New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Noob_Brewer]

What’s the benefit of the floating dip tube in the fermenter? I have a Spike conical and not sure how a floating dip tube would help?

Agreed with @Dgallo on this. With fermonster type setups we can't dump yeast/trub prior to racking. So as long as I get a solid cold crash to 38ish degrees to make a pancake out of the trub and dry hops, the floating dip tube draws from the top and doesn't pull from the trub/yeast/dryhops at the bottom. Works well.

 

[DrGMG]

I have the coniccal and the floating dip tube makes transfers a lot less messy using the fermonster.

 

[Dennis C.]

I have a couple of questions for those using Fermonsters.
1. Do you start your fermentation with the floating dip tube installed or do you have a different cap that you start with and add your floating dip tube cap later?
2. What is the best method, or process to add dry hops without introducing oxygen? Or should I say introducing as little oxygen as possible?
I have the Fermonster with floating dip tube and I am concerned that the tube will get clogged with hops if I have it installed while dry hopping. I feel like I need to add it after I have cold crashed and dropped the majority of the hops.

 

[Loud Brewing]

I have a couple of questions for those using Fermonsters.
1. Do you start your fermentation with the floating dip tube installed or do you have a different cap that you start with and add your floating dip tube cap later?
2. What is the best method, or process to add dry hops without introducing oxygen? Or should I say introducing as little oxygen as possible?
I have the Fermonster with floating dip tube and I am concerned that the tube will get clogged with hops if I have it installed while dry hopping. I feel like I need to add it after I have cold crashed and dropped the majority of the hops.

1. Yes, I start with the floating dip tube/cap setup and have never had a clog. Be sure to cold crash before transferring to keg.
2. Most of us hook up the co2 to the dip tube side post and add a couple psi, then crack open the lid and quickly dryhop, then replace lid. Turn off gas and bleed excess co2 by cracking lid again (or you can add a PRV to your lid). You can dryhop under pressure but I find that it pushes my hops to the bottom.
3. If you do encounter a clog in the dip tube simply hook up your gas to the diptube side and blow it out with a few psi.

 

[DrGMG]

I dry hop on the first 3 days. Also ferment under pressure.

 

[beervoid]

I haven’t seen any literature that states that proteins will extract polyphenols at a higher rate, however I have seen numerous studies that prove that during fermentation, yeast will bind polyphenols and proteins together, causing these bound compounds to stay in suspension longer, which inadvertently causes greater and longer lasting hopburn.

That’s why many hbers and commercial brewers have stoped or greatly reduced the amount of dryhops being added during active fermentation

Any chance you remember which studies? Would like to read up on that.
Thanks

 

[Dgallo]

Any chance you remember which studies? Would like to read up on that.
Thanks

Astringency due to polyphenols - https://scholar.google.com/scholar?...=polyphenol+astri#d=gs_qabs&u=#p=moFNK61Dg6cJ


Protein polyphenol reaction -https://scholar.google.com/scholar?...vis=1&oi=scholart#d=gs_qabs&u=#p=iC3IUA1t88UJ

 

[beervoid]

Astringency due to polyphenols - https://scholar.google.com/scholar?...=polyphenol+astri#d=gs_qabs&u=#p=moFNK61Dg6cJ


Protein polyphenol reaction -https://scholar.google.com/scholar?...vis=1&oi=scholart#d=gs_qabs&u=#p=iC3IUA1t88UJ

I was too quick to reply was still reading the thread thank you.

 

[chieftain]

A little off topic but this is just too comical not to share. A local brewery in Boston, Aeronaut, who has been around long enough to know better, attempted maybe their 4th NEIPA: Imperial Galaxyc Cirrocumulus. And their story about the color is this: “it eventually settles. We used a special grain to get the darker colors.”

I do believe this is code for “oxidized.” This should make us all feel great about O2 management. It tasted like pure disappointment.

Aeronaut turns out some tasty stuff, but I've seen some bad oxidation with another one of their beers before - King Louie. It was a drain pour at $18/4 pack. Can't believe they tried to play it off this way.

 

[Dennis C.]

1. Yes, I start with the floating dip tube/cap setup and have never had a clog. Be sure to cold crash before transferring to keg.
2. Most of us hook up the co2 to the dip tube side post and add a couple psi, then crack open the lid and quickly dryhop, then replace lid. Turn off gas and bleed excess co2 by cracking lid again (or you can add a PRV to your lid). You can dryhop under pressure but I find that it pushes my hops to the bottom.
3. If you do encounter a clog in the dip tube simply hook up your gas to the diptube side and blow it out with a few psi.

Great information. Thank you for the quick response.
What do you use for an airlock or blow off with this type of set up?
All I currently have is the gas in and liquid out ball lock fittings on my lid.
Do you run a hose off the gas fitting into a container of star san, or?

 

[Dgallo]

Great information. Thank you for the quick response.
What do you use for an airlock or blow off with this type of set up?
All I currently have is the gas in and liquid out ball lock fittings on my lid.
Do you run a hose off the gas fitting into a container of star san, or?

You’re going to love the set up @Loud Brewing has for the blow off. I use the same as he does but I’ll let him explain it!

 

[Loud Brewing]

Great information. Thank you for the quick response.
What do you use for an airlock or blow off with this type of set up?
All I currently have is the gas in and liquid out ball lock fittings on my lid.
Do you run a hose off the gas fitting into a container of star san, or?

There are lots of options for the blowoff side. You can do something as simple as a ball lock disconnect with a short piece of tubing and a conventional airlock, or just a blowoff tube into water/starsan bottle like you mentioned. Another option is a spunding valve or one-way etc.

However most of us like to harvest the c02 produced from fermentation in order to purge another keg or similar vessel (balloon for cold crashing etc). Simply fill a keg with sanitizer and attach the blowoff tube from the fermenter to the IN side of the keg. Then attach a tube to the OUT side of the keg and jump it to another keg or you can just use a bucket to collect the sanitizer. A healthy fermentation will produce enough co2 to fully purge your keg which will save you time and money when it comes to packaging day.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Great information. Thank you for the quick response.
What do you use for an airlock or blow off with this type of set up?
All I currently have is the gas in and liquid out ball lock fittings on my lid.
Do you run a hose off the gas fitting into a container of star san, or?

I have the same setup too now due to @Dgallo and @Loud Brewing help. The only thing I would add is that to make sure your purge keg and bucket are more or less on the same horizontal level as the fermenter. Why? When I first tried this, I had the keg and bucket on the floor and because my fermenter is elevated, it created a siphon which resulted in the siphon sucking more CO2 out of the fermenter than the yeast could produce during fermentation. I caught it in time though but you can imagine the horror on my face when I checked on it shortly after hookup and saw my fermonster looking more like an hour glass instead of a cylinder - I created a vacuum! lol. Ever since, I have them at same height like in the picture.

 

[Dgallo]

Switching the pace. I’ve used sabro in the whirlpool in two different beers now but not very familiar dryhoping with it. I’ve been getting a decent coconut note from 3 oz in whirlpool but wanted to hear some folks experience dryhopping with it.

To give you some background, I’m going for a beach theme NEIPA that I’m calling “Beach chairs and Sunblock” and it’s already been brewed using Columbus and sabro hotside. It’s fermenting currently using Hornindal and on 5 lbs of pineapple pure. The plan so far is to dryhop with mosaic and azacca cryo and was thinking of tossing an oz or two of sabro in as well.

 

[stickyfinger]

a friend of mine used to ferment in buckets. his first super hoppy ipa that he cold crashed came out looking like a brown ale and borderline light stout. i wouldn't recommend cold crashing. soft crashing, maybe, but i'd be worried honestly. use kegs or a glass carboy or something else that you can seal well if you want to soft/cold crash

Can I get some insight on Dry Hopping techniques? In past I haven't had too many oxidation issues, but reading today's comments I'm getting a bit worried: I ferment in a bucket and just cracked the lid to add first dry hop on day 3. The plan is to ferment a few more days, then soft crash on day 8 to 57F, and then add the dry hop #2 on Day 9.
Would I be better off minimizing oxidation and kegging the beer before the second dry hop? This way I could at least purge any O2 that gets in...

Edit: I use the spigot to rack the beer into keg.

 

[secretlevel]

a friend of mine used to ferment in buckets. his first super hoppy ipa that he cold crashed came out looking like a brown ale and borderline light stout. i wouldn't recommend cold crashing. soft crashing, maybe, but i'd be worried honestly. use kegs or a glass carboy or something else that you can seal well if you want to soft/cold crash

Thanks, I appreciate the response. I haven't struggled too much with oxidation and cold crashing in buckets before - I'm just making myself nervous I think...

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Switching the pace. I’ve used sabro in the whirlpool in two different beers now but not very familiar dryhoping with it. I’ve been getting a decent coconut note from 3 oz in whirlpool but wanted to hear some folks experience dryhopping with it.

To give you some background, I’m going for a beach theme NEIPA that I’m calling “Beach chairs and Sunblock” and it’s already been brewed using Columbus and sabro hotside. It’s fermenting currently using Hornindal and on 5 lbs of pineapple pure. The plan so far is to dryhop with mosaic and azacca cryo and was thinking of tossing an oz or two of sabro in as well.

I guess this depends on how much of the coconut you want to come through. Ive never brewed with sabro myself though but from what I understand it can be overpowering. Ive only had two sabro beers (1 mass commercial and the other from a local brewery). Both were decent and I respected it, but....I don't like coconut lol. So, depending on how much flavor from the hot side comes through, Id just be worried that the coconut would overshadow the pineapple and other dry hops. How much sabro did you use on the hot side and how did it taste prior to dry hopping if you tasted it?

OK, I just reread your post - 3oz in whirlpool with already a decent coconut note.

 

[Hannabrew]

Great information. Thank you for the quick response.
What do you use for an airlock or blow off with this type of set up?
All I currently have is the gas in and liquid out ball lock fittings on my lid.
Do you run a hose off the gas fitting into a container of star san, or?

I've been using a magnet to hold my dip tube above the krausen until it settles...then I let it drop.

Use the same magnet to ensure the dip tube doesn't pick up trub when racking to keg. Just need to finagle it a bit to ensure the ball (and therefore the ring which is what is actually magnetic) gets close enough to the sidewall so the magnet works.

 

[leesmith]

I've been using a magnet to hold my dip tube above the krausen until it settles...then I let it drop.

Use the same magnet to ensure the dip tube doesn't pick up trub when racking to keg. Just need to finagle it a bit to ensure the ball (and therefore the ring which is what is actually magnetic) gets close enough to the sidewall so the magnet works.

Strange...isn't that set up supposed to be stainless? True stainless isn't magnetic.

 

[jturman35]

Dgallo I did my last batch with 2oz total Sabro however I’m thinking my dry hop addition at 60deg the hops floated straight to the bottom of my conical. I could see them in my sight glass. The beer had really good flavor and bitterness was perfect with smooth mouthfeel however aroma was extremely muted. My next attempt will likely use 3oz Sabro as I feel like something in my process caused the issue. This was my first attempt at a soft crash and throwing 6oz of dry hop at once.

I literally just kicked the keg and when I popped the lid there was massive amount of trub sediment covering the pickup tube, way more than previous batches. I assume this greatly affects the aroma???

1/2 warrior @ 60min
1oz Simcoe @ 10min

2oz Simcoe whirlpool
1oz Motueka whirlpool
1oz Sabro whirlpool

3oz Motueka dry hop 24hr
2oz Simcoe dry hop 24hr
1oz Sabro dry hop 24hr

 

[aaronm13]

I've been using a magnet to hold my dip tube above the krausen until it settles...then I let it drop.

Use the same magnet to ensure the dip tube doesn't pick up trub when racking to keg. Just need to finagle it a bit to ensure the ball (and therefore the ring which is what is actually magnetic) gets close enough to the sidewall so the magnet works.

I like this idea. Was trying to figure out how to keep the floating dip tube up until after crashing everything.

 

[beervoid]

Switching the pace. I’ve used sabro in the whirlpool in two different beers now but not very familiar dryhoping with it. I’ve been getting a decent coconut note from 3 oz in whirlpool but wanted to hear some folks experience dryhopping with it.

To give you some background, I’m going for a beach theme NEIPA that I’m calling “Beach chairs and Sunblock” and it’s already been brewed using Columbus and sabro hotside. It’s fermenting currently using Hornindal and on 5 lbs of pineapple pure. The plan so far is to dryhop with mosaic and azacca cryo and was thinking of tossing an oz or two of sabro in as well.

In my experience 2oz of sabro will def be noticable I think its a good sweet spot to begin with if you dont want it to overpower.
I only use 1oz myself now as im not a huge fan of the coconut flavor it brings and even at that amount I can pick it out, but that's probably cause im familiar with it.

 

[isomerization]

For those that want an out of the box option (instead of DIY Fermonster), I highly recommend the Snub Nose Fermentasaurus. 9.25 gallon and rated to 35 psi. Lid has PRV to go with both ball lock posts and floating dip tube. $130 at Northern Brewer and qualifies for free shipping/other deals they run.

https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/fermentasaurus-snub-nose-conical-fermenter

 

[isomerization]

In my experience 2oz of sabro will def be noticable I think its a good sweet spot to begin with if you dont want it to overpower.
I only use 1oz myself now as im not a huge fan of the coconut flavor it brings and even at that amount I can pick it out, but that's probably cause im familiar with it.

100% agree, can pick those hop up very easily even at 10-15% of hip bill and my palate blows lol. Did a 75% Sabro beer once and it tasted like a cedar chest! Could very well have been something I did or lot specific.

 

[DrGMG]

I have that snub one, love it.

 

[popquizkid]

I have the same setup too now due to @Dgallo and @Loud Brewing help. The only thing I would add is that to make sure your purge keg and bucket are more or less on the same horizontal level as the fermenter. Why? When I first tried this, I had the keg and bucket on the floor and because my fermenter is elevated, it created a siphon which resulted in the siphon sucking more CO2 out of the fermenter than the yeast could produce during fermentation. I caught it in time though but you can imagine the horror on my face when I checked on it shortly after hookup and saw my fermonster looking more like an hour glass instead of a cylinder - I created a vacuum! lol. Ever since, I have them at same height like in the picture.

Any issues with the ball lock / lid leaking when CO2 pressure is applied? Wondering what the trick is to get these sealed. At one point one leaked and the other didn't, then I adjusted and for one water test I had them both sealed, but a week later when I had fermenting wort and I had to apply pressure for cold crash they leaked.

 

[Dgallo]

Any issues with the ball lock / lid leaking when CO2 pressure is applied? Wondering what the trick is to get these sealed. At one point one leaked and the other didn't, then I adjusted and for one water test I had them both sealed, but a week later when I had fermenting wort and I had to apply pressure for cold crash they leaked.

Two things that helped me are; I replaced the black oring in the lid and have purchased the lid wrench so I can tighten it well

*edit* I also added gaskets on each post on the underside of the lid

 

[BeerFst]

Took my first sample after first dry hop of 3.5oz galaxy and .5oz Sabro. This is pre crash so there is still some hop burn and yeast messing with aroma, there is definitely a background tropical thing going on that i dont think is from the galaxy.

I've had two Sabro beers, one from Weldwerks last year that was super coconut without any actual coconut added and another from Trillium that was Sabro and Citra (i think) where the coconut was completely absent

More updates to come. I will be crashing tonight, transferring this weekend. keg hopping with the same mix for a total of 12.5% Sabro. if i dont get the coconut i'll add a bit more, but i plan to wait until its fully carbed which won't be til next week sometime.

 

[cheesebach]

I use my cbd in my fermenter for one main reason....to be able to close transfer from the fermenter to the serving keg with little to no trub or hop debris

Do you use the optional dry hop screen that fits around the CBD when you use it in the fermenter? Usually, I use the Janish screen in the fermenter and have been thinking of trying my CBD in the fermenter to compare, but wondering whether the screen would be likely to clog or how much it would actually help with keeping hop debris out of the serving keg.

 

[JustusLiebig]

Hey fellas,
I usually give my beers a bump of direct O2 before adding yeast. Seems to me that in this style that could be detrimental. The hop compounds that carry over from the kettle are exposed to the O2 could lead to early oxidation. Anybody have experience with O2 supplementation or opinions on the matter? One option could be to wait for about 12 hours or so until the yeast enter log phase then give them the O2, but even then, the dissolved oxygen could be more trouble than it's worth.
Cheers!

 

[anteater8]

Dgallo I did my last batch with 2oz total Sabro however I’m thinking my dry hop addition at 60deg the hops floated straight to the bottom of my conical. I could see them in my sight glass. The beer had really good flavor and bitterness was perfect with smooth mouthfeel however aroma was extremely muted. My next attempt will likely use 3oz Sabro as I feel like something in my process caused the issue. This was my first attempt at a soft crash and throwing 6oz of dry hop at once.

I literally just kicked the keg and when I popped the lid there was massive amount of trub sediment covering the pickup tube, way more than previous batches. I assume this greatly affects the aroma???

1/2 warrior @ 60min
1oz Simcoe @ 10min

2oz Simcoe whirlpool
1oz Motueka whirlpool
1oz Sabro whirlpool

3oz Motueka dry hop 24hr
2oz Simcoe dry hop 24hr
1oz Sabro dry hop 24hr

This sounds great. Do you (or anyone) have more experience using Moteuka? I've had 8 oz sitting around forever and I haven't felt super stoked to use it. The only time I put Motueka in a NEIPA with along with Columbus, Azacca and Simcoe which worked really well but I couldn't pick out the Motueka influence. I'm thinking 50/50 Motueka/Citra is probably a good place to start.

 

[Dgallo]

This sounds great. Do you (or anyone) have more experience using Moteuka? I've had 8 oz sitting around forever and I haven't felt super stoked to use it. The only time I put Motueka in a NEIPA with along with Columbus, Azacca and Simcoe which worked really well but I couldn't pick out the Motueka influence. I'm thinking 50/50 Motueka/Citra is probably a good place to start.

It’s my experience that Motueka is very delicate and you have to crush it to have it stand out. I would def suggest using it for at least 60% of the hop total

 

[BrewCityBaller]

Can I get some insight on Dry Hopping techniques? In past I haven't had too many oxidation issues, but reading today's comments I'm getting a bit worried: I ferment in a bucket and just cracked the lid to add first dry hop on day 3. The plan is to ferment a few more days, then soft crash on day 8 to 57F, and then add the dry hop #2 on Day 9.
Would I be better off minimizing oxidation and kegging the beer before the second dry hop? This way I could at least purge any O2 that gets in...

Edit: I use the spigot to rack the beer into keg.

My system requires me to crack the lid to dry hop three days before kegging. I bought a can of Argon (marketed as a wine saver) and pump that in after I dryhop. So far it has worked for me.

I should mention that I also use a CO2 trap, so O2 entry during soft crash is limited.

 

[Genuine]

Here the beer for the Yeast Experiment. Used Imperials Dryhop

 

[JustusLiebig]

Here the beer for the Yeast Experiment. Used Imperials Dryhop View attachment 667574

Amazing glow! Hazy beers can be just as great to look at as clear beers.

 

[tld6008]

Strange...isn't that set up supposed to be stainless? True stainless isn't magnetic.

Many stainless steels are magnetic, stainless alloys like 410,420, 440 are rustproof but magnetic and austenitic stainless steel like 301, 304, 316 are non magnetic

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Here the beer for the Yeast Experiment. Used Imperials Dryhop View attachment 667574

What were the different yeasts among the other participating peeps? Interested in hearing the results

 

[beervoid]

Has anyone played with conditioning temperatures?

In my experience new england ipa's tend to need a bit of time to come together.
It can take up to 2 to 3 weeks for the fruity flavors to "pop".
I have experienced that colder dry hopping might lengthen this process and it got me thinking.
Perhaps conditioning the neipa at a higher temp after taking it off the hops and carbing might speed up this process.
The spreadsheet of cloudwater floating around shows a conditioning temp of 12c if I remember correctly.
It also makes sense that conditioning too cold could possible drop out flavors as well.

 

[Genuine]

Has anyone played with conditioning temperatures?

In my experience new england ipa's tend to need a bit of time to come together.
It can take up to 2 to 3 weeks for the fruity flavors to "pop".
I have experienced that colder dry hopping might lengthen this process and it got me thinking.
Perhaps conditioning the neipa at a higher temp after taking it off the hops and carbing might speed up this process.
The spreadsheet of cloudwater floating around shows a conditioning temp of 12c if I remember correctly.
It also makes sense that conditioning too cold could possible drop out flavors as well.

I've noticed that around the 2nd week or so, mine really shine. I just "cold" dry hopped at 55 degree's with simcoe and I don't know if it's because of the temp...however I'm having the hardest time picking up on simcoe at all. However, it's my first time dry hopping with simcoe in the past couple of years so I don't have a baseline with that particular hop.

 

[beervoid]

I've noticed that around the 2nd week or so, mine really shine. I just "cold" dry hopped at 55 degree's with simcoe and I don't know if it's because of the temp...however I'm having the hardest time picking up on simcoe at all. However, it's my first time dry hopping with simcoe in the past couple of years so I don't have a baseline with that particular hop.

I experimented with simcoe a few times and really didnt get any fruit out of it(more pinel.
I suspect the fruity simcoe hopped beers might be handselected versions that are more fruitforward.
I will test some cryo to see if I can squeeze fruit of simcoe.