I don't remember where I read it or heard but they mentioned its much lower or even not at all being used in the usa for hops.Copper is a fungicide to prevent powdery/Downey mildew and any other possible fungus also used in the us and across the world for all sorts of plants, fruits, and veggies. Think of hops like buds, depending on the soil content and specific trait, you can achieve different percentages of compounds
Getting back on topic .....
I just brewed a session/micro NEIPA with an OG of 1.035 using Imperial Juice (A38) with a half litre starter.
I had planned on waiting 2 weeks before kegging as I only have time on the weekend
I reckon it will be done in 3 or 4 days as it only has to drop about 25 points.
If that happens with such a small beer could I keg it after only a week or does that yeast, or London III, need more than 3 or 4 days to clean up after fermentation is finished?
Thanks
I would bet a lot of people in this thread are kegging at the 1 week mark. I know I have in the last with no (apparent) issues.
The whole clean up off flavors phase is likely an artifact of poor yeast health (from the supplier, pitch rate, ferm temp, etc).
Cool, it's only 1 day in the fermenter but I don't want to miss the chance to dry hop before it's finished. I'll take a reading right now and see how far along it is, if under 1.020 then I might dry hop already.
It's down to 1.024 from 1.035 after 30 hours so there should be still some activity in about 20 hours. I'll dry hop it then and keg on the weekend.
When did bubbles start in the airlock?
With a starting gravity of 1.035...I’d expect the yeast to chew through that in no time.
At 30 hours I’d think it should be in the teens.
At 160 mash you may only get down to 1.018-1.020. That’s where I would be with a 1.060ish og at leastNot sure exactly I pitched it around 8 in the evening and the next morning it was bubbling. I mashed extra high at 160 to leave some body so maybe that has slowed it down a bit.
At 160 mash you may only get down to 1.018-1.020. That’s where I would be with a 1.060ish og at least
yeah according to beer smith it should finish around 1.010 which is my aim. A low alc. beer not too thin with loads of hop aroma and some bitterness. I never mashed that high before so hopefully it works.
Thanks I'll see how this one turns out and maybe try your process if I feel it needs some tweaks.I've had some great success on making low ABV versions of these beers by mashing at 165F, doing a mashout to 170F for 10 minutes and then only adding dry hops once the yeast has been dropped at like 60F for 2-3 days. You might give that a try next time. No hop creep and lots of mouthfeel with sub-5% ABV beers.
I just had my first experience with "hop creep" compliments of Mosaic. I made a split batch (9gal 1.065SG - target 1.015FG) - Each had three hops - Mosaic, Simcoe, Idaho 7 & Citra, Simcoe, Idaho 7. I split the wort and whirlpooled separately - each had 1.5 oz of the hops in the blend. Then split into different fermenters in temperature controlled ferm chambers using WLP007, followed by a initial dryhop at 1.022 of 1oz each hop on day three. I left for vacation and returned seven days later to and dropped to 58* before adding the final dryhop. The batch with Citra was at 1.013 - the batch with Mosaic was at 1.009. I was shocked to see that much of a difference between the two and the only variable was one hop. At this point I cannot tell a difference in the body / mouthfeel between the two but hopefully it wont be noticeable.
If I remember correctly it has more to do with the types of pesticide being used. Less thiols are formed cause they use copper in the pesticides in Europe.
Fascinating stuff. It makes sense as the southern hemisphere hops are very fruity and I bet they got a whole lot of more sunshine.The copper sulphate story is complicated, but I know the paper you're thinking of and it's a bit out of date - in fact Brussels keeps trying to ban copper altogether, and it's not used as much in some countries as in others.
But in any case, thiols are just one part of the story, the monoterpenes responsible for a lot of floral/citrus flavours do seem to be heavily linked to sunshine. It's a real factor in variable climates like Britain, you can really taste the difference in eg the 2017 vintage where August was really cloudy.
In fact I reckon if you gave me SMaSHes made with samples of the last few years of EKG, I could fairly reliably identify blind which beer was from which year - the hard bitterness of the heatwave year of 2018, the earthiness of the cloudy 2017s, the modest 2016s, the all-round brilliance of 2015 and so on.
I always push it from 68-74/5 over the course of the first 2-3days. I love the ester profile of dryhop and have never had it conflict with the hops. I’ve also never got bubble gum. Just peach/nectarine and citrus. If you go above 76 you’ll get fusel alcohol from the A04 portion of dryhop.How far have you guys pushed imperial dryhop temp wise? I recently use it for the first time in a all Medusa brut IPA and it’s probably the most estery yeast I’ve ever used! The pre dryhop sample smelled like fruity bubble yum. I pitch at 75 and quickly cooled it to 68 within an hour, I let it free rise to a couple degrees at day up to 74. I’m kinda hoping it will tone down or blend with the dryhop, it’s a little overwhelming. Anyways, bout to use it in a NEIPA this weekend and wondering if I should raine in the temp a little
I always push it from 68-74/5 over the course of the first 2-3days. I love the water profile of dryhop and have never had it conflict with the hops. I’ve also never got bubble gum. Just peach/nectarine and citrus. If you go above 76 you’ll get fusel alcohol from the A04 portion of dryhop.
Ok thanks, the hottest wort temp I measured was 74.8* it’s not like bubble gum per se, more like the Fruit punch bubble yum (fruity with slight gumminess? Maybe those peach gummy rings?) it has a sweet profile despite a FG of 0.998, It was pre dryhop so we will see how it works with Medusa. Also I fermented under head pressure. Have you ever pitched hotter and cooled down to target temp post pitch? Maybe I chill down to 68 before pitching in a NEIPA this weekend.
It pairs well with Medusa. I did a Medusa & Huell Melon combo using it and it worked really well. I usually try to pitch it at 68, yeast produce the most esters during the growth stage which is Typically the first 36 hours. so if you pitch hot and it doesnt make its way back down to correct temps before they take off, the potential for fusel alcohol increases.Ok thanks, the hottest wort temp I measured was 74.8* it’s not like bubble gum per se, more like the Fruit punch bubble yum (fruity with slight gumminess? Maybe those peach gummy rings?) it has a sweet profile despite a FG of 0.998, It was pre dryhop so we will see how it works with Medusa. Also I fermented under head pressure. Have you ever pitched hotter and cooled down to target temp post pitch? Maybe I chill down to 68 before pitching in a NEIPA this weekend.
It pairs well with Medusa. I did a Medusa & Huell Melon combo using it and it worked really well. I usually try to pitch it at 68, yeast produce the most esters during the growth stage which is Typically the first 36 hours. so if you pitch hot and it doesnt make its way back down to correct temps before they take off, the potential for fusel alcohol increases.
i think hot pitching with immediate cooling works fine in the summer. i just did an ipa with 1318. pitched at 77 and set fridge to cool to 72 immediately. no off-flavors i can detect. i suppose it may depend on the yeast though
I've been thinking of moving towards fermenting in cornys. I tried it with an APA and it was a disaster bc my disconnects clogged. I'm thinking of trying Scott Janish's dip tube filter.
Has anyone had success keg fermenting beers with loads of dry hops? If so, any tips/tricks to share?
I've been thinking of moving towards fermenting in cornys. I tried it with an APA and it was a disaster bc my disconnects clogged. I'm thinking of trying Scott Janish's dip tube filter.
Has anyone had success keg fermenting beers with loads of dry hops? If so, any tips/tricks to share?
Thank you both. For a while, the smaller batch size presented a mental hurdle for me. But then I realized that I find myself without a tap for my next beer more often than I find myself with an empty tap, so I'm over that.
Sounds like a floating dip tube is preferable to the dip tube filter/screen. Might as well get one for fermenting and serving kegs, I suppose.
Free float, cold crash for at least24hrs, Install a filter in your transfer line and discard the first few ounces that exposed to air in the line then proceed with transfer.
https://www.amazon.com/Line-Strainer-stainless-filter-screen/dp/B00CH2JSIY
I dryhop 1.5-2 oz per gallon. No more issues after I added the inline filter. If you don’t cold crash the filter will clog though.
I only pitched 1/2 the pack and used the other 1/2 on a Galaxy Pale ale. It def will work well for the style. I got lots of orange from it and a slight saison/bubblegumie note in it as well. So it adds a bit of complexity which is nice when fermented hot, like 90-95. I still prefer dryhop for my own taste but I will def be using it in some of my recipes to see how it changes thingsAgain, that beer looks so good, @Dgallo. How would you compare that yeast to 1318 or A24 for this style, or is it hard to tell with the lavender in there?
Just wanted to mention that I tried the 20 mesh version of this filter on my last massively dry hopped (over 2 lbs) 10 gallon batch and it worked beautifully in preventing clogged poppets. The whole batch transferred no problem to two kegs. It did clog at the very end of the transfer, but that's to be expected, and I didn't really mind as there was mostly just hop sludge left in the fermenter at that point.
Sanitation was pretty simple. I just assembled it and attached tubing to each end of it under starsan and then pushed beer through it until the sanitizer was purged. I originally wanted to push the starsan out with CO2, but decided this was the better way to go.
The filter is extremely small, though, so it's not capable of filtering out much hop debris. I could never get away with not cold crashing and using this. For now, it's a keeper and I'll continue to use it. Thanks for the heads up and first-hand experience, @ttuato.
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