My take on an Ale recipe

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Sematary

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So, I found this recipe online and because, well, I can't always find the exact ingredients called for at the closes place that has beer brewing supplies, I often end up tweaking the recipe as is the case here. They (in this case) didn't have the specific ale yeast called for or the specific hop, I had to change those 2 things and I also wanted to boost the alcohol level some so instead of 1 lb. of amber dme I am using 3 lbs of Briess Pilsen light and I changed one other thing as well - instead of one ounce of black barley for the steep I used 2 oz. I also realized (half an hour left in the boil) that I did not have nearly enough LME. I was "supposed" to have 6.6 lbs and I had 3.8 so I had to do something quick. As I stated, the place where I get my supplies is half an hour away so going there wasn't an option. I shot over to Dollar General which is 100 yards away and got some Light corn syrup (it's all I could get unfortunately) I added 3.6 lbs (2 pints). The original recipe called for 7.1 alcohol by volume. So who KNOWS how this Frankenale is going to turn out but here's the recipe.

3.6 lbs corn syrup (2 pints)
3.8 lbs CBW Pilsen Light LME
3.0 lbs Breiss Pilsen Light DME
2 oz. Crisp black roasted barley
1 oz Centennial (7.7 AA hop) added at beginning of first boil - 50 minutes
1 oz SAAZ (3.2 AA hop) added at end of boil prior to cooling
1 package Nottingham Ale Yeast (pre tossed in 4 oz. water at the beginning
Yeast Nutrient (5 tsp for a 5 gallon batch)


Procedure
Steep Black Barley at about 170 F for 30 minutes
Remove after 30 and bring to a boil
Add bittering hops and boil for 50 minutes
Remove from heat and add sugars (DME, etc... and yeast nutrients)
Return to a boil for 15 minutes, (I add Irish Moss for the 15 minutes)
Cool to 65 degrees and put in primary fermenter, pitch yeast after oxygenating and completing water fill to 5 gallons

Primary fermentation - 1 to 2 weeks (I'll probably do 2)
Secondary fermentation - 4 weeks

As I write this I am waiting for the wort to cool down. Will report OG after. :)
 
So, the OG came in at 1.064 which is only .003 off the original recipe. FG is "supposed" to come in around 1.013 but it might be lower in the end as I think corn syrup is more fermentable than LME. Hopefully it doesn't affect the flavor too much. We'll see
 
That all looks reasonable - should be tasty. 5tsp of yeast nutrient is a huge amount for a 5gal batch though - normally you'd use about 1/2 tsp for a 5 gal batch.
 
So, I found this recipe online and because, well, I can't always find the exact ingredients called for at the closes place that has beer brewing supplies, I often end up tweaking the recipe as is the case here. They (in this case) didn't have the specific ale yeast called for or the specific hop, I had to change those 2 things and I also wanted to boost the alcohol level some so instead of 1 lb. of amber dme I am using 3 lbs of Briess Pilsen light and I changed one other thing as well - instead of one ounce of black barley for the steep I used 2 oz. I also realized (half an hour left in the boil) that I did not have nearly enough LME. I was "supposed" to have 6.6 lbs and I had 3.8 so I had to do something quick. As I stated, the place where I get my supplies is half an hour away so going there wasn't an option. I shot over to Dollar General which is 100 yards away and got some Light corn syrup (it's all I could get unfortunately) I added 3.6 lbs (2 pints). The original recipe called for 7.1 alcohol by volume. So who KNOWS how this Frankenale is going to turn out but here's the recipe.

3.6 lbs corn syrup (2 pints)
3.8 lbs CBW Pilsen Light LME
3.0 lbs Breiss Pilsen Light DME
2 oz. Crisp black roasted barley
1 oz Centennial (7.7 AA hop) added at beginning of first boil - 50 minutes
1 oz SAAZ (3.2 AA hop) added at end of boil prior to cooling
1 package Nottingham Ale Yeast (pre tossed in 4 oz. water at the beginning
Yeast Nutrient (5 tsp for a 5 gallon batch)


Procedure
Steep Black Barley at about 170 F for 30 minutes
Remove after 30 and bring to a boil
Add bittering hops and boil for 50 minutes
Remove from heat and add sugars (DME, etc... and yeast nutrients)
Return to a boil for 15 minutes, (I add Irish Moss for the 15 minutes)
Cool to 65 degrees and put in primary fermenter, pitch yeast after oxygenating and completing water fill to 5 gallons

Primary fermentation - 1 to 2 weeks (I'll probably do 2)
Secondary fermentation - 4 weeks

As I write this I am waiting for the wort to cool down. Will report OG after. :)

Skip the secondary, it won't do what you expect and it can lead to an infected beer.

A recipe is a record of what someone else did. It can be a great place to start but like you, I don't have quick access to a lot of various grains, hops, or yeast so I have to adapt much of the time. At the time you make a single change to a recipe it is no longer someone else's recipe, it is your own, a unique recipe.

The wort that you pitch the yeast into has all the necessary nutrients for the yeast, you only need the nutrients for fruit juices when making wine. The only thing that would make me nervous about whether to add nutrient to this batch is the corn syrup as it would not have the free amino nitrogen that malt extract would and since it is such a large part of your recipe the nutrient might be necessary.

Corn syrup is more fermentable than your malt extract, more like pure sugar. That will lead to a drier and probably thinner beer.
 
The dosage actually stated to use 1 - 1 /1/2. I used Fermax Yeast Nutrient. But, because you mentioned it I looked again and sure enough that was the dosage recommended - 1 to 1 1/2 tsp per gallon. Shrug

That all looks reasonable - should be tasty. 5tsp of yeast nutrient is a huge amount for a 5gal batch though - normally you'd use about 1/2 tsp for a 5 gal batch.
 
Skip the secondary, it won't do what you expect and it can lead to an infected beer.

A recipe is a record of what someone else did. It can be a great place to start but like you, I don't have quick access to a lot of various grains, hops, or yeast so I have to adapt much of the time. At the time you make a single change to a recipe it is no longer someone else's recipe, it is your own, a unique recipe.

The wort that you pitch the yeast into has all the necessary nutrients for the yeast, you only need the nutrients for fruit juices when making wine. The only thing that would make me nervous about whether to add nutrient to this batch is the corn syrup as it would not have the free amino nitrogen that malt extract would and since it is such a large part of your recipe the nutrient might be necessary.

Corn syrup is more fermentable than your malt extract, more like pure sugar. That will lead to a drier and probably thinner beer.

I am interested to see how it comes out.
As for the secondary. I've never had any issues going from the primary to the carboy and at times have skipped the secondary altogether but I think whether or not I do will depend on whether I'm in a position where I need or want to begin another batch. I have an IPA that I bottled 2 weeks ago and will need to set for a bit more. I have a stout that I put in the carboy on Saturday so I could brew this batch. If I don't see a need to move it so I can do another batch I'll probably just leave it where it is. I will be bottling the stout in 2 weeks though so I'll make the decision then
 
For that yeast nutrient you used the proper amount. Wyeast Beer Nutrient uses only 1/2 tsp for 5 gallons.

I would also say to skip the secondary. And that the beer should be ready to bottle at 2 weeks. There isn't any reason to age this recipe.
 
I am interested to see how it comes out.
As for the secondary. I've never had any issues going from the primary to the carboy and at times have skipped the secondary altogether but I think whether or not I do will depend on whether I'm in a position where I need or want to begin another batch. I have an IPA that I bottled 2 weeks ago and will need to set for a bit more. I have a stout that I put in the carboy on Saturday so I could brew this batch. If I don't see a need to move it so I can do another batch I'll probably just leave it where it is. I will be bottling the stout in 2 weeks though so I'll make the decision then

Most of the time people do not have problems with secondary but the possibility exists and cannot be ignored. A batch of beer has a particular value and it would be hard for me to dump a batch that got infected when a spare bucket fermenter is so cheap.
 
So, as an update, the yeast really seem to be enjoying this particular brew. The room temp is58 degrees (has ranged from 58 to 66 at various times of the day) and the fermenter is at 64 and that airlock is popping real good and has been for 2 full days. The temp in the fermenter did reach up to about 70 at one point but that's the highest I've seen it. I think this is going to run out real good, or at least I hope it will. And, ya, I might skip the 2ndary as I'm not really seeing a need to start a new brew too quickly
 
So, as an update, the yeast really seem to be enjoying this particular brew. The room temp is58 degrees (has ranged from 58 to 66 at various times of the day) and the fermenter is at 64 and that airlock is popping real good and has been for 2 full days. The temp in the fermenter did reach up to about 70 at one point but that's the highest I've seen it. I think this is going to run out real good, or at least I hope it will. And, ya, I might skip the 2ndary as I'm not really seeing a need to start a new brew too quickly

Have you had your eyes checked lately? I have 3 beers in fermenters and I see a need to start another beer today. Perhaps you need binoculars or a telescope?
 
I've got 1 that is drinkable, 1 in the secondary fermenter which I'll bottle next weekend (not this weekend) and one in primary.
I see your point but I don't think I'll drink it that fast and if I do - there is liquor store right up the road. lol

Have you had your eyes checked lately? I have 3 beers in fermenters and I see a need to start another beer today. Perhaps you need binoculars or a telescope?
 
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