Multiple Questions

[Donutz]

First, I have been reading and watched a "movie" called Brewing a Better Beer. Both places say that when you start fermenting, you should be doing this around 66-68 degrees. This time of the year is perfect for that since it is nice and cool right now (I live in the south...so it usually isn't COLD). Do some people stop brewing during the summer months because you can't get it cold enough??? I know in the heart of the summer, my house usually stays around 74 - 76 degrees during the day and 73-75 during the night... so it isn't within the "best" range. I have heard about swamp coolers and wort coolers... but I'm not really wanting to dump big bucks into that stuff just now (nor do I have a lot of extra money since I'm donating so much to the government ). So, what to do about that?

Next, Last night around 8pm I put the lid on my first batch ever. I have the airlock on good and tight. It hasn't started bubbling yet and it is has been around 27.5 hours. I was reading that it can take a bit longer. Should I do anything or look at anything? I figured I would put the lid on and not touch anything for 4-5 days. By the way, it is an IPA I made from Munton's kit with extra malt extract and some hops.

Next question! What should I be looking for with the hydrometer. My first check was 1.05 and according to my directions, I am right where it should be. Anyhow, when I get my final check... what does it all mean and what should I really be looking for?

Lastly, with the kit, I have directions that says let it sit and don't touch for 4-5 days. Then add the dry hops and let it sit for another 4-5 days. I read where some people said to let certain brews to set longer. What is advisable for my beer?

 

[Brew-Jay]

You will probably get multiple responses, so take it all in!

First, I have been reading and watched a "movie" called Brewing a Better Beer. Both places say that when you start fermenting, you should be doing this around 66-68 degrees. This time of the year is perfect for that since it is nice and cool right now (I live in the south...so it usually isn't COLD). Do some people stop brewing during the summer months because you can't get it cold enough??? I know in the heart of the summer, my house usually stays around 74 - 76 degrees during the day and 73-75 during the night... so it isn't within the "best" range. I have heard about swamp coolers and wort coolers... but I'm not really wanting to dump big bucks into that stuff just now (nor do I have a lot of extra money since I'm donating so much to the government ). So, what to do about that?

If you are not willing/able to get a dedicated kegerator or other type of container where you can control temperature, then just find a nice area that keeps a relatively constant temperature (closet or pantry, say) and just leave it there. Sure you would love to have perfect temperature control, but don't sweat it as you are just starting out. My first brews fermented in the low 70's and they were still great. Many brewers on this forum have taken the leap to a dedicated cooler and a temperature controller that can keep the cooler at a set temp.

Next, Last night around 8pm I put the lid on my first batch ever. I have the airlock on good and tight. It hasn't started bubbling yet and it is has been around 27.5 hours. I was reading that it can take a bit longer. Should I do anything or look at anything? I figured I would put the lid on and not touch anything for 4-5 days. By the way, it is an IPA I made from Munton's kit with extra malt extract and some hops.

Hang out for a while and don't get too worried. If it goes two or three days without any activity, then you can give it a gentle swirl to get the yeast motivated. You should start to see a foamy layer on top soon. As they say "RDWHAHB."

Next question! What should I be looking for with the hydrometer. My first check was 1.05 and according to my directions, I am right where it should be. Anyhow, when I get my final check... what does it all mean and what should I really be looking for?

The directions in the kit may have mentioned the expected Final Gravity (FG), but what you really are looking for is a constant reading over two or three days. Wait till the krauesen disappears and then take a gravity reading (using good sanitation practices, of course). That reading will be something like 1.014 - I don't know because it depends on your specific brew, but that's probably a close approximation. If it doesn't change over two or three days, then fermentation is complete, and you can add your dry hops. Let that sit for another week or so and you can bottle it. Some folks like to leave it longer before adding dry hops, but you'll get a feel for timing as you get more into it.

Lastly, with the kit, I have directions that says let it sit and don't touch for 4-5 days. Then add the dry hops and let it sit for another 4-5 days. I read where some people said to let certain brews to set longer. What is advisable for my beer?

See my answer above. 4 - 5 days sounds a little premature, but every brew and every brewer is different. Play with timing and see what works best for you. I would say that 4 - 5 days is an absolute minimum.

 

[Chadwick]

1) Fermentation temp. depends on the style of beer and yeast you are using. A good temp. for most ales is between 60-68 degrees F. If you cannot control the temps in the summer months you could brew siason style ales. Siasons would be perfectly suited for the temps you of your home during summer months.

2) Fermentation can take a little while before you notice it taking off. I've seen delays of 36 hrs before the airlock started getting busy. This isn't something to be too concerned about. What is more important is that you have pitched viable yeast in appropriate amounts. If you used the yeast from the Munton's kit, it may be old and not very viable. It will still work, but you really would have benefited from using better yeast. Still, no worries. It should work as long as you didn't pitch it into wort hot enough to kill it. If the wort was way hot, go find a local home brew shop and buy a good dry yeast and pitch it in there. Don't use yeast for baking. It will ferment, but the flavors may not be very good.

3) Your hydrometer is a very important tool. You did good by taking a reading before fermentation started. After fermentation seems to complete (at least 2 weeks from now), you will use it to measure your gravity again. It will give you a reading less than 1.050 and this new reading needs to be recorded. Then you will read it again 2 days later. If the gravity reading did not change after 2 days, you are ready to bottle.

4) As for dry hopping. I prefer to wait until fermentation is completed before I add any dry hops. I find that doing this lends to a better effect than dry hopping while fermentation is still active. As for the directions to add the hops after 4-5 days, ignore that. Wait until fermentation is competed, then add the dry hops and give it at least 3 days extra once those dry hops are in there.

 

[WileECoyote]

First, I have been reading and watched a "movie" called Brewing a Better Beer. Both places say that when you start fermenting, you should be doing this around 66-68 degrees. This time of the year is perfect for that since it is nice and cool right now (I live in the south...so it usually isn't COLD). Do some people stop brewing during the summer months because you can't get it cold enough??? I know in the heart of the summer, my house usually stays around 74 - 76 degrees during the day and 73-75 during the night... so it isn't within the "best" range. I have heard about swamp coolers and wort coolers... but I'm not really wanting to dump big bucks into that stuff just now (nor do I have a lot of extra money since I'm donating so much to the government ). So, what to do about that?

Next, Last night around 8pm I put the lid on my first batch ever. I have the airlock on good and tight. It hasn't started bubbling yet and it is has been around 27.5 hours. I was reading that it can take a bit longer. Should I do anything or look at anything? I figured I would put the lid on and not touch anything for 4-5 days. By the way, it is an IPA I made from Munton's kit with extra malt extract and some hops.

Next question! What should I be looking for with the hydrometer. My first check was 1.05 and according to my directions, I am right where it should be. Anyhow, when I get my final check... what does it all mean and what should I really be looking for?

Lastly, with the kit, I have directions that says let it sit and don't touch for 4-5 days. Then add the dry hops and let it sit for another 4-5 days. I read where some people said to let certain brews to set longer. What is advisable for my beer?

Hello, a swamp cooler is a rope handle tub $6.00 at walmart, put wort in fermenter, put fermenter in tub, add cold water to tub, add frozen water bottles to water in tub to cool water, which in-turn will cool fermenter, its only $6.00 so no big bucks here.

Fermenting yeast temps vary, so check the yeast temp range.

I brew saison in the summer, I ferment it at 80+ deg, Belgian saison yeast 3724.

leave it along is a good idea.

I think you might have read or typed hydrometer reading wrong, maybe 1.050? is what you meant ?

Guessing your looking for around 1.012 to 1.008 for your FG.

Hydrometer readings are reading the sugars in your brew, using the OG and FG together will tell you how much alcohol is in your beer.

When you reach a stable gravity (final gravity) for 3 days in a row, then I would let it sit for 7 to 10 days longer and then Bottle it ( lots of people will have all different time frames on this as it is a personal preference thing)

After bottling it let is sit for 3 weeks at 70 degrees, then put 1 in the fridge for 3 days (this allows co2 to get into solution) then pot it open and try it, if its good put them all in the fridge, if its green tasting (not hoppy tasting) try 1 more in the fridge the next week, keep doing this till it taste good, then pop all of them in the fridge.

Cheers

 

[Donutz]

Thank you for all of the great posts/replies. My Hydrometer reading was 1.050 (Sorry, I put 1.05 in my OP...I didn't know or realize if the last zero was necessary!! But now I will know for future posts)!! Also, the yeast I used was not with the kit. The guy at my local brew shop told me to not use the yeast that came with the kit and gave us Safale US-05 to use.

 

[Brew-Jay]

Thank you for all of the great posts/replies. My Hydrometer reading was 1.050 (Sorry, I put 1.05 in my OP...I didn't know or realize if the last zero was necessary!! But now I will know for future posts)!! Also, the yeast I used was not with the kit. The guy at my local brew shop told me to not use the yeast that came with the kit and gave us Safale US-05 to use.

The zero isn't really necessary, but that's how everyone is used to seeing it. That gravity reading is pronounced, "ten fifty." Any equations that you do will use 50 gravity points. For instance, let's say your final gravity (FG) is 1.010 for the sake of easy math. Get the total delta in gravity points (50 - 10 = 40) and multiply that by the constant 131. The result is 5240, so your Alcohol By Volume (ABV) would be roughly 5.24%.

 

[boscobeans]

Airlock bubbling sometimes is not a good judge of fermentation activity.
If you have even a slight leak in the seal of the bucket lid or anywhere in the grommet fermentation gas will leak out without showing bubbles.

Check the seal by VERY, VERY, VERY gently pressing on the bucket lid ( not enough to push out any bubbles ) and look to see if the liquid (hopefully a StarSan solution) moves. If you push too hard, depending on the airlock, you may suck a little liquid if not all back into the fermenter, that's why I recommend using StarSan or some other liquid like vodka which won't affect the beer if it ends up in your brew.

OMO

bosco

 

[Donutz]

The zero isn't really necessary, but that's how everyone is used to seeing it. That gravity reading is pronounced, "ten fifty." Any equations that you do will use 50 gravity points. For instance, let's say your final gravity (FG) is 1.010 for the sake of easy math. Get the total delta in gravity points (50 - 10 = 40) and multiply that by the constant 131. The result is 5240, so your Alcohol By Volume (ABV) would be roughly 5.24%.

Thank you for that info! I understand a lot better. Now, I have a new concern!!! Since I started with SG= 1.050. I see most people post that I will probably end up with FG = 1.012 - 1.014. With those numbers, my ABV will only be 4.99 - 4.73%. That is fairly low for an IPA. I am now on day 3 of fermentation. Is there some way for me to boost this number this far along? Or would you just let it be and worry about it with my next batch?

 

[RM-MN]

Thank you for that info! I understand a lot better. Now, I have a new concern!!! Since I started with SG= 1.050. I see most people post that I will probably end up with FG = 1.012 - 1.014. With those numbers, my ABV will only be 4.99 - 4.73%. That is fairly low for an IPA. I am now on day 3 of fermentation. Is there some way for me to boost this number this far along? Or would you just let it be and worry about it with my next batch?

I find that a 5% alcohol homebrew has the same effect on me as a much higher alcohol commercial brew. Let this one finish as it will and try it. If you still need higher alcohol, use a recipe that is designed for the higher alcohol.

 

[Brew-Jay]

Leave it as it is. Theoretically, at this point you could boil some sugar in water and add that to boost ABV. But why bother. It would change the character of the beer. Next time go with a recipe with a higher OG.