New mash tun drain

[kooch]

I'm working on building a new drain for my 15 gallon kettle. Attached is the mock up that will replace the current 3/8 inch soft copper line that was spiraled towards the center - which was increasingly difficult to clean completely. The new one is 1/2 inch copper and based on an octagon to maximize coverage of the space. Also, the 45 and T fittings should lift the assembly slightly without creating too much dead space. The plan is to solder together only enough so it still comes apart in pieces I can run a brush through to clean. I'll post more once I get farther.

 

[tre9er]

Looks good, how does it attach to the valve?

 

[kandofab]

It looks good. I have a question about the center legs. Are they capped? It would seem to me that when you go to clean it out stuff could get stuck on the dead end space. Other than that this is a real nice piece. Keep posting I would loike to see the end product and how it all gets connected.

 

[rekoob]

Looks good, how does it attach to the valve?

i think the tee in the middle will attach to the two tee's on the right and left, the center of the tee should then attach to the valve. looks like the two virtical pipes going to the center are capped off.

 

[tre9er]

i think the tee in the middle will attach to the two tee's on the right and left, the center of the tee should then attach to the valve. looks like the two virtical pipes going to the center are capped off.

duh, I see that now. There you go all making sense and such...

 

[rekoob]

duh, I see that now. There you go all making sense and such...

lol, it took me a minute of looking at it to see it too. I'm interested in how this design will work out.

 

[LuiInIdaho]

i think the tee in the middle will attach to the two tee's on the right and left, the center of the tee should then attach to the valve. looks like the two virtical pipes going to the center are capped off.

I was confused too about how you would have five connections coming into a T. Now I see how you plan to do it. I think that it should work. Mark

 

[socalboomer]

You don't really need to solder any of it... Mine will come completely apart if I need, although I haven't done it... The pieces should stay together pretty well with friction alone...

 

[kooch]

I'm most of the way there. I'll post another pic tomorrow. I'm soldering to prevent having a puzzle each time I brew. My mock up was pretty loose with all of the fittings. Also I'm thinking of drilling holes in the bottom of the rig instead of making cuts. Any thoughts on that approach? I figure the only reason not to do holes would be if the rig was completely flat on the bottom. Since the fittings keep it off the bottom slightly this is not any issue. I feel I can do the holes easier. Plus I can always make cuts if the holes don't work Thoughts?

 

[LuiInIdaho]

Your cross section might be stronger with holes than slots might allow. I think it would be more rigid, which is a good thing.

 

[socalboomer]

I like holes - I used a center punch (like this from HF - Go from this: http://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html) (kept the drill from sliding off the round surface) and just drilled about every inch. . . took my time and worked just fine.

 

[kooch]

Here is the assembled version and the breakdown for cleaning. Also included the old version. Only concern is the non soldered connection between the manifold and the straight pipe to the valve. If this leaks it will pull in air as soon as the fluid gets below that level and could potentially leave headspace below. I'll drill it out and will do some testing this weekend. Results to follow. Otherwise I'm happy with how it has turned out so far.