New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[no_borders]

I love Simcoe in brown ales...

For real? I've done hoppier brown ales before, but never done anything outside the "cascade/willamette" realm. Pretty excited about the whole project. I've gone back and forth trying to make sense of a hop/malt combo, I really can't wait to try this gremlin of a beer.

The single hops pales were fun, but I kind of reached a stopping point, just from a drinking stand point. I'll keep everything posted as we go.

Side note, I did see a little talk about s-04 as a back up yeast and I can't stress enough how awesome this yeast really is. Absolutely my house strain, very diverse, and easy to harvest. Love this strain. And this style

 

[jakturner]

For real? I've done hoppier brown ales before, but never done anything outside the "cascade/willamette" realm. Pretty excited about the whole project. I've gone back and forth trying to make sense of a hop/malt combo, I really can't wait to try this gremlin of a beer.

The single hops pales were fun, but I kind of reached a stopping point, just from a drinking stand point. I'll keep everything posted as we go.

Side note, I did see a little talk about s-04 as a back up yeast and I can't stress enough how awesome this yeast really is. Absolutely my house strain, very diverse, and easy to harvest. Love this strain. And this style

Looking forward to try us-04 in my next one! This thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=623221&page=21
Got me interested.

Anyways maybe a little off topic but can anyone out there school me using a spunding valve? I ferment in keg and plan on dry hoping and spunding in keg, can anyone tip me off on when to add valve and what pressure to use to ferment and what to use to carbonate at room temp? Thanks!

 

[stickyfinger]

For real? I've done hoppier brown ales before, but never done anything outside the "cascade/willamette" realm. Pretty excited about the whole project. I've gone back and forth trying to make sense of a hop/malt combo, I really can't wait to try this gremlin of a beer.

The single hops pales were fun, but I kind of reached a stopping point, just from a drinking stand point. I'll keep everything posted as we go.

Side note, I did see a little talk about s-04 as a back up yeast and I can't stress enough how awesome this yeast really is. Absolutely my house strain, very diverse, and easy to harvest. Love this strain. And this style

yeah, yeah, dankish hops go well in dark beers. simcoe has a lot of fruit sometimes (tangerine), but it can be pretty dank too. i also like ctz, comet, apollo in dark beers. my favorite ever was a brown ale with all simcoe though.

i used to use s-04 a lot but i had one batch of bitter come out really weird. could have been something i did wrong otherwise, but it turned me off from s-04. i just use wlp002, and i absolutely love it as well. try making the Jubelale clone from Deschutes that is in a thread here somewhere. That is a fantastic dark, hoppy beer with wlp002/s-04.

 

[no_borders]

I initially was going to use 013 for everything. I had great luck with it in darker beers and wanted to try it in lighter hoppier ales, but somewhere along my yeast harvesting practices it got contaminated and ruined a handful of batches. With no LHBS to rely on, s04 became an easier go to. I've gotten much better at yeast handling so maybe I should try it again.

I also didn't find my all simcoe or all Columbus single hops to really have the dank character everyone else seems to have. Then again they weren't hopped at the same rate as an IPA so maybe that was the problem. I'm hoping the addition of citra will make them all pop.

I'll have to try and find that clone. We don't get any deschutes out here in NH but I could keep messing around with darker hoppier beer.

 

[bolus14]

Just my slight observation of Simcoe. If added anytime before 20min, I get dank flavors. When used as flameout, whirlpool, or dry hopping, I think you get more fruit, in the line of tangerine, maybe mango and apricot.

 

[no_borders]

Just my slight observation of Simcoe. If added anytime before 20min, I get dank flavors. When used as flameout, whirlpool, or dry hopping, I think you get more fruit, in the line of tangerine, maybe mango and apricot.

That's pretty cool, I guess I've never really tried that out. I've pretty much given up on adding hops to the boil aside from a FWH addition for IBU only. I have done this addition with simcoe but I usually boil for 90 min so there really isn't much flavor contributed. Either way I do like the fruity aspect both simcoe and Columbus bring to a beer like this. And I really don't think you can ever go wrong with citra.

Sunday marks day 3, meaning first taste/gravity sample and probably dryhopping the first addition. To be continued....

 

[olotti]

Just brewed this up and for the first time I used a hopshot at 60min for 30ibu then 4 oz (2ea.) of mosaic and galaxy at flameout 200deg let that drop to 175 then added another mosaic/galaxy charge until temp hit 150 deg. Fermenting with 04 since I don't have time to make a starter of my usual 1318. It's already bubbling away less than 24 hrs later at 66deg so the first 4oz dryhop will prob go in Tomm or Tuesday then another 4oz dry hop 5 days after that. Well see what happens.

 

[WiscoBrewer]

I've been dry-hopping in primary then kegging from there. I then bottle 12 using the beer gun after fully carbed. I've noticed that after a couple weeks the bottled beer is better than what remained in the keg in side by sides. My thinking is that all the "Hop oils" both flavor and aromatic have dropped in the keg but still remain in the bottle? I do use the clear beer draught system so maybe pulling off the top rather than the bottom is culprit if this is case? Also, I haven't tried shaking the keg to get "the juice" back in suspension, but that's what I'm going to try tonight.

 

[Sbe2]

This went into the keg tonight. First kegged NEIPA and first time using S-04. So far so good!

 

[olotti]

This went into the keg tonight. First kegged NEIPA and first time using S-04. So far so good!

Looks neipa. I like 04 as a back up yeast when I can't make a starter for my usual go to 1318. Their both London yeast but 1318 is top cropping while 04 drops a bit harder but if you do the mid fermentation dry hop I think 04 does a fine job and it retains some of the fruitier esters of 1318. I'm sure it'll be darn enjoyeable.

 

[Gustatorian]

Looks neipa. I like 04 as a back up yeast when I can't make a starter for my usual go to 1318. Their both London yeast but 1318 is top cropping while 04 drops a bit harder but if you do the mid fermentation dry hop I think 04 does a fine job and it retains some of the fruitier esters of 1318. I'm sure it'll be darn enjoyeable.

04 is London Yeast? I thought it was closer to the Chico strain (001 or 1056)

 

[TheBrewBrotha]

Not only is the Imperial Citrus great in this style - also try the DryHop Yeast as well. Avoid the Juice yeast. It's more of a mess than anything else.

What mess did it create? I've brewed about 5 batches with A38 and all turned out stellar.

 

[grassfeeder]

What mess did it create? I've brewed about 5 batches with A38 and all turned out stellar.

well, I've never had an issue with the end product of the A38 its just wanted to climb outta the fermenter every time. Even a blow off hasn't been enough sometimes.

 

[Sbe2]

Looks neipa. I like 04 as a back up yeast when I can't make a starter for my usual go to 1318. Their both London yeast but 1318 is top cropping while 04 drops a bit harder but if you do the mid fermentation dry hop I think 04 does a fine job and it retains some of the fruitier esters of 1318. I'm sure it'll be darn enjoyeable.

My plan was to use my stock of 1318, but I opened the jar and it smelled like my kids diaper. I was not optimistic about it, but I made a starter with it, still smelled funny and didn't take off. Decided to use S-04 that I had on hand because of the TH Yeast thread.

I needed it to be grain to glass in 14 days, and so far I am on track!

 

[stickyfinger]

04 is London Yeast? I thought it was closer to the Chico strain (001 or 1056)

s04 is close to wlp002 in origins

 

[Tarpon87]

I believe 05 is chico strain

 

[no_borders]

I always thought 04 was supposed to be like 007, a little more attenuative and less esters than 002. Than again I could be completely lying to you guys and have no real info to back my statement.

On another note, just tried the brown IPA and it's pretty darn good. I think after the first round of dry hopping this beer has plenty of Columbus character, so I think I'm gonna omit it and just dry hop with citra and simcoe. Should be on tap this weekend!

 

[tld6008]

I plan to brew this beer but I can't get any Galaxy hops so what to substitute in the Citra/Mosiac/Galaxy additions? How about Ella?

 

[lilbova3]

I plan to brew this beer but I can't get any Galaxy hops so what to substitute in the Citra/Mosiac/Galaxy additions? How about Ella?

Vic Secret if you can.

 

[grassfeeder]

Vic Secret if you can.

Agreed. That's as close as you'll get. I'd just do a Citra, Mosaic, Azacca or Amarillo if it were me.

 

[olotti]

s04 is close to wlp002 in origins

This^. 007 is dry English ale yeast and is a lot more flocculant and attenuates more than 002. I like to use 007 for my RIS to chew from really high og's into the 1.28-30 range and it def does the job.

 

[Tarpon87]

Agreed. That's as close as you'll get. I'd just do a Citra, Mosaic, Azacca or Amarillo if it were me.

I subbed Azacca for Galaxy on my first one because I couldn't get Galaxy, I actually liked that version a little better than C/M/G

 

[Pintabone]

Brewing it this weekend. Can't wait to try it. Subbing in El Dorado for Galaxy

5.5 - Maris Otter
5.5 - 2 row
2 - Flaked oats
.25 - Honey Malt
.5 - White wheat

.7 oz Magnum @ 60 (25 IBU)
1 oz ea - Citra, Mosaic, El Dorado @ flameout
1 oz ea - Citra, Mosaic, El Dorado whirlpool below 170
3 oz Citra, 2 oz Mosaic, 1 oz el Dorado dry hop
Omega DIPA yeast

 

[no_borders]

This^. 007 is dry English ale yeast and is a lot more flocculant and attenuates more than 002. I like to use 007 for my RIS to chew from really high og's into the 1.28-30 range and it def does the job.

Which is an exact description of whitbread yeast, or it's dry counterpart s04. 002 behaves nothing like 04, so much to a point where I really dislike 002. I totally agree with everything you said to describe 007, and I think they all apply to s04 as well.

I like 04 in this beer because it's a very mild English style, and t attenuated way better than some of the other yeasts I've tried. It has enough esters to stand out from 001, but not so much that it dominates. People rave about Conan, but I think it's way too fussy and I don't want an IPA to finish at 1.018

S04 also drops pretty hard, making it real easy to harvest. If I can make one $3 pack of yeast last 10 batches of beer I'm a pretty happy guy.

I swore by liquid yeast for a very long time, but since then I've realized that I just don't think there was good information on how to use dry yeast correctly. Handling is key, as is pitching an active culture instead of a dried out dormant one.

 

[no_borders]

So I was wrong too. 1098 = 007 and 1099=s04. Both 1098 and 1099 are whitbread strains, but 1098 is the drier version. 1099 has a whitelabs equivalent, wlp017, but it's a seasonal yeast, or the platinum series if you will. Wlp002 is wyeast 1968. Sorry for any confusion

 

[Sbe2]

I swore by liquid yeast for a very long time, but since then I've realized that I just don't think there was good information on how to use dry yeast correctly. Handling is key, as is pitching an active culture instead of a dried out dormant one.

I pitched a dry pack of S 04 right after I oxygenated my wort. I had two packs and I pitched the one that was newer according to their respective expiration dates. So YMMV, not sure if it was the proper thing to do, but I went grain to glass in 11 days.

 

[bobo31]

Not sure if this has been posted here before but I have had great success using hothead ale yeast and fermenting in my garage. Usually 80+ degrees. I mash in around 157 to account for the extra attenuation. Ferment 14 days. In bottles for one week then straight to the fridge. Awesome NEIPA'in 3 weeks.

 

[stickyfinger]

So I was wrong too. 1098 = 007 and 1099=s04. Both 1098 and 1099 are whitbread strains, but 1098 is the drier version. 1099 has a whitelabs equivalent, wlp017, but it's a seasonal yeast, or the platinum series if you will. Wlp002 is wyeast 1968. Sorry for any confusion

if that's true it could explain why i love wlp002 and have had mixed results with s04. i'd just use wlp002 - very consistent fantastic flavor profile

 

[Northern_Brewer]

So I was wrong too. 1098 = 007 and 1099=s04. Both 1098 and 1099 are whitbread strains, but 1098 is the drier version. 1099 has a whitelabs equivalent, wlp017, but it's a seasonal yeast, or the platinum series if you will. Wlp002 is wyeast 1968. Sorry for any confusion

Everything (credible) I've seen is 1098, S-04 and WLP007 are all subcultures of Whitbread 'B' or dry strain which is the one you want, 1099 Whitbread has few fans. It doesn't mean S-04, 1098 and 007 are identical, but they are very closely related. Same with the various Conan strains - I think you have to look at Conan as a family of yeast now, there seem to be significant differences between the ones from different companies.

04 is London Yeast? I thought it was closer to the Chico strain (001 or 1056)

There were many London breweries, and many "London" yeasts. British breweries were also prolific bankers of yeast. Many so-called "Whitbread" strains were banked by Whitbread but not used by them, and the two most famous "London" yeasts are named after northern breweries.

Wyeast's "original" London Ale, 1028 is like its equivalent WLP013 also referred to as Worthingtons - but Worthies were a Burton brewery, albeit one that pioneered much of the work on yeast strains. Apparently it was cultured from a bottle of White Shield but I've seen suggestions that 1028 is their bottling strain, not their production strain.

1318 is either known as London ale III or Boddingtons - the latter was a brewery in Manchester but supposedly they banked the old Courage strain. There is a suggestion that Boddies lost their original multi-strain yeast in the early 80s, so perhaps they then used Courage yeast for production - or it's just a bank name.

1768 English Special Bitter and WLP033 are both the Young's strain. Seeing references to its "lollipop" character makes me think it could be an interesting one for NEIPA.

1968 London ESB = WLP002 - the Fullers strain - seems to be recommended for bringing out the maltiness of eg porters. I've got it fermenting a pale ale at the moment.

Must admit I've been fascinated by the ongoing Tree House thread, using combinations of S-04 with pinches of WB-06 (a wheat beer yeast!) and T-58 and messing around with fermentation temperatures. I'm not the biggest fan of the style, but it's such a good one for exploring yeast that I'm looking forward to doing some experiments once the new hop harvest arrives on the shelves...

 

[degivens]

For folks using lupulin powder for dryhopping -- I plan to dryhop at day 3-4, which I have typically done with pellet hops. I get the feeling the powder will just sit on top of the fermenter unable to break through the top layer, any idea if 1) thats a thing?, and 2) any ideas how to get the powder into the heart of the fermentor...?

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Suspend the powder in cooled, boiled water before adding it?

 

[jakturner]

For folks using lupulin powder for dryhopping -- I plan to dryhop at day 3-4, which I have typically done with pellet hops. I get the feeling the powder will just sit on top of the fermenter unable to break through the top layer, any idea if 1) thats a thing?, and 2) any ideas how to get the powder into the heart of the fermentor...?

Is it actually powder? Or is it the pelleted cryo hops LupuLN2? The LupuLN2 pellets dissolved and went into solution about the same as regular old pellet hops for me. Just used them for the first time on this last batch so my experience is limited. FYI the LupuLN2 is about twice as strong at regular pellets and is definitely more "dank" in nature, I used Citra and mosaic.

 

[degivens]

Is it actually powder? Or is it the pelleted cryo hops LupuLN2? The LupuLN2 pellets dissolved and went into solution about the same as regular old pellet hops for me. Just used them for the first time on this last batch so my experience is limited. FYI the LupuLN2 is about twice as strong at regular pellets and is definitely more "dank" in nature, I used Citra and mosaic.

That's what it is. Good news, thanks for the info.

 

[Genuine]

Here's my first attempt and I'm trying to figure out what I didn't wrong.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1503935074.780002.jpg

6lb's 2 Row
2.5's Vienna
2lb's Flaked Wheat
.25lb Flaked oats
.25 Crystal 15
.40 Honey Malt

Mashed at 148 for 60 min per advise of LHBS guy, however I don't think I got full conversion as I missed my Pre-Boil gravity by a good 10-12 points, which I haven't had happen in years. (I read that I should have done a 90 minute mash for that low of a mash temp). I usually mash between 150-152 in a 2 Vessel 240V 5500 2 vessel Rims. Missed my OG by 15 points. I should have taken a hydrometer reading to see if it was actually off that much but didn't. Had an OG of 1.045 out of a calculated 1.059 and a brewhouse efficiency of 78%

.5oz of CTZ @ 60 min
.5oz of CTZ @ 5 min
2oz each (6oz total used) of Citra, Nelson Sauvin and Galaxy at 180 Degree whirlpool, however I let it steep for 5 minutes (not sure why I didn't do longer) and continued to cool with my IC Chiller.

Used Imperial Organic Dry Hop yeast and that ripped right through in 3 days and had a terminal gravity of 1.011. Tasted it before dry hopping and it had soft mouthfeel, no bitterness, barely any flavor. I missed dry hopping during high krausen. Dry hopped with 2oz of Citra, 1oz of Simoe and 1oz of Nelson Sauvin for 4 days and kegged. I have more hops to use so I'm thinking about dry hopping more in keg. Maybe I didn't use enough for the style. I also couldn't believe how much improved bitterness and flavor came out of dry hopping. That blew my mind. I thought it just added aroma.

 

[stickyfinger]

Here's my first attempt and I'm trying to figure out what I didn't wrong.

6lb's 2 Row
2.5's Vienna
2lb's Flaked Wheat
.25lb Flaked oats
.25 Crystal 15
.40 Honey Malt

Mashed at 148 for 60 min per advise of LHBS guy, however I don't think I got full conversion as I missed my Pre-Boil gravity by a good 10-12 points, which I haven't had happen in years. (I read that I should have done a 90 minute mash for that low of a mash temp). I usually mash between 150-152 in a 2 Vessel 240V 5500 2 vessel Rims. Missed my OG by 15 points. I should have taken a hydrometer reading to see if it was actually off that much but didn't. Had an OG of 1.045 out of a calculated 1.059 and a brewhouse efficiency of 78%

.5oz of CTZ @ 60 min
.5oz of CTZ @ 5 min
2oz each (6oz total used) of Citra, Nelson Sauvin and Galaxy at 180 Degree whirlpool, however I let it steep for 5 minutes (not sure why I didn't do longer) and continued to cool with my IC Chiller.

Used Imperial Organic Dry Hop yeast and that ripped right through in 3 days and had a terminal gravity of 1.011. Tasted it before dry hopping and it had soft mouthfeel, no bitterness, barely any flavor. I missed dry hopping during high krausen. Dry hopped with 2oz of Citra, 1oz of Simoe and 1oz of Nelson Sauvin for 4 days and kegged. I have more hops to use so I'm thinking about dry hopping more in keg. Maybe I didn't use enough for the style. I also couldn't believe how much improved bitterness and flavor came out of dry hopping. That blew my mind. I thought it just added aroma.

I never seem to get the published conversion on my flaked additions when I do an infusion mash. I think 20-30 ppg for flaked is more realistic for me. So, that can contribute to the lower gravity as well. Longer mash would probably help some as you say. Dry hopping gives tons of hop flavor, as you now know.

 

[Genuine]

I had some friends try it this weekend and they agreed that there was initial bitterness but little flavor after that. I'll keg hop tonight with galaxy or Nelson and see how much that changes it.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

.5oz of CTZ @ 60 min
.5oz of CTZ @ 5 min
2oz each (6oz total used) of Citra, Nelson Sauvin and Galaxy at 180 Degree whirlpool, however I let it steep for 5 minutes (not sure why I didn't do longer) and continued to cool with my IC Chiller.

..Tasted it before dry hopping and it had soft mouthfeel, no bitterness, barely any flavor. ... I also couldn't believe how much improved bitterness and flavor came out of dry hopping. That blew my mind. I thought it just added aroma.

The thing is dry hopping adds a different sort of flavour and bitterness for want of a better description - as you said your processing up until it was cold had added barely any flavour. You need a bit more going in around flameout - some flavour hops at 5 minutes and/or a longer whirlpool. The dry-hop flavour and bitterness is another layer on top of the stuff around flameout, not the only show in town.

 

[centrical]

Here's my first attempt and I'm trying to figure out what I didn't wrong.

View attachment 412133

.
.
2oz each (6oz total used) of Citra, Nelson Sauvin and Galaxy at 180 Degree whirlpool, however I let it steep for 5 minutes (not sure why I didn't do longer) and continued to cool with my IC Chiller.
.
.

I would think with that much WP hops you would have a lot of flavor. But i usually WP for 30 minutes. I guess it's possible 5 minutes is just not long enough.

 

[marjen]

Brewed over the weekend and tried something new in my process. I usually do .25oz columbus@60 and .75 columbus@10. I decided to try a 30 min boil vs the usual 60 min. So i did .5oz columbus@30 and .5 columbus@10. I then changed my usual 30 min whirlpool to a 60 min whirlpool. added 10oz of hops (10 gallon batch) for the whirlpool. The goal was more contact time with the beer in the kettle to try and bring out more flavor. Read something about it in another thread so figured I would try it. Reduced the boil time to compensate for the longer whirlpool time and still keep my brew day at the same length. Also got less evaporation that way, so more went into the fermenter.

I split into 2 fermenters and will dry hop tonight at 48 hrs.

 

[olotti]

I had some friends try it this weekend and they agreed that there was initial bitterness but little flavor after that. I'll keg hop tonight with galaxy or Nelson and see how much that changes it.

Doc u got the bitterness from the Ctz but with only a small charge at 5 min and steeping for 5 min you def didn't give the hope enough extraction time before chilling all the way down. My practice is to cool to 175 then add the hopstand and let it naturally chill down to 155 so that can take anywhere from 30-45-60 min then I'll chill it down to transfer., the longer contact time the better I think. I also just bottled a neipa where I only used 30ibu at 60min then 5oz right at flameout let that cook to 175 then added another 4 oz for a hopstand and that contact time was about an hour also. Try it again letting it hopstand for atleast 30-60 min and I bet you'll taste a diff.