New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Tapped my latest hazy this weekend. This is a TDH, Triple hazy ipa at 10.5% that was hopped with Freestyle Nelson, Nelson CGX, Mosaic T90, Mosiac Cryo, and Citra Cryo.

Og: 1.102
FG: 1.022
Yeast - wyeast 1272
IMG_1651.jpeg
 
Looks fantastic as always. How the hell is it so far?
Thanks brother.

Right now it’s not the best overall flavor as It’s a bit too intense in hop flavor (bitterness and hop burn are almost non existent, which is cool this early on). It sounds weird to say but it’s very punchy. I think it will be money in about a week or two. The balance is spot on with the abv. Drinks like an 8% double, which I’m happy about
 
Last edited:
Looks fantastic as always. How the hell is it so far?
Idk if you have ever seen my fermenter lid build but I run co2 down a floating diptube to prevent o2 from entering. I dryhop quick and keep letting the haas run 10 seconds after and then I start tightening the lid and cut the gas cap
 
I kind of fell out of love with the style, I have gravitated to the more bitter, clean IPA's or the malty lagers...but this Brujos inspired iteration is excellent. Superdelic, Citra, and Idaho 7:
View attachment 845078
I don’t disagree. My modern west coast double with talus Mosiac and nectaron has been my favorite beer I’ve brewed in some years. That modern west coast style is becoming my favorite. I’m a little burnt out from the hazy to be honest but this one is still good.

Here’s the wc
IMG_1626.jpeg
 
Idk if you have ever seen my fermenter lid build but I run co2 down a floating diptube to prevent o2 from entering. I dryhop quick and keep letting the haas run 10 seconds after and then I start tightening the lid and cut the gas cap
Yes of course run co2. Do you do three separate additions all after a soft crash this way? Three days in a row? All on top of yeast cake?
 
Last edited:
Yes of course run co2. Do you do three separate additions all after a soft crash this way? Three days in a row? All on top of yeast cake?
This is my first triple dryhop in a while (the third was honestly to get more haze in the beer because it definitely fat less opaque than normal. But I also dryhop different this time. I put this out there now that my typical dryhop is softcrash and one large addition after closed transferring to a purged dryhop vessel (I have faith in my process so I’m not concerned with oxidation.) if I do a dbl dryhop I’ll just do one more dryhop while running co2

This beer I dip hoped. Then deyhoped with 20% of the load low Krausen. No crashing. Then I did the second dryhop which was 60% of the load post fermentation and only running co2 (on yeast cake). 3rd dryhop i was looking for stable haze so I soft crashed, racked to purged dryhoping fv and loaded the remaining 20% of the dryhop while running co2. Then I racked I top. Full verdict on if this produced a better beer will be in like 2 weeks or so
 
Well everybody, I'm happy to report that I brewed a really ****ing good hazy IPA!

This is my second attempt at a Brujos style, and its a huge improvement from the first one which was already pretty good. Bottom line is I really think the maltodextrin made a big difference, I definitely pick that up quality in Brujos's beers now that I can make the connection.

Sweet sugary mango, pineapple and passionfruit in the nose. Creamy mango, pineapple, papaya, slight melon in the flavor. Body is full and lucious, it really compliments the creaminess in the flavor. Finishes with a pretty nice balance, with almost a hop tingling feeling on the tongue (not hop burn, but not typical bitterness either) to balance out the body and sweetness. Overall this is one of my best IPAs ever. I love the grain bill, hop combo, yeast profile, everything.

10 lb Pils
5 lb Malted oat
3 lb Wheat
3 lb Flaked oat
1 lb Maltodextrine

0.15 oz Warrior 60 min (6 IBU)
2 oz Citra WP @ 170 (20 min)
2 oz Nelson Lupo WP @ 170 (20 min)
2 oz Citra Lupomax DH
2 oz Nelson DH
8 oz Motueka DH

Imperial Barbarian

90:260 sulfate:chloride

O.G. = 1.074
F.G. = 1.019
ABV = 7.2%
How did you dryhop it
 
This is my first triple dryhop in a while (the third was honestly to get more haze in the beer because it definitely fat less opaque than normal. But I also dryhop different this time. I put this out there now that my typical dryhop is softcrash and one large addition after closed transferring to a purged dryhop vessel (I have faith in my process so I’m not concerned with oxidation.) if I do a dbl dryhop I’ll just do one more dryhop while running co2

This beer I dip hoped. Then deyhoped with 20% of the load low Krausen. No crashing. Then I did the second dryhop which was 60% of the load post fermentation and only running co2 (on yeast cake). 3rd dryhop i was looking for stable haze so I soft crashed, racked to purged dryhoping fv and loaded the remaining 20% of the dryhop while running co2. Then I racked I top. Full verdict on if this produced a better beer will be in like 2 weeks or so
Interesting, definitely curious to hear the results. Also curious what went into the decision to add the 2nd charge directly to fv rather than the DH keg? And i assume you rouse the hops in the DH keg?
 
Wow! Never thought about using DME, however I'll have to give that a whirl.
I use dme on any 9%+ beer. The drop in efficiency, the size of my mashtun, and not willing to drop the final volume make dme a great choice for boosting abv.

I know some people are concerned that dme doesn’t make a good beer, but I can assure you, I make 100% dme based beers often (to save time and brew more often - I have 3 kids under 5) and I’ve medaled with them and never had anyone ever think one of those beers were not all grain. I think people perceive dme negatively because they start out brewing with extract, they aren’t experience yet so they aren’t making good beer so they think it must be the extract. They then keep brewing and switch to all grain and after a few more brews their beers get better and they incorrectly think switching to all grain made their beers better. But what really made their beers better was their gained experience and knowledge of fermentation and pitch rates.
 
Last edited:
Interesting, definitely curious to hear the results. Also curious what went into the decision to add the 2nd charge directly to fv rather than the DH keg? And i assume you rouse the hops in the DH keg?
So recently I was detecting a sharpness in beers with a slightly muted character. I changed my process to rule out my typical dryhop process(crash, closed transfer to purged dryhoping vessel, single hop load with agitation) was the cause for the character (turns out it was a water issue combined with a flaw in my water software)

So anyway I went with 2 dryhop additions because the first two were on the yeast cake and at 58, which I knew a lot of the hops would sit at the surface. By braking the dryhop up in this instance your able to get better extraction due to increased contact between the beer and hops. After the second dryhop I crashed and the beer got quite clear compared to my typical process. Since I found it was a water issue that was causing the sharpness in previous beers, I decide to do the third dryhop in another dryhop vessel(a secondary fermonster with my closed transfer lid) that was purge to increased the opacity of the beer.
 
I don’t disagree. My modern west coast double with talus Mosiac and nectaron has been my favorite beer I’ve brewed in some years. That modern west coast style is becoming my favorite. I’m a little burnt out from the hazy to be honest but this one is still good.

Here’s the wc View attachment 845082
Would love to get that recipe. Looks great.
 
Would love to get that recipe. Looks great.
thanks man

Grain:
100% - Pilsen Lite dme.
Og: 1.071
FG: 1.012
Yeast: Us05

Hotside hops
IMG_1664.jpeg


Dryhop at 58*f for 48 hours
3 oz mosaic Cryo
5 oz Nectaron
2 oz talus
(This is from memory, I can confirm when I look at my notes later)
 
This is my first triple dryhop in a while (the third was honestly to get more haze in the beer because it definitely fat less opaque than normal. But I also dryhop different this time. I put this out there now that my typical dryhop is softcrash and one large addition after closed transferring to a purged dryhop vessel (I have faith in my process so I’m not concerned with oxidation.) if I do a dbl dryhop I’ll just do one more dryhop while running co2

This beer I dip hoped. Then deyhoped with 20% of the load low Krausen. No crashing. Then I did the second dryhop which was 60% of the load post fermentation and only running co2 (on yeast cake). 3rd dryhop i was looking for stable haze so I soft crashed, racked to purged dryhoping fv and loaded the remaining 20% of the dryhop while running co2. Then I racked I top. Full verdict on if this produced a better beer will be in like 2 weeks or so
Beer looks stunning as always. I'm interested to see how your different dry hop process turns out as I've changed mine on this brew too. Did 1/3 of the dry hop towards the end of fermentation which was only day 2. A24 is an animal. Transferred to my dry hop keg this evening and added the remaining dry hops, I'll hold at 58C for maybe 2 days then crash. Will hopefully have a full report in the next week or two. The sample from the fermenter was pretty nice. Loving what Superdelic is doing.
 
I'm pretty interested in the DH conversation. I have always just done one large shot after fermentation. My process up until my last NEIPA was similar to DGallo with a DH keg.

My last one I upgraded to a conical. (Delta Ferm Tank). I built by own dry hopper and I can now DH as much as I want without worrying about O2. I haven't done multiple yet mainly because I've always just done it all in one. I may try splitting in the future to see the improvement.

On a related note have people experimented with how important getting the rid of the yeast cake is? The fermenter has a port on the bottom to drop yeast/trub, but so far I've had limited success actually getting all of it. My last NEIPA was by far my best though wondering how important it is in actual practice.

I know in reality losing ~0.5 gallon with a dry hop keg isn't too significant, but my hazies kick really quick which is a main reason I went to the conical.
 
Beer looks stunning as always. I'm interested to see how your different dry hop process turns out as I've changed mine on this brew too. Did 1/3 of the dry hop towards the end of fermentation which was only day 2. A24 is an animal. Transferred to my dry hop keg this evening and added the remaining dry hops, I'll hold at 58C for maybe 2 days then crash. Will hopefully have a full report in the next week or two. The sample from the fermenter was pretty nice. Loving what Superdelic is doing.
58c ?? That’s hot.. you mean 58f
 
I'm pretty interested in the DH conversation. I have always just done one large shot after fermentation. My process up until my last NEIPA was similar to DGallo with a DH keg.

My last one I upgraded to a conical. (Delta Ferm Tank). I built by own dry hopper and I can now DH as much as I want without worrying about O2. I haven't done multiple yet mainly because I've always just done it all in one. I may try splitting in the future to see the improvement.

On a related note have people experimented with how important getting the rid of the yeast cake is? The fermenter has a port on the bottom to drop yeast/trub, but so far I've had limited success actually getting all of it. My last NEIPA was by far my best though wondering how important it is in actual practice.

I know in reality losing ~0.5 gallon with a dry hop keg isn't too significant, but my hazies kick really quick which is a main reason I went to the conical.
I've had a conical for a few years and I soft crash then dump what I can. I don't think I ever get out as much as I'd like. That said to only time where I say it matters is if your going to rouse your hops in the fermenter, I did this in the past to get better extraction and if you don't get the yeast out then when you rouse the yeast that settles to the bottom get blown into suspension with the hops, no bueno... I stopped rousing after getting crazy hop burn from that happening and now I just do a double dry hop and feel I get good extraction that way as opposed to one big hop load. I still get out what yeast I can though. Slow and steady is the trick to getting as much as possible without the beer punching through the trub.
 
I’ve never been totally convinced about the benefits of staged dry hopping. It seems to me that if you agitate/rumble/recirc/shake your keg with one big dry hop you get the benefits that would have been had for staged dry hopping after fermentation but more so. And agree with Bailey I’d only want to do that if I’ve dumped yeast or transferred off yeast. Even then I think it’s possible to get over extracted by agitating too much (even on a short timeline).

On the other hand, of course I think adding hops at different stages of fermentation changes the yeast interaction and can have benefits of different flavor profiles. But I don’t like to do that much for this style because you can lose haze and it usually drops the FG.

All that to say this is how I arrived at my standard process for hazy. Finish ferm, cold crash, transfer to dh keg,big DH, agitate “a few” times, short ish, cold ish. But that leaves kinda only one more option for cold side hopping and that’s cold side extracts like dip hopping with incognito, which I like a lot.

Of course as a homebrewer I’m not super experienced with every possible teqnique so I’d love to hear from other experienced brewers if I’m missing something.
 
I’ve never been totally convinced about the benefits of staged dry hopping. It seems to me that if you agitate/rumble/recirc/shake your keg with one big dry hop you get the benefits that would have been had for staged dry hopping after fermentation but more so. And agree with Bailey I’d only want to do that if I’ve dumped yeast or transferred off yeast. Even then I think it’s possible to get over extracted by agitating too much (even on a short timeline).
I think this is the best answer. One big dryhop if your dryhoping colder, without yeast and with agitation.

2 separate addition can certainly be advantageous if you are dryhoping in the 60s with yeast still present. The separate additions will allow for better extraction because the active yeast will still release co2 causing the hops to float once they break apart and will keep more hop material in contact with the beer
 
Been thinking about this for a while but how much would tank/fermenter geometry effect hop extraction. I dry hop in a keg and can't help but think the narrow surface area of a keg reduces contact even though I flip the keg.
 
I'm going to try a new to me dry hopping process that a user on reddit swears by. I brew small 2 gallon batches and I own a few 1.5 and 2.5 gallon Torpedo kegs. I ferment in a 3 gallon Fermonster with a modified lid to do oxygen free transfers. My plan outlined in this user's post is to let the beer totally ferment out and crash it. Then transfer to a purged keg already loaded with hops. This keg is outfitted with a Flotit 2.0 floating dip tube. Keep the keg in the high 40's, low 50's and invert the keg every 12 hours for 36 hours. Crash it, then transfer to a serving keg.

Here is the thread I'm talking about.
 
I'm going to try a new to me dry hopping process that a user on reddit swears by. I brew small 2 gallon batches and I own a few 1.5 and 2.5 gallon Torpedo kegs. I ferment in a 3 gallon Fermonster with a modified lid to do oxygen free transfers. My plan outlined in this user's post is to let the beer totally ferment out and crash it. Then transfer to a purged keg already loaded with hops. This keg is outfitted with a Flotit 2.0 floating dip tube. Kep the keg in the high 40's, low 50's and invert the keg every 12 hours for 36 hours total contact time. Crash it, then transfer to a serving keg.

Here is the thread I'm talking about.
That's my method for IPA's. I'll be using this on my next brew, a 5 - 5 1/2 % hazy pale / session ipa.
 
I don’t disagree. My modern west coast double with talus Mosiac and nectaron has been my favorite beer I’ve brewed in some years. That modern west coast style is becoming my favorite. I’m a little burnt out from the hazy to be honest but this one is still good.

Here’s the wc View attachment 845082
Modern WCs are great (when done correctly of course).

Regarding the burn out on hazy IPAs, me too. However, I think it’s because they have been falling out of style and breweries are putting less care and time into perfecting the ones they put out. Or it could be that my taste buds have changed but I’m almost convinced it’s the former.
 
My dryhop process with 2 separate dry hops is because of my system, I brew 15gal batches and have 17.5 gal in my conical so there's no shaking that thing... yes rousing with co2 is an option but I didn't like the results I got from that so I dry hop at 55f 24 hours apart. That's gotten me the best and most consistent results.. I could transfer to dry hop kegs after fermentation is done and all that.. haven't gone down that avenue yet.
My latest, citra/nectaron
20240322_171028.jpg
 
My dryhop process with 2 separate dry hops is because of my system, I brew 15gal batches and have 17.5 gal in my conical so there's no shaking that thing... yes rousing with co2 is an option but I didn't like the results I got from that so I dry hop at 55f 24 hours apart. That's gotten me the best and most consistent results.. I could transfer to dry hop kegs after fermentation is done and all that.. haven't gone down that avenue yet.
My latest, citra/nectaron
View attachment 845290
Since I have an ample supply of Citra and Nectaron I'd be interested in your hopping amounts and schedule. (Although I would likely only do a single dry hop).
 
@bailey mountain brewer when you talk “oz per gallon” are you referring to the volume or wort at the point in the process OR just the intended finish volume (15 gals for you, 5 gals for many of us).

I ask cuz it’s a pretty big difference for these hop heavy beers, for me the boil/WP is 8 gallons but the finished is 5. So much loss to hop absorption.
 
I'm going to try a new to me dry hopping process that a user on reddit swears by. I brew small 2 gallon batches and I own a few 1.5 and 2.5 gallon Torpedo kegs. I ferment in a 3 gallon Fermonster with a modified lid to do oxygen free transfers. My plan outlined in this user's post is to let the beer totally ferment out and crash it. Then transfer to a purged keg already loaded with hops. This keg is outfitted with a Flotit 2.0 floating dip tube. Keep the keg in the high 40's, low 50's and invert the keg every 12 hours for 36 hours. Crash it, then transfer to a serving keg.

Here is the thread I'm talking about.
when I purge my kegs, I fill them with water/starsan to the top and push out with co2. How would you purge a keg that is loaded with hops?
 
when I purge my kegs, I fill them with water/starsan to the top and push out with co2. How would you purge a keg that is loaded with hops?
You could do that and then quickly drop them in. Then connect a gas line from the fermenter to the keg to let the fermentation gas repurge the keg.
 
I've had a conical for a few years and I soft crash then dump what I can. I don't think I ever get out as much as I'd like. That said to only time where I say it matters is if your going to rouse your hops in the fermenter, I did this in the past to get better extraction and if you don't get the yeast out then when you rouse the yeast that settles to the bottom get blown into suspension with the hops, no bueno... I stopped rousing after getting crazy hop burn from that happening and now I just do a double dry hop and feel I get good extraction that way as opposed to one big hop load. I still get out what yeast I can though. Slow and steady is the trick to getting as much as possible without the beer punching through the trub.
What temp do you soft crash to? I’m usually 50 soft and then 40 to cold crash before I transfer to the serving keg.

I noticed my last time I cleaned my fermenter right after transferring and still had a decent amount of beer over the yeast cake (still dialing in amount to put in the new conical). When I opened the dump valve over the sink I got a perfect dump like you see in videos. I’m considering going colder when I dump the yeast and can always let it rise a bit when I dry hop.

Getting a better yeast dump is the one missing part of my cold side process I want to nail.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top