Teckademic
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ops sorry about that. I had too many tabs open when I posted. Wrong place.
Native ESP8266 BrewPi Firmware - WiFi BrewPi, no Arduino needed!
- Thread starter Thorrak
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
I put together a 2nd ferm cooler recently, its a smaller commercial cooler that's a bit underpowered for forced cooling (but great at maintaining). My problem is with a 10 min deadband on a ripping fermentation the temp runs away before the control can take any action, causing huge swings. All this is happening at lager temps in the mid 40s, I can't imagine what would happen at ale temps. I have played with the control constants and with out a shorter dead band it doesn't make a difference. Can I shorten the dead band in fermentrack?
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The cooler minimum off time is set on the controller, not in Fermentrack. I think it can be adjusted, but you run the risk of burning your compressor up.
Also, it seems insane that fermentation is kicking out enough heat to make a marked difference in 10 minutes. Is your temp sensor in a thermowell/otherwise insulated from the fridge air, or is it just strapped to the side of the fermenter?
I use a brew bucket with thermowell. The problem is the lag to cool the chamber, 10 min deadband and maybe 5 min to get the chamber temp back below the ferm temperature, then 5 or so more min to get the chamber down to the set point. That's 20 min of runaway, which is over a degree for the beer. Most of my lagers are to fg in 5 days @ 46f , so there's a lot of activity. I'm not concerned with burning a compressor up (if you even could), don't plan on going less than 5 min dead anyway. How would one get to these settings?
I posted this in the other thread but it might work here too. These are the (alpha) changes I made in BrewPi Remix to help support glycol.
potseeslc
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Hey All! I am a huge fan of Fermentrack and Thorrak was super cool and was interviewed on my podcast about Fermentrack. If you want to get some of the background and his thinking on the project it is a great listen.
https://homebrewingdiy.beer/index.php/2019/10/10/episode-7-fermentrack-part-2-with-jon-beeler/
https://homebrewingdiy.beer/index.php/2019/10/10/episode-7-fermentrack-part-2-with-jon-beeler/
Thorrak - Awesome job with this project, have had one running for a while after having moved from Brewpi. I was wondering, is there any way to recover an iSpindel calibration from a non running installation? Or recover the configuration into a new install? Just did my iSpindel calibration a week ago, and been meaning to make a backup of my whole SD Card. Had a power outage last night and found out my Pi wasn't on the UPS and hosed it.. I can read the card fine and see everything, just cant boot off it, so hoping there's a way to recover my calibration data. Is that stored anywhere accessible or is it in a DB?
If you're running the default install configuration, then the file you'll want to save is the /home/fermentrack/db.sqlite3 file. There's a bunch of apps that can be used to read sqlite3 files - I just randomly searched and found this one (though I've never used it).
You MIGHT also be able to get away with installing Fermentrack, overwriting the db.sqlite3 file on the new install with the one from the old install, and also overwriting the
/home/fermentrack/fermentrack/fermentrack_django/secretsettings.py file with the one from the new install, then rebooting the Pi. No guarantees, but it might work!
It was loads of fun recording this with you - thanks for the opportunity!
potseeslc
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It was my pleasure!!! I can't wait to see some of your future projects!
Thank you again - yes I had a default install. While I was trying to get a new image on my card I grabbed the dB.sqlite3 and saw the coefficients and calibration points. Once I reimaged and reinstalled I tried replacing the two files and rebooted, worked perfectly. Came right back up like nothing had happened.
RedwoodMonkey
Member
Hi Thorrak (and everyone!),
Is anyone else interested in running Fermentrack on macOS?
I've been working on "porting" Fermentrack to run on macOS instead of a pi. My reason is:
* Stability -- my pi seems to crash regularly after a period of time. I'm not sure why. Pi SD cards are also easily corrupted with power failures.
* Development - I can more easily work on Fermentrack on my Mac instead of schlepping things over to a pi. Running Djanjo from Visual Studio Code is just one-step to start debugging!
* Use existing hardware. I know, a Pi is relatively cheap, and I bought one for this project, but I already had an iMac on my network.
* Most the peripherals are now wireless, so we don't seem to need dedicated hardware with a server wired to the fermentation chambers.
I wrote a macOS LaunchDaemon that does the following:
1. Runs an embedded copy of redis
2. Runs circusd
3. Runs Apache via python3 runmodwsgi -- I didn't want to have to install nix, and macOS comes with apache. runmodwsgi is super easy to isolate and run alone.
The daemon keeps an eye on these three and relaunches things in case of crashes.
My mods to Fermentrack are minimal; I wrote a BLE connection script, and made a few minor tweaks.
My next step is to create a one-step installer for all this stuff. I'm planning on having a simple Mac app that allows anyone to install Fermentrack on it and setup the daemon. Screen shot attached of what I'm working on.
I'll push the source to GitHub at some point...but I'm curious if anyone else would find this stuff useful. It would also be nice to pushback my changes to the main Fermentrack repo at some point.
corbin
Is anyone else interested in running Fermentrack on macOS?
I've been working on "porting" Fermentrack to run on macOS instead of a pi. My reason is:
* Stability -- my pi seems to crash regularly after a period of time. I'm not sure why. Pi SD cards are also easily corrupted with power failures.
* Development - I can more easily work on Fermentrack on my Mac instead of schlepping things over to a pi. Running Djanjo from Visual Studio Code is just one-step to start debugging!
* Use existing hardware. I know, a Pi is relatively cheap, and I bought one for this project, but I already had an iMac on my network.
* Most the peripherals are now wireless, so we don't seem to need dedicated hardware with a server wired to the fermentation chambers.
I wrote a macOS LaunchDaemon that does the following:
1. Runs an embedded copy of redis
2. Runs circusd
3. Runs Apache via python3 runmodwsgi -- I didn't want to have to install nix, and macOS comes with apache. runmodwsgi is super easy to isolate and run alone.
The daemon keeps an eye on these three and relaunches things in case of crashes.
My mods to Fermentrack are minimal; I wrote a BLE connection script, and made a few minor tweaks.
My next step is to create a one-step installer for all this stuff. I'm planning on having a simple Mac app that allows anyone to install Fermentrack on it and setup the daemon. Screen shot attached of what I'm working on.
I'll push the source to GitHub at some point...but I'm curious if anyone else would find this stuff useful. It would also be nice to pushback my changes to the main Fermentrack repo at some point.
corbin
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Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
is your RPI powered separately from the other components?
This is awesome!
How did you get Bluetooth working? While I do all my development on a Mac, Bluetooth basically had to be tested in “production” due to the way the daemon works.
RedwoodMonkey
Member
Here's the source on my fork!
https://github.com/corbinstreehouse/fermentrack/blob/master/gravity/tilt/tilt_monitor_macos.py
All I did was re-write tilt_monitor_aio.py to use CoreBluetooth via PyObjc; it was pretty easy (granted, I worked at Apple for many years on AppKit/UIKit). I didn't want to duplicate code, so I pushed common code to tilt_monitor_utils.py.
Eventually I'll look at my changes, clean things up, and make a pull request for the main repo.
I'm thinking I'll push the macOS "Fermentrack Manager" to a separate repository to keep things clean. I'll let you all know when I get it going well enough to have some other people start using it.
-Corbin
RedwoodMonkey
Member
It is....right now the pi has nothing else plugged into it, and is just connecting to my Tilt and graphing the fermentation process. I had put Raspian buster on it...and I'm wondering if that is part of the problem.
Probably 2 really simple questions that either everybody knows without asking, or has been covered, but I didn't find it.
On a scale of 1-10, what's the point of the PCB? I see how it would make things neater, but stuffed into a box, I don't see $15 worth of value in neatness for myself. I get thats for 4 PCB's, but I probably will only ever need 1 and even if I make another someday, it's still $15 admission.
This picture posted previously looks so easy to an electronics beginner and has no PCB. Other than neatness, is there any benefit to use the PCB instead of this?
And finally, speaking of neatness and cheapskatedness, why does everybody use outlets for these things? Why not cut the plugs off the freezer and heater cords, run the wires into the control box through a strain relief, and switch them directly? It's not like I will ever need my freezer to appear stock, and if you ever want it to be just a freezer can't you do that via single sensor fridge temp mode set below freezing? Even assuming a parts failure it would be a 2 minute job to disconnect the wires and re-attach the plugs, or $2 for a proper screw connection replacement plug. I understand outlets for commercial controllers, average Joes don't want to cut and wire stuff for products they pay for. But for a DIYer willing to build their own controller for a dedicated ferment chamber, it seems silly to add the outlets at all. At a quick glance wouldn't it just be a matter of wire nutting power cord, freezer cord, and heater cord neutrals all together, their grounds all together, and freezer and heater hots individually to the red wires coming from the relay? Is there a reason not to, or is it commonly done and just not shown on diagrams? It seems easier, cheaper (admitedly only $2), and neater so there must be a reason against it.
Thanks to everybody for this awesome project and thread!
On a scale of 1-10, what's the point of the PCB? I see how it would make things neater, but stuffed into a box, I don't see $15 worth of value in neatness for myself. I get thats for 4 PCB's, but I probably will only ever need 1 and even if I make another someday, it's still $15 admission.
This picture posted previously looks so easy to an electronics beginner and has no PCB. Other than neatness, is there any benefit to use the PCB instead of this?
And finally, speaking of neatness and cheapskatedness, why does everybody use outlets for these things? Why not cut the plugs off the freezer and heater cords, run the wires into the control box through a strain relief, and switch them directly? It's not like I will ever need my freezer to appear stock, and if you ever want it to be just a freezer can't you do that via single sensor fridge temp mode set below freezing? Even assuming a parts failure it would be a 2 minute job to disconnect the wires and re-attach the plugs, or $2 for a proper screw connection replacement plug. I understand outlets for commercial controllers, average Joes don't want to cut and wire stuff for products they pay for. But for a DIYer willing to build their own controller for a dedicated ferment chamber, it seems silly to add the outlets at all. At a quick glance wouldn't it just be a matter of wire nutting power cord, freezer cord, and heater cord neutrals all together, their grounds all together, and freezer and heater hots individually to the red wires coming from the relay? Is there a reason not to, or is it commonly done and just not shown on diagrams? It seems easier, cheaper (admitedly only $2), and neater so there must be a reason against it.
Thanks to everybody for this awesome project and thread!
Probably 2 really simple questions that either everybody knows without asking, or has been covered, but I didn't find it.
On a scale of 1-10, what's the point of the PCB? I see how it would make things neater, but stuffed into a box, I don't see $15 worth of value in neatness for myself. I get thats for 4 PCB's, but I probably will only ever need 1 and even if I make another someday, it's still $15 admission.
This picture posted previously looks so easy to an electronics beginner and has no PCB. Other than neatness, is there any benefit to use the PCB instead of this?
And finally, speaking of neatness and cheapskatedness, why does everybody use outlets for these things? Why not cut the plugs off the freezer and heater cords, run the wires into the control box through a strain relief, and switch them directly? It's not like I will ever need my freezer to appear stock, and if you ever want it to be just a freezer can't you do that via single sensor fridge temp mode set below freezing? Even assuming a parts failure it would be a 2 minute job to disconnect the wires and re-attach the plugs, or $2 for a proper screw connection replacement plug. I understand outlets for commercial controllers, average Joes don't want to cut and wire stuff for products they pay for. But for a DIYer willing to build their own controller for a dedicated ferment chamber, it seems silly to add the outlets at all. At a quick glance wouldn't it just be a matter of wire nutting power cord, freezer cord, and heater cord neutrals all together, their grounds all together, and freezer and heater hots individually to the red wires coming from the relay? Is there a reason not to, or is it commonly done and just not shown on diagrams? It seems easier, cheaper (admitedly only $2), and neater so there must be a reason against it.
Thanks to everybody for this awesome project and thread!
It all comes down to how you want your temperature controller to work/what features you are interested in. If all you want is the most basic functionality, then you can probably get away with wiring things as you show sketched out. The second you add an LCD to the mix, you will need level shifters which complicates the wiring and is where a PCB starts to help (but could theoretically still be done with DuPont cables). There is no reason you have to get one if you don’t want to, though.
The same can generally be said for using an outlet vs. hardwiring your fridge/heater into the relay - outlets cost $2-ish and add flexibility, but can absolutely be skipped. Just be careful when sizing your cables as undersized cables can be a fire hazard (hence the reason people recommend not using extension cables with high-load devices like refrigerators).
If I had to choose between an outlet and an LCD, I would choose the outlet. If I had to choose between an outlet and a PCB, I would choose the outlet. Of course, I would choose all three - but that’s one of the great things about this project: you can adapt it to fit your specific situation and your specific goals.
The ESP8266 runs internally on 3v3 (3.3 volts) so you would want to power everything from that terminal and change the resistor accordingly (I think 2.2k Ohm?). The relay is meant to be powered by 5V but I believe 3V3 will pull it down - you'd have to check. That is one of the benefits of the circuit board - it handles the voltage shifting. However, to your point, you could hardwire everything. For me the ability to bypass a rats-nest and be able to troubleshoot effectively when needed far outweighs any small cost for a board. I mean really, it costs less than a beer.
Yes, you also can hack your fridge. Many people do. The outlets are depicted because that's the lowest common denominator.
Yes, you also can hack your fridge. Many people do. The outlets are depicted because that's the lowest common denominator.
The use of a PCB is optional, so I guess that can be considered a 0 on a scale of 1-10.
For me personally, I give it a 10/10, but I’m OCD when it comes to neatness, order, and trying to harness electricity. I will say this, the cost of the PCB is more than just the PCB itself. There are some surface mount ( in my case) items needed to be soldered on, so the price is higher. Also, if you want to include a display screen for your instance, that will increase the importance to get a PCB.
As far as your questions about wiring, that is not my forte, and I can’t help ya.
I will say this...when having to go into your instance to repair or check connections, I think it would be a heck of a lot easier to simply unplug your fridge, heater, and main and run diagnostics than it would be with the wiring you’re asking about.
Speaking of the surface mount components, I realized yesterday I may have inadvertently figure out a way to simplify the wiring of everything while attempting to add a new feature to the firmware. I’ve got a PCB en route from pcbs.io to test, but watch this space here in about 2 months or so.
Should the fact I don't know what this means worry me? I know the esp8266 is 3.3v, if you are talking about triggering the relays, see below. Or do you mean that resistors are needed to power the sensors?
The relays I'm using (link below) have been reported to work with 1.5-3.5v in reviews and questions.
Honestly I just don't feel like waiting for a PCB, $15 is a drop in the bucket for how much I've spent on HB gear, I get that. But amazon has 1 day shipping for the parts I need, and I can start tomorrow. Presumably if I have troubles and don't fry anything, I can always order the PCB then. Likewise if I decide I have to have a screen and the logic controller seems too messy to add.
I'm planning to go without a screen. I imagine it is most helpful during setup and testing, but can't imagine I'd ever look at it after that. My most likely setup will be with the controller, fermentrack computer, and monitor all sitting on top of the freezer. After everything is working I can just look at the monitor.
These are the parts I'm planning on, feedback would be nice. I'm planning to build two.
ESP8266:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W7LWX59
2 pcs 5V 2 Channel DC 5V Relay Module:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079FGPC9Y
Temp sensors:
Aideepen 5PCS DS18B20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RJMVY54/
How do I tell if these are the dreaded parasitic only I've read about?
The terminal blocks and 4.7k resistor are hard to go wrong on so I left them out. Same with outlet.
For power to the ESP8266 I'm planning to use the guts from an old USB wall wart charger? The listing says it has voltage regulators, if I'm reading correctly so 5v in is fine? any benefit to attach to the pins (presumably 5v and G?) vs. USB port? I don't see amperage listed, will an old 750ma suffice? 1 amp?
Thanks everyone, and sorry for coming in here with a short and shoddy proposal when y'all are building beautiful controllers, there goes the neighborhood!
I got you on the wire sizing, I built my 50A brewery so I know all about that! Speaking of, I realize I also built my controllers without all the plugs and outlets that people seem to use, and haven't regretted it. It's not like I ever need to plug those elements in anywhere else, and if I did it would be for a big enough reason to warrant some disassembly. The elements themselves are triclamped for easy removal from the vessel, but they are hardwired to the controller. 2x 30amp outlets and 2x 30 amp plugs just adds $, adds time, and takes up real estate.The same can generally be said for using an outlet vs. hardwiring your fridge/heater into the relay - outlets cost $2-ish and add flexibility, but can absolutely be skipped. Just be careful when sizing your cables as undersized cables can be a fire hazard (hence the reason people recommend not using extension cables with high-load devices like refrigerators).
If I had to choose between an outlet and an LCD, I would choose the outlet. If I had to choose between an outlet and a PCB, I would choose the outlet. Of course, I would choose all three - but that’s one of the great things about this project: you can adapt it to fit your specific situation and your specific goals.
I picture a similar use case here. I'm not just building a controller for my freezer, I might as well be building a part of the freezer. I don't ever want the freezer to not have awesome controls. And if I want the controller somewhere else? That's why I'm building a spare
I'll make you guys a promise. If I hardwire everything and have some PITA to troubleshoot failure, I'll redo it right and clean and neat... and probably never have to open it up again!
Lalo_uy
Well-Known Member
Probably 2 really simple questions that either everybody knows without asking, or has been covered, but I didn't find it.
On a scale of 1-10, what's the point of the PCB? I see how it would make things neater, but stuffed into a box, I don't see $15 worth of value in neatness for myself. I get thats for 4 PCB's, but I probably will only ever need 1 and even if I make another someday, it's still $15 admission.
This picture posted previously looks so easy to an electronics beginner and has no PCB. Other than neatness, is there any benefit to use the PCB instead of this?
And finally, speaking of neatness and cheapskatedness, why does everybody use outlets for these things? Why not cut the plugs off the freezer and heater cords, run the wires into the control box through a strain relief, and switch them directly? It's not like I will ever need my freezer to appear stock, and if you ever want it to be just a freezer can't you do that via single sensor fridge temp mode set below freezing? Even assuming a parts failure it would be a 2 minute job to disconnect the wires and re-attach the plugs, or $2 for a proper screw connection replacement plug. I understand outlets for commercial controllers, average Joes don't want to cut and wire stuff for products they pay for. But for a DIYer willing to build their own controller for a dedicated ferment chamber, it seems silly to add the outlets at all. At a quick glance wouldn't it just be a matter of wire nutting power cord, freezer cord, and heater cord neutrals all together, their grounds all together, and freezer and heater hots individually to the red wires coming from the relay? Is there a reason not to, or is it commonly done and just not shown on diagrams? It seems easier, cheaper (admitedly only $2), and neater so there must be a reason against it.
Thanks to everybody for this awesome project and thread!
I prefer powering DS18B20 with 5V and tie the pullup to 3.3V
like this:
It is safe to actuate the relay from ESP since there is an optocupler led +R from 5V to the ESP pin, the voltage never goes above 3.5.
fwiw, the pullup (to VCC) is on the anode of the optocoupler led, the signal is on the cathode (hence the low-active control).
If you want to make the setup bulletproof, remove the VCC-JVCC jumper and put 5V and GND on the appropriate pins to power the coils from 5V and relieve the 3.3V regulator from having to deal with the relays...
Cheers!
If you want to make the setup bulletproof, remove the VCC-JVCC jumper and put 5V and GND on the appropriate pins to power the coils from 5V and relieve the 3.3V regulator from having to deal with the relays...
Cheers!
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
I think with your needs I would go with an STC1000+I got you on the wire sizing, I built my 50A brewery so I know all about that! Speaking of, I realize I also built my controllers without all the plugs and outlets that people seem to use, and haven't regretted it. It's not like I ever need to plug those elements in anywhere else, and if I did it would be for a big enough reason to warrant some disassembly. The elements themselves are triclamped for easy removal from the vessel, but they are hardwired to the controller. 2x 30amp outlets and 2x 30 amp plugs just adds $, adds time, and takes up real estate.
I picture a similar use case here. I'm not just building a controller for my freezer, I might as well be building a part of the freezer. I don't ever want the freezer to not have awesome controls. And if I want the controller somewhere else? That's why I'm building a spare
I'll make you guys a promise. If I hardwire everything and have some PITA to troubleshoot failure, I'll redo it right and clean and neat... and probably never have to open it up again!
As someone who previously had an STC1000+, even with everything hard-wired, without an LCD, I’d still go BrewPi.
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
Is the OP going to use his freezer to ferment in? From his last post, I got the feeling he was just using it for a serving vessel.As someone who previously had an STC1000+, even with everything hard-wired, without an LCD, I’d still go BrewPi.
As someone who previously had an STC1000+ for his serving keezer, I’d still go with BrewPi.
Is your beer really at its best if it isn’t served at exactly 33.2F?
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
What are you serving, the Silver Bullet? [Yeah, I assume your point was about the accuracy of serving temperature, but your choice of 33.2°F is pretty far from what I'd ever serve any beer.]
If only my beer was that good. The colder it is, the less likely you are to note the distinct lack of hop character.
I dry hopped it twice! With cryo hops! What the hell!!
lol!
I hadn't seen that thread, but I read through it a bit and get to:
HA!
I had an old Johnston Controls (maybe, don't remember the brand, something old school) that worked fine for what it was, but it finally shat the bed. I may end up using it's shell for this project, which is kinda funny to me. But if it were still working honestly I would just keep using it, as simple as it was.
So anyway, yes this is a fermentation freezer. I know I described a simple setup, but I actually want the modern features. For fun, for future proofing, for learning, and for the 2nd controller which will occasionally be out in the garage. Maybe a third for the in progress keezer, but I'm not there yet, and that is a different issues, it's a commercial fridge not actually a keezer so may work fine with it's own thermostat. I also definitely want networking, multi-chamber and tilt / ispindel support. I have a couple pi B+ and arduino uno's laying around so I could have just gone legacy, but I'd lose out on networking, tilt and education. And I've got some other ideas for future projects using the ESP8266. So for the networking and experience I want something ESP8266 based.
I just kinda ended up here. It looks to me that all the popular ESP8266 projects use a more or less interchangeable basic design and could be flashed back and forth at will. But on the front end I've decided on fermentrack, so I came here because of the Thorrak commonality.
I see the change, but can you explain why it is better? I understand electricity like I understand plumbing and baking, so lots of things obvious to electronic hobbyists go right over my head.
Totally lost me, I don't know pullup, VCC or JVCC. I'm googling now, but a simple explanation would be helpful. It sounds like you're saying it's a way to trigger the coils with 5v vs. 3.3v as originally shown, which may help longevity by not burning out the regulator. Which sounds good.
EDIT: I think I get it now. Pulling the jumper separates the relays into basically 3 parts: the signal from the board which basically just fires an LED which would still be 3.3 V, the low voltage side of the relays which is 5V, and the high voltage side of the relays would all be separated. So basically instead of powering and triggering the relays from the ESP, I would pull 5V from the power supply before it goes into the ESP. And if I understood my googling this would require NOT grounding from ESP to the relay board as shown via the euro connector, but rather ground the relays to the ground from the 5V supply?
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Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
I still use my STC1000+ for mostly fermenting yogurt in a crockpot. I have versions of all of the BrewPi family. I normally recommend Fermentract as the first choice but you had lowcost listed as a priority and that was the main reason I suggested the STC1000+.
How much are the STC1000s these days?
To clarify one point, there’s two separate projects here, both of which can be used independently. There is the ESP8266 port of the BrewPi firmware, which supports all the BrewPi features (except the rotary encoder) and adds WiFi connections back to the Pi. Then there is Fermentrack, which is a BrewPi-compatible web interface. You can use ESP8266-based controllers with the original BrewPi web interface (or @LBussy ‘s excellent update for it), and you can use Arduino-based controllers with Fermentrack.
Tilt and iSpindel support are built into the web interface so the feature you would miss by going the Arduino route would be WiFi on the controller. It’s all up to you as far as which features you want.
Exactly on the nose with your description of what pulling the jumper does. I can’t speak to how you would need to ground the relay however, as all my builds skip all this and drive the relay off the 3v3. I haven’t had any real issues with this that I know of.
stbernts
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I would be more than happy to use it, since I already have a Mac in my Brewery
Nice getting it to work, while it sits powered on 
georgedamonkey
Member
So, I tried getting all this working a few months ago, and I gave up. Hitting this again, and I’m mostly there. I have a BrewPi+ESP8266 setup, along with an iSpindel. I’ve got both configured and working except for one piece. The iSpindel’s communication with the controller.
I’ve got screenshots below, and you can see that both fermentrack and the controller both see the temperature reading of the iSpindel. The problem comes in with setting that iSpindel as the beer sensor. If I go in to manage the controller, the iSpindel doesn’t show up at all as an option to even pick it as that sensor.
Any ideas on what I can try? Like I said, it’s been months since I tried initially setting this up. The iSpindel I flashed and started over. But, the firmware on the controller is older. I didn’t want to flash that and start over if I didn’t have to.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
I’ve got screenshots below, and you can see that both fermentrack and the controller both see the temperature reading of the iSpindel. The problem comes in with setting that iSpindel as the beer sensor. If I go in to manage the controller, the iSpindel doesn’t show up at all as an option to even pick it as that sensor.
Any ideas on what I can try? Like I said, it’s been months since I tried initially setting this up. The iSpindel I flashed and started over. But, the firmware on the controller is older. I didn’t want to flash that and start over if I didn’t have to.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
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