Beersmith will tell you how much sugar to use. I don't bottle carb anymore but I know it was closer to 4 oz per 5 gallon
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
- Thread starter Braufessor
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OP
OP
Could have been some of both. I think 5 ounces is on the high side. I think they often sell priming sugar in those 5 ounce bags...... I have always used somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 of a cup...... I know that is not very precise, but I remember that being less than the 5 ounces in the bag. Closer to 2/3 of a cup gave the lower carbonation levels that I prefer.
OP
OP
I have used something around 1/4 cara 30-35...... (that was in addition to the honey malt). I have a picture of one like that on page one of the thread. Probably a few ways to get there, but probably shooting for 6-7 SRM or so would be close.
Thanks to both. Forgot BS has that somewhere.. Need to break my old standard habits ha.
No problem. Plug in the recipe and go to brew steps. Scroll down to the last three steps. Good luck
That's right. I usually don't use any other tabs than Recipe and Notes.. I often forget it has stuff like that in there... I'll check it out and go from there.. Hopefully the full two weeks and less priming sugar fixes what went wrong last time...Thanks again!
Funny side note.. Just for ****s I cracked open a bottle of my batch 1 and just let it sit overnight inside my fridge, and poured it the next morning when brewing up this new batch.. Tasted better nearly flat that it does fresh out the bottle haha.. I'm now debating just recapping the 12 or so bottles I have left from that batch. It's crazy how overpowering the c02 is on these beers. It almost tasted like a totally different beer.
Maybe pour them into growlers and cap them. That should flatten them out a bit but not fully
dyqik
Well-Known Member
Well, it's boiling. First problem was that I was out of gypsum. So I used Burton Water salts that I've had lying around since my second ever batch. From the Morebeer listing of what Burton Water Salts add to the water, it looks like they are 5:5:1 Gypsum:Epsom Salts:Chalk, so I adapted by Bru'n'water file to use that mix plus calcium chloride. Hit my mash pH dead on.
OP
OP
Maybe trying doing a rough/high pour into a pitcher when you want to drink one.... that should knock a ton of CO2 out of solution, and then pour it from the pitcher into your glass. That might knock it down enough to mellow it out.
mintyice
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You need a pale ale malt for that color. I actually prefer super pale and hazy ones using pils malt
hooterjbrew
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This thread has been great help for my first all grain recipe and my first shot at a NEIPA. My numbers weren't perfect but I still come out with an unbelievable juice bomb and ridiculously smooth 6.4% beer. Couldn't be happier with this until its all gone. The head retention and lacing is great although the pic you can't tell to much of that. I had already had a few drinks from it and it was the first pull from the keg (besides the first pull to get the gunk from bottom of the keg).
WoodsonNoles
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Have had a perfect brew day so far and I'm about to put in fermentor and pitch yeast (doing braufessor NE IPA and I just looked at the yeast NB sent me and they screwed up and sent me 1388 and not 1318.
Should I pitch this or put wort to fermentor and cap and have it chill in the freezer until 1318 comes or what?
Should I pitch this or put wort to fermentor and cap and have it chill in the freezer until 1318 comes or what?
stickyfinger
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wow! i would NOT recommend 1388 for this style. can you get any reasonable yeast from a local place or a brewing friend or something, even a local brewery. 1388 will produce too much yeast character i think, even if you keep the temp low. on the other hand, i wouldn't wait more than 12 or maybe 24 hrs to pitch yeast either.
OP
OP
i agree on trying for another option if at all possible. dry yeast? other local brewers might have something?
stickyfinger
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let this be a lesson to check your yeast when you receive a shipment.
Shenanigans
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That sucks. I'm a non-chill brewer and leave my wort overnight before pitching yeast so if you arrange something else within a day you should be OK. No chance to get a dry pack of US-05 or even S-04?
Maybe the 1388 will turn out good. Duvel Triple hop is a dam fine beer
Like the others say if you decide to go with it keep in on the cool side for sure but not too cold or else it might stall. Somewhere around 65 could be the sweet spot.
Maybe the 1388 will turn out good. Duvel Triple hop is a dam fine beer
Like the others say if you decide to go with it keep in on the cool side for sure but not too cold or else it might stall. Somewhere around 65 could be the sweet spot.
stickyfinger
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I was just reading an article about john kimmich while drinking a Focal Banger I got in Vermont last weekend. It said he was obsessed with dissolved O2 and having yeast in suspension to absorb oxygen. I wonder if it makes more sense to try to rack the beer while warm and leave it in the keg for 12 hrs or so with the yeast once you rack it to get rid of the oxygen from racking and then chill and carbonate? his beers have SERIOUS hop flavor that lasts a long time in the can. Amazing.
The method espoused on ******************** and similar is to rack the beer into a water purged keg through the liquid dip tube with about 4-6 gravity points remaining and spund the keg. This can be as simple as just sealed it up and letting it ride for another few weeks.
This style normally calls for a massive dry hop or two, which complicates this.
So dry hop at 1.020 for a couple days to scrub the oxygen introduced by the hops, then add priming solution to the fermenter, wait for fermentation to restart (~1 h), then rack to a keg as described above.
stickyfinger
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that sounds reasonable for something to try, add the priming sugar to the primary and rack the lot into the keg and let rest a few days before chilling down. again, something that would be very exciting to do as a side-by-side experiment.
OP
OP
i did a couple batches recently where I added the dry hops on Day 2...... would be interesting to do that and then jump it to a keg when it had a few points left..... I just put together a couple spunding valves to start to check out the low oxygen stuff a little better.
Last 3 batches of this I made, I did a single whirlpool addition around 150 degrees of 6 ounces and a single dry hop of 6 ounces at day 2...... they turned out quite good. Might be another way to blend with the low oxygen/spunding techniques.
dyqik
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My fermentation is slowing, and the krausen dropping this morning, so I guess I'll be adding the first dry hop charge at about 48 hours. The Conan pitch took off in about six hours, which shortens the schedule a bit.
I think I'll be adding priming solution to the primary, waiting an hour, then pressure transferring to the purged serving keg loaded with a dry hop bag (won't be able to water/starsan purge though).
I think I'll be adding priming solution to the primary, waiting an hour, then pressure transferring to the purged serving keg loaded with a dry hop bag (won't be able to water/starsan purge though).
spreemotion
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Are you not missing out on a big nose without your secondary hop addition in the (dryhop) keg? I have thought about this as well, however most of the aroma is sent via the airlock out during active fermentation, are you still getting a nice nose to those batches.i did a couple batches recently where I added the dry hops on Day 2...... would be interesting to do that and then jump it to a keg when it had a few points left..... I just put together a couple spunding valves to start to check out the low oxygen stuff a little better.
Last 3 batches of this I made, I did a single whirlpool addition around 150 degrees of 6 ounces and a single dry hop of 6 ounces at day 2...... they turned out quite good. Might be another way to blend with the low oxygen/spunding techniques.
I am testing with things as well, ie: spunding valve. However my thoughts were target a 1.018 or 1.019 FG, let fermentation finish out, add a priming solution and then transfer to (dryhop) keg with a conditioning yeast to eat a few of those last points. Would I be in better shape to actually transfer when I have a few points left during active fermentation? Still a big work in progress for me.
OP
OP
I don't know.... not to the point that it is dramatic or anything. I have two on tap right now and they are both great. In fact, I am really pleasantly surprised by one of them..... Centennial, Cascade, Summit. 2 ounces of each in whirlpool at sub 160 and 2 ounces of each in a single dry hop at day 2. It is really good. Kind of surprised that these hops made such a great beer.
As far as the strategy to use .... your guess is as good as mine. I suppose the nice thing about the priming sugar is that you can kind of plan out when you want to do it. Whereas, transferring with a certain number of gravity points left is more of a precision and timing game. The priming sugar would be easier for sure I think.
i did a couple batches recently where I added the dry hops on Day 2...... would be interesting to do that and then jump it to a keg when it had a few points left..... I just put together a couple spunding valves to start to check out the low oxygen stuff a little better.
Last 3 batches of this I made, I did a single whirlpool addition around 150 degrees of 6 ounces and a single dry hop of 6 ounces at day 2...... they turned out quite good. Might be another way to blend with the low oxygen/spunding techniques.
I haven't quite committed to trying to fully carb my beers with my spunding valve but I can say say that getting them into the keg with as little o2 as possible makes a huge difference on how the hop qualities present.
While my kegs are smaller at 2.5 gallons and go quicker I've never experienced any aroma or hop flavor degradation when I was confident the hops were of good quality and my process followed soundly.
Below is a link to a post of my last hoppy beer made about three weeks ago. I hadn't made a double dry hopped beer with my spunding valve yet because of the worries of primary fermentation slowing and picking up o2 on the transfer to the serving keg with the second round of hops in it. So to counteract this I just bumped up the schedule to day two and day four.
http://www.laundrybrewing.com/2017/07/emily.html
grassfeeder
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checked out your blog and love the simplicity of Emily. Question though - why not just dry-hop your keg hops as well to even further simplify. I've noticed no advantages of keg hopping my beers.
jakturner
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I saw in your blog you brewed a nelson pale in June and you got some bad batches of nelson. I just tapped a nelson/galaxy version NEIPA and I'm very disappointed, the nelson didn't smell right but I used them anyway because those suckers are expensive. Lesson learned, don't be cheap and trust your nose.
Thank you.
I was nervous I'd clog the racking cane filter with so many hops in the fermenter and then mess up trying to eliminate o2 by having to take things apart (I push with co2). 6 oz in 2.5 gallons could cause some trouble. But I agree with you. In the beers I hop less, I only do it once. And I keg hop so the yeast is clean that I harvest from primary. This batch I didn't care about harvesting yeast.
Yeah, I think it's really important to pay attention to the ingredients. My friend has made a Sip Of Sunshine type of clone many times and this last batch he did was hazier and hoppier. On separate occasions his cousin and I asked after the first couple tastes what he did different. He said nothing....but as we talked he pointed out that he just opened a new pound of Citra for this batch.
I'd suspect a lot of us have been disappointed in beers that were brewed properly but fell short because of "off" hops. Even if the bags are properly sealed from the company who knows how many hands they have passed on from to get to us. How many times they have been sold and resold to vendors and sat in a shipping truck in the heat...and not even high heat but room temp heat but for multiple times between being repackaged and/or put on display.
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I'm going to throw this out there just because there appears to be SO MUCH great beer shown on this thread. If anyone is willing to share, and accept brew from others, please join in the Home Brew trade thread just created. Thanks!
FotHB I
And, BTW, throwing in 1st round of dry hop today. My next attempt will be more true to style, I believe. Bought 1318 for the yeast (instead of throwing on a stout yeast cake to save $$$), oatmeal, and 10oz hops total.
FotHB I
And, BTW, throwing in 1st round of dry hop today. My next attempt will be more true to style, I believe. Bought 1318 for the yeast (instead of throwing on a stout yeast cake to save $$$), oatmeal, and 10oz hops total.
Well I have two NE IPAs in the fermenters now. I am REALLY hoping I am back on track. Things were going great until I moved up from 5 to 10 gallon batches. Then I had back to back horrible undrinkable beers. I have gone back to 5 gallon batches and really hope these turn out like my previous 5 gallon batches. I think it was related to not pitching enough yeast but I guess we will see.
I have one with Galaxy/Mosaic/Citra and the other with Azecca/El Dorado/Ekuanot.
I have one with Galaxy/Mosaic/Citra and the other with Azecca/El Dorado/Ekuanot.
no_borders
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Collecting first runnings of my NE style Rye IPA. Going citra mosaic Denali for this one. Totally forgot rice hulls but luckily my super fancy mash tun isn't prone to sticking!
Tarpon87
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Braufessor, with all the different things you've been trying with these beers, I'm curious what your process is of transferring from fermenter to keg now?
stickyfinger
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Collecting first runnings of my NE style Rye IPA. Going citra mosaic Denali for this one. Totally forgot rice hulls but luckily my super fancy mash tun isn't prone to sticking!
careful with the denali in dry hop. very powerful pineapple flavor
stickyfinger
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Can't imagine anyone not recommending a starter, at least to wake up the yeast and get them ready if nothing else (unless you are likely to contaminate the yeast with bad yeast handling.)
OP
OP
My process lately has been this:
*6 ounce dry hop in primary
*2 days before kegging, carry fermenter downstairs and put on counter top to settle
*Fill Keg with star san, push it out with CO2
*Leave CO2 hooked up with 1-2lbs pressure
*Vent keg, pop the lid off, put tubing from fermenter to bottom of keg.
*Set lid back over keg opening
*CO2 is still on very low
*Fill via gravity from fermenter spigot to bottom of keg.
*When done, put lid back on, up pressure, seat lid, vent small head space 5-6 times to hopefully clear out as much O2 as possible.
I know this is not 100% oxygen free or anything...... but, it greatly reduces exposure and has seemed to work quite well.
OP
OP
definitely. I make a starter for every beer I brew.
