My First Recipe - All-Cascade American IPA (Extract)

[kkotwas]

So, I now have two batches under my belt. A Blonde Ale (bottled) that turned out pretty good, and an Amber Ale (fermenting) that I have high hopes for.

For my next brew, I wanted to do something hoppy and with a higher ABV than my previous two brews. I love IPAs, so I figure I would give one a shot. Rather than buying a kit like I did for my first two beers, I wanted to build this recipe myself. I used cascade hops as an aroma hop for my Blonde Ale. I loved the smell, so I had the idea of doing an all cascade IPA.

Here is the recipe I came up with. Please tell me what you think, as I'm new to brewing and could use any advice I can get. The recipe is for a 5 gallon extract batch. Thanks and !

 

[kkotwas]

Just to clarify, I'm going to steep the grains pre-boil and I split the extract addition to raise the ABV and prevent caramelization.

 

[Ridire]

I'm no more experienced than you but this looks not a whole lot unlike the all Centenial IPA I put together (in the fermenter now). My only thought is about the word "steep". Based on the little I know, I think you will need some fermentables from your 2 row to get to your target OG, and I think that requires a partial mash (slight variation from steeping). I think you need to make sure you don't have too much water for your "steep", that you keep the temp down to around 150 degrees for nearly 60 minutes, in order to get the fermentables out of the 2 row.

Someone correct me if I'm mistaken.

 

[EyePeeA]

With 22% 2-row, this is a partial mash recipe, not extract. For an IPA, I would use more late hops, but lower the early hops by 10 IBUs for the given OG. The late extract addition could be 5 lbs. for more paleness and hop focus. Add this at flameout instead of 15 minutes. Use 2 lbs. extract at boil start since you're already mashing with 2-row. Some sugar also aids dryness, which is to style. And a touch of crystal malt wouldn't hurt here.

 

[ajf]

You cannot just steep pale malt. It must be mashed. (OK mashing is really a fancy word for steeping, but you do need to keep the temperature in range.)

Personally, I would reduce the 2 row by 1/2 lb, and add 1/2 lb crystal 20 to add a bit of color and flavor.

Good luck.

-a.

 

[Ridire]

You cannot just steep pale malt. It must be mashed. (OK mashing is really a fancy word for steeping, but you do need to keep the temperature in range.)

Personally, I would reduce the 2 row by 1/2 lb, and add 1/2 lb crystal 20 to add a bit of color and flavor.

Good luck.

-a.

This is exactly what I did (the crystal). It looks and smells awesome. Cannot wait to get bottled in a couple of weeks.

 

[kkotwas]

I may have used the wrong word. I plan on putting the milled grain in to a muslin bag, and let it sit in about 1 gallon to 1.5 gallons of sub 160F water for about 30 minutes. Should I do that for closer to 60 minutes? Thanks for the advice on the additional grain ajf. One of the things I was struggling with was figuring out what sort of grains would complement an IPA best.

And EyePeeA, if I change the DME addition schedule to add 5 lbs with 15 minutes left in the boil, will I have any issues with proper dissolving or clumping?

 

[EyePeeA]

With plain 2-row, you should have had enough conversion with a 40-45 minute mash, assuming the temperature was held in the 150s. If you mashed that with a lot of other malts, or primarily with malts like Munich that have lower diastatic power, then a longer mash would be better.

Just add the 5 lbs. at flameout. Turn off the heat and at that moment, stir in the DME, then cover your kettle, and rapidly cool down your wort. Everything will fully dissolve. You shouldn't have any sanitation issues by adding the DME at flameout. I've been doing this for my last 6 batches.

 

[kkotwas]

With plain 2-row, you should have had enough conversion with a 40-45 minute mash, assuming the temperature was held in the 150s. If you mashed that with a lot of other malts, or primarily with malts like Munich that have lower diastatic power, then a longer mash would be better.

Just add the 5 lbs. at flameout. Turn off the heat and at that moment, stir in the DME, then cover your kettle, and rapidly cool down your wort. Everything will fully dissolve. You shouldn't have any sanitation issues by adding the DME at flameout. I've been doing this for my last 6 batches.

Awesome, good advice. Thank you!

Also, when bringing down the hops for the beginning additions, should I be shooting for the same bitterness of 67.9 IBUs through adjusting the late additions? Or am I just concerned that the estimated OG stays the same?

 

[Ridire]

That was my question, too. I never got a great answer. Your gravity is lower at the onset, so won't you get higher IBU from your early additions?

 

[kkotwas]

Here's an updated recipe from the advice given so far...

 

[EyePeeA]

I preferred the larger amount of 2-row (25-30%). Mashing more of it at a lower temperature will give you more control over the final fermentability, as will substituting some of the extract for plain sugar. Maybe add a 2 oz. aroma steep / hopstand at 0 min?

 

[kkotwas]

I preferred the larger amount of 2-row (25-30%). Mashing more of it at a lower temperature will give you more control over the final fermentability, as will substituting some of the extract for olain sugar. Maybe add a 2 oz. aroma steep / hopstand at 0 min?

In place of the 2 oz dry hop, or on top of it?

Thanks again for being so helpful.

 

[EyePeeA]

On top of it.

No problem. As you can see from my name, I love IPAs.

And to address your question before about starting with a lower gravity at boil start, but still bittering with the full amount of hops at 60, I'm sure that method adds a few IBUs above what the calculator predicts. However, the late extract addition helps to balance it out in the end, as does IBU loss during fermentation and conditioning. Over in the Heady Topper thread, they mentioned how the beer may be 120+ IBUs if you plug everything in a recipe calculator, but what's left in the can upon drinking is only about 80 IBUs.

 

[DonMagee]

I personally like my IPA's with darker crystal malts in them (60 and 80L), however this seems like a solid recipe.

 

[kkotwas]

So I decided to up the hops a little bit, and to add an aroma steep as advised by EyePeeA. I've also changed the schedule of the hopping a little bit, based on the advice I've gotten. I'm definitely looking get get a prominent hop flavor and aroma. I'm still undecided on the steeping grain bill. But this is what I have so far. I plan on brewing in about a week and a half, so any additional advice is very much welcome.

 

[EyePeeA]

One note to mention is that the concentrated boil will affect your final IBUs in addition to topping off with 2.25 gallons of water. The beer would be better with a full wort boil. Also, you're boiling 3 gallons of wort in a 3 gallon kettle? Boilovers may occur and you will have little to no room for the extract, since it displaces some water.

 

[kkotwas]

One note to mention is that the concentrated boil will affect your final IBUs in addition to topping off with 2.25 gallons of water. The beer would be better with a full wort boil. Also, you're boiling 3 gallons of wort in a 3 gallon kettle? Boilovers may occur and you will have little to no room for the extract, since it displaces some water.

Actually, it's a 5 gallon kettle. I guess I didn't enter it correctly in to beer smith. I wish I had the capability to do a full wort boil, but I only have an electric stove top right now and that struggles to even get 3 gallons to a full boil. Plus, I do not have a large enough kettle to boil the full amount.