New UK Electric build with odd wiring

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toliver38

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So I've read a bunch of forums about building electric brewing setups in the UK but I'm still left with a few questions. I've also been accumulating a few pieces and parts over the last several months, some of which I know won't work in my situation. I only ever make 5 Gal batches but my equipment is a allows for bigger setups. I'd like to get setup with two elements and a brew controller without blowing fuses or worse starting a fire.

Equipment
------------
BK, MT (HERMS), HLT - (40L/10Gal)
2 x 120v Chugger Pumps (US pumps with step down converters
2 x 5500W Ripple Elements - I know these are useless with the limited power I'm able to get
The Situation
--------------
30A circuit (single phase) that is split off for a 25A circuit for a back yard electrical plug (this cannot be modified)
1 outdoor plug with 13A fuse (this plug can be replaced)
I'd like to be able to power at least 1 element at a time and switch between my HLT and BK when necessary
I've looked at a couple of outdoor high amp plug options but I'm still not sure which one is the best.

I've got no problem having to go buy new elements. If there is any advice you can provide me I'd really appreciate it.

Already reviewed the below posts
- http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26637
- http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=50861
Amongst a few others that i can't find links for again
 
I'm not sure about electricity in the UK, but...

Is the 30 amp outlet 240V, 2 hot wires + ground?
If you have a 30 amp outlet (must be GFCI protected), you can power the elements (one at a time) with the 30 amp circuit.

https://skrilnetz.net/how-to-build-a-brewing-control-panel-herms-240v-30-amp/

No, UK single phase 240V power will be 1 hot wire, 1 neutral, 1 ground.

But a 240V control panel designed for US split-phase 240V should work with minor adaptations: any 120V parts that were originally wired between one hot and neutral should be switched out for 240V parts and wired between the single hot and neutral. There's also no need for contactors etc. to switch both legs, as there's only one hot that needs to be switched.

I think typically you wouldn't have to change the SSRs or PIDs as they can be fed anything from 100-250V, although you should check. Contactors would need to be switched out for 240V coil versions, and any LEDs, buzzers, etc. would need to be 240V versions.

One 5500W element can be used at a time on the 25A/30A circuit, wired between hot and neutral.
 
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