These pics are from when I was testing connectins and switches and whatnot only 120V feeding in (no heater element attached), so they don't show the fat 65A cable coming in with proper input to the power distribution, but they show most of the other wiring.
Inside the box:
Ignore the left side of the power distribution (it's jimmy rigged for 120V), but on the right side where wires come out....
hots go down to 25A breakers on bottom right corner of box, those feed to the contactor, and then one hot goes to the receptacle while the other goes to the SSR above before coming down to the receptacle. (you can see the reset buttons for the 25A breakers when you look at the back of the box):
Back inside the box.... Neutral from the power distribution goes to a few places; one is the 120V receptacle there for my wort pump, another is to the left to the hinged door of my box for my control devices, and then there is a connection to the contactor right there (hot for the contactor comes from a switch on the door).
There is a black hot that comes out of the distro block and goes toward the door (to the 15A breaker mounted there).
Here's the door... it's a bit of a rat's nest because I have a 6 pin selector switch right in the freaking middle that allows me to select whether the PID (on the right) or the pulse width modulator (on the left) is in control of the SSR.
The important part is that the main power feed from the distribution block attaches to the 15A breaker (center/bottom) before going up and connecting to everything else (PID, PWM, switches, etc).
Here's the front to help understand what the items are:
Starting at the top center and going clockwise:
- green switch that turns on pump receptacle in the box.
- orange indicator lamp that lets me know power is making it to element.
- knob and LED for pulse width modulator (for manual control of kettle)
- red switch that activates the contactor and lets the 240V through
- 15A breaker protecting all 120V items
- green switch that turns on PID (It's function will change when I upgrade the system later, but I wanted to get the freaking hole cut in the steel and be done, so I decided to use the switch for SOMETHING)
- PID (with no probe connected and reading 'EEEE')
- the other square switch in the center (above the 15A breaker) is the switch that selects PID or PWM as the controller of the SSR.