My Fermentation Chamber Build

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Yeah, I'm in the process of modifying it exactly like you did. It looks great and will hopefully turn out to be something i can keep out in my office rather that tucking away in a closet like my other fermentation chamber. I'm planning on using this one for at least the first week of any beer and then transferring to the other fermentation chamber, which is bigger, still temp controlled but only uses a fan and some buckets full of ice to bring down to temp, no heat. However, if I don't brew as much I'll just use this one full time on a brew. Also, love the idea of being able to lager as well! Great job again with the step by step instruction.

One question, where did you run your wires for your temp probes?

I ran the wire for the temperature probe through a small hole in the side of the collar. Can't really see it in the original pictures, but it comes through the side opposite where I installed the light switch. Ran the wires from the inside before wiring it into the stc-1000 so the hole is just big enough for the wires and not the probe.

I considered looking for a place run it through the back of the fridge to avoid visible wires, but I decided to play it safe and just go through the collar.

If the probe wire was long enough I would probably have run it through the same place as the electric for the heating and lights. They go through the collar as well, but down through the bottom corner so they run under the fridge out the back.

Good luck with the build. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out!
 
Very nice build! Clean sharp looking setup!! :mug:

I don't think I could put my chamber in the house you you did... ;)

Congrats!!

Thanks jbb3! I live in an apartment so I didn't have much options of where to put this.
My homebrew equipment is slowly taking over, but as long as I make it look nice, my girlfriend doesn't complain... at least she hasn't yet.
 
I ran the wire for the temperature probe through a small hole in the side of the collar. Can't really see it in the original pictures, but it comes through the side opposite where I installed the light switch. Ran the wires from the inside before wiring it into the stc-1000 so the hole is just big enough for the wires and not the probe.

I considered looking for a place run it through the back of the fridge to avoid visible wires, but I decided to play it safe and just go through the collar.

If the probe wire was long enough I would probably have run it through the same place as the electric for the heating and lights. They go through the collar as well, but down through the bottom corner so they run under the fridge out the back.

Good luck with the build. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out!

So I'm pretty much done but I'm having a tough time getting the door to fit exactly on the frame. Right now I'm having to tape it on the far edge because it won't stay shut otherwise. Have any suggestions? I noticed that you put magnets in yours around the edge. I'm assuming that you put a metal strip on the other side for it to catch on, right?
 
So I'm pretty much done but I'm having a tough time getting the door to fit exactly on the frame. Right now I'm having to tape it on the far edge because it won't stay shut otherwise. Have any suggestions? I noticed that you put magnets in yours around the edge. I'm assuming that you put a metal strip on the other side for it to catch on, right?

I had a similar issue when making mine... And yes, I did use the magnetic strips for sealing.

I ended up moving the door out a 1/4" because the "seal" on the door kept getting caught on the frame causing the door to open back up after closing. Feel free to PM me if you'd like to chat about it.
 
Where did you buy your magnetic strips from? The ones I bought from Lowes are not very strong. Did you use magnetic strips on both the door and the frame? Or metal on one or the other?
 
Where did you buy your magnetic strips from? The ones I bought from Lowes are not very strong. Did you use magnetic strips on both the door and the frame? Or metal on one or the other?

I used this cheap magnetic tape.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Magn...ft-Iron-Ferrite-Magnetic-Tape-07012/202535615

The rubber gasket of the door already has a magnet built in to seal to the original metal door frame. Instead of finding metal to line around the wood collar, the magnetic tape was a cheap solution.

The tape is not a very strong magnet, but if you make sure it is lined up with the magnetic edge of the door gasket, it will hold nicely.

Your issue may be the same as bberg mentioned. If the mounted side of the door is too tight it will want to push open. I had the same problem initially. I just adjusted the spacing until it had a good seal.
 
I got an STC-1000 to run a small ceramic heater inside of a True GDM10 cooler. There was a loose connection in the controller and it blew the fuse. Where do I find fuses this size? I looked all over town, which has very little selection.
Thanks,
John
 
I got an STC-1000 to run a small ceramic heater inside of a True GDM10 cooler. There was a loose connection in the controller and it blew the fuse. Where do I find fuses this size? I looked all over town, which has very little selection.
Thanks,
John

I don't recall the STC having a fuse in it?? Are you talking about a fuse in the GDM10? Or maybe the ceramic heater? If so, did you wire it directly to the STC? Usually, I see a relay on the STC wired to an outlet. Then the devise it's controlling is plugged into the outlet.
 
Awesome build! So far, I've gotten mine put together, but I'm hesitant to pull the trigger on the window. It definitely would be nice not to have to open the door every time I want to check my brew, but did you find that cutting that much insulation out of the front door hurt the fridge's ability to hold temperature? Also, how did you mount the window frame to the door? Thanks for the info...helped me out a bunch!
 
Awesome build! So far, I've gotten mine put together, but I'm hesitant to pull the trigger on the window. It definitely would be nice not to have to open the door every time I want to check my brew, but did you find that cutting that much insulation out of the front door hurt the fridge's ability to hold temperature? Also, how did you mount the window frame to the door? Thanks for the info...helped me out a bunch!

Thanks Brettrae!
I think the window holds up great. The two layers of glass with a pocket of air trapped between seems to keep it well insulated. The fridge is quiet so most of the time I don't notice the compressor kick on, but it seems to kick on less then my kegerator mini fridge.
I will say, during the hotter days in Texas the room it's in gets pretty hot which does impact the fridge. Haven't been able to push it under 40 fahrenheit during those times, but I'm ok with this.
It's still going strong after two years and the biggest issue I've had is that I don't have another!
 
Thank you for posting your build. Here is a picture of my fermentation chamber. I tried to following yours to the best of my ability. There were some modifications that I made based on my fridge, but it turned out great.
IMG_5917.JPG
 
I was given a Wine Enthusiast 28 bottle thermoelectric cooler which had quit cooling. This will hold a 6 gallon plus fermentation bucket with room for a blow off catcher. After some attempted replacement of all the capacitors on the power supply, it worked, for about 5 minutes. i went to plan B. I went to the local Good Will Computer Center and picked up a new still sealed in the box ATX PC 500 Watt power supply ($15.00). I bought a temperature thermostat from Amazon for under $8.00, sorted out the wiring and the thing works great.
 
I haven’t been able to modify the interior yet (it is only for hops and yeast at this time), but I had to replace the insulation on a door from a free bar/dorm fridge and the way I keep it from popping open (I overdid the insulation a bit) is by adding a little $1. hook clasp. It will hold below 32F now, but I try to keep it at 40-42F.

When I move to getting a carboy in there for lagers instead, I look forward to using this design for a build.

Thanks, Dave!
 
I'm currently working on a built-in ferm chamber under the workbench in my brewing room, and the thought of a window in the door never crossed my mind. Very clever!
 
Can somebody post here how they connected STC-1000 to monitor temp? How do you get the temperature up? Do you use some kind of heater there?
 
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