New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

Williams 728
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Going to take a crack at this recipe this weekend. Thanks for the tons of information in this thread. Convinced me to look at water too. Can't get a straight answer on my city's water report (I have found two and no one will tell me which is correct), so I'm just going to use distilled or RO this time. Can't wait.
 
Hey @Braufessor

Have you taken a gravity reading when you do your first dry hop? Just curious if that plays into the timing of your dry hop.
 
hezagenius said:
Hey @Braufessor

Have you taken a gravity reading when you do your first dry hop? Just curious if that plays into the timing of your dry hop.
Click to expand...

No..... I just brew it so much that I know it is not quite done at 5 days, and I want to get that first dry hop in when there is still a few more points of fermentation to go. I am sure the gravity is probably right around 1.015-1.018 at that point. There is still some Krausen on top when I throw the hops in. It bubbles slowly for another 1-3 days after that dry hop.

I like to mess with my beer as little as possible. Brew, chill, into fermenter, crack the lid at Day 5 for the dry hop, close it back up. Day 12 is the first time I sample it..... I drain the first cup or so off (usually has yeast and trub in it) use that for a gravity reading - but mainly for curiosity, because I am putting the beer in the dry hopping keg at that point anyway. I usually pour a little taster glass out of the fermenter too just to see how it tastes.

I just never really take gravity readings at multiple times. I have brewed a lot..... if your mash is good, if your yeast is healthy and active, if your fermentation temp is good..... the yeast just never screw up their end of the job.
 
I like the refractometer because it takes a couple drops and you can do it right after flameout because the temp stabilizes so quickly with that small a fluid sample. Then (using a calculator) take a sample at any time you have any fermented beer at all (from a transfer) and you aren't "wasting" much on the sample and it takes an extra 15 seconds
 
Braufessor said:
No..... I just brew it so much that I know it is not quite done at 5 days, and I want to get that first dry hop in when there is still a few more points of fermentation to go. I am sure the gravity is probably right around 1.015-1.018 at that point. There is still some Krausen on top when I throw the hops in. It bubbles slowly for another 1-3 days after that dry hop.

I like to mess with my beer as little as possible. Brew, chill, into fermenter, crack the lid at Day 5 for the dry hop, close it back up. Day 12 is the first time I sample it..... I drain the first cup or so off (usually has yeast and trub in it) use that for a gravity reading - but mainly for curiosity, because I am putting the beer in the dry hopping keg at that point anyway. I usually pour a little taster glass out of the fermenter too just to see how it tastes.

I just never really take gravity readings at multiple times. I have brewed a lot..... if your mash is good, if your yeast is healthy and active, if your fermentation temp is good..... the yeast just never screw up their end of the job.
Click to expand...


So I got a beer going now with 1318. I know you said you don't have any or no experience with 1318, but with it being a top cropping yeast it has a huge krausen that I guess barely falls. You think it's ok to throw the dry hops in on top of that?

I'd like to do it before fermentation is done but it's a thick krausen for sure.

Anyone else with experience on dry hopping with 1318? I have it fermenting in a carboy and don't really want to weigh down a bag.
 
lilbova3 said:
So I got a beer going now with 1318. I know you said you don't have any or no experience with 1318, but with it being a top cropping yeast it has a huge krausen that I guess barely falls. You think it's ok to throw the dry hops in on top of that?

I'd like to do it before fermentation is done but it's a thick krausen for sure.

Anyone else with experience on dry hopping with 1318? I have it fermenting in a carboy and don't really want to weigh down a bag.
Click to expand...

Funny I have a beer going now with 1318. As ferment starts to slow some of the krausen will fall, I gently swirled the carboy and most but not all of the rest fell the I just dry hopped on top of that so far so good.
 
Awesome recipe, thanks again for your work! Made it with 1318 and it turned out delicious. I'd put it up against any of the Northeast IPA's currently riding the hype train.
 
olotti said:
I gently swirled the carboy and most but not all of the rest fell the I just dry hopped on top of that so far so good.
Click to expand...

This. I do the same - 1318 will fall with disturbance, and we homebrewers can dry hop at that time.

In addition, if you do a mixed fermentation with 1318 and Conan, that insane krausen doesn't form, and all this dry hop stuff insertion stuff doesn't matter.
 
lilbova3 said:
So I got a beer going now with 1318. I know you said you don't have any or no experience with 1318, but with it being a top cropping yeast it has a huge krausen that I guess barely falls. You think it's ok to throw the dry hops in on top of that?

I'd like to do it before fermentation is done but it's a thick krausen for sure.

Anyone else with experience on dry hopping with 1318? I have it fermenting in a carboy and don't really want to weigh down a bag.
Click to expand...

I would swirl it a bit as well and get it to drop some, then dump em in. I would think 3 ounces of pellets would punch through whatever was left for the most part.
 
I am currently fermenting with 1318, 6 days in. The krausen on mine started dropping around day 4 and was pretty much gone by day 5. Still plenty of activity in the beer but no more krausen. Going to dry hop with 3 oz today or tomorrow. Still super cloudy.

20160326_115307.jpg
 
hezagenius said:
I am currently fermenting with 1318, 6 days in. The krausen on mine started dropping around day 4 and was pretty much gone by day 5. Still plenty of activity in the beer but no more krausen. Going to dry hop with 3 oz today or tomorrow. Still super cloudy.
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Todd the Axeman.... That is a good brew:mug:
 
Braufessor said:
In case anyone is interested - this is the blonde ale I make:
OG = 1.042

45% 2 row
45% golden promise
2.5% each of Wheat, honey malt, cara 20 and flaked barley

Hops = 1oz. of liberty at 30 minutes, 1 oz. liberty at 5 minutes

PH = 5.35

Ca = 65
Sulfate = 75
Chloride = 65

I go 75% RO, 25 % Hard tap water. Lactic acid to hit 5.35-5.40

Mash = 152

** Something like Centennial Blonde recipe would be a great one too probably.

Just looking for a light, easy drinking beer that takes no dry hop and makes a nice pile of clean yeast for harvesting. People drink the hell out of this beer though - I can never keep it on tap. I like it myself, wife likes it and guests tend to demolish it.

Brewed this yesterday. Same malt % and hop schedule but I changed the yeast to WB-06. Be interesting how this will come out.:mug:
Click to expand...
 
Just took a SG reading. Holy Schnikeys, that went fast! Looking good and tastes decent. Still has a slight bitter finish but not bad. Hopefully the dry hopping covers that up. I added the whirlpool hops at 180. Might knock that down to a little cooler next time. Mouthfeel is great. Going to do the first 3 oz tonight considering the gravity is where it is. Will do a keg dry hop on day 11.

20160326_171122.jpg


20160326_171407.jpg


20160326_171517.jpg
 
Dangeruss said:
Braufessor said:
In case anyone is interested - this is the blonde ale I make:
OG = 1.042

45% 2 row
45% golden promise
2.5% each of Wheat, honey malt, cara 20 and flaked barley

Hops = 1oz. of liberty at 30 minutes, 1 oz. liberty at 5 minutes

PH = 5.35

Ca = 65
Sulfate = 75
Chloride = 65

I go 75% RO, 25 % Hard tap water. Lactic acid to hit 5.35-5.40

Mash = 152

** Something like Centennial Blonde recipe would be a great one too probably.

Just looking for a light, easy drinking beer that takes no dry hop and makes a nice pile of clean yeast for harvesting. People drink the hell out of this beer though - I can never keep it on tap. I like it myself, wife likes it and guests tend to demolish it.

Brewed this yesterday. Same malt % and hop schedule but I changed the yeast to WB-06. Be interesting how this will come out.:mug:
Click to expand...

I entered this beer recently in Drunk Monk competition and it finished 1st in Light Hybrid category. Entered it in NHC at St. Louis and it placed top 3 and made it through to finals (even though it was a bit old when I sent it.) It really is a nice drinking beer. Other than the NE IPA - I probably brew this more than any other beer.:mug:
Click to expand...
 
Just took my first shot at this style today. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

I used a lot of the advice on this thread. Some flaked grains and wheat malt in the grain bill. I mashed pretty high, went pretty high on chlorides in my water, big 1 hour hop whirlpool with about 9oz total for a 5.5 gallon batch. I'm planning a two stage dry hop with 3oz in each stage.

I went with a Simcoe/Citra/Amarillo combo.

I struggled with a stuck sparge right at the beginning of the mash so I couldn't recirculate until about 10 minutes in, but the mash temp held pretty steady anyway, so I think I'm good to go. Pitched a starter of Conan at around 66 degrees. We'll see how it goes!
 
Made this Friday night. I tweaked the recipe very slightly to aim for a higher OG and adjust down to a 3.5 gallon BIAB batch. Missed my OG slightly, but still managed 1.058 (still learning since this is my 3rd ever batch). Fermentation went off nicely using WYeast 1318. Picture is from last night. As of this morning the krausen is starting to lessen. I'll probably add the first dry hops tomorrow or Wednesday. I did screw up and add twice the required bittering hops for the 60 minute addition. Got distracted, oh well, we'll see how it works.

Excited to see how this one comes out.

20160327_165655.jpg
 
Cegan, did you make a starter? I just brewed yesterday with 1318 which I made a starter about 24 hours before pitching the yeast last night. Well this morning, the airlock wasn't bubbling. I did make a 4 gallon batch and it's in a 6.5 gallon bucket, so I have seen where the airlock activity isn't crazy, but I can't see the krausen. I did use fermcap in starter and batch, which I think reduces the krausen as my starter barely had any. Anyway, I may pop it open today or tomorrow if the airlock doesn't start just to make sure everything is progressing.
 
mtnagel said:
Cegan, did you make a starter? I just brewed yesterday with 1318 which I made a starter about 24 hours before pitching the yeast last night. Well this morning, the airlock wasn't bubbling. I did make a 4 gallon batch and it's in a 6.5 gallon bucket, so I have seen where the airlock activity isn't crazy, but I can't see the krausen. I did use fermcap in starter and batch, which I think reduces the krausen as my starter barely had any. Anyway, I may pop it open today or tomorrow if the airlock doesn't start just to make sure everything is progressing.
Click to expand...

No. I was going to, but couldn't get to the LHBS to buy stuff early enough. Just dumped the smack pack in after a couple hours of sitting out. It did take almost 24 hours to really see any activity. Had maybe 3/8 of an inch of krausen at that point? It really took off after 36 hours. I saw no real airlock activity until that 36 hour mark either, but that's because i had a bad seal into the plug. Fixed that and it was chugging along.
 
Threw the first dry hop in today and pulled a sample. Started at 1.058, now at 1.013, not bad. Looks awesome. It's bitter for sure with that accident at the 60 minute additions, but it's good.

I'll give it a few more days, dry hop it again, and then bottle it. Or keg it if I can get my newly acquired kegs up and running.

20160330_174934.jpg
 
hezagenius said:
Hey @braufessor

Do you agitate your dry hop keg to break up the hop cake that probably forms at the top?
Click to expand...

Not really..... I put the hops and beer in, seal it up, purge and it just sits there for a couple days. When it is time to jump it to serving keg, I pick it up and put it on my chest freezer so I have gravity plus CO2 pressure working in my favor for the transfer. So, I guess when I move it I disturb it a little, and might shake some out of suspension on top.

To be honest, the bigger problem I have had is not hops floating on top.... it is them falling out and packing down on the bottom and making the transfer difficult. I ended up cutting a little off my dip tube to keep it out of the solid hop pack on the bottom which can potential plug up or slow down transfer. I would actually love it if the hops would float on top - would make the transfer so much easier.
 
Braufessor said:
Not really..... I put the hops and beer in, seal it up, purge and it just sits there for a couple days. When it is time to jump it to serving keg, I pick it up and put it on my chest freezer so I have gravity plus CO2 pressure working in my favor for the transfer. So, I guess when I move it I disturb it a little, and might shake some out of suspension on top.

To be honest, the bigger problem I have had is not hops floating on top.... it is them falling out and packing down on the bottom and making the transfer difficult. I ended up cutting a little off my dip tube to keep it out of the solid hop pack on the bottom which can potential plug up or slow down transfer. I would actually love it if the hops would float on top - would make the transfer so much easier.
Click to expand...

You linked the keg transfer technique in the recipe post, do you use the same dip tube filter cover? Do you just dry hop without a hop bag and hope it doesn't clog? The writer of that link you posted mentioned cutting an inch off the dip tube.
 
arnobg said:
You linked the keg transfer technique in the recipe post, do you use the same dip tube filter cover? Do you just dry hop without a hop bag and hope it doesn't clog? The writer of that link you posted mentioned cutting an inch off the dip tube.
Click to expand...

I used that technique and it doesn't clog for me. It works really well, and no hop matter is transferred. This is just using gravity drain too, not pressurized transfer.
 
arnobg said:
You linked the keg transfer technique in the recipe post, do you use the same dip tube filter cover? Do you just dry hop without a hop bag and hope it doesn't clog? The writer of that link you posted mentioned cutting an inch off the dip tube.
Click to expand...

I use the same thing..... I use a stainless braid over the dip tube and then that is inside the stainless/mesh dry hop tube. The hops go in free. I would say even with the dip tube long I had about an 80% success rate of no clogging on the transfer. However, from time to time it gave me problems even with the double filter - the hops just really pack in around the bottom of the keg. A couple batches ago I had a BIG problem...... had to resort to siphoning the beer out of the keg. So, I cut 1/2-1 inch off the dip tube and the last couple transfers were super smooth. Still use the double filter. Might cost a pint of beer..... but, honestly worth it.
 
What are your guys' thoughts on whole leaf vs pellets when it comes to dry hopping this kind of beer? Is there a noticeable difference?
 
mavguy said:
What are your guys' thoughts on whole leaf vs pellets when it comes to dry hopping this kind of beer? Is there a noticeable difference?
Click to expand...

Whole cones seem to have better aroma when the beer is really young, but even as little as a week later, they start to slide downward.

Also, whole cones absorb more liquid.
 
Last edited:
It's beer at this point slym2none ;)

Time and time again Brewers and hop processors have told me that pellets are more stable (lose less aroma/flavor after packaging) so I've gone almost 100% pellet at this point
 
I use all pellets. I don't think there is any advantage to whole hops..... plus, they absorb wort/beer, and take up a ton of room in the freezer. I would think they would work fine.... but, I prefer pellets.
 

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