Mypin TA 4 PID

[Majd]

Hello,
I recently wanted to move a step forward to automating my brew rig. First I wanted to buy and make a temperature controller, I wanted to build a digital thermometer for my MASH tun and HLT, I also need one for my fermentation fridge. So I got from Amazon MYPIN TA 4. I wanted to start with only one to test my ability to make those gizmos work. This PID came with little to no instruction, China made it China sent it and I have to put it together .

After long search on line I feel that I have assembled and wired it correctly "I feel so". However, it still does not work properly. It does measure temperature, and it does communicate to the Solid State Relay (SSR) and the SSR turn on and off and PID click on and off, but it read the wrong temperature value. It is off about 10 degrees F from the real temperature measured on a glass thermometer. I don't know if this is a wiring mistake, set up mistake or calibration issue, I was un able to calibrate it yet because I do not know how to calibrate it. I got to run auto tune, I dipped it (the probe) in ice water but could not tell the PID "that should be 32F.
enclosed are few pictures that "I think" will help you good guys to see what I have and figure out what is wrong here, or maybe if some one know how to calibrate those PIDs please reply to this.

Thanks

 

[acidrain]

Regardless of who made it, and who assembled it, the schematics are on it.
Why do you have a jumper between #9 & #7?
What temp probe are you using, and do you have the temp probe type entered correctly?
You say it came with no instructions? I've purchased many of these, and they work fine, and they always come with instructions. Maybe in poorly translated engrish, but understandable.
Instructions are available on-line. Here's one... http://www.sanyoutech.com/UploadProductPic/200991715182749860.pdf

 

[Majd]

Have you used Mypin Ta4 and other series such as TA4, 6' 7 etc. also have you used RTD Vs K type? I'm wondering if you can recommend a better one for fridge / freezer temperature control. Which PID will be better to allow a fridge to run at a set point +_ specific number (eg: 65+_3F) and will have anti-short cycle to allow fridge compressor to rest.

Also, what would be your recommendation for a MASH tun and HLT controller?

Thanks


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[IPA-Hole]

The jumper should be across 9 and 8 and only for a RTD. I have a TA4 and 6; no jumper used for thermocouple; jumper for 2 or 3 wire RTD (if memory serves me - I'm over 50 so my memory is sketchy at best). Once wired correctly you can adjust (compensate) the temp + or - by pressing SET for 5 seconds then press SET again 3 or 4 times (don't remember exactly) till you see something like PYF - there you can adjust probe temp up or down. Hope that helps....

 

[Majd]

You are right about that I was able finally to wire it correctly and remover the jumper. I know now how to adjust the probe to read right. I was wondering if you can recommend one or the other to use for each of MASH tun, HLT and fridge?


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[IPA-Hole]

RTD's are faster and more accurate - cost more too (go figure). TC's are cheap but are fine for fridge. I would use a RTD for Mash and HLT.

NOW get brewing son!

 

[rgauthier20420]

You are right about that I was able finally to wire it correctly and remover the jumper. I know now how to adjust the probe to read right. I was wondering if you can recommend one or the other to use for each of MASH tun, HLT and fridge?


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I use the Mypin for my Mash and RIMS, but use an STC-1000 for my ferm chamber. The STC-1000 is cheaper and doesn't require additional thermocouple/rtd parts.

 

[Majd]

I use the Mypin for my Mash and RIMS, but use an STC-1000 for my ferm chamber. The STC-1000 is cheaper and doesn't require additional thermocouple/rtd parts.

But does the STC-1000 have the anti-short cycle setting that is vital to keep your fridge working and not kill the compressor?

 

[rgauthier20420]

But does the STC-1000 have the anti-short cycle setting that is vital to keep your fridge working and not kill the compressor?

The STC does have a +/- setting that will delay the compressor by whatever that number is from the set temperature yes. Other than, not sure what your looking at.

 

[Majd]

The STC does have a +/- setting that will delay the compressor by whatever that number is from the set temperature yes. Other than, not sure what your looking at.

That is prety much it. I looked it up at Amazon, and it seem like it comes with a relay or SSR built in? Is that right? so I do not need to buy a relay or SSR with it?

Thanks

 

[rgauthier20420]

That is prety much it. I looked it up at Amazon, and it seem like it comes with a relay or SSR built in? Is that right? so I do not need to buy a relay or SSR with it?

Thanks

No. All you need is the STC, a box to put it in, an outlet, and some wire and you'll be set. Check out the wiring an STC thread in the DIY section for all the details you'll need.

 

[Saboral]

Make sure you get the one with the relay. I didn't realize when I bought my first PID that it was relay or SSR. I bought two 5A SSR relays from Auber, but wish I had just got relay PIDs to start with. I would only need an SSR if I switched to electric.

 

[Majd]

I use the Mypin for my Mash and RIMS, but use an STC-1000 for my ferm chamber. The STC-1000 is cheaper and doesn't require additional thermocouple/rtd parts.

rgauthier20420;
I'm planning to use this PID for my HLT and a similar one for my MASH/HRMS pump. While I still need to figure out the connections, the propane solenoids and stuff. I noticed that the (stock probe) probe that comes with those PIDs is not waterproof, they rust and read temperature wrong in water. What did you do, did you use a temperature well or got a waterproof probe? any advice?

Thanks

 

[Brumateur]

you can order an watertight probe on eBay or use a silicone to waterproof probe you have.