tsp of Cacl + 1/2 tsp of gypsum in total to get me in the ballpark, correct?

2) my last batch came out great but I thought it could've been a little hoppier. I did a 5 oz dry hop at day 3 and there was a pretty thick layer of krausen on top. Do you guys cut a hole in the krausen to get the hops down into the beer? I feel like a majority of my hops stayed on top until around day 6 and maybe that's why it wasn't as hoppy
Click to expand...

If you have time, just swirl the carboy 1-2 times per day. You should get plenty of extraction.
 
I did gently swirl it several times but it didn't seem to help any of the hops get through the krausen. Most just stayed right on top
 
nnfdcane said:
I did gently swirl it several times but it didn't seem to help any of the hops get through the krausen. Most just stayed right on top
Click to expand...

Yes, that will happen. I think that might be avoided by chilling the beer down some but then you lose the benefit of the active yeast. I just live with the hops floating on top some. I think it is due to some CO2 pushing them up maybe.
 
nnfdcane said:
Gonna be brewing another batch of this later this afternoon and have a couple questions.

1) I do BIAB 3 gallon batches and use 5 gallons of RO with no sparge water. Just to be clear, I should be using 1 tsp of Cacl + 1/2 tsp of gypsum in total to get me in the ballpark, correct?
Click to expand...

Yep - that is right. You could also go with 1 tsp of each..... more gypsum will help the hops brighten up a bit.
 
Appreciate it guys. First batch was straight up RO, so looking forward to seeing how this batch turns out.

One other thing, I'm planning on buying a ph meter but for now I just grabbed some test strips from LHBS. If my mash ph is on the low side, should I add more CaCl to raise it up?
 
nnfdcane said:
Appreciate it guys. First batch was straight up RO, so looking forward to seeing how this batch turns out.

One other thing, I'm planning on buying a ph meter but for now I just grabbed some test strips from LHBS. If my mash ph is on the low side, should I add more CaCl to raise it up?
Click to expand...

I would not mess with it - at least not based on pH strips...... especially if the pH strips are not really good ones like colorphast strips. Cheap pH strips and cheap pH meters are probably worse than just using a water calculator with no pH meter at all.

If you use 100% RO water and those additions with this grain bill - your pH will be right in the ballpark of where you want it.

A cheap pH strip might lead you to believe you are "off" when you are actually fine.

Plus - if anything, your pH is going to be a touch to the high side (but within range). And, CaCl will not raise your pH, it will lower it.
 
I've never messed with ph before, I'll invest in a nice meter and worry about it then. Thank you!
 
nnfdcane said:
Gonna be brewing another batch of this later this afternoon and have a couple questions.

1) I do BIAB 3 gallon batches and use 5 gallons of RO with no sparge water. Just to be clear, I should be using 1 tsp of Cacl + 1/2 tsp of gypsum in total to get me in the ballpark, correct?
Click to expand...

With BIAB, when are you adding these?
 
doublebogey10 said:
I need some yeast help on this.
Heading out of town first thing tomorrow a.m. Went by local shop today to get grain for my third round of NE style. Back in town on Monday morning and going to brew then.
LHBS out of London III and out of Conan. Will check shops based on my trip this weekend to find 1318 (Of first two batches, like 1318 better than Conan), but I have Wyeast West Yorkshire on hand. If I can't find 1318 or suitable replacement and end up brewing on Monday, any thoughts on West Yorkie with this style?
Also, beyond London III and Conan, other alternative yeasts for this style?
Click to expand...

I've had success with WLP007 with this style.
 
EcuPirate07 said:
@braufesser quick question, you may have answered this but I'm not all the way through the thread. Do you transfer from primary under pressure into a purged keg? The reason I ask, I transfer from a PET carboy under CO2 pressure into an 02 purged keg. I took your idea of transferring into a keg and dry hopping in the keg with the hop screen and dip tube screen. My only concern is that since I transfer into the out port to fill the keg. I'm wondering if this dip tube screen will work against me. As in it will catch any Hop debris coming into the keg and clog up my dip tube and theoretically stopping me from transferring into the keg. Any thoughts? Have you done it this way or anyone else in the forum tried it this way????
Click to expand...

I do this without issue, the particles you may have transferred get pushed back out in the first pour. No big deal.
 

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