Need help! Goofed up my 1st brew (no activity in airlock). How to salvage it ?

[AnbyG]

So 10 days back I tried brewing my very first batch of beer with the recently purchased the Brew Share Enjoy™ Homebrew Starter Kit from Northern Brewer. I tried to do everything as per the instructions regarding preparation of the wort, sanitation, pitching the yeast etc. However, I had some StarSan foam in the primary when I added the wort (although many threads have said no issues with that) and I did not shake the fermenter vigorously for extended perod of time to oxygenate the wort prior to pitching. I noticed some bubbles right after I introduced the yeast, but this could be bubbles from StarSan breaking up.

And then from the next day onwards there has been no activity in the airlock. So something happened here, probably due to my fault, which basically stopped fermentation. My container is sealed properly, since if I press down on the plastic lid slowly, the water level on one side of the airlock rises over the other. I measured the temperature before pitching the yeast and it was 68-70 Fahrenheit.

What are my options here to salvage this ? As per recommendation in some threads on this forum, I purchased some new amber ale yeast to pitch it again. I have not opened the lid of the primary fermentation bucket yet, but I do see some stuff settling down at the bottom. I intend to vigorously shake the wort again before pitching and will pitch the yeast through the airlock using a funnel, since opening the lid might lead to a bigger risk of contamination.

Is this the right strategy at this point ? What else can I do ?

Thanks in advance!

Anby

 

[jjw5015]

Before you do anything, take a gravity reading! If it hasn't changed at all, then pitch more yeast. Chances are it did ferment. Can't always rely on airlock activity.

 

[Enemygod]

I intend to vigorously shake the wort again before pitching and will pitch the yeast through the airlock using a funnel, since opening the lid might lead to a bigger risk of contamination.

I agree with jjw. If the gravity reading shows that any fermentation at all has taken place I would not shake and introduce oxygen into it. At that point, you would no longer want oxygen getting into your beer.

 

[flars]

Sounds like you did everything right. Your beer is probably done fermenting. Pull the air lock and look in while shining a flash light on the side of the bucket. You will probably see remnants of yeast rafts floating on the surface of your beer. The ten day point is a good time to take the first SG reading. Wait a few days and take a second reading.

edit: What was your fermentation temperature?

 

[AnbyG]

Before you do anything, take a gravity reading! If it hasn't changed at all, then pitch more yeast. Chances are it did ferment. Can't always rely on airlock activity.

I agree with jjw. If the gravity reading shows that any fermentation at all has taken place I would not shake and introduce oxygen into it. At that point, you would no longer want oxygen getting into your beer.

Actually, this is the biggest goof up I did. I did not take the gravity reading before I sealed the fermenter. I had it ready, I just forgot to do it before I sealed the fermenter.

Sounds like you did everything right. Your beer is probably done fermenting. Pull the air lock and look in while shining a flash light on the side of the bucket. You will probably see remnants of yeast rafts floating on the surface of your beer. The ten day point is a good time to take the first SG reading. Wait a few days and take a second reading.

edit: What was your fermentation temperature?

My do not have any temperature control in my setup. When I pitched the yeast it was 68-70 fahrenheit and it has been sitting in one corner of the kitchen. I have touched the outside time and again and it did not feel any hotter than the ambient. The temperature in my house is generally a steady 70 fahrenheit or so.

Now is there any way to find out if there has been any fermentation without taking any gravity reading since I did not take any reading of the wort ? I can take one today and then one in another 2 days. Yeast rafts are good indicators of fermentation gone right ?

Now the question is, do I pitch this additional yeast that I have got when I take the reading ?

 

[EcuPirate07]

Actually, this is the biggest goof up I did. I did not take the gravity reading before I sealed the fermenter. I had it ready, I just forgot to do it before I sealed the fermenter.



My do not have any temperature control in my setup. When I pitched the yeast it was 68-70 fahrenheit and it has been sitting in one corner of the kitchen. I have touched the outside time and again and it did not feel any hotter than the ambient. The temperature in my house is generally a steady 70 fahrenheit or so.

Now is there any way to find out if there has been any fermentation without taking any gravity reading since I did not take any reading of the wort ? I can take one today and then one in another 2 days. Yeast rafts are good indicators of fermentation gone right ?

Now the question is, do I pitch this additional yeast that I have got when I take the reading ?

You can still take a gravity reading. Most times fermentation will end around 1.010 maybe a little higher maybe a little lower if it's around there it's probably done you just won't really know abv for the most part. Don't ever shake the fermenter after you pitch the yeast. At most a light swirl without splashing the wort otherwise you introduce 02 which will produce off flavor's. 02 is only good for beer before pitching yeast. Also your are probably fermenting too high even if the house is 70 the yeast can actually increase the worts temp during fermentation by 4-6 degrees if not more so you are probably on the high end if not over on the yeast temp range. At worst you should look into swamp cooling you could search it in this fourm.

 

[bucketnative]

Plus, when you open the fermenter to take a gravity reading, you will be able to see if fermentation occured. Telltale signs are a pungent/burning odor of CO2 (it converts to carbonic acid and burns your nostrils), residual yeast rafts floating on the surface, and a distinct ring of hop/yeast residue on the walls of the fermenter above the (hopefully) beer level.

 

[DanPG]

I'm in a similar situation. Very low airlock activity. I pitched my yeast 4/5 days ago now and nothing to show for. I haven't added my hops in yet as my recipe recommended that I leave it until the airlock bubbles reach less than 1 per 30 seconds. I don't know if I have a faulty air lock or the low temperature here in the UK is to blame? It started off at around 20°c, but after I realised it was this low after a day, I moved an electric radiator in there which raised it to 24°c. Should I be worried? Or rely on the gravity readings as above?

 

[Calder]

TAKE A GRAVITY MEASUREMENT. If the fermenter has a leak at a seal, you will not see any bubbles. Get a gravity reading of where it is now, and then come back for advice. It is very possible the beer has finished fermenting.

 

[GPP33]

I'll jump on the "take a gravity reading" band wagon. You'll know if it fermented. If it's above 1.05ish you have wort, if it's below 1.02ish you have beer. Just about all styles will meet this guideline.

Regarding ferm temp.... if anything you fermented too warm which will likely result in a quicker fermentation, not a stalled fermentation. Starsan bubbles aren't to blame and it sounds like you did everything else right. I'd bet my next batch of beer that you just had a slight leak in the lid (which is sealed when you press down on it) and you have a killer brew waiting for you in that bucket.

If your gravity is still high repitch without shaking. Shaking isn't necessary for fermentation and at this point would have more risks than benefits.

Relax, don't worry, and you'll soon be drinking home brew!

 

[RM-MN]

I'm in a similar situation. Very low airlock activity. I pitched my yeast 4/5 days ago now and nothing to show for. I haven't added my hops in yet as my recipe recommended that I leave it until the airlock bubbles reach less than 1 per 30 seconds. I don't know if I have a faulty air lock or the low temperature here in the UK is to blame? It started off at around 20°c, but after I realised it was this low after a day, I moved an electric radiator in there which raised it to 24°c. Should I be worried? Or rely on the gravity readings as above?

Throw that recipe away. I have one fermenter that always gives me airlock activity, one that never does, and one that can't decide whether to bubble the airlock or not. Airlocks are merely supposed to be there to vent excess gasses while keeping bugs out. They are not an indicator of fermentation. Your hydrometer does that function so learn to use it.

 

[RM-MN]

Actually, this is the biggest goof up I did. I did not take the gravity reading before I sealed the fermenter. I had it ready, I just forgot to do it before I sealed the fermenter.



My do not have any temperature control in my setup. When I pitched the yeast it was 68-70 fahrenheit and it has been sitting in one corner of the kitchen. I have touched the outside time and again and it did not feel any hotter than the ambient. The temperature in my house is generally a steady 70 fahrenheit or so.

Now is there any way to find out if there has been any fermentation without taking any gravity reading since I did not take any reading of the wort ? I can take one today and then one in another 2 days. Yeast rafts are good indicators of fermentation gone right ?

Now the question is, do I pitch this additional yeast that I have got when I take the reading ?

This might have been one of the best goof ups you will ever do. Most often a new brewer with an extract kit with top off water will get an erroneous reading because the concentrated wort didn't mix well with the top off water and they will fret because it doesn't have a high enough OG or will be elated because their OG is much higher than the kit predicted. By not taking the OG, you have avoided that trap.

Most often the beer kits will have an OG listed in the instructions but if not we can reasonably guess that it should have been between 1.050 and 1.055, A few kits may have a higher OG but that is usually reflected with a higher cost. You'll know if you got one of those. Those beers should have a final gravity in the range of 1.012 to 1.020 so that will give you some indication of how well your beer fermented.

Without temperature control the yeast would often rip through the sugars and be done with the active part of the fermenation within a couple days. You will be able to tell by looking into the fermenter as there should be a ring of "gunk" above the beer where the krausen has been. If you have that ring, your beer fermented.

 

[jpakstis]

My first brew, extract lime yours, I didn't get any bubbles out of the airlock. I checked it a couple of times and saw signs of fermentation (krausen forming, bubbles coming off the top, a feeling of outward pressure on the bucket Ellis, etc.) but still no bubbles in the airlock. Then I realized I didn't have enough water in the airlock and when I topped it off it bubbled like I wanted it to. I know airlock activity is not a reliable indicator but it's fun to see the airlock rattling around (and it's fun to tell the kids the yeast are burping). If you see signs of fermentation if you take a peek under the lid (it won't oxidize the wort) then you're all good. Extract kits are fairly idiot-proof. Same thing with not taking a gravity reading. Whatever the predicted OG was on the kit is pretty close to your actual OG unless you deviated a lot from it (forgot to put in all the extract or topped off too much water).

As for the "wait until airlock activity has slowed" instruction those were on all the extract kits I had. It's not a hard-and-fast determination that fermentation is complete but in my opinion is close enough.

 

[Jim311]

Buckets sometimes don't seal real well and make it difficult to judge ferementation. Open the lid and just taste it. If it tastes sweet, it hasn't fermented. If it tastes like flat beer then you've made beer. Use your hydrometer to check the final gravity and if it's around 1.010 or so then it's probably done.

 

[AnbyG]

You can still take a gravity reading. Most times fermentation will end around 1.010 maybe a little higher maybe a little lower if it's around there it's probably done you just won't really know abv for the most part. Don't ever shake the fermenter after you pitch the yeast. At most a light swirl without splashing the wort otherwise you introduce 02 which will produce off flavor's. 02 is only good for beer before pitching yeast. Also your are probably fermenting too high even if the house is 70 the yeast can actually increase the worts temp during fermentation by 4-6 degrees if not more so you are probably on the high end if not over on the yeast temp range. At worst you should look into swamp cooling you could search it in this fourm.

The recipe for my brew says that the O.G. is 1.042. I followed the procedure to the letter, with the exact volume of water and all, so I guess I can know about the fermentation by measuring the specific gravity.

I do intend to acquire some sort of cooling setup in near future. I need to check if I can build one myself.

Plus, when you open the fermenter to take a gravity reading, you will be able to see if fermentation occured. Telltale signs are a pungent/burning odor of CO2 (it converts to carbonic acid and burns your nostrils), residual yeast rafts floating on the surface, and a distinct ring of hop/yeast residue on the walls of the fermenter above the (hopefully) beer level.

I moved the fermenter a bit so a little bit of hop + yeast must have touched the wall. I need to see if there are yeast rafts though. I could not get to it yesterday after work, but certainly the first thing I will do once I am home tonight.

TAKE A GRAVITY MEASUREMENT. If the fermenter has a leak at a seal, you will not see any bubbles. Get a gravity reading of where it is now, and then come back for advice. It is very possible the beer has finished fermenting.

I don't think it has a leak, but I have no way of being certain. Next time I will certainly wrap around the lid tightly with a plastic wrap.

I'll jump on the "take a gravity reading" band wagon. You'll know if it fermented. If it's above 1.05ish you have wort, if it's below 1.02ish you have beer. Just about all styles will meet this guideline.

Regarding ferm temp.... if anything you fermented too warm which will likely result in a quicker fermentation, not a stalled fermentation. Starsan bubbles aren't to blame and it sounds like you did everything else right. I'd bet my next batch of beer that you just had a slight leak in the lid (which is sealed when you press down on it) and you have a killer brew waiting for you in that bucket.

If your gravity is still high repitch without shaking. Shaking isn't necessary for fermentation and at this point would have more risks than benefits.

Relax, don't worry, and you'll soon be drinking home brew!

I will open it tonight and checked the specific gravity. I will report back with what I see and what is the specific gravity as soon as I do that. Lesson learnt though, seal the lid of the fermenter with some right plastic wrap to make sure there is no leak, unless there is a better way to do that.

 

[AnbyG]

This might have been one of the best goof ups you will ever do. Most often a new brewer with an extract kit with top off water will get an erroneous reading because the concentrated wort didn't mix well with the top off water and they will fret because it doesn't have a high enough OG or will be elated because their OG is much higher than the kit predicted. By not taking the OG, you have avoided that trap.

Most often the beer kits will have an OG listed in the instructions but if not we can reasonably guess that it should have been between 1.050 and 1.055, A few kits may have a higher OG but that is usually reflected with a higher cost. You'll know if you got one of those. Those beers should have a final gravity in the range of 1.012 to 1.020 so that will give you some indication of how well your beer fermented.

Without temperature control the yeast would often rip through the sugars and be done with the active part of the fermenation within a couple days. You will be able to tell by looking into the fermenter as there should be a ring of "gunk" above the beer where the krausen has been. If you have that ring, your beer fermented.

I don't want my next brew to be with malt extracts, but with real malt. Maybe then the wort will be more consistent. If this turns out good, I will bottle it with priming sugar added in, and brew the next batch.

My first brew, extract lime yours, I didn't get any bubbles out of the airlock. I checked it a couple of times and saw signs of fermentation (krausen forming, bubbles coming off the top, a feeling of outward pressure on the bucket Ellis, etc.) but still no bubbles in the airlock. Then I realized I didn't have enough water in the airlock and when I topped it off it bubbled like I wanted it to. I know airlock activity is not a reliable indicator but it's fun to see the airlock rattling around (and it's fun to tell the kids the yeast are burping). If you see signs of fermentation if you take a peek under the lid (it won't oxidize the wort) then you're all good. Extract kits are fairly idiot-proof. Same thing with not taking a gravity reading. Whatever the predicted OG was on the kit is pretty close to your actual OG unless you deviated a lot from it (forgot to put in all the extract or topped off too much water).

As for the "wait until airlock activity has slowed" instruction those were on all the extract kits I had. It's not a hard-and-fast determination that fermentation is complete but in my opinion is close enough.

I am not worried as much about the oxygen ruining the wort as much as about contamination. I will wipe the lid and everything I touch with StarSan before opening the lid tonight.

 

[RM-MN]

I don't want my next brew to be with malt extracts, but with real malt. Maybe then the wort will be more consistent. If this turns out good, I will bottle it with priming sugar added in, and brew the next batch.



I am not worried as much about the oxygen ruining the wort as much as about contamination. I will wipe the lid and everything I touch with StarSan before opening the lid tonight.

Beer is fairly hard to contaminate. Pop the lid open, take the sample, put the lid back on. The only thing I use Starsan on is the turkey baster that goes directly into the beer.

I'll agree with your plan to brew with all grain. I did too many extract kits before I had the guts to try all grain. Once I tried, it was hard to go back and brew the couple extract kits I already had bought. You'll need a boil pot bigger than you expect. I'd say a minumum of 8 gallon pot for a 5 gallon batch but 10 would be better and easier to avoid boilovers. I'd suggest you spend some time in the BIAB forum and learn that technique for at least your first couple batches all grain as it takes out some of the possible problems. You may decide that you want to stick with it as it can be fast and easy.

 

[EcuPirate07]

The recipe for my brew says that the O.G. is 1.042. I followed the procedure to the letter, with the exact volume of water and all, so I guess I can know about the fermentation by measuring the specific gravity.

I do intend to acquire some sort of cooling setup in near future. I need to check if I can build one myself.



I moved the fermenter a bit so a little bit of hop + yeast must have touched the wall. I need to see if there are yeast rafts though. I could not get to it yesterday after work, but certainly the first thing I will do once I am home tonight.



I don't think it has a leak, but I have no way of being certain. Next time I will certainly wrap around the lid tightly with a plastic wrap.



I will open it tonight and checked the specific gravity. I will report back with what I see and what is the specific gravity as soon as I do that. Lesson learnt though, seal the lid of the fermenter with some right plastic wrap to make sure there is no leak, unless there is a better way to do that.

Honestly don't worry about wrapping the lid with plastic wrap it's a waste of your time and money. Some people don't even actually secure their lid they just place it on top (which I don't recommend) I guess the point I as well as everyone else is trying to hit home is don't worry about the bubbler.. I know it's hard not too as a new brewer but that gives no true indication of fermentation. Just wait 10-14 days and take a hydrometer reading.

 

[GPP33]

Honestly don't worry about wrapping the lid with plastic wrap it's a waste of your time and money. Some people don't even actually secure their lid they just place it on top (which I don't recommend) I guess the point I as well as everyone else is trying to hit home is don't worry about the bubbler.. I know it's hard not too as a new brewer but that gives no true indication of fermentation. Just wait 10-14 days and take a hydrometer reading.

^this. Don't worry about trying to seal it. Let it do it's thing for a couple weeks then check gravity. Ignore the airlock. When I first started I counted the bubbles per minute, the bubbling sound was the best thing I ever heard, it almost hypnotized me. Now I hardly even notice it. I let it sit for two weeks, checking temp every day before work and bed, check gravity and clarity, and keg (assuming it got to about where I wanted it).

The nice thing about glass carboys is you can see what's happening. You can see signs of fermentation and you can see that it's ended and the beer is cleard up. My last two beers were a Saison and and IPA, the Saison took about 12 days to clear up, the IPA took about 5. I'd recemond ditching the bucket, but that's just my 2 cents.

 

[AnbyG]

Beer is fairly hard to contaminate. Pop the lid open, take the sample, put the lid back on. The only thing I use Starsan on is the turkey baster that goes directly into the beer.

I'll agree with your plan to brew with all grain. I did too many extract kits before I had the guts to try all grain. Once I tried, it was hard to go back and brew the couple extract kits I already had bought. You'll need a boil pot bigger than you expect. I'd say a minumum of 8 gallon pot for a 5 gallon batch but 10 would be better and easier to avoid boilovers. I'd suggest you spend some time in the BIAB forum and learn that technique for at least your first couple batches all grain as it takes out some of the possible problems. You may decide that you want to stick with it as it can be fast and easy.

My next brews will be smaller, 3 gallons at max. I want to brew more frequently to speed up the learning process, I am brand new to it, so large batches is not something I want to go for. So I think the pot that came with the kit should probably work.

Honestly don't worry about wrapping the lid with plastic wrap it's a waste of your time and money. Some people don't even actually secure their lid they just place it on top (which I don't recommend) I guess the point I as well as everyone else is trying to hit home is don't worry about the bubbler.. I know it's hard not too as a new brewer but that gives no true indication of fermentation. Just wait 10-14 days and take a hydrometer reading.

^this. Don't worry about trying to seal it. Let it do it's thing for a couple weeks then check gravity. Ignore the airlock. When I first started I counted the bubbles per minute, the bubbling sound was the best thing I ever heard, it almost hypnotized me. Now I hardly even notice it. I let it sit for two weeks, checking temp every day before work and bed, check gravity and clarity, and keg (assuming it got to about where I wanted it).

The nice thing about glass carboys is you can see what's happening. You can see signs of fermentation and you can see that it's ended and the beer is cleard up. My last two beers were a Saison and and IPA, the Saison took about 12 days to clear up, the IPA took about 5. I'd recemond ditching the bucket, but that's just my 2 cents.

What do you think of transparent plastic carboys ? I intend to brew a batch this Sunday once I bottle the ongoing one.

Here is the update. I measured the specific gravity with the hydrometer yesterday, which had been sitting unused so far. It showed a gravity of 1.01, however I can't be sure of that since I could not check the calibration before taking the reading. When I opened the lid, it did smell like alcohol. So I took out a little bit of the brew and tasted it, but I could not tell about the fermentation from the taste. Also, I did not see any yeast rafts floating on top. Attaching a pics here, whatever is on top looks like just froth to me, I don't see any krausen here.

Anyway, I pitched some yeast again, since I did not want to wait for another 3-4 days before pitching yeast again, assuming there was no fermentation. So I did this just for peace of mind, might be totally unnecessary. Sealed the vessel, and again did not see any bubbles through the airlock.

What do you think happened ? Leaky lid ?

 

[spittybug]

That ring of crud on the walls is your Krausen. Proof that it fermented.

 

[AnbyG]

That ring of crud on the walls is your Krausen. Proof that it fermented.

This post made my day.

When I tasted the brew yesterday it did not have any strong bitterness or hoppy aroma, you think I could dry hop it by adding some hop pellets/leaves ?

 

[flars]

This post made my day.

When I tasted the brew yesterday it did not have any strong bitterness or hoppy aroma, you think I could dry hop it by adding some hop pellets/leaves ?

Dry hop if the recipe calls for a dry hop otherwise leave it alone. Check the SG again in a couple of days. You will most likely find it is the same and the beer is done fermenting. If the SG sample in the collection tube is clear you're ready to bottle.

 

[Morrey]

The ring of crud shows you had a nice high krausen meaning you had a very active fermentation going on in there. If your airlock wasn't indicating this you may want to check your seals on the bucket/lid and the airlock and seal itself. Ideally, you want all of this to seal properly even though your beer is probably going to be fine anyway. Don't scrape that crud back into the beer as it is very bitter and astringent.

The flavors of your beer will develop with proper conditioning and carbonation. It is hard to taste young beer in the fermenter and project the outcome w/o lots of experience. Jot down some notes, then compare what you tasted with your aged and carbed beer a month from now. I'd suggest you leave well enough alone and follow your recipe for now.

 

[hagar]

My next brews will be smaller, 3 gallons at max. I want to brew more frequently to speed up the learning process, I am brand new to it, so large batches is not something I want to go for.

Doing small batch brewing really helped me to get a handle on process by providing me several rapid fire brews without great investment. I can't recommend it enough.

Here is the update. I measured the specific gravity with the hydrometer yesterday, which had been sitting unused so far...

The hydrometer is a powerful tool. Learn it. Use it. Love it.

As you've just discovered, it can be difficult to get a firm grasp on what is happening to your beer without a good hydrometer or refractometer, paired with the knowledge of how to use each one properly and at the correct time. A properly functioning air lock will only tell you if air is moving out (or in??).

What do you think happened ? Leaky lid ?

Have you checked the condition of the grommet where the air lock fits into the fermenter lid? I had a similar experience to yours caused by a poor quality grommet installed at a HBS. It had become worn quickly and rolled when I inserted the air lock.

Luckily my trusty hydrometer was there to tell me what the air lock could't.

Cheers! May all your beers be tasty!

 

[AnbyG]

The ring of crud shows you had a nice high krausen meaning you had a very active fermentation going on in there. If your airlock wasn't indicating this you may want to check your seals on the bucket/lid and the airlock and seal itself. Ideally, you want all of this to seal properly even though your beer is probably going to be fine anyway. Don't scrape that crud back into the beer as it is very bitter and astringent.

The flavors of your beer will develop with proper conditioning and carbonation. It is hard to taste young beer in the fermenter and project the outcome w/o lots of experience. Jot down some notes, then compare what you tasted with your aged and carbed beer a month from now. I'd suggest you leave well enough alone and follow your recipe for now.

I wonder why the krausen is in the shape of a ring on the wall. Shouldn't it be floating on top of the beer ? I do recall seeing some videos in which the krausen was on top for top fermenting beers.

Doing small batch brewing really helped me to get a handle on process by providing me several rapid fire brews without great investment. I can't recommend it enough.


The hydrometer is a powerful tool. Learn it. Use it. Love it.

As you've just discovered, it can be difficult to get a firm grasp on what is happening to your beer without a good hydrometer or refractometer, paired with the knowledge of how to use each one properly and at the correct time. A properly functioning air lock will only tell you if air is moving out (or in??).


Have you checked the condition of the grommet where the air lock fits into the fermenter lid? I had a similar experience to yours caused by a poor quality grommet installed at a HBS. It had become worn quickly and rolled when I inserted the air lock.

Luckily my trusty hydrometer was there to tell me what the air lock could't.

Cheers! May all your beers be tasty!

I think it is probably the grommet, although it looks fine and tight. It is the first time I have used this whole setup... When I shove the airlock (filled with starsan water) in the pressure inside the fermenter is a tad higher than the atmosphere, so the water levels are on both sides are not even... However it becomes even later on. This can't happen if it is completely airtight. I think there is a tiny tiny leak that I can't detect.

I think I will pick up a few 3 gallon fermentation buckets to brew 2 gallon batches in them. I think these 5 gallon buckets might be an overkill for the 2 gallon batches.

 

[jjw5015]

I wonder why the krausen is in the shape of a ring on the wall. Shouldn't it be floating on top of the beer ? I do recall seeing some videos in which the krausen was on top for top fermenting beers.



I think it is probably the grommet, although it looks fine and tight. It is the first time I have used this whole setup... When I shove the airlock (filled with starsan water) in the pressure inside the fermenter is a tad higher than the atmosphere, so the water levels are on both sides are not even... However it becomes even later on. This can't happen if it is completely airtight. I think there is a tiny tiny leak that I can't detect.

I think I will pick up a few 3 gallon fermentation buckets to brew 2 gallon batches in them. I think these 5 gallon buckets might be an overkill for the 2 gallon batches.

It was on top, and then it fell out when it was finished fermenting. What you see on the walls is how high up the level rose, then receded. Look up images of beer fermenting in carboys.

 

[AnbyG]

Here is an update on the brew.. I added the priming sugar to my brew as per the recipe on the day before and bottled it. Right now I have 29 bottles in washed glass bottles, one 2L Coke bottle and two 1L tonic water bottle. All the bottles were washed and then washed again with Starsan. Before bottling it I did a specific gravity reading and it did not change at all from the last time I took the measurement. It was steady at 1.010, basically the fermentation was done before re-pitching it with yeast. The beer is a tad cloudy, not super hoppy and a tad on the sweeter side. Is amber ale supposed to be on the sweeter side ? I had a glass while bottling and it tasted like flat traditional rice beer back home. Opened another bottle last night, after 30 hours or so of bottling just to make sure how the taste and aroma changes over time, and there was a small fizz from carbonation on opening the cap. I don't think the taste was radically different than what it was on the bottling day. I will open another bottle in 3-4 days to check how it tastes like. Thank you all for patiently answering my questions, really appreciate it. Another update will follow in 3-4 days, hopefully it tastes less sweet!

 

[jjw5015]

Don't keep opening bottles every 3-4 days. It's going to take 2 weeks for carbonation and you're just wasting them

 

[AnbyG]

Update: The brew turned out to be just fine. A tiny bit hazy, but it tastes fine, although I would have preferred a little more bitterness. I have been drinking it for the last few days. Next goal is to brew an IPA, I might do it tonight if I can make the trek to the local home brew store before it closes. I did not see any change in carbonation levels in bottles opened after 7 days and 14 days after bottling.

Thank you all for making my first brew a success!

 

[Dcpcooks]

You can see the remnants of the krausen clinging to the sides of the bucket. Your beer did go through primary fermentation. The new yeast wasn't needed as you have a 1.010 reading which is consistent with a healthy fermentation. In the future you can look for the ring developing and dropping on the side of the bucket as a sign of fermentation.

Don't over complicate the process, it's just beer. As many have said airlock activity is not an indicator of fermentation. Buckets often have bad seals which let co2 escape. Wild yeast can't crawl so keep your lid on and you'll be ok.

Original gravity and final gravity measurements are indications of fermentation, and the completion of fermentation.