New BIAB False Bottoms
- Thread starter Bobby_M
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I'm curious if people have had good luck with the "pizza pan" style false bottoms? I tried one and found that between my fine grind and steelhead pump it crushed the pan. I bought a perforated false bottom form NorCal Brewing. The thing is a tank and has held up well.
I've been working on overcoming the stuck mash problem. I've opened the gap on my mill, which helped. My next step is to make up a conical bag in hopes that it can act more like the rigid mesh baskets people have been using.
I've been working on overcoming the stuck mash problem. I've opened the gap on my mill, which helped. My next step is to make up a conical bag in hopes that it can act more like the rigid mesh baskets people have been using.
OP
OP
That's what the mostly open design is meant to fix. Whatever you use, where the bag lays on a flat surface it just isn't flowing there. I think something as simple as laying a few metal skewers across the false bottom would help.
brewprint
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I think a basket would solve these issues.
On my new system I have the Spike 20 gallon kettle. The smaller 14.75" screen will fit perfectly in the smaller diameter bottom.
Since I will be using a basket there will be no worry of the bag getting sucked down during the recirculation.
This is why I went with a basket instead of a bag.
The baskets are overpriced to say the least. I paid $200 for a 16" diameter and 15" tall basket.
If someone knew of someone that could make these, the cost would go down significantly. They're making a killing on these things to say the least.
The basket was half the price of my custom Spike kettle! Can you say rip off?
On my new system I have the Spike 20 gallon kettle. The smaller 14.75" screen will fit perfectly in the smaller diameter bottom.
Since I will be using a basket there will be no worry of the bag getting sucked down during the recirculation.
This is why I went with a basket instead of a bag.
The baskets are overpriced to say the least. I paid $200 for a 16" diameter and 15" tall basket.
If someone knew of someone that could make these, the cost would go down significantly. They're making a killing on these things to say the least.
The basket was half the price of my custom Spike kettle! Can you say rip off?
ZmannR2
Well-Known Member
Looking at the picture, it seems the center bolt will be in the way of my ripple heating element, is it removable?
ZmannR2
Well-Known Member
Sweet so the 1444 (13.5" diameter) will be fine with a 13" model? If so when will it be available?
I have this false bottom for my 15g MegaPot. There is a small gap about 1" around the side which has no functional effect. The middle support post does not interfere with the ripple element. Consider me a happy customer; I'm very pleased with this false bottom.
Me too. I'd like one to fit the Bayou Classic 1124.
OP
OP
Unfortunately I cannot make a 12 at this time because my minimum on any size is 100 units. That would take 5 years to sell through.
ZmannR2
Well-Known Member
I'm curious to this as well
OP
OP
About a 3/8 to 1/2" seems about right to me. It's even closer in my kettle but I only have 2 batches on it so far.
Hey Bobby hows the time frame look for the new sizes? I'm anxious to get my hands on the 17.5" and ditch my pizza tin
OP
OP
Late next week
ZmannR2
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Sweet. The 13" will work on the bayou 1044 it looks like so I'll grab one for sure
andrewmaixner
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hi, two questions:
1) how can I order an extra set of screws with the false bottom, so I have 3.5 and 2 inch on hand?
2) I saw a comment on the product page by someone saying that on theirs, the screw legs bent at the nut/fittings location where they attach to the screen, due to the weight of their grain bag. Has anyone else experienced that? does it work fine for say, up 40lb of grain (as long as you don't do something silly like drain the kettle with the grain bag + water weight still sitting on it)?
1) how can I order an extra set of screws with the false bottom, so I have 3.5 and 2 inch on hand?
2) I saw a comment on the product page by someone saying that on theirs, the screw legs bent at the nut/fittings location where they attach to the screen, due to the weight of their grain bag. Has anyone else experienced that? does it work fine for say, up 40lb of grain (as long as you don't do something silly like drain the kettle with the grain bag + water weight still sitting on it)?
I'm going to be doing a 37 lb grain bill next month. I'll let you know, but hopefully you'll get an answer before then.
roblanderson
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Do you have an update? Would love to order one before my next brew!
Just to chime in with an update, I've used mine twice now. Getting better recirculation than I ever have. Great product, and now brew days are more relaxed because I'm not paranoid about pulling the wort level down and dry firing the element.
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the update. I ordered it (along with a new custom eBIAB setup) a couple days ago, hopefully my system will be up and running in a couple weeks
Brewcycle69
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Used this for the first time last weekend, worked great; as mentioned above, recirculation was great. I don't have to worry about the recirculation piece of the brew day any longer. I was using a regular false bottom but never got the recirculation flow I was looking for; I was getting about 72% mash efficiency. I was playing around with flow rates vs grain bed compact, on max flow it didn't take long for the grain bed to compact hard as a brick. Around 25% of max flow is gave me a grain bed that felt right (I have no idea how to characterize that in terms of feel or any useful parameter.) I was back up to 80% mash efficiency, I did stir a couple of times but now that I understand the flow rate better don't think I'll need to in the future. Great solution for those who recirculate.
Bobby: Do you know when the 14.75" diameter false bottoms will be back in stock?
Also, Ive currently been using a similar basket below with the Wilser bag and have had a terrible time recirculating. Right now there is about a 1" gap between the the basket and kettle, but I'm afraid if i ditch the basket and only use the bag then the only area the mash will be able to escape the bag is from the bottom and with a fine crush it seems to get clogged quickly. Any recommendations?
Also, Ive currently been using a similar basket below with the Wilser bag and have had a terrible time recirculating. Right now there is about a 1" gap between the the basket and kettle, but I'm afraid if i ditch the basket and only use the bag then the only area the mash will be able to escape the bag is from the bottom and with a fine crush it seems to get clogged quickly. Any recommendations?
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
Well, I added that comment to my order, it arrived today, and I think Bobby just added in the extra set of taller screws for free!
Thanks!
OP
OP
All three sizes should be on the website by Monday evening.
OP
OP
They are on the website now.
roblanderson
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Bought the 17.5" for my 20 gallon Spike v3 kettle - really looking forward to using it once it arrives.
For those of you who have already brewed with one of these, do you remove it after the mash and before the boil? Or do you just leave it in place during the boil?
For those of you who have already brewed with one of these, do you remove it after the mash and before the boil? Or do you just leave it in place during the boil?
I just left it in place. You could do either.
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
It will keep an immersion chiller off your element later if you leave it in
OP
OP
I leave mine in.
This shouldn't matter. The chiller weighs next to nothing when submerged in wort.
OP
OP
It's not really about the weight but the fact that a chiller doesn't sit very nicely on an element.
Can't argue with that.
I was excited to try out my new 17.5" false bottom yesterday and ditch my pizza tin for good. I put in 4 legs on outer ring and left out the middle leg as my heating element was in the way.
When putting it in the pot its a great fit. There is also no discernible flex in it like there was with my pizza tin.
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Brewing
In the past I had some issues with my pizza tin restricting the flow too much back to the bottom of my pot where the outlet feeds my recirc pump. This false bottom has excellent circulation.
My problem occurred after the mash started. I was mashing at 153 degrees when I heard a metallic POP. Shortly thereafter a few more POPS.
Looking in pot after draining I can see all 4 legs had issues
Removing bottom I see
**************************************
I don't know much about welding, but the welds from the nuts to the wire are tiny. I'd reason the weld size is insufficient for the thermal expansion/contraction. I am also surprised some of the welds on the outer ring broke (small gauge wire attached to the outer ring).
I'm wondering if there is a way to use stainless steel washers to give a much larger surface area to weld to. Even if the nut was welded to the top of the washer I cant see that hurting anything.
The potential for this product is 5 star and I think a must have for a Biab'er, but it needs some revision because its not quite right yet.
When putting it in the pot its a great fit. There is also no discernible flex in it like there was with my pizza tin.
*****************************
Brewing
In the past I had some issues with my pizza tin restricting the flow too much back to the bottom of my pot where the outlet feeds my recirc pump. This false bottom has excellent circulation.
My problem occurred after the mash started. I was mashing at 153 degrees when I heard a metallic POP. Shortly thereafter a few more POPS.
Looking in pot after draining I can see all 4 legs had issues
Removing bottom I see
**************************************
I don't know much about welding, but the welds from the nuts to the wire are tiny. I'd reason the weld size is insufficient for the thermal expansion/contraction. I am also surprised some of the welds on the outer ring broke (small gauge wire attached to the outer ring).
I'm wondering if there is a way to use stainless steel washers to give a much larger surface area to weld to. Even if the nut was welded to the top of the washer I cant see that hurting anything.
The potential for this product is 5 star and I think a must have for a Biab'er, but it needs some revision because its not quite right yet.
As promised, a follow up. This past weekend I did a 31 lb grain bill for a brown IPA in my 62 quart Bayou Classic. Ten gallon batch. Mine held up just fine under the load.
BoilCoil users...
I purchased the false bottom (with the 3.5" screw size) for use in a SSBREWTECH 15gal Kettle and it fits just fine. Should work just as well in a Blichmann kettle.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1467419152.391706.jpg
I purchased the false bottom (with the 3.5" screw size) for use in a SSBREWTECH 15gal Kettle and it fits just fine. Should work just as well in a Blichmann kettle.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1467419152.391706.jpg
OP
OP
I was excited to try out my new 17.5" false bottom yesterday and ditch my pizza tin for good. I put in 4 legs on outer ring and left out the middle leg as my heating element was in the way.
When putting it in the pot its a great fit. There is also no discernible flex in it like there was with my pizza tin.
*****************************
Brewing
In the past I had some issues with my pizza tin restricting the flow too much back to the bottom of my pot where the outlet feeds my recirc pump. This false bottom has excellent circulation.
My problem occurred after the mash started. I was mashing at 153 degrees when I heard a metallic POP. Shortly thereafter a few more POPS.
Looking in pot after draining I can see all 4 legs had issues
Removing bottom I see
**************************************
I don't know much about welding, but the welds from the nuts to the wire are tiny. I'd reason the weld size is insufficient for the thermal expansion/contraction. I am also surprised some of the welds on the outer ring broke (small gauge wire attached to the outer ring).
I'm wondering if there is a way to use stainless steel washers to give a much larger surface area to weld to. Even if the nut was welded to the top of the washer I cant see that hurting anything.
The potential for this product is 5 star and I think a must have for a Biab'er, but it needs some revision because its not quite right yet.
I agree that the welded nuts need to be reconsidered for the 17.5" version. They work fine on the 13" and 14.75 but at that large of a disc, 5 legs is not enough for the hydraulic pressure created during recirculation. With the fine crush everyone is using for BIAB, bags don't flow as freely as you'd like. Once you get to a certain point, the bag is holding back more liquid and you pull a vacuum on the space beneath.
For now I'm going to try augmenting the 5 legs with another 4 bolted straight through the mesh with washers above and below.
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I'd be curious about your feedback on the false bottom and the boilcoil (4500watt I assume) after you've done a batch. I think Blichmann recommends that their element not be used to directly heat the mash, not sure if this even applies in BIAB.
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