dlester
Well-Known Member
Making a great beer is really satisfying. However, the problem with brewing beer is that there are a lot of "off flavors" created throughout the brewing process. I have come up with my list of 10 key points to mitigate the off flavors, which I believe have helped my beers become better. You will obviously come up with your own, and I'm sure there will be critics of mine. However, the point to this hobby is to have fun and discover new ways to make your own beer better.
The following is my edited version after many comments that were good, bad and some very funny. We can all use a laugh even if it is at our own selves. However, I see it as an opportunity to make it better.
The following are only simple and quick suggestions from my brewing experience since the early 80's. I am fully aware that this is not a comprehensive list and each of my suggestions may lack some advanced details. If you want to dig deeper into what causes off flavors in beer, there are plenty of books, online reading and the BJCP Judge certification programs, which has a very nice list of off flavors and causes, which is available for free.
1. Contamination. This is one of the common causes of off flavors I found while tasting and judging beers. Some were either "bottle bombs" or put to the side with a score under 30. Make sure that you have sanitary tools, buckets fermenter etc. When you transfer beer to the secondary, keg, bottling bucket and/or bottle your beers, this is a point where contamination can take place. This is resolved by cleaning with a non-perfumed soap followed by a sanitizer. Adding sugar to bottles for carbonation is another point to watch for contamination. The way to mitigate the risk of contamination is to boil water for approximately 20 minutes (releases 02 that have weak molecular connections to H20, which will help avoid oxidation), then add sugar to the boiled water and mix into the bottling bucket.
2. Oxidation: When your beer has finished fermenting, it is important that your beer keep away from oxygen/air. Pouring a finished beer into a bucket for bottling will expose your beer to 02 and oxidize the beer, which is fine if your not entering a competition. If you're new to brewing, you may not taste any oxidation. However, I've tasted too many beers that suffer from oxidation, which is a cardboard like flavor that makes your beer dull tasting. You can resolve oxidation problems by moving the beer slowly and gently to the next vessel. A more advanced method is to use a bottle of CO2. If you can’t afford it, or don’t want to go this route, go to a wine store and pick up a canister of wine saver. It is a bottle of gas that you spray into a bottle of wine to save it. When bottling or kegging, you can add a small amount of CO2 or wine saver gas to your bucket/container and/or each bottle you fill. This will keep out Oxygen. The gas is heavier than air and will line the bottom of the Keg/bucket/bottle with gas. When you add the beer, it sits under the layer of gas keeping away the O2.
3. Yeast: Proper pitching the proper amount of yeast, aeration and nutrition are really important. Too often brewers on this sight complain of stalled yeast, which is sometimes caused from not properly pitching the yeast. One vile/smack pack is fine for a simple low ABV ale, if the yeast is viable and hasn't begun to deteriorate. Yeast deteriorates over time so it is important to have fresh healthy yeast. It is my opinion that some beers would benefit from the use of a starter with one to two yeast vials/packs. See Mr. Malty's Yeast Calculator for the correct amount of yeast. The result of under pitching the correct amount of yeast is a diacetyl off flavor, which is a bad tasting buttery or butterscotch flavor.
4. Aeration and nutrients. Aeration and nutrients help the yeast build a strong outer skin and propagate. Shaking the carboy gives you about 8 parts per million (PPM) of O2, which is fine, but the target is 12 PPM. I prefer using an air pump along with an aeration stone and air filter will give you the right amount of about 12 PPM. Bottled O2 gas can give you 12 PPM and more if needed (i.e. High ABV Barley wines). A stainless steel aeration stone kit at your brew shop can hook up to a cheap O2 bottle from the hardware store, and works great. You should also include nutrients to boost the yeasts ability to propogate.
5. Temperature control: This is important when making most beers with the exception of a Saison. The best way to know what temp works best for the yeast, go to the manufacturers website. When your yeast is too cold it hibernates. When it is too hot, it gives off horrible off flavors similar to nail polish remover. The yeast flavors are part of the profile of the beer. So if you don't treat them correctly, your resulting beer will taste bad.
6. Water: This makes up a large portion of your beer. It is my opinion that unless you have fresh spring water, well or other natural source, you should at least have a carbon water filter in the line. For the best water control, try using Reverse Osmosis water and throw in 3 grams (and up to 5 grams) of Gypsum per 5 gallons for a bright taste that gives a dryness and accentuates the hops. For beers that you want a soft, sweet and opposite of dry, try 3-5 grams of Calcium Chloride.
In addition, improper pH can can result in sharp tanins and off flavors that are produced from the grain husk if the water pH is too high and sparging above 170°F. To control the pH of the Mash water: The easy route is to purchase "5.2 pH stabilizer" from the brew store, which requires only a tablespoon of additive and your done. The other way to control pH is with a meter and some form of acid (I use 25% Phosphoric Acid). Don't let this over whelm you. Go the easy route with pH stabilizer, but don't skip this step.
7. Excessive amount of hops: It’s clear we all like IPA beers. However, did you know that too many hops will give your beer a “grassy” taste, and in my opinion require a longer period to mellow. Thereby, causing a "green" beer off flavor at first. But, an awesome beer after mellowing.
8. Drinking the Beer too soon: With the exception of some light beers. Many taste "off" when their young. Especially Lagers, big IPA's and high ABV beers. Most beers require two weeks to mellow unless it is a low ABV and low hopped beer. Lagers require a Lagering period of 30 +/- days in freezing temps. Some high ABV beers need 6 months to a year to mellow out. Every beer is different, so if you taste it while young and it tastes "off," give it some time.
9. Changing a recipe: If you have a recipe that is known to have won competitions, or other people swear by it. Don’t change it the first time around. I know the temptation is big because you want to call it your own. However, you need an original recipe to compare your changes to. First time brewed beers should be done exactly as the recipe states. Then from there, you can make a judgment regarding any changes, additions or removal of ingredients.
10. Designing Beers: Great beer recipes are rarely great the first time out. If you are going to make a recipe and you want it to be great, you can expect to brew it multiple times before honing in on your perfect recipe. Get to know your ingredients.
Cheers,
The following is my edited version after many comments that were good, bad and some very funny. We can all use a laugh even if it is at our own selves. However, I see it as an opportunity to make it better.
The following are only simple and quick suggestions from my brewing experience since the early 80's. I am fully aware that this is not a comprehensive list and each of my suggestions may lack some advanced details. If you want to dig deeper into what causes off flavors in beer, there are plenty of books, online reading and the BJCP Judge certification programs, which has a very nice list of off flavors and causes, which is available for free.
1. Contamination. This is one of the common causes of off flavors I found while tasting and judging beers. Some were either "bottle bombs" or put to the side with a score under 30. Make sure that you have sanitary tools, buckets fermenter etc. When you transfer beer to the secondary, keg, bottling bucket and/or bottle your beers, this is a point where contamination can take place. This is resolved by cleaning with a non-perfumed soap followed by a sanitizer. Adding sugar to bottles for carbonation is another point to watch for contamination. The way to mitigate the risk of contamination is to boil water for approximately 20 minutes (releases 02 that have weak molecular connections to H20, which will help avoid oxidation), then add sugar to the boiled water and mix into the bottling bucket.
2. Oxidation: When your beer has finished fermenting, it is important that your beer keep away from oxygen/air. Pouring a finished beer into a bucket for bottling will expose your beer to 02 and oxidize the beer, which is fine if your not entering a competition. If you're new to brewing, you may not taste any oxidation. However, I've tasted too many beers that suffer from oxidation, which is a cardboard like flavor that makes your beer dull tasting. You can resolve oxidation problems by moving the beer slowly and gently to the next vessel. A more advanced method is to use a bottle of CO2. If you can’t afford it, or don’t want to go this route, go to a wine store and pick up a canister of wine saver. It is a bottle of gas that you spray into a bottle of wine to save it. When bottling or kegging, you can add a small amount of CO2 or wine saver gas to your bucket/container and/or each bottle you fill. This will keep out Oxygen. The gas is heavier than air and will line the bottom of the Keg/bucket/bottle with gas. When you add the beer, it sits under the layer of gas keeping away the O2.
3. Yeast: Proper pitching the proper amount of yeast, aeration and nutrition are really important. Too often brewers on this sight complain of stalled yeast, which is sometimes caused from not properly pitching the yeast. One vile/smack pack is fine for a simple low ABV ale, if the yeast is viable and hasn't begun to deteriorate. Yeast deteriorates over time so it is important to have fresh healthy yeast. It is my opinion that some beers would benefit from the use of a starter with one to two yeast vials/packs. See Mr. Malty's Yeast Calculator for the correct amount of yeast. The result of under pitching the correct amount of yeast is a diacetyl off flavor, which is a bad tasting buttery or butterscotch flavor.
4. Aeration and nutrients. Aeration and nutrients help the yeast build a strong outer skin and propagate. Shaking the carboy gives you about 8 parts per million (PPM) of O2, which is fine, but the target is 12 PPM. I prefer using an air pump along with an aeration stone and air filter will give you the right amount of about 12 PPM. Bottled O2 gas can give you 12 PPM and more if needed (i.e. High ABV Barley wines). A stainless steel aeration stone kit at your brew shop can hook up to a cheap O2 bottle from the hardware store, and works great. You should also include nutrients to boost the yeasts ability to propogate.
5. Temperature control: This is important when making most beers with the exception of a Saison. The best way to know what temp works best for the yeast, go to the manufacturers website. When your yeast is too cold it hibernates. When it is too hot, it gives off horrible off flavors similar to nail polish remover. The yeast flavors are part of the profile of the beer. So if you don't treat them correctly, your resulting beer will taste bad.
6. Water: This makes up a large portion of your beer. It is my opinion that unless you have fresh spring water, well or other natural source, you should at least have a carbon water filter in the line. For the best water control, try using Reverse Osmosis water and throw in 3 grams (and up to 5 grams) of Gypsum per 5 gallons for a bright taste that gives a dryness and accentuates the hops. For beers that you want a soft, sweet and opposite of dry, try 3-5 grams of Calcium Chloride.
In addition, improper pH can can result in sharp tanins and off flavors that are produced from the grain husk if the water pH is too high and sparging above 170°F. To control the pH of the Mash water: The easy route is to purchase "5.2 pH stabilizer" from the brew store, which requires only a tablespoon of additive and your done. The other way to control pH is with a meter and some form of acid (I use 25% Phosphoric Acid). Don't let this over whelm you. Go the easy route with pH stabilizer, but don't skip this step.
7. Excessive amount of hops: It’s clear we all like IPA beers. However, did you know that too many hops will give your beer a “grassy” taste, and in my opinion require a longer period to mellow. Thereby, causing a "green" beer off flavor at first. But, an awesome beer after mellowing.
8. Drinking the Beer too soon: With the exception of some light beers. Many taste "off" when their young. Especially Lagers, big IPA's and high ABV beers. Most beers require two weeks to mellow unless it is a low ABV and low hopped beer. Lagers require a Lagering period of 30 +/- days in freezing temps. Some high ABV beers need 6 months to a year to mellow out. Every beer is different, so if you taste it while young and it tastes "off," give it some time.
9. Changing a recipe: If you have a recipe that is known to have won competitions, or other people swear by it. Don’t change it the first time around. I know the temptation is big because you want to call it your own. However, you need an original recipe to compare your changes to. First time brewed beers should be done exactly as the recipe states. Then from there, you can make a judgment regarding any changes, additions or removal of ingredients.
10. Designing Beers: Great beer recipes are rarely great the first time out. If you are going to make a recipe and you want it to be great, you can expect to brew it multiple times before honing in on your perfect recipe. Get to know your ingredients.
Cheers,
