New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Mofoa said:
I know it has been said before, (OP confirmed their process in original post) in order to hit this style on the head, it is so IMPORTANT that you prevent any oxidation. To do that, you must minimize any contact with the air during the transfer. This means that using the standard auto-siphon from your bucket/carboy into keg is not going to cut it--and the flavor will off off--turn color.

Based on multiple forums--ideally, you will want to 1) purge the air out of your keg first, 2) then use C02 to transfer the beer out of the fermentor and into the keg. This will help ensure that the hops do not get exposed to air and will keep your aroma for a longer period and not turn your juicy brew into something that resembles an amber ale.

Google search for "transfer beer from fermentor into keg using C02" for further explanation/videos on youtube, etc.

You will also see a difference in your other IPA's by followng the above process.
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Couldn't agree more with this. Outside of a CO2 transfer I've also had great success transferring to a CO2 purged keg via gravity feed from my SS Brewbucket into the Keg out line.....
 
grassfeeder said:
Couldn't agree more with this. Outside of a CO2 transfer I've also had great success transferring to a CO2 purged keg via gravity feed from my SS Brewbucket into the Keg out line.....
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Perhaps I am slow, but can you share your method for the Brew bucket gravity feed? I have tried a closed transfer from the spigot/valve into a keg out line and it just sat there and doesn't move. I now use my speidels and pressurize transfer under co2 (light co2, very slowly) to the keg out line from the speidel spigot. But I'd like to use the bucket more.
 
droder1 said:
Perhaps I am slow, but can you share your method for the Brew bucket gravity feed? I have tried a closed transfer from the spigot/valve into a keg out line and it just sat there and doesn't move. I now use my speidels and pressurize transfer under co2 (light co2, very slowly) to the keg out line from the speidel spigot. But I'd like to use the bucket more.
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You've got to release the pressure valve on the keg and loosen the airlock on the brew bucket. While that makes it not totally a "closed" system, no O2 is going to penetrate the valve on the keg to make any difference what-so-ever.

It has worked flawlessly and I have yet to experience a single oxidized keg doing this.
 
So i brewed the OP's recipe on Saturday and pitched a healthy starter of Conan. I used two 1L starters, the first I grabbed a 1 pint mason jar and pitched a second liter into the remaining 800 ML. I ended up with almost 1/2" of clean yeast at the bottom of my 2L flask.
Pitched at 70, set chamber to 66. I had active fermentation when I woke up Saturday morning. Yesterday morning I bumped the temp to 67. Temps are based on insulated probe taped to carboy.
Anyways, I get home from work this evening and notice the little Krausen there was, has fallen and the fermentation seems to be dying down. Basically 48 hour from when I pitched.
Granted, I have never used Coan(Gigayeast vermont IPA) but its seems a little unsettling that fermentation seems to be finishing up so quickly. Seriously the Krausen was like maybe 1/2" thick at its highest.
I've really only used wlp001 in the past so that's all I have to compare it to.
My OG was 1.064 and mashed around 152.
 
I've used the same Conan (Gigayeast) and it finished up in 4-5 days. The initial version took a little longer but the 2nd and 3rd gen were pretty quick.
 
I brewed this a few weeks ago and finally got it kegged. It's still a little under carb'd but tastes fantastic. Reminds me very much of many other NE IPA's i've had.

PvKTOoi.png


I opted for Pearl Malt instead of Golden Promise and went Nugget for bittering and 100% Ariana in the whirlpool and DH. I feel the water profile for the town I live in works pretty well for this style, I didn't modify it at all and it came out pretty well rounded/soft in mouth-feel. The only issue I had was the golden pitch of gigayeast vermont ipa I had seemed to be a little sluggish. It never really took off but fermented down to 1.014 (OG: 1.055)
 
Looking to brew up a slightly modified version of my favorite NE IPA thus far, 80% English Pale Malt (this time I'm using Optic - last time was Pearl, which was awesome) and 20% flaked oats. I am going with Conan, as that is my favorite I have used thus far. I am still debating a couple things:

salts: last time I used 1:1 chloride to sulfate at 150 ppm each. I thought it was a bit dry on occasion, but overall I liked it a lot. I was debating dropping to a 75ppm:150ppm sulfate to chloride ratio for this one. Good idea?

hops: last time I did citra,mosaic galaxy, 6 oz in dry hop 1 and 6 oz in dry hop 2. This time I think i want to do a 100% citra and then the 1:1 citra-mosaic that people rave about, 6 gallons of each. Has anyone thrown in a few ounces after a day or two of fermentation. Thought it might be fun to add 2 oz at like day 2 or so, 6 oz at day 5, 6 oz at day 7-12 somewhere and then maybe 1-2 oz of citra in the keg.

oh, also, most of the time that i have added dry hops to the keg, i've found them to give a very dank quality that i did not love. the exception is citra. i did a 100% citra keg-hop in a barleywine one time that was awesome. i am thinking that maybe citra is a type of hop that can be keg-hopped with no dankness. anyone else have any input on keg-hopping with citra or other hops to get great flavor without the dank keg-hop character?
 
rtracer said:
So i brewed the OP's recipe on Saturday and pitched a healthy starter of Conan. I used two 1L starters, the first I grabbed a 1 pint mason jar and pitched a second liter into the remaining 800 ML. I ended up with almost 1/2" of clean yeast at the bottom of my 2L flask.
Pitched at 70, set chamber to 66. I had active fermentation when I woke up Saturday morning. Yesterday morning I bumped the temp to 67. Temps are based on insulated probe taped to carboy.
Anyways, I get home from work this evening and notice the little Krausen there was, has fallen and the fermentation seems to be dying down. Basically 48 hour from when I pitched.
Granted, I have never used Coan(Gigayeast vermont IPA) but its seems a little unsettling that fermentation seems to be finishing up so quickly. Seriously the Krausen was like maybe 1/2" thick at its highest.
I've really only used wlp001 in the past so that's all I have to compare it to.
My OG was 1.064 and mashed around 152.
Click to expand...


Did you take a gravity reading? That will tell you more than krausen ever will.
 
Has anybody tried to ferment a NEIPA with the Mangrove Jack's Liberty Bell Ale M36 (apparently former M79 or very similar)? The ester descriptions of kiwi, strawberry and Pear and the "silky smooth mouthfeel" sound intriguing to me.
 
stickyfinger said:
Looking to brew up a slightly modified version of my favorite NE IPA thus far, 80% English Pale Malt (this time I'm using Optic - last time was Pearl, which was awesome) and 20% flaked oats. I am going with Conan, as that is my favorite I have used thus far. I am still debating a couple things:

salts: last time I used 1:1 chloride to sulfate at 150 ppm each. I thought it was a bit dry on occasion, but overall I liked it a lot. I was debating dropping to a 75ppm:150ppm sulfate to chloride ratio for this one. Good idea?

hops: last time I did citra,mosaic galaxy, 6 oz in dry hop 1 and 6 oz in dry hop 2. This time I think i want to do a 100% citra and then the 1:1 citra-mosaic that people rave about, 6 gallons of each. Has anyone thrown in a few ounces after a day or two of fermentation. Thought it might be fun to add 2 oz at like day 2 or so, 6 oz at day 5, 6 oz at day 7-12 somewhere and then maybe 1-2 oz of citra in the keg.

oh, also, most of the time that i have added dry hops to the keg, i've found them to give a very dank quality that i did not love. the exception is citra. i did a 100% citra keg-hop in a barleywine one time that was awesome. i am thinking that maybe citra is a type of hop that can be keg-hopped with no dankness. anyone else have any input on keg-hopping with citra or other hops to get great flavor without the dank keg-hop character?
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I like the 20% flaked oats addition. I think you'll like that! I get my flaked grains close to 30%. Although lately I've tried using some white wheat at 10% and other flaked grains at 20%.

I have recently dropped salts to as low as 118 chloride and 34 sulfate, around 75 for calcium. I enjoy it a lot. I really don't get any dryness but still get some sharpness from the hops. Which I think is because of bitterness. My most recent batch I did used no bittering hops and all additions in the WP at 175* for one hour. Interested to see how it comes out.

I believe Scott Janish did an article that said it wouldn't be terrible to put hops in that early into fermentation or even before fermentation. Because of the yeast biotransformation. I believe it's hops high in linalool (sp?) provide that fruity character when added early into fermentation. I would love to try it but use a carboy and don't want to have to worry about fishing them out. I definitely wouldn't let them sit for the duration of fermentation and conditioning.
 
lasultana said:
Has anybody tried to ferment a NEIPA with the Mangrove Jack's Liberty Bell Ale M36 (apparently former M79 or very similar)? The ester descriptions of kiwi, strawberry and Pear and the "silky smooth mouthfeel" sound intriguing to me.
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I saw that yeast and am interested in it too but have not tried it. 1318 is so awesome, I think, that's it's hard to wanna switch.
 
Since I seem to be having issues with oxygenation, I want to deviate from the typical NEIPA until I can get my keg system set up.

What I'm thinking is going with a pale ale recipe, like a SNPA clone or Russian River Row 2 Hill 56 clone or an Oddsides Citra clone and use Conan or 1318. Bittering charge then late additions 15,10,0 and a 5 day DH of 1.5-3 oz (3 gal batch).

I've never had any oxidation issues with pale ales or any other type that I've brewed.

Thoughts?
 
droder1 said:
Perhaps I am slow, but can you share your method for the Brew bucket gravity feed? I have tried a closed transfer from the spigot/valve into a keg out line and it just sat there and doesn't move. I now use my speidels and pressurize transfer under co2 (light co2, very slowly) to the keg out line from the speidel spigot. But I'd like to use the bucket more.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I had a similar experience--even with the bucket lid half off and using my auto-siphon, I was able to collect 3 gallons and would not go any further after that. I tried to restart the siphon---but it would not take. Bottom of bucket was well over top of keg. PRV open and it was almost like it was "full".

Switched to C02 transfer with my Speidel after that.
 
lasultana said:
Has anybody tried to ferment a NEIPA with the Mangrove Jack's Liberty Bell Ale M36 (apparently former M79 or very similar)? The ester descriptions of kiwi, strawberry and Pear and the "silky smooth mouthfeel" sound intriguing to me.
Click to expand...

Not yet, but its on my list of things to try.
Although I'm a tad dubious now, as I tried a West coast style Pale Ale, made by a friend, and found the hops were a little too muted, but still a nicely brewed beer, it just lacked some punch. But it'd be worth a shot I reckon.
 
Do any of you guys use a plate chiller? I'm considering picking one up but can't decide if the pros outweigh the cons (clogs, etc), especially for this heavily hopped style.
 
scottsor said:
Do any of you guys use a plate chiller? I'm considering picking one up but can't decide if the pros outweigh the cons (clogs, etc), especially for this heavily hopped style.
Click to expand...

plate chillers are no doubt the most efficient chillers but not without the valid concerns you mention. If I lived in California where people freak out about spilled water or somewhere like Texas or Arizona where the ground water is scorching then I'd seriously consider a plate.

I live in Idaho where water is cheap & usually cool so I use a CFC.
 
scottsor said:
Do any of you guys use a plate chiller? I'm considering picking one up but can't decide if the pros outweigh the cons (clogs, etc), especially for this heavily hopped style.
Click to expand...

I am honestly a pretty big fan of a simple immersion chiller .... I don't really see a single advantage at all of a plate chiller to be honest. I suppose the supposed advantage is "faster" chilling time. However, the 30 seconds it takes to clean an immersion chiller compared to the longer time of cleaning (and actually never knowing if a plate chiller is ever clean) a plate chiller more than makes up that time differential.

Plus, in particular for beers like this one.... Tons of hops are easy to clean off of an immersion chiller and not so much out of the inside of a plate chiller.
 
Thanks for the info fellas. I'm planning on brewing a modified version of this next weekend. I'll report back with recipe and results shortly after.

Cheers
 
scottsor said:
Do any of you guys use a plate chiller? I'm considering picking one up but can't decide if the pros outweigh the cons (clogs, etc), especially for this heavily hopped style.
Click to expand...

I use a pump to whirlpool hops and just leave it running when I chill. Having a whirlpool and an immersion chiller will cool your wort down pretty fast.
 
Duffbrew said:
Brau, I thought you did an all Galaxy batch? Any news on how it turned out?
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It went into the dry hop keg last night. Serving keg tomorrow or sunday...... The sample from the fermenter (after 1 dry hop) was fantastic. Very optimistic about it. 1.5:1.5 Citra:Galaxy in all additions.
 
Here is my first pass... equal amounts Citra, Galaxy and Mosaic. Carbing still not quite there but aroma and taste are righteous...

Thanks to Brau and everyone else's feedback and comments.

IMG_0911.jpg
 
crusader1612 said:
Not yet, but its on my list of things to try.
Although I'm a tad dubious now, as I tried a West coast style Pale Ale, made by a friend, and found the hops were a little too muted, but still a nicely brewed beer, it just lacked some punch. But it'd be worth a shot I reckon.
Click to expand...

I might try a NEIPA with Mosaic, Vic Secret and German Comet (blueberry aroma :rockin:) and the M36. Also have the M44 and US-05 - that's West Coast though.
 
Schemy said:
Braufessor,



This has probably been asked somewhere in all this awesomeness. But have you used Rye Malt or Flaked Rye in any recipes? Thoughts on the use of Rye in this style.
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I think Briess makes a rye extract that can make your brew day go a lot smoother. I've stayed away due to the horror stories of gummy/stuck sparges related to rye.
 
armenianbrewer said:
A few pages back you can see my version where I used all MO for the base (88%) and my batch definitely came out dark as well, but I also had a higher gravity so I feel the slight maltier/darker and different hop usage actually turned out quite good... just came out more bitter than I wanted. Yet my version has zero sign of oxidation... just think that color might be due to the MO but I'll take another photo under better lighting as comparison
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I get a dark color from MO every time
 
rtracer said:
Brewed this yesterday, first time using flaked Oats ect. My brother who does not brew came over right as I was mashing in, first thing he says is "mmmm Oatmeal" haha.

Anyways, something I noticed that I have not heard mentioned is how slick, or do I even say, slimy the wort felt after mashing. I BAIB so I end up squeezing the bag. I am going to have to assume this is from all the flaked adjuncts?
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I think it's the proteins in the flaked oats that do this. I've noticed it on other beers like stouts with higher amounts before.
 
Brewing this today

OG 1.068
IBU's 74

80% Vienna Malt
10% Rye Malt
10% White Wheat Malt
.75 oz Centennial FWH
1 oz Centennial 15 min
3.5 oz Centennial 30 min Whirlpool
Yeastbay VT IPA yeast.

Water profile Shooting for

Ca 96
Mg 12
Na 28
SO4 67
Cl 128
HCO3 70
pH 5.2 - 5.4
 
Sipping on a pale ale I recently brewed with yeast that I harvested from a couple cans of Treehouse's Green. And I am stumped on the yeast. I am getting some Belgian qualities that I do not get from treehouse beers. Could be a brewing error on my part. Beer doesn't taste bad though. Can't really go wrong with a Galaxy/ mosaic hop combo. Has anybody else tried culturing yeast from treehouse cans?
 
rappinduke said:
Sipping on a pale ale I recently brewed with yeast that I harvested from a couple cans of Treehouse's Green. And I am stumped on the yeast. I am getting some Belgian qualities that I do not get from treehouse beers. Could be a brewing error on my part. Beer doesn't taste bad though. Can't really go wrong with a Galaxy/ mosaic hop combo. Has anybody else tried culturing yeast from treehouse cans?
Click to expand...


I have no idea what treehouse actually uses but that sounds a lot like Conan from Alchemist. If you get even a little over temp it will throw Belgian notes from what I've read (only used it once myself and it was fine). Plenty of threads on here about it if treehouse does indeed use the same yeast.
 

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