My wife wants me to go all electric.

[Geneticjim]

She hates propane. I brew in my garage with the door open and a good fan for circulating air. My electrical box is in my garage with plenty on blank spaces. I have a 15.5 keg I use for a HTL. I have a spare 15.5 keg I don't use and I also have a 12.5 gal boil kettle and a 10gal water cooler for a Mash run. I was thinking about buying a new kettle. I'm not too sure. I just don't know where to start. How long will it take to boil 10 gallons if I use 240? Is it near the time of propane?

 

[gl_az]

I use the all SS ripple elements from Brew Hardware in an all electric setup. I have one in my HLT w/ HERMS and one in my MT. I fly sparge and tend to run off a little slow. I hit the heat on the BK as soon as the element is covered by about an inch or two of wort. I am usually boiling within just a few minutes of finishing my sparge.

Using this spreadsheet, on my 10 gallon system, assuming runnings are at 160F and 13 gallons of runnings, time to heat is calculated at 19 minutes.

 

[schematix]

The speed of heating with electric is easily calculated based on the mass of water and the wattage of the element.

The performance of my 5500W elements compares well to the speed of the blichmann burners i had.

 

[Powercat]

My wife also was afraid of propane especially after I melted the gas line leading to the regulator and a secondary fire. I was able to turn the valve off before it caused serious damage. I went to ebiab and and enjoy the simplicity and great beer. If I was starting over I would look at the 220 volt induction system. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=598405

 

[Geneticjim]

I appreciate the info so far. Is there a minimum distance the heating coils need to be installed off the bottom of a kettle?

 

[Quaker]

I appreciate the info so far. Is there a minimum distance the heating coils need to be installed off the bottom of a kettle?

I have my element just high enough up for the nut to be on the kettle surface. There's maybe 1/2-3/4" between the element and the bottom of the inside of the kettle. However, I recently considered putting a bazooka screen in, but I'm unable due to no clearance for it with the element bisecting the kettle. So that may be a consideration for you, but it also could have been avoided by changing the location of my element relative to my outlet valve (more inline than crossing 90 degrees to it). On the other hand, the higher your element is, that will limit the depth of an immersion chiller.

 

[Geneticjim]

I have my element just high enough up for the nut to be on the kettle surface. There's maybe 1/2-3/4" between the element and the bottom of the inside of the kettle. However, I recently considered putting a bazooka screen in, but I'm unable due to no clearance for it with the element bisecting the kettle. So that may be a consideration for you, but it also could have been avoided by changing the location of my element relative to my outlet valve (more inline than crossing 90 degrees to it). On the other hand, the higher your element is, that will limit the depth of an immersion chiller.

Oh OK. I use a plate chiller so NP issues there. I also have been looking at controls. I am not looking for a controller that also controls pumps. A simple one that I can use on my HLT to hold a certain temp. Then plugs into my boil kettle to boil the wort. I'm not too comfy with building my own. Any suggestions? It only needs to control one heating element at once.. 5500w 240v

 

[Geneticjim]

I use the all SS ripple elements from Brew Hardware in an all electric setup. I have one in my HLT w/ HERMS and one in my MT. I fly sparge and tend to run off a little slow. I hit the heat on the BK as soon as the element is covered by about an inch or two of wort. I am usually boiling within just a few minutes of finishing my sparge.

Using this spreadsheet, on my 10 gallon system, assuming runnings are at 160F and 13 gallons of runnings, time to heat is calculated at 19 minutes.

Awesome spreadsheet! Thanks!!!

 

[Singletrack]

Going electric is one good solution. An inexpensive alternative is to buy an extra fire extinguisher and CO detector.

 

[gl_az]

I appreciate the info so far. Is there a minimum distance the heating coils need to be installed off the bottom of a kettle?

I think it depends on your kettle and mounting method. Again, I used Brew Hardware's TC solder flange and their element enclosure (which IMHO is one of the best bits of commercially available hardware out there). I wanted all of my holes and hardware to clear the top of the kettles 'bell' or whatever you call it. It is where the vertical sidewall begins its curve/weld/bend towards the bottom. That said, I believe the bottom of my element sits maybe one or one and a half inches above the bottom.

 

[gl_az]

Oh OK. I use a plate chiller so NP issues there. I also have been looking at controls. I am not looking for a controller that also controls pumps. A simple one that I can use on my HLT to hold a certain temp. Then plugs into my boil kettle to boil the wort. I'm not too comfy with building my own. Any suggestions? It only needs to control one heating element at once.. 5500w 240v

This is a simple DIY controller that I really like http://stilldragon.com/index.php/diy-small-controller.html.

It's not prebuilt but buying the equivalent thing already assembled from most places would add $200, for example http://www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/Electric-Kettle-Controller-272p3084.htm

There may be other options out there as it has been a while since I have done my research so maybe someone else has a link for something fully assembled that is more recent and cheaper.

 

[augiedoggy]

Oh OK. I use a plate chiller so NP issues there. I also have been looking at controls. I am not looking for a controller that also controls pumps. A simple one that I can use on my HLT to hold a certain temp. Then plugs into my boil kettle to boil the wort. I'm not too comfy with building my own. Any suggestions? It only needs to control one heating element at once.. 5500w 240v

premade ones for just a single element start out at around 250 bucks and go as high as $600 from what ive seen.... (The manual temp control pot knob controllers such as above can be built for less) High gravity is one of the more expensive builders compared to others out there from what ive found.

If you do have a handy friend that can read schematics he can assemble and wire one up in a couple of hours with about $75-100 in hardware. A simple one element controller is really pretty easy to wire up.
Its easy to get talked into other stuff though like pump control, rims or herms and other things that can make your brewing go more smoothly , not that you need them though.
since you already have a 240v line in your garage and an onboard supportive wife your ahead of most folks here..

You can get something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/240v-5500w-...265823?hash=item2edd3d1e5f:g:nBQAAOSwk5FU0oCj

or build it for about $ 150-200

 

[Geneticjim]

premade ones for just a single element start out at around 250 bucks and go as high as $600 from what ive seen.... (The manual temp control pot knob controllers such as above can be built for less) High gravity is one of the more expensive builders compared to others out there from what ive found.

If you do have a handy friend that can read schematics he can assemble and wire one up in a couple of hours with about $75-100 in hardware. A simple one element controller is really pretty easy to wire up.
Its easy to get talked into other stuff though like pump control, rims or herms and other things that can make your brewing go more smoothly , not that you need them though.
since you already have a 240v line in your garage and an onboard supportive wife your ahead of most folks here..

You can get something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/240v-5500w-...265823?hash=item2edd3d1e5f:g:nBQAAOSwk5FU0oCj

or build it for about $ 150-200

Thanks for the info.. now I have to find plans. If I have good instructions I'm pretty handy... I just can't build one out of a pile of parts without a diagram or instructions...

 

[dyqik]

My simple 5500W kettle conversion and controller build is in a couple of posts on this thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=572388

I took a StillDragon kit and added a contactor (for positive power on/off) and a power meter (for visual feedback of the power setting). That's all I need on the kettle for heating strike and sparge water and for boiling.

I can take more photos of the inside of the controller etc. if you want them, but there's nothing there that isn't easily adapted from other controller build threads.

 

[millsbrew]

Going electric is one good solution. An inexpensive alternative is to buy an extra fire extinguisher and CO detector.

This. My wife wanted me to go electric too because I was bitching all the time about my brew days being weather dependent. So I made the jump. It's not cheap at all, though I needed all new kettles. I now have a really nice basement brewery/bar, but check out prices before you make the move.

 

[schematix]

Good point. A decked out basement brewery could easily cost you >$5k.

 

[jwelch1103]

Dear Geneticjim,
Respectfully tendered:

Never, EVER, EVER, do something simply because your wife wants you to.

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot? Do you intend to check your testicles at the door the rest of your life?

Do your research, choose your method, make your own decision.

FWIW, I brew with direct electric heating. It's the only way to fly in my opinion. A bit more up front (OK significantly more), but once set up i believe it can not be beat except perhaps by other electric means such as induction.

But really, do you think your wife is posting among other women of "what else should I do because my husband "hates" something I do"???????????

Snap-Face would ridicule her, to say the least don't you believe, for thinking like that.

 

[Geneticjim]

Dear Geneticjim,
Respectfully tendered:

Never, EVER, EVER, do something simply because your wife wants you to.

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot? Do you intend to check your testicles at the door the rest of your life?

Do your research, choose your method, make your own decision.

FWIW, I brew with direct electric heating. It's the only way to fly in my opinion. A bit more up front (OK significantly more), but once set up i believe it can not be beat except perhaps by other electric means such as induction.

But really, do you think your wife is posting among other women of "what else should I do because my husband "hates" something I do"???????????

Snap-Face would ridicule her, to say the least don't you believe, for thinking like that.

Lol. Ummm yeah... I don't have an issue with going electric. If it make my wife feel safer I'm all for it. It doesn't bother me to help her feel safer...

 

[Pappers_]

Dear Geneticjim,
Respectfully tendered:

Never, EVER, EVER, do something simply because your wife wants you to.

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot? Do you intend to check your testicles at the door the rest of your life?

Do your research, choose your method, make your own decision.

FWIW, I brew with direct electric heating. It's the only way to fly in my opinion. A bit more up front (OK significantly more), but once set up i believe it can not be beat except perhaps by other electric means such as induction.

But really, do you think your wife is posting among other women of "what else should I do because my husband "hates" something I do"???????????

Snap-Face would ridicule her, to say the least don't you believe, for thinking like that.

Yes its a horrible idea to listen to someone whom you love and who loves you

 

[Homercidal]

Dear Geneticjim,
Respectfully tendered:

Never, EVER, EVER, do something simply because your wife wants you to.

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot? Do you intend to check your testicles at the door the rest of your life?

Do your research, choose your method, make your own decision.

FWIW, I brew with direct electric heating. It's the only way to fly in my opinion. A bit more up front (OK significantly more), but once set up i believe it can not be beat except perhaps by other electric means such as induction.

But really, do you think your wife is posting among other women of "what else should I do because my husband "hates" something I do"???????????

Snap-Face would ridicule her, to say the least don't you believe, for thinking like that.

Wow! LOL! Ok. Some really good advice here. It's almost like jwelch knows your marital relationship even better than you do!

Anyway, I'd jump on that chance. Even a very simple electric system can have advantages over propane IMO. Cheaper, Quieter, faster... Depends on a few things, but it makes going to a controlled system easier later if you decide to do that.