Need some help ...

[doublebogey10]

diagnosing my CO2 leak issue in my draft system.
I built this keezer about 2.5 years ago. Everything was great for more than a year. Since last winter however, I've had on-and-off leak problems where I am blowing through CO2 tanks in a week or less.
I've swapped out regulators with a spare one I had. I'm on my second four-way distributor. I've tighten and re-tightened hose clamps. I've even swapped out some kegs lids because I felt maybe I wasn't getting a good seal. Sometimes, I'll go a month or more and be good. This last time I put in a new CO2 tank, it was Saturday and I walked out to my garage last night (Tuesday) and tank was empty.
I'm going out tonight with new tank and bottle of starsan to try bubble test on everything again. But this is beyond frustrating an am open to any suggestions on what else too look at.
Many thanks ...

 

[owmatooth]

I got my money on the tank to regulator connection. especially if it's on and off and that quick. nothing should have changed on the rest of your connections. amazing how much you really need that stupid cardboard washer they usually give you when you swap your tanks.

 

[nDub]

I'm going with owmatooth.

I had a similar leak until I started using one (mine are plastic/crushable).

 

[kh54s10]

I got my money on the tank to regulator connection. especially if it's on and off and that quick. nothing should have changed on the rest of your connections. amazing how much you really need that stupid cardboard washer they usually give you when you swap your tanks.

Cardboard washer?? I have some nylon and silicone, maybe rubber ones but Cardboard??

 

[nDub]

Maybe mine are nylon. Feels like plastic.

 

[doublebogey10]

Pretty sure mine is plastic or nylon, but that's a good thought. Will check that tonight.

 

[LLBeanJ]

That's a Taprite regulator, so you have a rubber flat O-ring. They last a long time, but do wear out, so could be your problem. The sealing surface tends to get chewed up over time. If that's not it, I'd suspect a bad hose clamp (or several). Ditch the worm clamps and invest in Oetiker clamps. I never had much luck with the worm style.

Also, as you mentioned, could very well be a bad lid seal. When you put the fresh tank on, pressurize everything up, then turn off the tank valve and close all the shut off valves on the 4-way manifold. Wait a day or two and try purging the CO2 in each keg to see if any have lost all pressure. If all the kegs hold pressure, open up one valve on the 4-way and wait another couple days. Check the pressure in the keg associated with that line. Continue to do this until you've verified all lines hold pressure with the valves open. Keep working backwards until you get to the tank. Just be methodical as you work your way through it and you'll find your leak(s).

 

[Sdiddy84]

I had similar issues lately. Couldn't find the leak with a spray bottle. I decided I'd take a pitcher of water and I dipped each gas disconnect in it and found the leak. My plan was to dip everything up to the regulator. (PS dont ever dip your regulator in water, it WILL damage the diaphragm) I have a 3-way manifold, but the last gas disconnect was the issue. I disconnected the gas and tightened up the connection from the hose to disconnected and resolved the issue.

 

[jcav]

+1 on the Oetiker clamps. I use them on all of my connections gas and liquid on my kegging system and kegerator and have zero issues. Something to think about. Also make sure the Co2 tank valve knob is screwed ALL the way open when you are using it as is can leak if not in this position and only partially open.

John

 

[LLBeanJ]

Also make sure the Co2 tank valve knob is screwed ALL the way open when you are using it as is can leak if not in this position and only partially open.

Yes, I completely forgot about this and jcav has a totally valid point here. The tank valve is designed to be either fully open or fully closed, not somewhere in between.

 

[owmatooth]

i didn't know about the tank valve caring about whether it was mostly open or fully open. I will be opening up my tanks as soon as I get home. Learn something new here everyday.

 

[doublebogey10]

So this regulator that I am using now, it has the rubber gasket thing built in. Have never used the washer with that because I was under the impression I didn't need to. Should I put the washer in?

 

[LLBeanJ]

No, you don't need it with Taprite regulators.

 

[doublebogey10]

i didn't know about the tank valve caring about whether it was mostly open or fully open. I will be opening up my tanks as soon as I get home. Learn something new here everyday.

Same

 

[doublebogey10]

No, you don't need it with Taprite regulators.

Is it a problem if I do use it?

 

[jmcquesten]

Is it a problem if I do use it?

For me, it's a problem if I DON'T use one. For most people, they can get away without, but I've had other results.

 

[LLBeanJ]

Is it a problem if I do use it?

You can if you want to, but unless the o-ring is damaged, you don't need it. I have three Taprites and the built-in o-ring always does the job.

 

[owmatooth]

I've got regulators from mircomatic and keg co, both have built in white washers, and I lost about three tanks trying to find a leak with the micromatic one (before my keezer). I finally started using the fiber cardboard looking washers my co2 place gave with every refill and i didn't have any more leaks. I'd guess the micromatic regulator i've used for about two years before it started leaking and needing the extra washer.

 

[doublebogey10]

If I have the valve closed going from regulator to the four-way manifold, shouldn't that theoretically tell me if the leak is in the regulator?

 

[jmcquesten]

If I have the valve closed going from regulator to the four-way manifold, shouldn't that theoretically tell me if the leak is in the regulator?

What valve do you have between the regulator and manifold? Any connection point could be leaking.

 

[jmcquesten]

Cardboard washer?? I have some nylon and silicone, maybe rubber ones but Cardboard??

They call it a "fiber washer", but it does feel like a very dense cardboard. They crush to make the seal and are single use. I tried reusing one once and had a leak. My regulator and tank both have black rubber o-rings set in a recess. Without the fiber washer, my setup will leak. I think part of my issue is the fact that there are 2 o-rings, which I don't think would seal well against each other.

 

[owmatooth]

If I have the valve closed going from regulator to the four-way manifold, shouldn't that theoretically tell me if the leak is in the regulator?

yes, I'd shut off the valve coming off the regulator and open the tank valve completely. then spray the bejesus on the tank with star san and watch for the bubbles. can be from anywhere, but I'd still suspect the regulator to tank connection.

 

[jmcquesten]

Oh yeah, also check the weap hole on the back of the regulator. I have a regulator that needs a rebuild kit because it leaks from the weap hole. It took a while to figure that one out. Spray it with starsan or soapy water.